julian-wolf

My favorite (least favorite) example of this sort of thing is the logwood-dyed waist overalls from TCB / Viktor's Voice. The example that they were working from was heavily faded to a light brown, so they went through months of R&D to figure out how best to reproduce this light brown color using logwood dye. Meanwhile, the other example they were working from was standard denim heavily faded to a light blue. Did they dye the yarns for their reproduction light blue? No, of course not—they did the sensible thing and dyed them dark blue, with the hope & expectation that, if worn similarly to the originals, they would end up looking similar. This is what every repro company does for every indigo pair of jeans, and it never made any sense to me why they took such a different approach for the brown pair, just on the basis of that being the current color of the one example that they had access to.

Crazy hot out, here, for the past week Great Lakes / The Rite Stuff / Hollows / Sassafras / Russell

Anyone familiar with the Homesick label carried by Mirrorball? Really like the look of this shirt in particular https://www.the-rising.co.jp/item/1964/

Is size 18 new this season, for shirts?

How does the cut of the Uplander compare to the Skid Row? Really really like the look of that

Yesterday Great Lakes / Tender Co. / Tezomeya / Tightly Stitched / Cane’s / Russell

Whoa, I remember seeing those at some or other event at S&S probably close to 10 years ago, I would’ve assumed they were all long gone by now

Slow going?? The RB fabric is some of the quickest fading black denim I’ve seen, it feels like

Great Lakes / Tender Co. / Union Special / Cane’s / Russell

Great detective work there All things considered, that seems much easier to follow than M1* / SC1* = jackets, M4* / SC4* = pants, etc.…I wonder why they decided to switch it up

Yes, I've seen MJ codes on a few Henry Lear jackets before, but never made much of it. There was a Henry Lear take on the 65/35 Mountain Parka that I was really interested in for a while (I'm forever in love with the original Sierra Designs version), but I never had any luck finding any in my size. Looks like at least a couple are still up on Yahoo + Mercari. This is the first and only time I've seen any MJ-series denim. I wonder whether the takeaway is that all the non-denim jackets we're seeing are from the MP / MJ era, or just that they continued that numbering convention for non-denim items after switching to M-series for denim? The latter would be similar to how Buzz Rickson's stuff still kept M-series tags until (I think) just a few years ago, long after main-line Sugar Cane had switched to SC-series.

The Tender Co. denim pocket bags are pretty bullet proof

Here's something I've never seen before I guess in the era before M-series product numbers, when Pants were given MP-series numbers, Jackets were given MJ-series… (Can anyone confirm???) Sorry for the low-quality images; Mercari Shops is being weird

In action Great Lakes / Sun Surf / Cane’s / Russell

Picked up two new pairs of riding gloves from James Churchill, both unlined deerskin—really comfortable so far

@mlwdp They look nice & thick What are your first impressions? Seem comfortable? What are they made of?

@rbeck They’re looking great, looking forward to a real update when the time comes Great Lakes / Tender shades / Ooe / Tezo / Duke / Cane’s + Russell vellies

Picked up these 4005C recently for a good price Can’t find much info on them, but I guess they’re a different fabric (LHT with a brown, maybe plant dyed warp and a dark weft) version of the 3005C from around 2004–2006. Classic mid-‘50s detailing with a zipper fly, and of course the old editable arcs These have clearly been worn an okay amount based on the lightening around the seat & thighs, but there’s no noticeable damage of any sort, and if I were just looking at the hems, seams, tags, & patch I’d guess that they’d never (or very seldom) been washed The fit’s good, a little on the slim end but still within the range of what I’ve been enjoying wearing recently. I’ll post some fits at some point. Overall, pretty excited for these

Not sure what you mean by this. Are you suggesting that for a higher rise you’ll want shorter legs? If so, yeah, that’s generally wrong. Overall, it seems like you’re maybe expecting to glean a little too much from measurements. Clothes are complicated 3D shapes, and a few simple 1D measurements are never going to do a great job of describing how they’ll fit, at least beyond “yeah, that’s probably the right size” or “those are definitely too slim”. On top of that, if you’re used to having issues with jeans’ thighs being too slim, it’s likely that the most relevant measurement would be the width of the legs 3–6” below the crotch seam, since this is where pants tend to get the most restrictive—and this rarely shows up on any size charts anyways. I can’t say whether this is still the case for their newer models, but historically Momotaro’s cuts have tended to be fairly slim through the seat and not so rounded through the hips (something that isn’t expressed in measurement charts), so that could be a limiting factor as well if you’ve been lifting.

^ Maybe MOTO or Black Sign? Are either of those long enough? Or Dawson’s Wide Tapered cut? You’re right that Warehouse isn’t likely to work well for you

I'm sure this has been asked before (hell, I've probably even asked it myself), but how's sizing on Buzz shirts? Interested in the classic chambray work shirt (and also the recent William Gibson version). How does the XL fit compared to a Warehouse 42 or a Freewheelers 17?

You’re even a nerd about lighting; most of us these days would settle for fluorescent

That perspective might shift if you had some tees made from fabric worth appreciating After all, I’d bet a vast majority of folks would say the same about jeans if asked, and you’ve never seemed to have any trouble on that front

Great Lakes x2 / The Flat Head / The Vanishing West / Russell

Looks great—I love the use of the original hem for the top of the pocket (+ the busted seam down the middle)