Dr_Heech

Perfect for Belfast summers then

Last pair. The same as before but with the black stitching on the inside of the waist band, which was a pre-war detail BUT a silver buckle, so late 1941. The owner, a California thrifter, revealed that this pair cost him $2 from an estate sale. Got to be the find of a lifetime! Anyway, carry on.

Here's a pair of 501XX with the overlapped/female yoke. Talking to the owner, an avid denim collector from Japan, he confirms through discussions back home that these female-yoked pair date from c.1940. This year date is suggested as the beginning of the overlapped/female type of yoke. They would've had a silver buckle but it's been cut off. Thanks to masa vintage.

While we're all waiting for @Sympathy-For-The-Denim to carry on with his denim collection photo bombing, here's some more of my ramblings to help with all the 1930's back yoke theories. Hey, what else is there to do? If you look back to page 21 l think, l've posted many pics of other brands who tried to copy the famous Levis arcuates and apply them to their respective denim jeans; this roughly occurred from the late 1920's with brands like Penny's and Lee, right up until c.1940. Nearly all the pairs posted have the overlapped or female back horizontal yoke. Unlike Levis who continued with the male horizontal yoke. Two events happened around the same time: The introduction of the National Rodeo Association in 1927 and more importantly, the Great depression 1929-1933. Desperate for income in an austerity-driven climate, the two main Railway companies and Cattle bosses got together an idea to introduce eastern tourists to the idea of being a cowboy (or cowgirl) - holidaying on a real working western ranch . And so the Dude ranch was born. This would've been c.1934 l believe as the lady's Levis were introduced a year later. Now we know that the introduction of Levis patented hidden rivets was a direct result of the sudden popularity of Levis 501's outside of the usual cowboy/labourer market, and now l am wondering if the change in the horizontal yoke set up was also because of this? So a customer led thing, which was more about comfort? We know that the vertical back seam changed from right over left to left over right around 1936/37 (why was that? A comfort thing or manufacturing improvement?) but the more horizontal yoke didn't change until later. And it was very short lived. I guess we'll never know if Levis would have continued using the female horizontal yoke if the war hadn't intervened, but my theory is that it must've been more time consuming/expensive, as they dropped it and used the male style yoke that was always used before (since 1873). Anyway enough blah. Here are two photos stolen from lg. The first is the inside back of a pair of 501XX from c.1937 (the first hidden rivet model) and the second is the inside back of a pair of 501XX from 1942 (the last hidden rivet model with a buckle). On both pairs you can see straight away that the yoke is a male horizontal yoke. The only main difference is the copper-plated iron rivets on the 1942 pair. After this, the s501XX was introduced in late 1942 which obviously changed how the 501 would look after the war finally ended. To be continued ...

Warehouse have really impressed me; wish they'd been making this much variation in models back in early 2000's - l would've ditched lvc straight away. I think they do 3 or 4 different war models plus a 1941 with (probably) the wrong yoke, plus many others. CSF takes the prize for stitching, using old machines and general attention to detail/nuances. The WW2 denim is probably one of my favourites ever. Never been interested in anything TCB has to offer.

Tbh l'm well over all the WW2 repro stuff and have been for a couple of years. But l have to agree with @Flash, for me (pattern cutting and sizing issues aside) the CSF WW2 stuff is still head snd shoulders above any other WW2 repro stuff l've handled. Still have some Cone Lvc 1944's but they dont come close imo.

Came to that conclusion awhile back

Cheers, l couldn't remember. What l do remember is those other sz 36 47's which l briefly had off of you were much slimmer in the hips. Nobody knows (or even cares?) about the actual difference in cut other than the vague blurb they put out in their catalogue. My 1944's and my 1941's (both tag sized 38) are identical in fit and cut, just one pair seems mis-sized.

@beautiful_FrEaK l know they are your honeymoon model, but what model cut are they closest to, the Santa Cruz or the San Francisco? Or the other one? (Tbh l've never noticed any real difference in cuts, they all seem WW2ish/San Francisco, but one model had a slimmer silhouette iirc?)

Well they are very small adult size, so Hey, buy them for your kids and live vicariously through their sick fades*. If they were a 34/35 waist with a 32 leg then l wouldn't be selling, l'd be wearing (*which will last 2 years if you're lucky)

Another pair of almost identical vintage deadstock Wrangler youths denim jeans, in the same size but made a year earlier in c.1968. Same details as above, the only differences between the two pairs apart from the flasher dates is that this pair have a Gripper, rather than Scoville zipper pull on the fly. Also there is added white bartack stitching on the inside belt loops and the pocket stamps are different. Same top button stamp so same factory l'm guessing? Again, ideally looking for £150 plus postage to where you live (except in the uk). If someone would buy both pairs, l would do them a deal for £250.

Long shot but why not? A pair of late 1960's Wrangler youths jeans from the USA. These were made at a time just after the Bluebell's was dropped on the inside tag but also just before the typical black yoke tag with yellow rope writing became synonymous with wrangler during the 1970's. Also they are pre-broken twill- a transitional pair of sorts. This pair dates to c.1969. They are a size 27x30 and are made with 14oz Sanforized denim, so shrinkage 1%. They look to be a straight "cowboy' cut. New old stock so unworn/unwashed with (most of) the flasher still attached. Bought them by chance many years ago for my son, who obviously never wore them; they've been sitting at the bottom of a suitcase ever since. Shame really. Anyway, ideally looking for £150 plus postage/shipping (uk postage will be free)

I'm very boring and predictable. Definitely a pair of DS 501XX, but more realistically, l would love to find a pair of single stitch small e in a 36x36 in unworn/unwashed condition. That's my white whale.

Spot on Martin. Yep you summed it up perfectly. There was also the fact that the generic 66 big E came in a 'presentation box'. Then in '96 the 3 models that were introduced as the Levis vintage clothing range, the 2 you mentioned and the '1963 551zxx' ,with a zip fly obviously . The lvc stuff was a vast improvement on the 66.

Scottish bingo is shite.