julian-wolf

Anyone tried Cottle? Their jeans are too loud with visible selvedge detailing and all that, but some of their other clothes are very appealing—looking at their yak wool fleeces and some of their casual / lounge pants, in particular Seems sort of similar to the likes of Kapital in spirit / aesthetic, but with maybe more of a focus on natural dyes, which is really appealing to me Wondering if anyone can comment on the style or quality of construction, or if anyone has a good read on the broader ideology of the brands in general? The prices are very high, so would rather not go in blind…

Probably, yeah My TCB size is 1 up from my SC and IH size (34 vs. 33), and, while I don’t have a pair of standard ‘50s, going TTS usually seems like a safe bet with TCB

Nice blog post talking with the folks from one of the main mills TCB uses: https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/blogs/ニュース/shinya-mills (Don’t think I’ve seen anyone else post this yet? Maybe I missed it)

^ Size based on the raw waist, not washed. If you want a true 32” waist, you’ll probably want a size 32 in TCB—but, if you want a true 32” waist, your size 32 Cane’s and Iron Hearts are probably about an inch too big for you… You sure you’re measuring them right & that they’re fully stretched out?

@Flash, those jeans are looking really great—seems 3 years is just about the sweet spot. Can you, or anyone else with similar extra supreme vintage Levi’s knowledge / experience comment on the orientation of the pocket backings? Looks like they’re cut at a strong diagonal, almost right on the bias, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen that on other repros. It seems like just the sort of thing Levi’s would have done (maybe on an individual factory basis?) in order to tile patterns more efficiently on the fabric stock, but was it wide-spread? Are there photos of the sample pair available anywhere for viewing (assuming these were based on a particular pair of jeans)? Really fascinating stuff Can’t comment much on the pricing increase. Personally, I’ve never seen the appeal—they’re beautiful jeans, but the combo of trying to perfectly reproduce jeans of old while simultaneously working in semi-intentional flaws and whimsies just seems like it embodies a strong disconnect. If I want well-made repros in the style of old jeans, I’m happy with old Cane’s or Warehouse. If I want the production to really feel well-done-but-rushed in a similar way to old school Levi’s, Tender Co. really seems like the obvious choice at this point—the whimsy there just feels so much more real and honest than with this sort of thing…not that I’m very qualified to comment, having never owned a pair

Post-wash update on the S2004 Maybe 6 months' regular wear at this point, give or take

Laundry day Tender Co. / Tailor Orgueil / Hollows / Cane's / Red Wing &: TCB, TFH, Leroy

Those are gorgeous Funny mix of details, though, with the hidden rivets & the the single-chainstitched waistband with the V-stitch and everything… edit: Looking again, I guess pretty much everything about the jeans is Levi's besides the logo & the hardware, unless there's a whole period of '30s Wranglers I've never caught wind of?

Makes sense. I also expect that you and I may like our shirts to fit differently, or are limited by different minimum / maximum acceptable measurements in different areas (or maybe it’s just me fighting against the variety of intended fits & you accepting them) All I really look at when sizing shirts is the shoulders, neck, and sleeves—those need to fit well to be wearable; the rest of the cut is up to the designer / manufacturer to get right Given the differences in style, it’s possible that I “should” be wearing a 17 1/2 in everything they make—but I do like how my Union Special shirts fit as-is, and I’m sure I couldn’t fit into the Painted Desert if it was a half size smaller…go figure

I think it’s the #1333008, cotton / wool mix Based on the puckering on the cotton chambray lining at the neck and yoke, it seems like the fabric shrank quite a bit in the initial wash (haven’t seen any appreciable shrinkage since)

For what it’s worth, the collar on my 17 1/2 flannel Painted Desert is tighter than the collar on my 17 cotton / linen Neal, as are the shoulders The cuts are different, and I embrace that in choosing how to wear the different shirts—but, even beyond that, the sizing is not consistent

I have a few Union Special shirts that all fit very well in a 17, but my one Vanishing West shirt in a 17 1/2 is also just about perfect—seems to vary between subbrands (or maybe this is just a fluke)

Ues / d’Artisan / Hollows / Cane’s / Lofgren

It's been 6+ months and we still don't have a thread for folks to show off their fancy masks! I'll start us off: I just made a fresh batch yesterday that I'm really happy with; they're raw silk, with a herringbone twill interior and a slightly embellished basketweave exterior, and they're big enough to fit snugly but comfortably around a beard Not all are yet strung, but I did dye 3 1/2 of them yesterday, one in brazilwood and the rest in trusty turmeric The brazilwood was fun—I'd never dyed with wood before, and I don't think I let the liquor steep for as long as I should have; the result was less depth of color than I was hoping for (although much more than shows up in the photos, for whatever reason), but still a great shade (Also shown, 2 pair mohair socks) I have some fun masks from past months, but no photos on hand—will aim to take some this weekend, maybe Exhibit, complain, discuss

Ues / Merz / Tightly Stitched / TCB / Cabourn

Really a fan of the profile of those lace-up boots…

Thanks @persco_. My current daily is the Black-Out Complete Watch from GS/TP, and that's just about the perfect case size (and style) for me, so you've pretty much hit the nail on the head. I'm on the lookout for something a little more formal-feeling, which is where the Vague may come in. Any tips on where to start hunting for vintage?

Any experience with the Jelado "Standard Collection"? Looks like some interesting options, fairly repro-oriented (besides maybe in cut) https://www.jelado.com/product/6276 https://www.jelado.com/product/5041 https://www.jelado.com/product/6264 https://www.jelado.com/product/4564

Any experience with Vague Watch Co.? Really like the look of the Vabble. Seems like the cases are outsourced; the movements are from Japan, but it’s not clear to me who makes them… Always open to suggestions for other mechanical watches (preferably auto) in ~30 mm cases / with this general form factor—the options seem to be very slim

Did anyone end up going for these? Really interested to know more—wasn’t super interested in the particular makeup that was offered this time around, but could def. be in if they expand their offerings in the future

They look great. How’s the sizing? Both of the pairs of MiUSA Cane’s I’ve tried have been about a size smaller than they’re MiJ equivalents, but that’s back 15 years now in terms of production. Any comparison to the MiJ ‘47?

Which model are those? Are they MiUSA? Train tracks look wide for SC MiJ

Great, will aim to do so. Haven’t been into the city since maybe August—should be fun Thanks!

Excited for the indigo linen shirts Do you know whether they'll be cut the same as previous runs? It's seemed like TFH has made some significant changes to their shirt patterns, in general, over the last few years, & I'm still trying to dial in what works and what doesn't

Nope, federal government's paying for it