Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[itsbenhere]

Those aren't crotch repairs they need are they? It seems like once you get some good darning done that shit is indestructible!

[Cold Summer]

Setterman, this is exactly why I've tracked my jean wears for several years now. It seems crazy but if you're wearing more than one pair/other pants, it really does help to keep track of how much you've been wearing your jeans.

[d-rew12]

I always track my jeans by months as opposed to days but I always account for days not worn and usually go with a lower estimate. I am also usually pretty spot on since I just like to keep track of that stuff (I have a little note book where I right down when they're washed and when I don't where them for long periods of time (Like getting hemmed, tapered, or repaired). My friends think I am crazy ) I say my samurai's are worn for roughly 13 months. Realistically they're worn between 12.5-13.5 months, and I just take the average.

[Niro]

i need to start doing that.i'll do it with future new buys.I will probably end up forgetting to do it lot of the time and then i will give it up, but still

[Iron Horse]

Easy fix: I don't pretend to know how many days I've worn jeans.

[ironheartfan123]

as already said, the person, fit, activity level and other things can make a huge difference in how long the jeans last; given that setterman looks like an active outdoors guy with a relatively slim fit, i'm rather impressed with how the lighter-weight WH denim has held up, and the fade evolution is amazing; i think if i wore the same model in my usual sized up 1 it would last me at least 3-4 years of daily (mostly office) wear !

 

(that said i always tell friends new to denim that they can expect around 2 years daily wear and may need repairs down the road)

Edited August 17, 2016 by ironheartfan123

[setterman]

as already said, the person, fit, activity level and other things can make a huge difference in how long the jeans last; given that setterman looks like an active outdoors guy with a relatively slim fit, i'm rather impressed with how the lighter-weight WH denim has held up, and the fade evolution is amazing; i think if i wore the same model in my usual sized up 1 it would last me at least 3-4 years of daily (mostly office) wear !

 

(that said i always tell friends new to denim that they can expect around 2 years daily wear and may need repairs down the road)

 

Looks can be deceiving when it comes to level of activity.    Taking the dog for a mile or two run every day is about the maximum of my level exertion in those jeans.  When I do yard work where I expect to get dirty, or I'm hunting, I have different pairs of jeans I wear.  My days are spent in an office, and then evenings like everyone else.... hanging around the house (5 nights a week ), or going out for some sort of entertainment or dining.  I do wear my jeans 14 hours a day though, so that probably makes up for a lack of an adventurous life.

 

Hats of to Kiya that he's been able to get 1100+ days of wear out of a pair of jeans (Stevenson's?).  My experience with where my LVC 55s and WH 1001s are at with well under 700 days of wear, and where my other jeans at even less, tells I'll never be able to reach that many days of wear without the front of the jeans from the top of the whiskers to the knee being so thinned out as to be useless.  I don't consider myself to be particularly hard on jeans.... and nothing worn tight, and jeans washed regularly and then hanged to dry.  

[itsbenhere]

Random question:

People who wash their jeans semi-regularly (~1 month, most of you I'm guessing!), did you always do that or did you used to wait longer? Particularly peeps in say 2010/2011.

It's kind of amazing now how many people wash almost like a normal person. I feel like in at least 2010/2011 (and probably before then), that just really wasn't a thing from what I remember and what I ended up doing.

My first jeans were iron heart, and I washed them the first time after about 6 months (hilarious how much my tastes have changed), and I remember thinking "this is kinda early to wash, but whatever". And I washed them in the bathtub! And I always never liked the way most jeans faded because they were too contrasty, which is why I got the IH. Flat Head jeans were the first ones I wrote off as never getting since it was always Thaj/Indonesian guys (and anyone else) posting these super obnoxiously faded jeans. And it just never occurred to me that there were so many jeans I'd like (or love and obsess over) that just had to be washed more than never.

Also, did you guys used to wash your jeans to get the shrink out? It seems like a lot of people do that now too, but I remember I always had jeans that would fit slim after a hot soak or something and I'd wear for a while, and then do wash them and they'd actually shrink and it'd turn to shit. Eventually I was so frustrated I said fuck it and washed them right away and it's been so much easier to size. Why was only soaking them the mantra when that's not how you shrink jeans ?

If what I remember is correct, it's crazy how much things have changed!

[Mr-Bielby]

I do also keep a note of my jean wear. My longest worn pair are my resolute and they are only at 246 days, with one crotch repair. My next is studio D'Artisan 003 at 207 and I doubt very much that they'd get to 230.

[chicote]

Random question:

I've thought about this exact thing for quite a while. How is it that this sort of washless denim dogma got started? I honestly feel that it's been to the detriment of this scene, overall. Though you could argue that part of the novelty of raw denim for some folks is the whole not-washing thing (especially, it seems, concerning Nudie, APC, most of the high-fashion, forward-looking brands), I've noticed that not washing your jeans is what comes to mind when raw denim is mentioned to the average person, and generally in a negative or quizzical manner. People aren't wrong to react that way—it is pretty gross to not wash pants for 6 months—but most folks are probably hesitant to learn any more about this scene with that as their starting point.

[mlwdp]

I don't know if anyone was planning on buying the NonnativexWrangler collab from Coverchord. Everything is 13oz.

I can't really tell if Nonnative really did anything to the shirt like they did to the pants and jacket. The shirt is made in China.

Jeans made in Japan

http://coverchord.com/eshop/items/VNN-P2951050/image5_l.jpg%5B/

Jacket made in China

Anyway, I just bought a shirt from Coverchord and it got here in 2 days. Bought on Monday, received today. Damn that's quick as hell. I have never received an item from Japan that quickly before, with or without EMS.

I'm not experienced in Wrangler so if anyone can tell the difference in what Nonnative did, feel free to reply.

Edited August 17, 2016 by mlwdp

[Cold Summer]

Hmm, my first few pairs of raw jeans were from Nudie, and those pairs were first washed around the six-month mark. None of them were particularly gross, or smelled at the time.

 

Since that time, most of my jeans have been washed after 2-4 months of wear, and about once ever 2-3 months after that. I never have any problems with smell or other grime. I like the high contrast look and I actually would prefer to wait longer to get more pronounced fades, but I tend to get impatient and end up washing my jeans just to mix things up. A pair like Sidney Lo's 3001s is my ideal level of contrast, and those were washed pretty often past the six-month mark.

 

For what it's worth, my Flat Head 1001 and 3Sixteen ST-120 were both washed once every 2-3 months. In my 1001s, I rode my bicycle 30 minutes minimum every single day, spent a good amount of time working in a warehouse, and also walked a lot. In my 3Sixteens, I've worked in an office and sat on my butt, and generally have been far less active than in the 1001s. The level of fading and contrast is nearly identical between these two pairs at the 9-10 month wear mark. So I'm not really convinced that activity actually plays a huge role in the fading process.

 

When talking to people unfamiliar with raw denim, I always explain that going longer without washing results in more dramatic fades, but ultimately you should do whatever you feel most comfortable with.

[mlwdp]

Hmm, my first few pairs of raw jeans were from Nudie, and those pairs were first washed around the six-month mark. None of them were particularly gross, or smelled at the time.

Since that time, most of my jeans have been washed after 2-4 months of wear, and about once ever 2-3 months after that. I never have any problems with smell or other grime. I like the high contrast look and I actually would prefer to wait longer to get more pronounced fades, but I tend to get impatient and end up washing my jeans just to mix things up. A pair like Sidney Lo's 3001s is my ideal level of contrast, and those were washed pretty often past the six-month mark.

For what it's worth, my Flat Head 1001 and 3Sixteen ST-120 were both washed once every 2-3 months. In my 1001s, I rode my bicycle 30 minutes minimum every single day, spent a good amount of time working in a warehouse, and also walked a lot. In my 3Sixteens, I've worked in an office and sat on my butt, and generally have been far less active than in the 1001s. The level of fading and contrast is nearly identical between these two pairs at the 9-10 month wear mark. So I'm not really convinced that activity actually plays a huge role in the fading process.

When talking to people unfamiliar with raw denim, I always explain that going longer without washing results in more dramatic fades, but ultimately you should do whatever you feel most comfortable with.

I see you live in the south like I do (NC here) so it gets even harder to explain to people about why you're wearing denim in 90-100 degree weather like you're nuts lol, without washing. Edited August 17, 2016 by mlwdp

[jstavrin]

Random question:

People who wash their jeans semi-regularly (~1 month, most of you I'm guessing!), did you always do that or did you used to wait longer? Particularly peeps in say 2010/2011.

It's kind of amazing now how many people wash almost like a normal person. I feel like in at least 2010/2011 (and probably before then), that just really wasn't a thing from what I remember and what I ended up doing.

My first jeans were iron heart, and I washed them the first time after about 6 months (hilarious how much my tastes have changed), and I remember thinking "this is kinda early to wash, but whatever". And I washed them in the bathtub! And I always never liked the way most jeans faded because they were too contrasty, which is why I got the IH. Flat Head jeans were the first ones I wrote off as never getting since it was always Thaj/Indonesian guys (and anyone else) posting these super obnoxiously faded jeans. And it just never occurred to me that there were so many jeans I'd like (or love and obsess over) that just had to be washed more than never.

Also, did you guys used to wash your jeans to get the shrink out? It seems like a lot of people do that now too, but I remember I always had jeans that would fit slim after a hot soak or something and I'd wear for a while, and then do wash them and they'd actually shrink and it'd turn to shit. Eventually I was so frustrated I said fuck it and washed them right away and it's been so much easier to size. Why was only soaking them the mantra when that's not how you shrink jeans ?

If what I remember is correct, it's crazy how much things have changed!

 

I've worn jeans with the intention of wearing them ~6 months before the first wash, but I could never make it more than 3 without the griminess driving me insane. And living with tmadd, who's been an advocate of frequent washing since at least '09, I've never been terribly afraid of washing my jeans "early." 

 

In regard to pre-washing/soaking, I once had a pair of LVC 1947s that I had only ever hand washed. Then, after wearing them for ~6 months, I threw them in the machine and they became annoyingly tight. Now I almost always machine wash jeans before wearing them, even one-wash pairs. 

 

I think people advocated/still advocate the soak for a few reasons. First, it does take care of a decent amount of shrinkage up front--and if you're only ever soaking them in the bathtub after wearing them for an extended period of time, you never really *have* to get all the shrink out. People were/are also very paranoid about losing starchiness/indigo (thereby compromising high contrast potential) so a soak was seen as the least abrasive way to dial in the fit. 

[Ignaurus]

I've always wanted to wash the hell out of some PBJ XX-003.

 

I personally have always been a frequent washer though. The first pair that I dropped some decent coin on (WH 1001 15th) are almost too washed out. It bummed me out for a while but now I just have them on the full blown "Dad jean" path and I dig it. 

Edited August 17, 2016 by Ignaurus

[Geeman]

Easy fix: I don't pretend to know how many days I've worn jeans.

This^

I don't keep track anymore

[ColonelAngus]

Random question:

People who wash their jeans semi-regularly (~1 month, most of you I'm guessing!), did you always do that or did you used to wait longer? Particularly peeps in say 2010/2011.

It's kind of amazing now how many people wash almost like a normal person. I feel like in at least 2010/2011 (and probably before then), that just really wasn't a thing from what I remember and what I ended up doing.

My first jeans were iron heart, and I washed them the first time after about 6 months (hilarious how much my tastes have changed), and I remember thinking "this is kinda early to wash, but whatever". And I washed them in the bathtub! And I always never liked the way most jeans faded because they were too contrasty, which is why I got the IH. Flat Head jeans were the first ones I wrote off as never getting since it was always Thaj/Indonesian guys (and anyone else) posting these super obnoxiously faded jeans. And it just never occurred to me that there were so many jeans I'd like (or love and obsess over) that just had to be washed more than never.

Also, did you guys used to wash your jeans to get the shrink out? It seems like a lot of people do that now too, but I remember I always had jeans that would fit slim after a hot soak or something and I'd wear for a while, and then do wash them and they'd actually shrink and it'd turn to shit. Eventually I was so frustrated I said fuck it and washed them right away and it's been so much easier to size. Why was only soaking them the mantra when that's not how you shrink jeans ?

If what I remember is correct, it's crazy how much things have changed!

 

for new jeans I always do a tub soak to get the starch out and some of the shrink out. I don't really care about combs/whiskers are whatever other silly name is attached to denim fades -- your jeans are going to fade whether you like it or not. I do the soak because starch is largely responsible for blow outs, in addition to all the grime/filth/dirt that accumulates in your cuffs. plus, if my jeans are noticeably filthy I'm not going to continue wearing them and look like a filthy bum. I guess I have an aversion to dirt.

[dudewuttheheck]

I definitely follow more of a 2010 type approach to my jeans. 

 

I have NEVER washed my jeans in a machine and never plan to. With unsanforized jeans, I hot soak for a total of a couple hours before wearing and when I do wash, I only tub wash with woolite dark. I usually take at least 8-10 months to wash my jeans, but not because I want super high contrast fades. 

 

My job does not allow me to wear jeans except on Friday and I spend a lot of time in shorts and a t shirt on my computer at home after work. In addition to this I have quite a few pairs of denim, chinos, etc that I wear as well so my main pair only gets about 10-12 hours of wear a week.

 

In addition, I do not like to wash my denim much because I like my jeans to stay dark for as long as possible, not necessarily because I want crazy fades. 

 

For example, my main pair has been my RJB 103bsp for the past 9 months and I have not washed them yet, but honestly they probably only have 2-3 months effective wear so far. 

[jigsaw]

This^

I don't keep track anymore

 

Yea same here ,i dont keep track anymore either.

[mikecch]

I definitely follow more of a 2010 type approach to my jeans. 

 

I have NEVER washed my jeans in a machine and never plan to. With unsanforized jeans, I hot soak for a total of a couple hours before wearing and when I do wash, I only tub wash with woolite dark. I usually take at least 8-10 months to wash my jeans, but not because I want super high contrast fades. 

 

That's more the 2005 approach

[dudewuttheheck]

That's more the 2005 approach

Lol, probably accurate, but I wasn't into raw at that point

[setterman]

This^

I don't keep track anymore

 

I normally don't either, but in the case of my 1001s being involved in a multi year contest I decided to keep an accurate record rather than guessing.  It's revealed that my jeans, even a slower wearing pair like my 1001s, are wearing faster than realized when I look at the actual number of days worn.  I'm still a month short of a year of actual wear.  If they were someone else's that I'd come across on Instagram, I'd have assumed they'd been worn longer than that.  

[Cucoo]

My job does not allow me to wear jeans except on Friday and I spend a lot of time in shorts and a t shirt on my computer at home after work. In addition to this I have quite a few pairs of denim, chinos, etc that I wear as well so my main pair only gets about 10-12 hours of wear a week.

 

For example, my main pair has been my RJB 103bsp for the past 9 months and I have not washed them yet, but honestly they probably only have 2-3 months effective wear so far. 

 

Well, that's why saying "wash after x months" really means "wash after x months OF WEAR", not x months of having owned them

[dudewuttheheck]

Well, that's why saying "wash after x months" really means "wash after x months OF WEAR", not x months of having owned them

Exactly. I wonder if my jeans getting so much time off of my body helps them from not smelling as bad too.

[SuperJackle]

Anyone have any theories about letting denim "rest" between wears? As in, and I'm not sure how much truth there is to this, people claim rotating pairs of shoes gives them longer life because the shoe gets a chance to dry out from moisture and bacteria.

[mikecch]

Random question:

People who wash their jeans semi-regularly (~1 month, most of you I'm guessing!), did you always do that or did you used to wait longer? Particularly peeps in say 2010/2011.

It's kind of amazing now how many people wash almost like a normal person. I feel like in at least 2010/2011 (and probably before then), that just really wasn't a thing from what I remember and what I ended up doing.

My first jeans were iron heart, and I washed them the first time after about 6 months (hilarious how much my tastes have changed), and I remember thinking "this is kinda early to wash, but whatever". And I washed them in the bathtub! And I always never liked the way most jeans faded because they were too contrasty, which is why I got the IH. Flat Head jeans were the first ones I wrote off as never getting since it was always Thaj/Indonesian guys (and anyone else) posting these super obnoxiously faded jeans. And it just never occurred to me that there were so many jeans I'd like (or love and obsess over) that just had to be washed more than never.

Also, did you guys used to wash your jeans to get the shrink out? It seems like a lot of people do that now too, but I remember I always had jeans that would fit slim after a hot soak or something and I'd wear for a while, and then do wash them and they'd actually shrink and it'd turn to shit. Eventually I was so frustrated I said fuck it and washed them right away and it's been so much easier to size. Why was only soaking them the mantra when that's not how you shrink jeans ?

If what I remember is correct, it's crazy how much things have changed!

 

Sorry for short story...

 

2005

- Still a kid living at home, first time hearing of selvedge denim, parents bought me Edwin SENs

- Never washed my jeans, like NEVER EVER, because Internet said so.

- Wanted Nudies but not enough $

- Mum would wash my jeans on the sly every few months...had to hide them from her.

- Started browsing mynudies and SuFu forums.

 

2007

- Uni student with credit card & PayPal, loved Sugar Cane, particularly the Okinawa - I had all three versions.

- Wanted Samurai but not enough $

- Would 15 minute hot soak my jeans before first wear

- Applied leather conditioner when leather patch was wet (because Samurai guy said so)

- Wore my jeans all the time! Even when sleeping. Girlfriend thought I was weird.

- Machine washed jeans every 3 months - they got pretty gross even after just 2 or 3 weeks.

 

2010

- Started wearing lots of different brands, wanted to try everything

- Would 30 minute hot soak my jeans before first wear

- Started hand-washing my jeans monthly, using Sugar Cane's enzyme detergent & conditioner.

- Was heavily researching leathers and tannages, realized that the leather must be dry before feeding:

Samurai guy was wrong, wet leather doesn't take up feed better...leather must be dry and warm!

- Stopped wearing jeans to sleep

 

2016

- Too many jeans and not enough time as working full time

- Time is worth more than denim, not the other way around now

- Nowadays I know what I like, and I can enjoy Japan Blue just as much as Real Japan Blues

- I've become more particular about materials and construct, but much more relaxed about washing

- Hand wash or machine wash (short cycle) jeans before first wear, depending on raw fit

- Machine wash jeans with a bit of laundry powder every 3 to 4 weeks of effective wear.

- To be honest, I don't really aim for any particular type of fading...however the jeans will fade, I will accept and appreciate - it's all beautiful.

Edited August 19, 2016 by mikecch

[itsbenhere]

Considering leather has more a likelihood to deteriorate if not taken care of properly than denim does, I'd guess that it would more important for shoes than jeans. Also, you can't wash your shoes to get rid of grime so it keeps building up, and your feet produce a lot of sweat, so perfect for bacteria and all that gross stuff...

Are you trying to get higher contrast fades so you don't want to wash too much, or just curious about the theory?

Not directed at you, but I can't believe some denim fans talk about how one of the benefits of raw denim is that it can fade naturally instead of predistressed, and then recommend you not wash your jeans and only think super super contrasty (gross artificial looking) fades look good.

[mikecch]

Anyone have any theories about letting denim "rest" between wears? As in, and I'm not sure how much truth there is to this, people claim rotating pairs of shoes gives them longer life because the shoe gets a chance to dry out from moisture and bacteria.

 

I subscribe to this. If anything, they feel 'fresher' on the legs if rest for a day.

I usually have ~ 3 pairs in active rotation at any one time.

[Aries]

It's funny how so many narratives begin with a kind of psychological neuroticism and, over time, move towards an awareness, acceptance and therefore overcoming of the neurosis.

 

Denim is therapy guys; probably more expensive than going to a psychologist too.

[oomslokop]

^so true. denim actually taught me to accept decay — life-affirming stuff when you're surrounded with so much of it in a "third world" hell-hole like jakarta (which i stockholm-syndromely love).