Double 0 Soul

Its the top of a shoe rack which i knocked up out of plywood when we moved in ..quickly realised it wasn't going to be big enough so i made a bigger'un and converted it into a bookshelf for my kids room

One from my kids room I mounted it behind glass hanging from an old 1950's era bulldog clip

Its a Petromax (made in Germany) i bought it from Woodland Ways in Bakewell. Dotted around the Peaks are old van wheels which have been spotwelded to makeshift metal tables, they make perfect braziers for cooking your food while camping, i just take a sack of wood from work and a grill, dig out a 'van-wheel brazier' from one of the farms and i'm good to go.. ...when the sun goes down they keep your feet warm ...so i bought a similar style cast iron grill which i can take car camping or use in the garden, tbh it's not as good at bbq-ing as my neighbours Weber but it is very portable, the Weber just excels because you can close the lid and keep the heat in but you can't chuck it in the back of the car. I use those melting domes (seen on previous page) to give me a similar 'oven' effect to the Weber..

Kids V parents mass neighbourhood snowball fight on the bowling green for us Most fun ive had in years

This one's halfway up our stairs.. Bite's Tru-3D from 2003, he's promised to colour it...one day

Oi that's trademarked ® under USPTO, you'll be hearing from my lawyers!

I'm not being too dogmatic about it rooms, There was a conversation on here (maybe the other place) sometime around 2012 after i bought my FW's 47's where the general consensus was...the yellow is proofing? After said Freewheelers conversation i started saving photo's of the yellowing but being a 'lazy bones' i never tagged them/lost interest...the one i posted on the previous page being the most extreme example, you can see where it has transferred to the denim, i suppose oxidisation or proofing could be capable of this. This fly button def looks like a coating/treatment (i assume wax) rather than a forced/faux oxidisation (maynard's right, we've see it on other repro's/vintage ect) because the coating has washed off leaving a shiny button underneath, if it was oxidised it would have eaten into/affected the surface of the metal. ...and you would expect some kind of proofing if the buttons are prone to rust and they're been sold in areas of high humidity, you wouldn't want to buy a pair of jeans which had been folded up on the shelf for a few years to find the fly had rusted, now if they were proofing the fly you would expect them to proof the top button too. If the yellow is oxidation? ive been working with metals for years and ive never seen bright yellow oxidation but having said that it all depends on exact metal spec, environment ect which would be impossible to recreate and to give that pov some weight you don't see the yellowing on every pair of vintage Levi's so it could be unique to certain conditions..and maybe the top button looks more yellow than the fly because it's more exposed to the atmosphere rather than encased between the folded denim... clear as mud, i know but best i can do at 7am

I haven't looked in detail at the MiUSA buttons (you'll have to post a few pics) but that 'faux patina' is actually rust proofing, you see it on vintage Levi's, like this pair.. I personally thought Sugarcane's rendition was pretty damn accurate! at least my pair is ...and the wax proofing/rust on the fly is also a vintage detail I thought it was a much more accurate representation than Freewheelers 47's ..although they look much more convincing with wear

Cleaning my cast iron grill is a pain in the flippin arse, this thing. ...it's way too big to fit in the kitchen sink.. The first year that i owned it, i put it away in the shed for the winter without cleaning it after a summer of heavy use (the last thing i cooked on it was mackerel) in the spring it was grim af, it was rusting with a layer of congealed fat combined with putrid food particles in the bottom, i'll not make that mistake again thought I. I cleaned it in the garden with a bucket of boiling water and a stiff brush, it took an age so the next time i bought one of those stainless chainmail whatchamacallits.. took the pot plants out of the large butler sink in the garden and filled it with mad hot water but within a few mins the chainmail was gunked up with grease and completely useless so i had a brainwave.."i know i'll fill it with silver birch logs, set fire to it and burn it clean it was glowing red but when it cooled, i'd removed all the precious seasoning and the lovely protective blackness had turned gray like an untreated iron casting..fuck! i had to dismantle the damn thing and reaseason it, one piece at a time in the oven? I'm open to suggestions as to what the flip i should do at the end of this summer??

No not cruel at all! What would be 'cruel' is buying him a pair of STF in size 29 tell him it stands for 'Stretch to Fit' and watch him struggle for a few days while you do your best to look heart broken.. Some time later........... "Oh! what a pity" "I'll have to chuck them in the wash before i send them back" "Oh no! ive put them on a 'hot wash' by 'mistake' and they've shrunk" "Y'know? these might just fit me" He's relieved, you get a new pair of jeans...everyones happy! ..don't feel bad we've all done it

In which case i'll retract that advice on making block planes, i was teaching your grandmother to suck eggs..

I was reading a few weeks ago that Stik had given at his own cost 1000's of prints to Hackney council which he intended to be given as a gift by him accompneying a letter from the council to all Hackney residents but they "misteriously" turned up on ebay... police are investigating It looks like a great place to work @H...crimper it's hard making a living in woodwork isn't it? i expect even more so in London, what did you used to make and why did you bag it off? ...or a living which can keep us in the swanky jawnz to which we've become accustomed should i say.

^ Lovely!

Thanks @ColonelAngus i bought it around 10yrs ago, Filson have changed the labels since then but afaik, it's still the same blanket. Those chisels^^ are lovely Crimp's but that little block plane you might as well make your own! especially when you have the nice chisels to work with, all of these block planes are home made.. they only take a couple of hours, folks used to have me making them as a 16yr old apprentice like some kind of tortuous initiation ceramony only bit of advice.. when you carve out the escapement... ...fill the^ recess up with linseed oil and leave it for a week topping it up each day, eventually the end-grain will soak it up into the entire block, protecting it ...only then do you carve out the mouth for the blade from the underside. Most of those^ planes have a radius on the face, some have a 45° V for chamforing. Ive got 100's of rules Martin and yes Rabone Chesterman are by far my favourite! ..mine differ slightly inasmuch as they're rare as fuck, etched old school contraction rules, for example, steel contracts somewhere between 1/38 and 1/48 depending on carbon/stainless ect so if i'm making something which will be cast in stainless steel i make it oversized using a 1/48 'contraction rule' so when the hot (expaned) metal cools it will contract back down to the correct size in standard rule. Iron contracts between 1/96 for grey iron and 1/120 for spheroidal graphite so for every 120mm it will contract by 1mm. Aluminium 1/70, Brass 1/80 ect ect... i have a rule for most contractions but some exotic metals/alloys have a mind of their own and i need to work out the contraction factor as a decimal and make the pattern accordingly. If i'm working in ceramics they tend to expand when baked rather than contract so the expansion needs to be accounted for so they're made undersized. Expansion rules are grail status Most pattern makers rules are pretty hard to come by, especially the pre-1940's Chersterman rules which are engraved allowing me to set the point of my tools firmly into the groove for marking out. ...most modern rules are just etched which is no good for me... not only do i have 100's of contraction rules, i also need them to be 6" long 12" long 24" long and 1m long cos you dont want to be making something the size of a 50p with a 1m rule and you don't want to be making something 10' long with a 6" rule