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julian-wolf

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julian-wolf last won the day on November 25 2019

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About julian-wolf

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    obsessed
  • location:
    Berkeley, CA
  • occupation:
    Physics!

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  1. julian-wolf

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    I think you’re looking at a very different scale. Dye not penetrating to the cores of yarns is dependent on the dyeing process, as you’ve said, and yarns that aren’t dyed to their cores will fade as the outsides of the yarns wear away. Regardless of what dyeing method is used, different dyes will act differently. Some (reactive dyes) will permanently cling to the fibers, changing their appearance. Others (fugitive dyes, like indigo) will work their way into the fibers without actually attaching themselves. How well they work their way in will depend, among other things, on the size of the dye molecules. Fugitive dyes will generally wash out over time—though slowly, if used correctly—whereas reactive dyes will be more permanent. Anything happening on the fiber scale should be pretty independent of anything happening on the yarn scale, apart from informing what sorts of techniques should be used. Ai denim is (generally) dyed to the core using fugitive indigo dye. Iron Heart’s SBG denim is likely dyed to the core using a reactive dye.
  2. julian-wolf

    TCB

    Say it out loud: maybe it’s supposed to be pronounced “slimmer” as in “holy fuck these pants are slimmer than anything any sane adult should be wearing”
  3. julian-wolf

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    More or less, yeah. Washing seems to get rid of any tension that’s built up in a fabric. Weaving spun yarns into a twill tensions the yarns, as do skewing and sanforization. Washing releases the tension (is there’s any net tension left) and causes leg twist.
  4. julian-wolf

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    This sort of processing isn’t quite that smart. It doesn’t reduce the overall amount of tension in the yarns; it just tries to compensate for what’s there by adding more tension in the opposite direction. The fabric doesn’t really have any way of knowing what its original, un-skewed state is. As far as it’s concerned, skewing less in the right direction and skewing a bit in the wrong direction are different extents of the same thing. You’ll often see this happening with jeans made from heavily-sanforized denim, too: the pre-processing overcompensates for the initial tension in the yarns and, come wash time, they get torqued in the opposite direction.
  5. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Should be a strap (or two?) on the inside of each shoulder?
  6. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Always been tempted by those, but I can’t imagine the elastic will have held up well over the last ~25 years and that uncertainty’s kept me from ever pulling the trigger
  7. julian-wolf

    Unknown Japanese Brands

    Those are beauts From the final shot (of the hem), the fabric looks much thicker / heavier than we usually see on this style of repro—is that the case, or are my eyes just messing with me?
  8. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    The originals (and all of the other SC40X00 model numbers) were 50/50 blends Out of curiosity, what about the sugar cane blends do you dislike?
  9. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @SmokeStackLightning, from the first photo (in particular, how little the seat seam angles out towards the seat) it's clear that there's very little hip and thigh room. Likewise, the top block looks pretty square, without any appreciable taper in towards the waist. The photo could just be taken weirdly—I'd love to be proven wrong—but it honestly looks even tighter up top than the Type III.
  10. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Jeez, just based on the top block in that photo the cut looks like it’s gonna be terrible. Better something than nothing, all things considered, but still sad to see them going this route for jeans with as much history / lore as their natural-dyed line of 15 years ago.
  11. julian-wolf

    WAYWT 2020 (Denim Edition)

    I thought that was Volvo’s job???
  12. julian-wolf

    Sugar Cane Denim

    No, that’s the standard patch for the lot 100 Feels like we just had this conversation a page ago edit: Maybe “no” is the wrong answer in as much as the 100 was a precursor to the 401, but you get the idea
  13. julian-wolf

    What are your jeans doing today?

    Congratulations! Great way to reign in the new year
  14. julian-wolf

    New Contest Suggestions

    ^ Did you pay the $10? I guess I stand corrected
  15. julian-wolf

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Why does Superfuture think this thread is "Hot!" all of a sudden?