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Paul T

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Everything posted by Paul T

  1. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    those are lovely photos! I am belatedly shrinking down the nice piece of linen I use for repairs. What will everyone do with their pairs once we finish? I am out of space in my denim box. PS: does anyone else detest Apple Photos? It is absolutely useless.
  2. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Aw, is he one of those cute Year 7s? Thomas Tallis in Greenwich. Insanely fun adrenalised first proper 'teaching' day today.
  3. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    My sneaky tricks include a new job where I wear a suit! I am waiting on Lady T finding time to install what I think might be the world's laptop-wear repair patch, it's very exciting.
  4. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Although there's not the historic legacy of tone, Kaihara supplied a lot of the LVC Japan denim which was always thought to be great. THe -200 error has been aroudn for a bit, means we can't upload files and have to host them somewhere else.
  5. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Officially, it's the first time it's happened I believe - although US production was contracted out, in any case, from 2003 or so when they closed their own factories, first to Taylor Togs and then to various others. They have a small scale facility in battery street where they prototype stuff, experiment with finishes, and do small runs.
  6. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Do we know that all the raw denim is made in Bulgaria? Previously it was washed made in Turkey, raw in the US. If so, that is shitty. But i am sitting on a good stock. I think, for instance, things like my 3-pleat are some of the best Levi's products ever. But every mountain eventually crumbles into the sand.
  7. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Loch Ness NEver done it before, but had a great time wandering up mountains etc with rugby and football types Scotland is drop-dead beautiful. But those bastard midges! This place was the site of a Jacobite battle in 1719, after which it was reduced to rubble for 200 years. Wash time soon. Needs a repair or two again. thanks Bartles. The boy done good... if the thread's running in October, we'll be posting some pix of a nice town.
  8. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    We did make it to the Zetland arms... the pup was a bit hot at the end of that walk. I checked and see the upload function is dead for the time being so... our pad for the final night in France. Ferry home...
  9. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    We went to the south east coast of Britanny... full of small water inlets. And at the end of many... oyster farms. Yay! Lots of Palourde clams. 6€ a kilo! Just down the road is a sweet, incredibly-preserved town called Josselin.
  10. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Hope you all had a great summer. We did. Incredibly, given I was the person started the thread with all our nippers as toddlers... this was our son's last summer before uni . Coulda been stressful waiting for results so we kept ourself busy. Hence we've been to Deal, in Kent, then Britanny, then Scotland! I can't upload pix for some reason.. so will be back once it's working again. Deal was great because we could take poochy. Even though she was canina non grata. Sorry we didn't bump into Bartleby! This is an amazing pub called The Jackdaw, a regular for Battle of Britain pilots, and also a setting for the film, where Susannah York is wearing WAF dress and perfect 1960s make-up. The village is picture postcard perfect.
  11. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    ohhh....nice..... 10 days to go right? And it's a simple auction. Does anyone have an account on that site?
  12. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Ive wanted a duck triple pleat for years but missed it the only time it was on offer. I am lucky enough to have the duck pullover, though, and I suspect my natural indigo 1880s will last me a decade (by which time they might show some fading).
  13. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    LVC was always a flagship range to stress the company's heritage. And they've done a lot of great items; many of which have been copied by Japanese boutique brands. But I suspect right now the company is focused on profits, simplifying supply chains, and the big picture of the brand worldwide, given the recent stock flotation.
  14. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I would think it's a bad move for the brand if they do that for all the models.
  15. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    do they name it V2? Do we think the new range is all made in Bulgaria? Post us a link please! I would think it's pretty much impossible to see differences in the fabric raw, we'd need to see how it ages to really understand it.
  16. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    On the bright side, Kaihara tended to do most of the old LVC Japan fabrics which were well-loved. But as their 505 fabric shows, it was very close to the Cone repros, without exaggerated slubs etc.
  17. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Have they said that on the record? It's what they told me five years ago was the back up plan. Still sad though.
  18. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    that last batch in particular are drop-dead gorgeous!
  19. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Running repairs. Stitched the bottoms of the pockets too, but one of them has ripped again.
  20. Paul T

    Sugar Cane Denim

    I think I need to find that audio with Mr Kawai and we can find someone who'll check the translation?
  21. Paul T

    Sugar Cane Denim

    SK was gesticulating as he showed how the yarn was made, I did get the sense that the sugar content - which I agree is likely fibre strands or chunks - was on the inside, and cotton on the outside of the yarns (nothing to do with a spray). The translation, by Teiji Kakutani, was live, so more room for error. I don't think I used it in any articles, as I sent tricky quotes back for verification and didn't do so with this. http://loomstate.blogspot.com/search/label/Nihon Menpu
  22. Paul T

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Yikes, that sounds a bit hardcore but I guess the man who makes the denim would know? There could well be errors in translation, he might have said powder when he really means strands, of course. Also he's only weaving the yarn, not making it. But marketing speak is marketing speak.
  23. Paul T

    Sugar Cane Denim

    There's no sugar cane in the yarn according to Mr Kawai at Nihon Menpu, who makes the fabric, there are apparently small sugar granules. This Q&A was translated by NM's export director. PT: Tell me about the Sugar Cane yarn. Whose ideas was it? SK: "it's just starting in Sugar Cane .. the making small... in the fabric and inside is sugar broken into sugar power, on the inside, so inside of the yarn .. so a more soft yarn." Whose idea was that? SK: "Maybe it was from the Sugar Cane people." For the key fabrics with that lovely streaky combined natural/synthetic indigo, the synthetic is unspec'd, natural is usually a mix, 80% Indian, 20% Japanese.
  24. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Washed by hand and rinsed in the machine, this time.
  25. Paul T

    Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    I've never used a dryer on any of my jeans, ever. These jeans seem to get lots of marbling and twisting with conventional washing. As they're quite contrasty I wash and spin mine right way round, which exacerbates the marbling and texture.