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Paul T

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Paul T last won the day on February 6

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  1. Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    I generally practise what Roy preaches. I think with raw denim, from its start, one was generally instructed to soak the jeans not wash them - partly because washing was simply more trouble. I have done what Roy suggests perhaps 60% of the time, because it feels significantly different: much crisper, and that's a feel I really like for new jeans. It's also thought that, with more starch and resins present, the jeans don't absorb as much dirt. You are likely to get more broken threads in the honeycombs though. I know Roy really likes the look of new denim (as do I) and isn't in a hurry for it to wear in. So his suggestion is pretty consistent with that. I personally haven't experienced any real drawbacks; wear lines definitely don't move, and the extra shrinkage tends to be minimal for a 30 or 40 degree wash. I washed my TCB 20s in the machine for max shrinkage at the start, but I think on the reboot, I'll take the ROy approach, as i prefer the feel - also, your damn turn-ups stay in place with more starch and sizeing in the jeans! OVerall, I don't think either approach gives a significantly different result down the line; it's more about how you want your jeans to feel in the first few months.
  2. Dawson Denim

    You can also click "other media" at the bottom of the post, them simply paste in the URL, and the system adds the tags for you. Nice pix! I really like Dawson now that they're introducing more nautical items, feels truer to their place of origin somehow.
  3. Land of the Lowrising Sun

    The Mickey Spillane pic is exactly the look of 50s Levi's that it seems hard to replicate. Obviously some of it is his build but that generous top block, without baggy thighs, is a timeless look. Perfect length, too.
  4. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Type 1 will be Cone unless it's Japanese LVC. Type 3 only is Kaihara, as is the 505 etc. That's such a good question and I don't really know the answer. I did ask a designer some time back and he told me they'd been forced to go with polycore, rather like Roy, for reliability - it takes longer to stitch all cotton. And, actually, some of it fades in nicely. But some doesn't. Stitching on that deadstock pair simply looks nicer and I can't work out why - although the roughness is a part of it. Going forward, if LVC are moving to mostly Kaihara denim, I wonder if they'll do something about these kinds of issues, for instance rayon tags. If the denim is bought in, and they're made under contract, they will need some USP. Otherwise they might as well get them sewn in Japan again. Or they could hire Roy Slaper?
  5. Land of the Lowrising Sun

    It's a fascinating topic. After doing some work for Levi's I had a pair of Lot One made for me. We tried on three different rises, what they called high, medium and low. I wanted a 60s carrot-shaped vibe, so wanted a high rise. yet looking in the mirror, the medium looked better, so I went for that. Long story short, I really don't like the feel. Higher rise would have been better What rise works seems to vary so much with what else you're wearing, whether they're a bit more worn and softer, therefore riding lower. I think Roy is probably the one person that seems to get that higher rise perfect. Haven't measured it but my current pair feel higher than TCB50s, and distinctly higher than SDA103, Full Count, etc etc etc, and look much better for it. But yes, that original high rise is so distinctive. When you watch Jack Nicholson in One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest, you see those jeans are distinctly longer in the top block, it's a really distinctive look and I don't think many repros quite capture that. Sadly there aren't any stills that quite capture the look.
  6. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    the stitching colour is so much nice on those than the present ones.! Oh, I forgot to mention that my story on natural indigo being farmed again in the US, inspired by the 1880s, is out now in Wallpaper, with pix by SuFu dude Farhad Samari.
  7. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Hmmm. Had to make some tough decisions in the T household. Hence for sale in the usual place... 10% off for SuFu-ers! These early Capital E and LVC are fascinating, I wish they were better documented. This pair has so many differences from later ones. Maybe it's only me that really cares but they are the last flowering of a century of history.
  8. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    I was especially thinking of the Yiddish sense which means ""someone to admire and emulate, someone of noble character. The key to being 'a real mensch' is nothing less than character, rectitude, dignity, a sense of what is right, responsible, decorous."[2] The term is used as a high compliment, implying the rarity and value of that individual's qualities.
  9. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Volvo, thanks for going yet another extra mile for us. What's Italian for mensch?
  10. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    0200 probably means February 2000. The model name was the 125, as in a 125 year old jean, repro of the 1875 version. I had a similar pair in raw.
  11. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    ...sent with a little Victorian lead cat that I didn't have time to photograph....
  12. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    822 is an unknown Levi's factory, used around 2001.
  13. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    On their way home... I'd be switching to my LVC 1880s natural indigo if it weren't brass monkey weather here.
  14. Roy. (expurgated edition)

    I'm having a clear out, and trying to decide what goes. I'm going to be brutal, as I have an overfull denim box and an expensvie guitar restoration scheduled. What do folks think I can get (reasonably) for these? Unworn boxers included. I know Dr Heech sold his pair for quite a lot, but as I recall they were hardly worn. Damn, weren't these fantastic jeans? They probably have the best fades of anything I've owned in the last 20 years. The duck detailing is phenomenal, and this too is a trademark Cone fabric. My first ever Roy item was a duck bag he made for Cone, before he set up his operation.
  15. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Finally, the fabric. First photo is the Cone 55, left, and TCB on right. You can see long lines of repetitive slub on the TCB. It's this that gives it a very gritty, grainy look. Next, for comparison, is the LVC vs a late 60s original. You can see how little slub there is on the 60s jeans - which were probably the slubbiest postwar jeans, due to the Magnadraft effect. It's sad and rather poignant to note this now, but Cone were always swimming against the tide, reproducing a fabric very similar to the original, when so much Japanese fabric is far more slubby than vintage Levi's, and preferred by many for this reason. I like them both for different reasons (although my Roy contest denim is obviously nicer than either of them!) .