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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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On 9.2.2018 at 9:27 PM, iamsuperflush said:

Yo can we talk about how weird it is that Ruedi is basically encouraging this dude to jerk off into his jeans here and here? I mean I get he is the swissjeansfreak but still...

 

 

On 10.2.2018 at 7:46 AM, volvo240thebest said:

Weird! Did you guys had a look at that dude feed? Don't do it!

 

 

Demon.PNG

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What do you guys think about shrinkage? There are obviously numerous opinions on washing denim and how it affects fades, but I'm thinking about how shrinkage affects the fit, initially and over time. I've been a little apprehensive about soaking/washing my Roy Memorial jeans, because they are huge on me in raw state (and I may offer them for sale as I know someone would cop them). I had a brief exchange with with Roy, and reading through his care instructions, his strong opinion is to only do a light cold soak and then wear them for as long as possible - months - before washing thoroughly. He told me not to over wash the jeans to achieve more shrinkage, or I'll mess them up. I'm certainly not going to argue against his opinion.

In general, it seems the recommendation around here, including myself, is to initially wash/soak jeans - of any nature of denim - at least once if not a couple of times to get as much shrink out as possible, before one wears them for extended periods. Then there won't be any surprises in the future with more shrink when it's time to wash them for real. Also, once creases start to set in, they won't move from where they originally developed.

I don't buy into the idea of wear you jeans in the tub so they shrink to your body, and I'm not convinced that there's much merit to the idea of wearing STF jeans in raw state for months before washing so they conform to your body and by then washing you'll end up with a perfectly fitting pair. I completely agree w/ Roy's statement that jeans are an ill-fitting garment to begin with. Depending on your body type, activity, cut and sizing of the jeans, they will stretch over time to conform. 

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Roy knows his stuff for sure, but I strongly disagree with him on this point. If I ever spill something nasty on my jeans, I want to be certain that tossing them in the machine on warm with plenty of detergent isn't going to drastically change how they fit, and the only way to know for certain is to have already shrunk them fully.

Edited by julian-wolf

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His response sounds almost like intentional eccentricity.  They are jeans not a Picasso, how could a few wash/dry cycles drastically alter the garment in any way outside of what is to be expected when washing/drying unsanforized denim?  

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...and in other slow news, skateboards can be dangerous if you don’t wear knee pads...

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I generally practise what Roy preaches.

I think with raw denim, from its start, one was generally instructed to soak the jeans not wash them - partly because washing was simply more trouble. I have done what Roy suggests perhaps 60% of the time, because it feels significantly different: much crisper, and that's a feel I really like for new jeans. It's also thought that, with more starch and resins present, the jeans don't absorb as much dirt. You are likely to get more broken threads in the honeycombs though.

I know Roy really likes the look of new denim (as do I) and isn't in a hurry for it to wear in. So his suggestion is pretty consistent with that. I personally haven't experienced any real drawbacks; wear lines definitely don't move, and the extra shrinkage tends to be minimal for a 30 or 40 degree wash. I washed my TCB 20s in the machine for max shrinkage at the start, but I think on the reboot, I'll take the ROy approach, as i prefer the feel - also, your damn turn-ups stay in place with more starch and sizeing in the jeans!

OVerall, I don't think either approach gives a significantly different result down the line; it's more about how you want your jeans to feel in the first few months.

Edited by Paul T

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I didn't find any of my jeans losing significant crispness after an initial machine wash and line drying. IIRC the 20s even got crisper in feel and texture. Granted, only soaking may result in the same feel, but they definitely didn't soften in any way that I could feel from washing.

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They're unsanforised jeans... designed and intended to be washed before wear! Soak and/or wash then wear em. Only a 90 degree or boil wash will really drastically effect the fabric.

I think by over washing he's referring to mutiple attempts to shrink?

Soak, wash wear.

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Guys I’m kinda in love with my regular, department store STF 501’s over my OOE’s and Sugar Canes.  I think I’m kinda of burnt out on denim in general.

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2 hours ago, Ciabatta said:

Guys I’m kinda in love with my regular, department store STF 501’s over my OOE’s and Sugar Canes.  I think I’m kinda of burnt out on denim in general.

Its hard to argue with the basic 501 STF. The regular STF cut is awesome. I wish they'd release a LVC type quality STF 50 ( I know there is the made in USA 501 with cone denim but take a look at the stitching/back pockets and you shall see my issue ) Especially priced in my strike zone of sub $200. 

Edited by erk

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For raw unsanforized denim, one initial hot soak (as hot as my faucet can do) followed by a 30-40 degree Celsius wash in the maschine. After that, I wash my jeans pretty much the same way I wash other my clothing: machine washing at 30-40 deg Cels and line dry if the weather allows it. Denim always turns out crispy after a line dry, but machine drying makes them really soft (a little too soft for my liking, hence I prefer line drying)

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5 hours ago, Ciabatta said:

Guys I’m kinda in love with my regular, department store STF 501’s over my OOE’s and Sugar Canes.  I think I’m kinda of burnt out on denim in general.

I've been feeling fatigue for "workwear" in general as well, and I know I've mentioned here even recently. Not really feeling the "athletic" trend that dominates currently either (reigning champ sweats and adidas boost sneaks, etc). 

The old guard has been preaching peak selvedge for awhile, and I think we're finally past the breaking point. 

 

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1 hour ago, SuperJackle said:

I've been feeling fatigue for "workwear" in general as well, and I know I've mentioned here even recently. Not really feeling the "athletic" trend that dominates currently either (reigning champ sweats and adidas boost sneaks, etc). 

The old guard has been preaching peak selvedge for awhile, and I think we're finally past the breaking point. 

 

Funny as I had a store credit at Levi’s this summer and ran in picked up a pair of 502s in a size down with stretch — I hate to admit washed — without trying them on . Had no idea even what they were.

the denims  Mexico made but very thick and heavy in a good quality way.   Find my self reaching for them often. They also have something that no one but left field has nailed, a higher rise with thin thighs and legs....

Edited by kbuzz

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12 hours ago, Cucoo said:

I didn't find any of my jeans losing significant crispness after an initial machine wash and line drying. IIRC the 20s even got crisper in feel and texture.

The hardness of water will drastically affect how stiff something is when it comes out of a soak or wash. Here in my current city the water is hard. We have filters on the sink tap for drinking and most new homes probably install a water softening unit for the house.

Stuff comes out of the wash stiff as a board, even knit t-shirts unless I spin dry it, and/or or use a softening agent in the wash/soak.

I can't wait to move to a city with soft water again, I hate hard water for washing!

Edited by Sensuki

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44 minutes ago, Sensuki said:

The hardness of water will drastically affect how stiff something is when it comes out of a soak or wash. Here in my current city the water is hard. We have filters on the sink tap for drinking and most new homes probably install a water softening unit for the house.

Stuff comes out of the wash stiff as a board, even knit t-shirts unless I spin dry it, and/or or use a softening agent in the wash/soak.

I can't wait to move to a city with soft water again, I hate hard water for washing!

Makes perfect sense. I live in a place with lots of mineral deposits (chalk) in the water and denim turns out like it was starched after a line dry

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1 hour ago, Sensuki said:

The hardness of water will drastically affect how stiff something is when it comes out of a soak or wash. Here in my current city the water is hard. We have filters on the sink tap for drinking and most new homes probably install a water softening unit for the house.

Stuff comes out of the wash stiff as a board, even knit t-shirts unless I spin dry it, and/or or use a softening agent in the wash/soak.

I can't wait to move to a city with soft water again, I hate hard water for washing!

Yeah, my city's water is very hard, too - I'm using tabs in the machine for softening the water and dealing with the stupid high chalk grade in our tap water.

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In NC, we have coal ash in our water, curtesy of Duke Energy! :)

And I'm willing to bet we have some lead in there too.

Edited by mlwdp

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^^ EBMUD provides the master of all water services, gotta love living that drinking-unfiltered-tap-water lifestyle 

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19 hours ago, Sensuki said:

The hardness of water will drastically affect how stiff something is when it comes out of a soak or wash. Here in my current city the water is hard. We have filters on the sink tap for drinking and most new homes probably install a water softening unit for the house.

Stuff comes out of the wash stiff as a board, even knit t-shirts unless I spin dry it, and/or or use a softening agent in the wash/soak.

I can't wait to move to a city with soft water again, I hate hard water for washing!

I've never used soft water to wash any of my clothes ever, so I can't comment on that. 

When I've been out of town for work, I couldn't stand soft water. It never felt like it got the soap off my hands when washing them or showering. I always felt slippery and thought it was weird. 

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5 hours ago, aho said:

yeah - as posted by Mr. Evisu...

who is on it? Real McCoy, Evisu, FullCount, Denime/Resolute?, First Arrow?, Warehouse and who else?

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I can’t believe Roy could be serious with those instructions. I wouldn’t buy a pair of jeans if you couldn’t even wash them... what a joke. 

Only after I began washing my jeans up front on hot did i find a pair that fit me in the long run

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Reflection/General Nonsense

 

I currently have but 1 pair of jeans in my collection that I do not even enjoy (Stevenson Overall 727) because while moving a few weeks back i sold everything except my TCB 20s contest pair. Now that Ive sent back my 20s and am not getting another pair, I am stuck for what to get.

Frankly, I am feeling a little bit burnt out. Ive been browsing every online denim store and forum I can think of trying to find what I want next, but I feel like I am looking at the same 40 pairs of very slim jeans (thats cool, Im just not really into that cut any more and am trying to move into something different) and its become a little discouraging.

Ive got a few ideas, but nothing I have been able to fully commit to.

Dawson Denim Wide Leg Jeans or Wide Taper Jeans? - they look gorgeous, and in most of the photos I see of them, they fit everybody very well and have a great look. The only slight barrier for me is that they are deffinitely at the top of my price range as they will cost me around $500 Canadian by the time I get them

Atlast & Co? - deffinitely interested in these. These are mostly what peaked my interested into wider fits and all of their silhouettes look really fucking good, but the difficulty of trying to get a pair of these as a Western.. I feel its nearly impossible. So I havent gotten these yet either

Pherrows 500sw? - these also look like one that I would be into trying. I follow a fellow on IG who wears these and they look very good on him. These are less of a wide cut than the other two, but would still work for the silhouette that I am looking to achieve. The price point on these is VERY friendly seeing as most places have them for around $200 Canadian dollars. 1 gripe I have with these is that they come with a very long inseam, and cant seem to find a place that sells them and also offers hemming. Is there a North American store who would let me mail these in for a hem job?

 

I dont know if this is a cry for help, a complaint, a discussion or a stream of conciousness.. but there you have it hahaha

F28BB9C0-FC96-460F-893A-5F60168CE2DF.jpeg

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Buy some TCBs or Sugar Cane 47s. Sorted for relatively few $$$/£££/€€€/¥¥¥

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@MasonAlexander alternatively you could buy these pre-lawsuit SDA 102s - the widest cut made by SDA and a bargain from a great seller. They are hard to find anyway and with these arcs, tab and patch, virtually impossible.

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SD102 is a great looking cut, IIRC JaredLee had a pair in the 102

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1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

@MasonAlexander alternatively you could buy these pre-lawsuit SDA 102s - the widest cut made by SDA and a bargain from a great seller. They are hard to find anyway and with these arcs, tab and patch, virtually impossible.

Those are really cool. I like those as a hide in my closet for fun piece, but im not sure that is the cut that I am looking for

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