Paul T

I'm editing my shed! Anybody want these for price of postage? Makes more sense if you're in the uk obvs. I'm in London. THey are, obviously, really useful for establishing what year LVC products date from. I will check in but it might be quickest to email me via trynka.com

Ah, I found a reference from page 80 here: from 2006 until at least 2009 the Turkish washed 501 used Italian denim, which I am pretty sure was Candiani, which they claimed was due to Nafta or something. They may well have used Orta afterwards because, as you've stated correctly, Levi's and Orta have partnered on quite a few projects.

I love those jeans and instinctively have always thought they were early 60s. LVC's cuts are indeed traditionally kind of stylised. Remember, pattern cutting is not a precise art, shapes will vary between sizes and some aspects, ie back pocket shapes, varied between factories so they are hitting a moving target. However, although some cuts are exaggerated (ie 201) their take on the different patterns has generally become a consensus, although quite a few brands tend to have a higher rise for their 60s models. @Maynard, I was interested by your post sayig the Turkish-made jeans used Orta Mills. Where did you hear that? I do remember enquiring, and hearing they weren't Cone, but I had the vague idea they were Italian denim (Candiani?) - but have probably mis-remembered. Did I say they were Orta?

My natural indigo 1880s were a bit grubby so I gave them a handwash. For those who haven't seen them before, this was pretty much LVC's last model and, more significantly, Cone's last new fabric, an 1880s nautral indigo repro, using indigo grown in the US. It's a bit dark and my hands are a bit shaky (hangover) but this gives something of an impression. My previous natirual indigo jeans included the early Levi's Nevada/Kurabo, the SDA, Sugarcane; this is easily the nicest fabric. Crocks quite a lot but doesn't wash out, lots of crinkling. These are close to the perfect place, so for the summer I've switched to my old 1890s single pocket pair, which are Kaihara fabric I think - nice, but the slubbing is far more regular, Cone really mastered a more random slub on what would be their last new Levi's style fabric. The other pic is the field that supplied the indigo, harvested at dawn.