julian-wolf

Weekend sorta look Bronson / Tender / Orgueil / Cane's / Chaco

Hey @rodeo bill, I may have missed this higher up in the thread, but do you happen to have any closeup photos of the orange cotton gingham fabric used for the Type 428 shirt from S/S 2013? Looking for more short-sleeved shirts and this seems like it might be a good option.

Go for the jacket: jewelry's stupid

Sassafras SF-10484 fit, detail pics remain to be taken…eventually

^ Will do—not warm enough this week to warrant shorts, but some time in the next few

x-post from WAYWT: just got in a Prussian Blue carding cloth boomerang shirt that's looking like it'll be just what I've been after. Exciting!

cozy / lounge-y to the max-x-x Tender Co. / Gustin / Cane's / RW

Ended up with a pair of their 100% cotton double-back shorts and I couldn't be happier. Design, cut, materials, and construction all seem right up there. Could do with slightly wider legs, but that's a problem with my thighs more than with the shorts. Will aim to post some detail shots to the Unknown Brands thread some or other upcoming weekend.

That sleeve measurement is really hopeful…I skipped out on this one specifically 'cause I was worried the sleeves would come up short Anyone else have input on how consistent these are w.r.t. the size charts?

^^ I go with whatever makes the jeans the right length I think I've only ever had two pairs hemmed after production, and none after shrinking, so it's always sorta been a toss-up

MiUSA head to toe: happy 4th!

^ The faded red is really nice, you're right. Seeing shots like those brings to mind the color Roy uses for the selvedge ID of his Black Seed denim, which is described similarly

More of the same…TFH, Gustin, Cane's, TFH

Went for a really nice hike this weekend in Desolation Wilderness w/ my oldest, comfiest Cane's This was the view from our base camp at Ralston Lake: After getting in and pitching camp on Friday afternoon, we didn't waste any time getting up the mountain on the other side of the lake, which offered a great view of lakes (CW from bottom left) Ralston, Tamarac, Fallen Leaf, Tahoe, and Echo, as well as (not pictured) Aloha. Great start to the trip! On Saturday we rambled up what will, in a month or so, be the PCT—for now, it was nothing but miles of largely-unmarked snow—and explored a whole other series of lakes farther West, most impressive of which was probably Aloha: The high-point, for me, was probably Jabu Lake, which was still around 3/4 frozen-over, but which had just enough liquid showing to warrant running barefoot through the snow to jump in and swim across for some good mid-afternoon adrenaline: We didn't get a shot of it, sadly, but turning 180° from where the above photo was taken put us right at the edge of a pretty sizable cliff that offered one of the best views I've seen in the Sierra, off towards Mt. Tallac and Lake Tahoe with a whole cluster of lakes, waterfalls, forests, and rock walls in the foreground. I never get tired of hiking around this area—for anyone who hasn't, the whole of El Dorado Nat'l Forest is worth exploring as thoroughly as possible.

^^ Paul, that'd be great if you have it accessible—I'm not volunteering to translate, but if someone steps up and does so there's bound to be plenty of good info

Agreed that adding a little extra fabric and stitching over with poly thread is the way to go. I actually just had to do this for my Hawaiis a couple of weeks ago, minus the extra reinforcement fabric. The placket's actually a kinda neat place to need to reinforce, since—if enough of the original stitching's gone—you should be able to slide the extra fabric between the two placket layers right in through the button hole making it fully hidden. Should be a fun repair.

^ That all seems like good info, fair enough. Regarding the emergence of sorghum as a crop in Hawaii: how recent is "quite recent"? As far as I know, Nihon Menpu didn't start making any of their mixed-fibre denims until maybe around 2004 or so? At least that's when Sugar Cane started making their mixed-fibre jeans

^^ I think this is likely intentional. You'll see the same thing on Resolute's jeans, so I figure it's probably true-to-repro in some sense, but I agree that it's really unappealing. More power to any folks who're into it, but that's one of those details that's pretty much a dealbreaker for me.

As mentioned above, I don't think actual sugar cane fibres are used for all that much, and when they are it's more like a rayon / viscose sorta deal. Heddels generally isn't all that trustworthy of a resource.

^ As far as I know, the only connection is that they smell similar and grow well in similar climates. Millet is used directly for fibre; whereas, fibre derived from sugar cane is a byproduct of sugar production (Sugar Cane also seems to have used this for their clothes, occasionally—I remember there being a pair of cane / poly blended shorts a few seasons ago that advertised this explicitly…but that also could've been a misunderstanding of a poor translation).

As far as I'm aware (someone please correct me if this isn't the case / is no longer the case) the sugar millet plants that are used for fibre are unrelated, besides in scent and country of origin, to the sugar cane plants that are used for sweetener and fuel. I guess I just wouldn't expect sugar cane production to be closely correlated with sugar millet production, unless something more general was going on with labor / trade / whatever else.

^ Yeah, I'd also find it hard to believe that the 50/50 makeup mentioned in their catalogues and on their labels was blatantly false. Maybe he was referring to bagasse coming not from the Sugar Cane plants for which the brand is named, but from the less-recognizable sugar millet that grows rampant? Translations are tough.

^ They have a few sub-brands that consistently seem to put out interesting stuff. This is tagged Oahu Garment Co. (actually doesn't allude to Sun Surf anywhere at all besides the SS product code); they mostly put out blouses and work jackets in similar "palaka check" patterns. The other sub-brand that has stood out to me, especially in the last couple of seasons, is Union Supply, which seems to be more factory- / navy-inspired. The fabric that they used for this shirt is one of my favorites of all that I own—check pattern aside, the yarn / weave combo has an awesome dry hand that breathes great and stays really crinkle-y even sans starch, almost like a heavy-gauge linen. The factory wash seems to have shrunk it a ton, as there's plenty of puckering, and they've used this to their advantage by cutting the yoke horizontally so that the main back panel's ended up with a bunch of extra width post-shrink, comparatively, just as if there was a sizable pleat (which there isn't). Would've made it horrible try and size a non-wash version, but ends up giving great range of motion. Great design overall.

Sun Surf, TFH, Cane's, Cabourn Will take some time to get used to the (relatively) lower rise on these, but overall I'm plenty happy with the fit so far. Plenty happy with the details, too, but that goes without saying.

In Denim Blunders news: saw someone wearing Test Lot jeans in the wild for the first time, this past Saturday. Was at the market and saw a dude in pants that looked real familiar; said something like "hey you with the jeans", and he looked sorta embarrassed, so I didn't push a conversation. I get not wanting to talk about clothes with random strangers…I guess I just figured folks wearing Roy's jeans would make up a narrow enough group that there'd be some interest. If you're on here: Hey! (For the record, I'm counting this as a blunder on his part, not mine.)