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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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I think it would be fun to have a thread for us to talk about times we sized incorrectly, unfortunate or untimely blowouts, missed connections with a pair that just would never work out or just random general nonsense for our little community here.

 

So, anyone have any stories to share about when they first got into denim?

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My issue in the past was always outgrowing my jeans (the squats....) and trying too hard to make naked and famous' weird guy cut work for me. I had the growing out issue with my momotaro 0201s as well, had them tapered and they fit me perfectly off the get go after a hot soak but i soon out grew them and at around 6-7 months i had to give them a rest 

 

 

Here's my momotaro 0201 and these are way too tight in the top block....

VnRTKB9.jpg

 

Now I'm on a much better path and embracing some roomier fits and wider leg openings. If needed i just get them tapered, my tapered PBJ XX007 are my second favourite fitting pair next to my TFH3009. I've stopped competitive bodybuilding for now and my legs have shrank up a bit but i am much happier with how all my jeans are fitting and how i look in clothes

 

Now...TFH 3009

NDy28FM.jpg

 

If anyone has any recommendations for jeans that have a similar cut to the 3009 I'm all ears 

Edited by karanimal
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My issue in the past was always outgrowing my jeans (the squats....) and trying too hard to make naked and famous' weird guy cut work for me. I had the growing out issue with my momotaro 0201s as well, had them tapered and they fit me perfectly off the get go after a hot soak but i soon out grew them and at around 6-7 months i had to give them a rest 

 

 

Here's my momotaro 0201 and these are way too tight in the top block....

VnRTKB9.jpg

 

Now I'm on a much better path and embracing some roomier fits and wider leg openings. If needed i just get them tapered, my tapered PBJ XX007 are my second favourite fitting pair next to my TFH3009. I've stopped competitive bodybuilding for now and my legs have shrank up a bit but i am much happier with how all my jeans are fitting and how i look in clothes

 

Now...TFH 3009

NDy28FM.jpg

 

If anyone has any recommendations for jeans that have a similar cut to the 3009 I'm all ears 

buddy check the 3sixteen 30bsp, 32bsp cuts. They're very spot on.

 

My most recent frustration was a pair of Samurai's i had hemmed at a local Denim company here in Detroit. They hemmed one leg an inch shorter than the other.....This was after 3-4 not so hot hem jobs from them so i dont know why i ever went back.

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buddy check the 3sixteen 30bsp, 32bsp cuts. They're very spot on.

 

My most recent frustration was a pair of Samurai's i had hemmed at a local Denim company here in Detroit. They hemmed one leg an inch shorter than the other.....This was after 3-4 not so hot hem jobs from them so i dont know why i ever went back.

 

Detroit denim? I just sent 2 pairs of pants to get hemmed there........

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Detroit denim? I just sent 2 pairs of pants to get hemmed there........

 

 

 

im sorry =[ ive had a pair tapered, and 4 hems from them.

here's the last straw for me.

 

8mFBJAz.jpg

B3KNHbW.jpg

JmXvVUo.jpg

 

The taper job was ok. Slightly uneven taper on the way down.

 

Besides the images i posted my 3sixteen hem was super fat and really iregular and almost slipped off the hem a few times. Just not the most proficient job. I've stayed away from them over the last year so im hoping their quality in repairs has improved.

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Uhg, sorry to hear that. :unsure:

 

I'll post pictures when I get them back.  I sent a pair a while back to Detroit Denim to get the crotch repaired and I don't think the job was as good as Railcars.  I want to support local Midwest businesses and didn't want to wait for the longer turnover time with Railcar, so we'll see.....

 

Or another question would be what would you rather have? A sloppy chain stitch or a clean single stitch hem job?

Edited by Chubacca
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Uhg, sorry to hear that. :unsure:

 

I'll post pictures when I get them back.  I sent a pair a while back to Detroit Denim to get the crotch repaired and I don't think the job was as good as Railcars.  I want to support local Midwest businesses and didn't want to wait for the longer turnover time with Railcar, so we'll see.....

 

Or another question would be what would you rather have? A sloppy chain stitch or a clean single stitch hem job?

Absolutely a single stitch hem job. It'll hold up longer and look more uniform.

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Recently gave up a pair of Sugar Cane 2009s for the 47...I'm not sure which body type the 2009 is made for, but it's not mine. The waist was loose for a 33, but the thighs were painted on. It felt like I was wearing jeans made for a guy with a beer belly and chicken legs. 

 

Much happier with the 47 cut!

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As a noob to denim my biggest regret is not so much the denim but my conviction to wear the super heavyweight in the HWDC , I whimped it and went with a middleweight .

Next time around ill commit to something heavy !.

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I bought a pair of Denime in 2000 in a sale from Jones in Covent Garden. The only denim in that kind of sphere that I'd worn before were MiJ Edwin. I had them hemmed at some super budget dry cleaners before washing them (wtf) and when I eventually did wash them, they shrank so much in the leg that I could no longer wear them.

 

A total f**k up. Still kick myself about that.

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Funnily my biggest sizing mistakes happened during the last year (WH 800, WH 660, Samurai 710OG and recently 710BKB). In most cases I can't even tell what went arong, but there's something about a fit that the size charts don't seem to tell.

A few years ago it was pretty easy as I had 14 kgs less and could wear 32-33 with ease. No I'm leaning towards a 35,which is rarely done and so I end up getting too big or too small pairs. The ratio of the rise, the hip width and thighs are something that can be hardly judged from the sizing charts and as this my crucial area to make a fit work, I often sell the bad fits immediately. Maybe I should try and stretch them for longer but can't stand sitting at the desk for hours with a muffin top.

 

I fear my next purchase will have to be made in my local store, which might lead to me getting a standard pair of Iron Hearts or the like, but I finally want a pair that fits, fabric is only my third concern.

 

(Which reminds me of dear atzec, that left the japanese denim for nudies a while ago. Glad he's back in the game, though).

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Funnily my biggest sizing mistakes happened during the last year (WH 800, WH 660, Samurai 710OG and recently 710BKB). In most cases I can't even tell what went arong, but there's something about a fit that the size charts don't seem to tell.

A few years ago it was pretty easy as I had 14 kgs less and could wear 32-33 with ease. No I'm leaning towards a 35,which is rarely done and so I end up getting too big or too small pairs. The ratio of the rise, the hip width and thighs are something that can be hardly judged from the sizing charts and as this my crucial area to make a fit work, I often sell the bad fits immediately. Maybe I should try and stretch them for longer but can't stand sitting at the desk for hours with a muffin top.

 

I fear my next purchase will have to be made in my local store, which might lead to me getting a standard pair of Iron Hearts or the like, but I finally want a pair that fits, fabric is only my third concern.

 

(Which reminds me of dear atzec, that left the japanese denim for nudies a while ago. Glad he's back in the game, though).

 

Sorry to hear the news and hope it works out for you.  I wonder if the waist will stretch beyond raw.  I hope you keep with it because I'm very curious how those Sams will turn out.  

 

I am really tempted on purchasing size 34 710 Samurai's 17oz Black Shadow because the yen is so weak right now.  The sizing will be really cutting it close because of the back rise and waist being too low and tight.  Now after reading this, I will pass.  I'm still salty for sizing too tight for PBJ x-15s.

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my first pair of selvedge denim was the IH634S I bought at the store I now work retail.

even though I sized down a lot everything went out damn fine and I had a great companion for nearly two years of straight wear.

 

during that I bought myself a KAPITAL century denim pair that Jonathan was so kind to proxy for me, even though the fit was spot on and I really loved the jeans they ended up in my closet as I can't wear high rise jeans with my boney hips. and this is as ridiculous as it sounds...

 

even before the KAPITAL I copped a SugarCane Okinawa in raw state from a dutch (?) retailer in a size 32. I should have gone with a 29, or maybe 30...

 

right now I wear the best pair of jeans and also selvedge jeans I ever owned, the Denime 66, although its really only their basic model I love everything about it, especially the fit, and the denim is - surprisingly - a nice treat too!

 

after that came the really bad decisions. I bought a pair of IH666UHR for the DWC, sizing was all fine and they fit perfectly, but I don't like the fit, really don't. so I bought another IH634UHR.... fit was great and I like the silhouette but the back rise was maybe 2-3 cm too short and it always ended deep inside of my ass. I look like a moron wearing that pair. still trying to sell them.

 

after these two bad decisions I had to buy a pair that I could wear to work, so I bought myself my first and definitely last pair of cone mills denim - WHRANCH. the jeans are great, even the denim is okay, but the details and the amount of work put into the construction are next level and I am happy to own these as a testimony of what can be made. some weeks ago I started swimming and running again, I gain muscles pretty easy and so I got a big ass and big thighs (compared to the rest of my bony body) which resulted in a too short back rise again. desperate times.... I stretched the back rise with some power 2.5 cm maybe 3cm out, and now I everything is fine again.

 

there are ups and downs, ya know :-D

Edited by Blue Nemo
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Too short rise on the WH Ranch Dungarees? From his measurements I always had the feeling ge makes jeans with one of the highest rise around :D

 

 

 

I guess it depends on the cut, I have the 1901xx, but yes, talking about other so-called mid rise jeans the WHRanch has a longer back rise.

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Ah yea! The 1901 is his lowest rise of high rise cuts he offers! haha

I just had him measure me up for a pair of his High Ryder cut when he was out here Saturday! 

-Edwin

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  • 2 weeks later...

Recent hem job from Detroit Denim, I think they did a good job:

 

R1L2hTb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Oh shit these are the Pronto x PBJs?!?!?!??!! I hope you are not participating in the DWC cuz we'd be running with the same pairs lol.

 

As for my own mistakes... I have quite a lot of them.

 

1) Not doing my research on which Samurais are suited towards my body and going with a size 34 on the S610LX (because 32 was sold out) instead of switching to another cut.

 

2) Buying a pair of bootcut Samurai only to decide a month later that I don't like bootcut anymore and having to mail them to Railcar to get them tapered.

 

3) Buying Naked & Famous Oni Collab new with tag from another guy in size 31 and hoping that it would stretch out. It didn't and now I'm left with an unwearable jeans with intolerably low rise.

 

3.5) Coming across a brand new size 33 (perfect size for me) NFxOni and didn't buy it because I was stupid. I EVEN TRIED IT ON IN PERSON.  -_-

 

4) Buying a pair of Oni 507NV which never fades. I didn't know that it's supposed to be an unfadeable jeans because when I was talking to the shopkeeper at Hinoya he was telling me it has 'Speciaru Die' (which is true...) so I thought he meant natural indigo, not indanthrene blue! 

 

5) Not buying the Samurai S5000GX-M when it was first released in 2010. (although I wasn't into raw denim back then so I guess this doesn't count as a mistake - just a regret).

 

Still, we gotta give it to Marky Mark Twain with this quote: "Good decisions come from experienceExperience comes from making bad decisions." 

Edited by onehitwonder
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  • 2 weeks later...

That quality of warehouse products except the jeans and loopwheeled tees has degraded thru the years.

That the flathead jean sizing went from true to size to size up 4.

That newer brands from japan doesnt mean good quality .

That eternal jeans are just ordinary jeans

Fabric is basic

That samurai is over hyped and too much details going on

That fullcount is auper consistent with the quality of their jeans. The fabric is super consistent and construction cant say with the clothing line

That real mccoys quality also degraded. Specially their clothing line and sweats and tee shirts

That sugarcane quality only equals to its price .

That cushman products is super underrated that retailers in the usa should carry them

That muller and bros is worth a try just get a wallet or even a tee shirt is super worth it i swear

That pherrows quality of clothing and denim is not bad but can do better for tehprice

That flathead clothing and jeans quality keeps going up while other brands keeps going down

That you should start buying evisu jeans thats still NOT made by warehouse because it will be gone soon.

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Good to hear some real talk and that I'm not the only one who thinks flat head is the best of the best...

 

 

But people only size up a shitload because they're buying the wrong cut. For instance both my 3005 and 3009 are true to tagged size after full shrink/stretch
 

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Many good points, but personally I was disappointed by my recent Cushman indigo border T-shirt buy. Too long, collar is too loose, fabric is a bit on the rough side. I still have my eyes on some of their other products.


That sugarcane quality only equals to its price .

 

 

What does that mean haha?

Edited by Iron Horse
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Bro what size cushman border tee is that? I need help btw meant to be tucked in...

Sugarcanr is cheap so the products refelcts the price and i think its totally fair unlike some brands these days

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I think sugar cane is great for the price, and that price reflects lack of certain details, but they still have some pretty amazing proprietary fabric and I think the quality is as good as anything typical with cotton stitching. Ed, what's your opinion on iron heart?

Edited by SuperJackle
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