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Paul T

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Paul T last won the day on October 20 2019

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  1. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    They've got the most extreme leg twist of any jeans I've owned. Sitting down now to drink my coffee the selvage is past the front line of the jeans, ie more than 45 degrees. Same with the shrinkae on length and waist, way more than the Roys. Colour's a good bit darker than this photo, which doesn't show the really extreme crinkling and little bumps, way more than anything I've seen (although these days I tend to put thru wash rather than soak). Being a slimmer fit they're maybe not as good summer jeans as the 1890s and their predecessors, the 1901. but I'm committed now...
  2. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    and post wash. Two different interpretations of an 1800s fabric, with key similarities but also big differences. The Kurabo is very green, which we associate with natural indigo. These are a bit like the 201 fabric, very hard to wear in, with very turquoise mid tones. But these have a much much finer yarn. The 1880s fabric is fascinating, as it really is natural indigo, grown in Tennessee, but is a much more red or even purple hue - like we'd associate with synthetic. It's very fluffy, crinky fabric. You'd expect this to have a similar texture to the Roy Contest loomstate, which was loomstate based on a similar yarn design, but this is fluffier and crinklier. almsot certainly some of this is down to the variations of the cotton, year on year.I love the combination of very fine yarn and very fine stitching. It's one detail that LVC get right. The stitching seems to sink right into the denim, and I lvoe the muted effect in the 1890s. if these are like the 3-pleat jacket, or my old SDA natural indigo which had a fiarly similar hue, these will be absolute bastards to wear in. So i'll see y'all in 10 years. Dr Heech won't know, but I've executed a career swerve to being a teacher. So most of the year denim is weekend only, but for the summer I'll be clad in these babies, 7 days a week.
  3. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    The smart ones probably do. But not me. So, these are the 1880s natural indigo. For me they are the last great LVC. FOr all their many faults, there was some great work going on, especially from Cone. To think someone grew the indigo, experimented with dyeing, then developed a fabric from scratch for a run of a few 100 jeans is pretty much insane. I put them in a 30 degree wash wihtout soap to shrink them down as I know, being loomstate, these will shrink a lot. At the same time I hand-washed my 1890s then shoved them in the wash with the 1880s. these are the version with Kurabo fabric. Some weird odddities, like a paint finish on the buttons, but some great features, like the very agricultraul rivets. I was alerted to these jeans on sale very early in this thread. £75. THat was probably 12 years ago or more. I have worn them every summer bar the last one, light jeans being perfect for the hot weather. After maybe 10 months of wear, they are starting to look broken-in.
  4. Paul T


    They have to be more tapered than the 50s, they're overall slimmer. But not that slim - they're less tapered than many 66 cuts including LVC I think (haven't measured). (Edit, took some stuff out for washing, LVC in a tag 32, essentially the same size, are probably an inch less at the cuffs than TCB).
  5. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Nice catch. Kurabo denim which fades slowly but subtly with a real turquoise mid-tone. (Not as slowly as the Cone, though, either type). I was looking at the chain stitch and thinking how much I like it, even though it's wrong. I need to get my 1880s natrual indigo shortened and was thinking of doing the same. Is that wrong?
  6. Paul T


    i only tried the 60s on briefly, they're pre-washed, to check they fit (which they do). I'll compare them with my Levi'sg 66 and report back. It is nice fabric, very blue once soaked, feels almost 70s. Won't be starting on them properly until the autumn, and then I'll be a three days a week denim guy so no more competitions for me Edit: I thought they used my 20s for the last shoot but it was my 50s.
  7. Paul T


    I sent this photo to a friend to make him jealous. I posted my 20s and 50s to Inoue-San purely as I needed the space and so they had a nice home. They've used the 20s for three blog entries recently so I don't feel too bad about getting a free shawl collar jacket in olive, plus a pair of 60s (not in pic).
  8. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Cone would use different cotton from different years with different weather. They would try and 'average out' the result but there will always be inconsistencies from year to year.
  9. Paul T

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    that's beautiful. I guess it's the Cone indigo duck. Cone sent me a bunch after we did the Roy contest, it's gorgeous stuff. Though you will end up with blue thighs, it crocks like crazy!!
  10. Paul T


    I spent a few days in Kurashiki, visiting Nihon Menpu, but sadly didn't visit TCB.
  11. Paul T


    How dare they shame me by having someone look much better in my jeans than I did??? I think I remember that little bit of the street, too...
  12. Paul T


    I actually thought all the contest jeans were great, I'd often look at them and think they looked better than mine. But then looking at mine in the factory they seem to look even better than I remember them! Interesting, too, how similar all my different jeans seem to end up. Those two are really similar, although when you look at the 50s close-up there's beautiful detailing where the warp has just worn away over the whisker creases. Your jeans are great, Volvo, you are the role model we're all trying to emulate. ! Stay well. x
  13. Paul T


    I've been clearing out. I sent my jeans home.
  14. Paul T

    Sprogs, nippers, bambinos: pint-sized denim

    Those all look great! @fresco those aren't my nipper's old pair, are they? They went off to Mark F in Germany IIRC.
  15. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    @spiraltoy, I remember when those came in to Cinch, they are a 1901 repro... with an 1880s leather patch! Production error. Kurabo fabric.
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