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Paul T

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Everything posted by Paul T

  1. THis is a subject that I know lildavid must be starting to investigate - cheep is there already.Some will suggest it's sad that if you're a denim nerd you plan to inflict it on your kids - I say, why not start em early! SO, if you've trakced down any good denim for nippers, post em here. I'll update with a few items later, but thought I'd post this thread now because H&M have the best kids' denim i've seen, period, when you consider the price. I've seen them at the H&M store on Oford St, London, plus the new store in the old Dickes & Jpones on Regent St. Oxford St had only larger sized, 150cm plus; Regent St still has quite a few smaller sizes, mostly around the 105cm size, for 2 or 3 year olds. They're limited edition and have apparently been out three weeks, so grab them now. WHy so good? Mostly the price: £15, less than the price of getting yer jeans shortened in SoHo. They come in a nifty bag, proclaiming that they're made of organic cotton: (Don't ask me why I shot an off-white bag on an off-white background, I can't answer that). The jeans themselves are a slim but not skinny fit. The detailing is beautiful, chainstitched hems, blank Wranger-style rivets on one corner of the back pockets, conventional rivets elsewhere, and a leather belt patch. The denim is a lovely colour, slightly greencast. Somewhere I have shots of Sammies, Levi's and Warnglers for kids, I;ll post em later, but do update with yours... and if you don't have kids, remember that pint-sized vintage is only a fraction of the price of the adult stuff!
  2. Paul T

    Levi's 501 - a visual guide

    Levi's 501 - a geek's guide This visual glossary is based on LVC models. For original denim photos, buy a book! LVC codes All early LVC have factory codes on the fly button. I believe the correct coding is: 555 (Valencia St), 554 (San Antonio), 822, u nknown Levi's factory used around 2001. 643 usually signifies a non-Levi's factory in the US - one such factory is Taylor Togs in North Carolina (conveniently near Cone), which prodocued LVC up to spring 2008. LVC have since moved production, reportedly to Caitac Garment Processing: these jeans bear the 233M stamp. Sizing: New sizing advice. Best practice to to check ACTUAL measurement and size up by one inch - this will provide best fit, allowing for moderate stretching.For the 1920s 201, and 1955 501, buy your actual waist size, as measured (these are generously cut). For the earlier jeans - 1890 - 1936 - you can buy actual size, or size up by one or two inches (again going by measured size, not the size on the tag) according to taste. Acutal Dimensions Here is a partial list of dimensions for LVC, spring 2009 production. Note these are different sizing from previous years, , in general larger. Use this list as a guide, only if your retailer won't confirm the actual size Measurements are for jean tagged 32W 32L. W= waist, R=Rise, L=leg length, Lo=leg opening (measured across hem) S=seat (width just below the front pockets), Th=thigh width 7 inches below the crotch. 1901 501 W34, R13, L31.5, Lo8.75, St22.25, TH10.5 1922 201 W34, R11.5, L 32.5, Lo10, St20.5, Th11.25 1927 501 W35, R13, L32.5, Lo9.5, St 21, Th11 1933 501 W33, R12.5, L31 , Lo 9.25,St20.5 , Th 10.75 1937 501 W32.5,R13, L31.75, Lo9, St 20, Th10.125 1944 501 W35, R13, L32, Lo 8.75, St 20.25,Th10 1947 501 W32, R12, L32, Lo8.5, St20.25, Th10 1955 501 W35, R12, L31, Lo8.5, St20.75, Th10.75 '54 501Z W32, R11, L33.5, Lo7, St20.25, Th10 1966 501 W32, R11.5, L32 , Lo8.25 , St21.75, Th10.75 1978 501 W35, R11, L32, Lo8, St21, Th10.5 1983 501 W34, R12, L31.75, Lo9 , St20.75, Th10.25 501 - the main variants 1873 Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patent riveted jeans. The first Levis' come in a cotton duck fabric (one example has survived in an orange-brown, and has since been repro'd) and in blue denim. The denim finish soon proves more popular. There are TWO early models of Levi's jeans. It's probable they came out around the same time, although records are limited and no one is certain. These two jeans are generally known as the 'XX' - the forerunner of the 501 - and the 'Nevada', which has more of a workwear look. 'Nevada' is not an official name - rather, it's what Levi's people call this model, after one found in the Nevada desert and purchased by Levi's for $42,000. Early jeans have one back pocket and a selvage waistband. These jeans were originally made of denim dyed with natural indigo, with a selvage that featured a simple white stripe at the edge (no red line). Reissues are mostly made in synthetic indigo denim, from Kurabo, Japan. XX Features: Also been termed the 'Oldest Oldest by LVC'. Pockets: 4 (one back pocket). Watchpocket sits below the waistband, and is less deep than later models. Rivets: early, squarish design (flat-topped) with "Pat May 1873 LS&Co SF" legend. Belt Patch; early "Levi Strauss & Co" version in a Victorian serif face, size written in by hand. On originals I've seen, the patch is on the right. The LVC patch is in the middle, though. Arcuates; vary widely on originals, hand done. Cut of LVC version: anti fit, baggy in the seat, high rise, straight legs, which are reasonably wide. I haven't worn soaked versions of this model, but suspect the best wearing option is to buy your actual size waist and cold-wash them. If you size up, as normal, they will sit lower on your thighs. Denim: Plain blue selvage. LVC repros are usually 9oz; most have been made with synthetic indigo denim from Kurabo. Oldest Oldest reissue from 2008 Oldest oldest reissue. Note the single line of stitching at the yoke, which seems to have been a feature of all pre-1880s Levi's The Oldest Oldest is also available in a nice (but pricey) distressed finish, 'Precious Grime]. Nevada Features: This model has been termed the Nevada for some LVC reissues, while the 'Knappave' seems to be based on a different sample of the same jean. Both date from around 1880. Pockets: 4 (one back pocket), wide hem on back pocket, plus pliers pocket on 'Nevada' version. Raised watchpocket overlaps waistband on Nevada/Knappave, and bottom sits clear of main pocket. Rivets: early, squarish design (flat-topped) with "Pat May 1873 LS&Co SF" legend. Belt Patch; early "Levi Strauss & Co" version in a Victorian serif face, size written in by hand, placed in centre, between cinch, . Arcuates; vary widely on originals, hand done. Cut of LVC version: anti fit, baggy in the seat, high rise, straight legs, which are reasonably wide. I believe that, like other other early versions, the raw versions tend to be made slightly oversize, but there have been many different versions of circa 1880 repros, hence you might expect model variation. Most versions are oversize, so if you don't have a chance to try them on first, best option will be to buy actual waist size. If they're too snug, cold-wash only. Denim: Generally, as for the XX. There was a lovely reissue of the Nevada around 2001, shown below, which used natural indigo fabric, and distressing by Bart Sights. If anyone has any more photos of the Nevada, or Knappave, please send me them. Note the high watchpocket - which is clear of the main pocket - and the selvage waistband. These were some of LVC's nicest reissues, and have fetched $2000 on eBay. They have been reissued in raw form, around 2008. Sugarcane do a nice homage to these jeans, the Edo Ai 40501 in a combination natural/synthetic denim, and Edwin too have launched their own similar distressed jean. The 'First Blue Jean or '1873' reissue In 2001, and 2008, LVC introduced a reissue made of attractive, streaky, natural indigo denim from Kurabo. Although they supposedly resemble an 1873 model, I believe they're inaccurate - they should have, for instance, a single line of stitching at the yoke. Some of them also feature a patch which mentions a patent revision in 1875. These natural indigo jeans have retailed between £195 and £300. For that price, I'd prefer a more painstaking replica. I believe you'll have to wear this fabric very hard to get good fading, and suggest you buy actual size. This is the current version, 2008 season: This is a version from around 2001 - mine were oversized, I boil-washed to try and shrink them, and they came out horribly bland. 1886 By now, familiar features such as the two horse patch have appeared; it's placed on the right hand side of the jeans. There is no definitive date for when the patch moved to the right of the jeans; the design changed, according to Levi's records, in 1886 (there is only limited information, because most of Levi's records were lostin the fire following the 1906 earthquake). There is still one back pocket, making these '4 pocket' jeans. Levi's jeans are already being copied fairly widely, and by 1900 or so rival makers include Special, Stronghold and Can't Bust Em, all of which look pretty similar - many of them have Levi's-style arcuates, too. Features: Pockets:4 (one back pocket), back pocket assumes the shape we all know. Watch pocket moves down, just below the waistband, bottom inside pocket, but is higher than later jeans. Rivets: Read " LS&Co SF". These remain flat-topped, giving a more agricultural look... Belt Patch: 2 horse patch in leather, no size printed on Arcuates; vary widely on originals, hand done. Cut of LVC version: broadly similar to 1873 version. Cut of LVC version: LVC repros of 1880 and 1890 jeans tend to be oversized. A 34W might actually measure 35. This will shrink to around 33. But being loose fitting, they will not stretch a huge amount. Best guess, is that your 34W jean will measure 33 when washed. Shape of jeans is similar to 1880s versions. You can probably get away with wearing these actual waist size. 1890 jeans from '06 season Note the flat-topped rivets, the 2-horse patch - which appeared in 1886, and at this point doesn't have the size printed on. The arcuate is a different shape from the 1901 version, with the two lines hand-done, and placed quite close together (although this varies on originals) and the single pocket is quite small with a distinctive, more pointed shape.
  3. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    So, the good news: my new job as a teacher has been every bit as stressful as you'd think, battling with unreliable public transport requiring a hike over Blackheath every day, and while every day is pretty inspiring I collapse in an exhausted heap at the end and count the days until my next holiday. So my somewhat undersized jeans fit pretty much perfectly, with - Volvo - no muffin top. Bad news: no time for photos and a 3-day a week jeans regime. But here we are. Love to all.
  4. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Looking great folks. Definitely getting a period look on the denim now it's fading in.
  5. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Ah, the last of the Cone. I actually have a pair of cut-offs in that fabric, from a factory fault, it's beautiful, and takes lots of washing. lovely pockets on those pairs, too, although some of those imperfections ain't too subtle.
  6. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Looking amazing, sir!
  7. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Incidentally, this was very tight while drying. But now is relatively slack. So the fabric does have a good amount of give (this was a long-ish cold-ish soak only).
  8. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Definitely not posting a fit pic now.
  9. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Just got mine. 31 post wash measures a not generous 31 pre wash. There does seem to be room in the thighs and seat so I should be able to work with this, I figure they'll be an inch smaller in the waist than my LVC. Time to get out the ply and jigsaw. My pocket bags are lovely, olive green and hickory stripe. My number seems to have changed from #14 to #125, sadly. Gone back to ancient habits, warm soak. Given London's weather, who knows when they will be dry.
  10. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Sept 13 sounds right to me @robroy I'm certain your jeans [with the mis-mismatched salvage] are legit. R code is normal from 2004 or so. I think it's a simple operator error at Cone, dropping the wrong spool in (perhaps it's possible they used a wrong bit of fabric at the factory in which case you'd see different textures from each side of the leg). THey don't have any of the normal fake tell-tales. @andyrcii sorry if it looked as if my post was directed at you. Nice jeans. All 505 fabric (sanforized) is Kaihara.
  11. Paul T

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    there was a big fanfare when the 701 came out in 36/7, features in Vogue, with lovely illustrations. I didn't know that the 401 was the same jean, I thought it was a more budget model but it's a long time since I've looked at them. The idea of a front fly was regarded as very edgy. So a lot of contemporary jeans including Lee had a zip up the side, presumably to make it harder to fornicate. Lots of sex involved, as the 701 became the obligatory wear for heading to a dude ranch in Nevada where you could have fun while waiting out your divorce. So very racy - and also the first time jeans really became a fashion item. The original 701s do look great, you could still buy 50s examples in the 2000s for less than today's repro prices and wear them, as they're not as collectable as the 501, and the cut still looked fantastic. They might well have been Levi's first Sanforised jeans too. There are a few items from the Western catalogues of the time that aren't fully documented in the regular cagtalogues (might have been sold through a different wholesaling channel) so there's a delicious mystery about them.
  12. Paul T

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    Don't understand this post. Levi's released the 701 Lady Levi's, Sanforized, buckle back, pink selvage, around 1937 iirc. There was also a budget model, the 401, likewise buckle back.
  13. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    yay, great jeans, as we recently discussed, nice catch! Are they NWT and were therefore rinsed? My recollection is that all the repros were, but could be wrong.
  14. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Hmmm. I am not sure how much mine shrank from raw to soak. But it was from soak to machine wash that there seemed to be a big change. It was dirty and folks on here told me off and to wash it properly. I don't like it quite as much now, although the fade is good. It's synthetic indigo. If you do decide to keep I reckon cold handwash only is the way. The natural indigo 1880s are actually quite dark and purple in comparison. They're showing a bit of crocking already after only a couple of months.
  15. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    I've advised buyers that boots were too small, using measurements, they bought them anyway, and returned as too small. I'm too paranoid about neg feedback to do otherwise. So usually I have standard wording saying no questions asked returns, but they pay postage both ways, and that normally provides sufficient disincentive for them to return. It's the loss pf postal costs rather than having to re-list that's a pain
  16. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Yes. Mine shrank quite a lot for a 30 wash compared to initial soak. In length and width.
  17. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    It's a plane... being flown by cats. Cats.
  18. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    that's a great link, Maynard, thanks! There are other catalogues or links that mention it having recycled fibre. No-one knows who would have produced the fabric first time around. Fascinating to see the Lot 225 black denim pants mentioned, too, I can't remember seeing that before.
  19. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    The 333 are fantastic jeans. The repro was lovely. The original were indeed a budget range, with fabric that used recycled yarns. LVC did the same for this range, commissioned IIRC from a little mill in Portugal, bits of recycled fibre in the thread. (Not sure if the mill only span the yarns or loomed the fabric as well). It was insane attention to detail for jeans that nobody knew anything about. I am sure they sold zilch. Patches were like the 201 range but with green type. I think somewhere on this thread I posted photos of the vintage pair in Japan that inspired the reissue. There was a remainder sale at their showroom where they had a few pairs but none in my size, sadly. But then again, I have so many pairs of early jeans that look like they're starting to break in after 10 years of wear. At some point in my life I need to wear in my 201, but that will probably be when I get to a care home etc. My recollection is that the 333 were produced before, or in the early stages of, the move to Amsterdam. That was when our own Cotton Duck joined the company. RIght after that point Levi's decided LVC had to produce profits, before that it was partly about prestige. So prices went up and there were fewer quirky items (although, to be fair, items like the natural indigo 1880s could surely never have turned a chunky profit if you factor in the design time etc etc etc).
  20. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    those are nice. Are they LVC or the capitall E series? Do show us the tags and 2-horse label if you can. I like what looks like a loom fault on your left knee.
  21. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Levi's on a corporate level have been pretty good about spreading Jacob Davis's name. He's on corporate histories and is always ackonlwedged as the inventor. He became the factory foreman. His grandson launched the Ben Davis company and, again, they stayed pretty close. Obvs he didn't get his name on the company, but I guess that's life. He only knew Levi distantly, the fact they were both European Jews likely made him think Levi was trustworthy. In the letter suggesting they team up he tells Levi not to send him his credit balance for cloth, to keep it as he'll need more later.
  22. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    This is a good question. My impression is that some manufacturers have simply gone for heavier fabric as 'more' is better. In much the same way that Samurai and others ramped up the slubbiness and crocking of their denim to make it feel 'more' authentic. There is definitely a 'thing' about 14 oz being better, as that was a selling point for Lee's (Sanforized) denim. But as we can see, there's also genuine debate about whther some Levi's fabric might have been heavier at some time.
  23. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    That is nice (the second not the first). I'm a big fan of the slightly surreal early camos, especially the dazzle and disruptive ones with the more primary colours. Ahem, I read a book on the history of camouflage, and in the early days the War Office or whoever it was went right out an hired a bunch of groovy Vorticist and other state of the art painters. I have a feeling the crazy WW1 german lozenge pattern was also designed by some artist who convinced the right bureaucrat.
  24. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    For reference: random is random and I will live with whatever I get. Just putting my opinion out there, my testicles should be fine. Sorry Volvo, I wasn't moaning - just arguing! I have a neighbour who has a fucking Waffen SS pattern winter jacket, just don't swap it for that even if it is contemporaneous. But I can't call him on it, can I, because even recognising the pattern incriminates me.
  25. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    NO! These are 40s jeans not 60s ones. I don't want my left testicle to be dressed like someone playing CoD.
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