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Iron Horse

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Everything posted by Iron Horse

  1. Iron Horse

    The wabash / Stifel thread

    As mentioned in another thread, we don’t have a wabash/Stifel mega thread here. First things first, the history: “J.L. Stifel & Sons was an American textile and jeans manufacturing brand which became prominent from 1835 to 1956 and a precursor one in indigo-dyed cotton calicos. Smoother than canvas or denim but very resistant, calico made success in workwear clothing. Typical calicos such as polka dots, flowers and dotted lines on bandanas and ticking were the most popular motifs.[1] In 1833, Johan Ludwig Stifel, a young and poor German immigrant came to the United States after having been an apprentice dyer and calico printer in his homeland. Walking barefoot to preserve his shoes, he reached the burgeoning city of Wheeling in West Virginia and began to work for a local farm. However his interest in textile dying returned and in 1835, he spent all his savings on a single bolt of unbleached cotton from the local mill, hand-dyed and sold it, then repeated the process another time. A new business was about to blossom. Wheeling, as a growing industrial city, notably in the steel and cigar sectors required a large workforce and consequently cheap and reliable garments. Johan Ludwig Stifel decided to convert this demand in a business opportunity giving birth to a prosperous enterprise. Meanwhile, having been married to Barbara Becht, in 1859, his sons Louis and William joined the company which turned into J. L. Stifel & Sons. In the beginning of the twentieth century the third generation of Stifels was operating a 70,000 square foot manufacturing plant employing 50 workers. The brand logo, a boot (meaning"stiefel" in German) with the word “stifel” inside, was definitely adopted. J.L. Stifel & Sons was associated with quality and their products were exported to Latin America, the Philippines, India, Canada and Africa reaching its peak with a monthly production of 3.5 million yards of clothes.[2]” https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/J.L.Stifel_and_Sons
  2. Iron Horse

    The wabash / Stifel thread

    Yep, it’s by me, thanks guys!
  3. Iron Horse

    The Leather Jacket Thread

    A place to discuss leather jackets, finally. I've got a few on my radar, including Rainbow Country's single rider (Sears Hercules repro) in veg tan horsehide: Or High Large Leathers' Guthrie model (Lee Cowboy repro) in horsehide: Or this Sugarcane adjustable collar horsehide half-belt:
  4. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    A lot of newer brands in recent years, especially the Tokyo “cool guy” brands, come from the streetwear scene and their approach to denim/heritage is definitely influenced by that, i.e. no online presence, secret shops that you have to find, staff that deem whether you’re worthy enough to shop there, etc. And yet people still fall for it.
  5. Iron Horse

    Shoes that look better with age...

    My Lofgren lineup these days:
  6. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    The CSF dumpster fire stinks more by the minute! So glad I never got into them.
  7. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    @dudewuttheheck, have you looked into either FW or Sugar Cane jeans? I think you’ll find their 47 models might suit you more, IMO.
  8. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    Don’t want to sound like Ed but they look a bit small in the seat IMO. That’s how my TCBs fit and I never did get over the wedgie fit.
  9. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    Yeah I talked to denim seeker and he says he deleted the book and doesn’t seem keen on sharing it for the time being. That said I think legally he’ll be more than OK, I don’t see him being successfully sued for this. He posted this FWIW:
  10. Iron Horse

    Conners Sewing Factory

    I saw that on Instagram but it’s unclear why Konaka claimed that; something about using photos from eBay listings that CSF went on to win? Edit: It’s been clarified and it was along the same lines, just not eBay but a different auction house. Either way, not a legally sound move at all by CSF, AFAIK owning an item or photo doesn’t actually transfer copyright ownership.
  11. Iron Horse

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    VEB inadvertently created quite the monster didn’t he. I didn’t mind when he did these types of shots back in 2014 or so, but it seems like so many aped his style.
  12. Iron Horse

    The Rite Stuff

    Yeah agreed; a bunch of Japanese stores do it so I’m used to it, to the point of it being a no-brainer.
  13. Iron Horse

    The Rite Stuff

    Thanks! I wear the natural CXL derbies when it's hot out, also have a pair in black on the way.
  14. Iron Horse

    The Rite Stuff

    Hey guys, I’ve opened up pre-orders on my new Bantam short-sleeve work shirt in 5 oz. Japanese selvedge cotton-linen chambray in both indigo and ecru version: https://the-rite-stuff.com/ The ecru version is arriving a bit later because the mill will have to specially make more of this fabric for me, perhaps those down under won’t mind though! Although the Bantam is 1930s in styling, short-sleeve work shirts were not generally sold before the post-WWII, unless marketed as sport shirts with sport collars, so if guys wanted a short sleeve they would cut down a long sleeve: A slightly lower back yoke this time, based on a 1920s catalog I have: The acorn pockets are often thought of as a later Lee invention but I’ve found examples from 1920s catalogs of this pocket shape. That said, Lee did popularize them with the Chetopa shirt: 1937: Star-pattern urea buttons, made in Japan, are based on 1920s originals: Original button on a 1940s Tuf Nut shirt I have:
  15. Iron Horse

    Shoes that look better with age...

    This is sound advice IMO.
  16. Iron Horse

    iconic denim photos

    Fantastic illustration by Moebius though.
  17. Iron Horse

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Asia is making moves toward cashless as well, we have Apple Pay, Line Pay, paying with your commuter card, and others, but it will be a long while yet before it happens seeing how many small businesses are still cash only. I think places like the US will also hit a stumbling block with the strip club issue. How are guys going to tip their favorite dancers? Or make it rain? I suppose they could swipe their NFC wrist implant at a machine and get stripper Monopoly bucks that are only good in the club, but it’s a pressing matter.
  18. https://www.etsy.com/listing/962173259/victorian-buttons-metal-painted?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=vintage+lot+metal+buttons&ref=sr_gallery-2-35&organic_search_click=1
  19. Iron Horse

    iconic denim photos

    Livestock auction, San Angelo, Texas, 1939
  20. When I was a kid and we'd go to the shoe store or department store to buy shoes for me, the salesmen there, aside from always using a Brannock device with those thin disposable black socks, would also press down on the end of the shoe to make sure there was about an inch of space between the end of the big toe and the front of the shoe. Some people call this the rule of thumb; that is, there should be as much empty room as the width of your thumb. Some people prefer a half inch of space there, but it seems to me in recent years that there's this trend in the heritage/amekaji/etc. community for people to size down too much on their shoes and boots as much as possible to avoid any semblance of heel slip, roominess, etc.
  21. Not an expert on the '60s, but in recent years I've read up on the differences in how laundry was done pre-1950s after noticing the difference that very hot, even boiling, water makes on washing jeans and how vintage jeans showed the same characteristics. Plus, there were the different soaps, and stuff like fels-naptha being used, not to mention stuff like water softening or lead pipes and potential effects. Anyway, it seems laundry soap formulas kept changing: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laundry_detergent Maybe you need soap with linear alkylbenzenesulfonates? Also perhaps a wringer washer, and sun drying. This is next-level ASMR:
  22. Iron Horse

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Back when I was at Heddels we ran a piece on this: https://www.heddels.com/2017/04/of-price-and-yen-the-effects-of-japanese-retailers-selling-abroad/ tl;dr Japanese brands with overseas retailers have, in some cases, long-lasting relationships with them, but if everyone that was scared off by Rakuten flocked to Denimio and OD instead, said retailers would no longer sell enough to justify carrying those brands and the business relationships would wither. At least that's what I gather. Interestingly, I'm not sure I've ever seen Denimio give an interview on the subject; has anyone else?
  23. Iron Horse

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Someone missed the second part of the "Write drunk, edit sober" edict!
  24. Iron Horse

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    I love the "no poseurs allowed" disclaimer with the unintentional typo pun: - This is for real vintage denim enthusiasts. If you don't know about antique/vintage 501, please don't order. You will waist your money.
  25. Iron Horse

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Freewheelers Vanishing West 601XX 1943 worn for almost three years:
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

    silver-nose-plaster.jpgshow?id=gf39VV*YhHg&bids=818443.18799516