Paul T

Now I'm a weekend wearer I have no idea how much wear is on my contest S40s. But we had a rare, dry windy day in London so they got a machine wash. I always wash my TCB inside out now as I seem to get marbling - there's a little here. Looking forward to more washes down the line so I get a more of those blue mid tones.

The period the Dr is discussing is pretty much also the one at which Levi's decreed that LVC, rather than being a flagship line to celebrate its legacy, should turn a profit. At that point the price nearly doubled and nearly everyone knew that this was a death-knell. For me there was still a lot of love put in, especially in on the fabric side by the people at Cone, and some odd amazing stuff - for instance the 333, an obscure design with a crazy custom yarn featuring recycled cotton like the original budget series - but the die was cast from that point.

I'm not in touch with LVC people any more but would bet that, whatever happens, Levi's Japan will continue with vintage repros as they did before the establishment of LVC

If we're talking all Levi's not ust LVC - up to 2001 or so ALL the 501 raw denim was exclusively Cone. Don't know if from White Oak but I believe it was, most of it ring/OE on wide looms. THey expanded their supply from other manufacturers/plants and reduced purchases from Cone around the time Phil Marineau made massive cuts, closed Valencia St, and got a $12m bonus . At one point, up to the late 80s and possibly later literally all 501 fabric was Cone, including the jeans made overseas (in Scotland, for instance). The 1980s wide loom denim, ring/OE, was developed by Cone. I think as they moved to preshrunk etc they might have drawn in other manufacturers although, again, even fabrics like the two types of black denim used in 501 were Cone.

That's exactly right. It was Cone denim. I actually saw the Capital E being made when I visited Valencia st in 1992. I'm hugely annoyed with myself for not taking photos - and also for winding up the factory foreman by asking why this was a generic and not an accurate replica. And I was wearing the Lee Riders reissue. I could've found out useful stuff but didn't. the earlier Levi's Japan reissues used Kaihara. I'm hugely annoyed with myself because I recently found the email from the Levi's Japan employee with the details and I didn't file it somewhere safe. Urgh.

Someone from this board - @CrashTestBrummie ? - sourced these early Yamane Evisu for my nipper. They were a bit big for him, so they went in the denim box and by the time I remembered them he was too big for them . So I'd like to pass them on to someone from this board for the purchase price, let's say £15 donation to youngminds plus postage. Make me an offer if that's too much ££££. 25 waist, 30 leg. My guess is they've been soaked once and that's pretty much it. Classic early hairy evis denim. I don't check my PMs that often so feel free to email me.

Someone from this board - @CrashTestBrummie ? - sourced these early Yamane Evisu for my nipper. They were a bit big for him, so they went in the denim box and by the time I remembered them he was too big for them . So I'd like to pass them on to someone from this board for the purchase price, let's say £15 donation to youngminds plus postage. Make me an offer if that's too much ££££. 25 waist, 30 leg. My guess is they've been soaked once and that's pretty much it. Classic early hairy evis denim. I don't check my PMs that often so feel free to email me. Update: Jeans headed for B_F Jr. Thanks for the donation ! We expect an update on this thread within the next 10 years please.

INteresting that the natural indigo - which is often described as more green - is way redder. Natural indigo 1880s n the left, Kurabo 1890s in the right. The Kurabo are from 2005 I think. I like Kurabo's interpretation too. the micro contrast isn't there, and it doesn't really crock, but I like the area fades and the dark green tinge. However, they were way harder work; hand wash only and months between washes, the jeans on the right probably had 6 months more work than the jeans on the left. No leg twist on the Kurabo fabric, loads on the Cone. I think Kurabo 1880s/1890s has always been pretty much the same fabric, so the Kurabo 3-pleat will fade like the jeans on the right. When I went through my retained stash, I found the 1901, which are different again - less green, more contrast. And I look forward to getting out my Kurabo 201 in a few years. The slowest faders I've ever owned and definitely an LVC classic

This 3-pleat is actually the Cone version. Should've said. It was quite a big deal as they did a 1880s denim for both the jacket and pants. Then these pants are the final Cone iteration of the early denim, in natural indigo. BTW, I checked my old photos of the Kurabo 3-pleat and that had a single-piece back. I have a pair of Kurabo 1890s, plus natural indigo 20s 201 and they're all very different. Kurabo way more green and crocks way less so you get area fading (over the pockets) but no whiskers. If I get a chance I'll pull them out and do a comparison, they've probably each had three summer between them. Yes, this light denim is lovely for the summer.

Hand-washed my 3-pleat and 1880s natural indigo. Compared to my old Kurabo versions, I've washed both of these quite a lot. In both cases, tbh, they look better when they're dirty but I got dirt-shamed on this board and the shame has lingered...

Lots of shrinking and lots of leg twist. It's similar, I think, to the yarns of the Cone three-pleat jacket with the natural indigo from Tennessee. (Edit: My story implies it's a different design from the jacket). The jacket is wonderful too. The natural indigo, if aynthing, seems to crock more than the jacket with synthetic indigo, which is the reverse of what we 'd generally expect. Need to wash the jacket and check on the buttons and post update. Yes, those final Cone fabrics were wonderful. I'm so sad they've gone and we've lost all that knowledge. Perhaps it is Levi's fault, as they stopped using Cone for all 501, as they did at one time... but Cone people always told me that LVC were their biggest supporters and had always been flexible and helpful.

Whoo-hoo! Summer is here, so it's away with the 40s TCB, and on with my 1880s natural indigo. I actually can't remember if I've hand-washed or machine washed these, but the texture is lovely. Quite a lot of crocking for natural indigo. Right at the beginning of this thread I posted my last pair of 1880s from maybe 2003, Kurabo natural indigo fabric which was, frankly, awful. These are amongst my favourite LVC ever. Much darker in the flesh than on my Sony camera.

LVC use a lot of different yarns; it's more or less a different yarn for every vintage. With Kaihara, they had already spec'd the yarns ready to go. I was told this about 15 years ago as there was always a worry that Cone would go under.

Sorry to be late to the party... with apparently shaky hands (it's getting a bit dark here). Just out of the wash. Got some serious marbling last time so these went in inside out which has evened everything out nicely. These look pretty much exactly like all my other TCB - all of which look great, so I'm happy. I have to scroll back to see who won, but for me, knowing I have at least another year's worth of wear is prize enough. Thanks to everyone involved for a great job.