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Paul T

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Paul T last won the day on October 20 2019

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  1. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Incidentally, this was very tight while drying. But now is relatively slack. So the fabric does have a good amount of give (this was a long-ish cold-ish soak only).
  2. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Definitely not posting a fit pic now.
  3. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    Just got mine. 31 post wash measures a not generous 31 pre wash. There does seem to be room in the thighs and seat so I should be able to work with this, I figure they'll be an inch smaller in the waist than my LVC. Time to get out the ply and jigsaw. My pocket bags are lovely, olive green and hickory stripe. My number seems to have changed from #14 to #125, sadly. Gone back to ancient habits, warm soak. Given London's weather, who knows when they will be dry.
  4. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Sept 13 sounds right to me @robroy I'm certain your jeans [with the mis-mismatched salvage] are legit. R code is normal from 2004 or so. I think it's a simple operator error at Cone, dropping the wrong spool in (perhaps it's possible they used a wrong bit of fabric at the factory in which case you'd see different textures from each side of the leg). THey don't have any of the normal fake tell-tales. @andyrcii sorry if it looked as if my post was directed at you. Nice jeans. All 505 fabric (sanforized) is Kaihara.
  5. Paul T

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    there was a big fanfare when the 701 came out in 36/7, features in Vogue, with lovely illustrations. I didn't know that the 401 was the same jean, I thought it was a more budget model but it's a long time since I've looked at them. The idea of a front fly was regarded as very edgy. So a lot of contemporary jeans including Lee had a zip up the side, presumably to make it harder to fornicate. Lots of sex involved, as the 701 became the obligatory wear for heading to a dude ranch in Nevada where you could have fun while waiting out your divorce. So very racy - and also the first time jeans really became a fashion item. The original 701s do look great, you could still buy 50s examples in the 2000s for less than today's repro prices and wear them, as they're not as collectable as the 501, and the cut still looked fantastic. They might well have been Levi's first Sanforised jeans too. There are a few items from the Western catalogues of the time that aren't fully documented in the regular cagtalogues (might have been sold through a different wholesaling channel) so there's a delicious mystery about them.
  6. Paul T

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    Don't understand this post. Levi's released the 701 Lady Levi's, Sanforized, buckle back, pink selvage, around 1937 iirc. There was also a budget model, the 401, likewise buckle back.
  7. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    yay, great jeans, as we recently discussed, nice catch! Are they NWT and were therefore rinsed? My recollection is that all the repros were, but could be wrong.
  8. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Hmmm. I am not sure how much mine shrank from raw to soak. But it was from soak to machine wash that there seemed to be a big change. It was dirty and folks on here told me off and to wash it properly. I don't like it quite as much now, although the fade is good. It's synthetic indigo. If you do decide to keep I reckon cold handwash only is the way. The natural indigo 1880s are actually quite dark and purple in comparison. They're showing a bit of crocking already after only a couple of months.
  9. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    I've advised buyers that boots were too small, using measurements, they bought them anyway, and returned as too small. I'm too paranoid about neg feedback to do otherwise. So usually I have standard wording saying no questions asked returns, but they pay postage both ways, and that normally provides sufficient disincentive for them to return. It's the loss pf postal costs rather than having to re-list that's a pain
  10. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Yes. Mine shrank quite a lot for a 30 wash compared to initial soak. In length and width.
  11. Paul T

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    It's a plane... being flown by cats. Cats.
  12. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    that's a great link, Maynard, thanks! There are other catalogues or links that mention it having recycled fibre. No-one knows who would have produced the fabric first time around. Fascinating to see the Lot 225 black denim pants mentioned, too, I can't remember seeing that before.
  13. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    The 333 are fantastic jeans. The repro was lovely. The original were indeed a budget range, with fabric that used recycled yarns. LVC did the same for this range, commissioned IIRC from a little mill in Portugal, bits of recycled fibre in the thread. (Not sure if the mill only span the yarns or loomed the fabric as well). It was insane attention to detail for jeans that nobody knew anything about. I am sure they sold zilch. Patches were like the 201 range but with green type. I think somewhere on this thread I posted photos of the vintage pair in Japan that inspired the reissue. There was a remainder sale at their showroom where they had a few pairs but none in my size, sadly. But then again, I have so many pairs of early jeans that look like they're starting to break in after 10 years of wear. At some point in my life I need to wear in my 201, but that will probably be when I get to a care home etc. My recollection is that the 333 were produced before, or in the early stages of, the move to Amsterdam. That was when our own Cotton Duck joined the company. RIght after that point Levi's decided LVC had to produce profits, before that it was partly about prestige. So prices went up and there were fewer quirky items (although, to be fair, items like the natural indigo 1880s could surely never have turned a chunky profit if you factor in the design time etc etc etc).
  14. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    those are nice. Are they LVC or the capitall E series? Do show us the tags and 2-horse label if you can. I like what looks like a loom fault on your left knee.
  15. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Levi's on a corporate level have been pretty good about spreading Jacob Davis's name. He's on corporate histories and is always ackonlwedged as the inventor. He became the factory foreman. His grandson launched the Ben Davis company and, again, they stayed pretty close. Obvs he didn't get his name on the company, but I guess that's life. He only knew Levi distantly, the fact they were both European Jews likely made him think Levi was trustworthy. In the letter suggesting they team up he tells Levi not to send him his credit balance for cloth, to keep it as he'll need more later.
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