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Paul T

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Paul T last won the day on November 13 2018

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  1. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    the 505 and I suspect from others were redesigned by a SuFU stalwart from the old days.
  2. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    That sounds correct. Are those the washed pair? there was both a raw and washed in 2000, here are my old raw paid. I had a washed pair too... and somehow managed to lose them.
  3. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    That is a great guide. They did a pretty amazing job of actually sizing each pair correctly and picking out the vibe. I would resent the fella for looking so cool and handsome in every shot, were it not for the fact that the photo of him in the 1947s reveals he has a strangely warped and deformed right leg.
  4. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I mean vintage 1970s US jackets by various manufacturers, a staple of so many vintage stores. They don't go for a lot at all.
  5. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Do you guys not have jackets like that, going for $50 or $80 at the local vintage market? I gave mine, essentially identical, to the charity shop a couple of years back as I was short of shelf space for coats. To my recollection, I see these in just about every town I've ever visited.
  6. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I'm pretty sure it's a different denim, it definitely looks different in the flesh.
  7. Paul T

    Buzz Rickson

    I'm sure someone here will know more, but if we're talking about the fabric itself, there's usually an overlap; Nihon Menpu make the flagship Sugar Cane fabrics, and make many (perhaps most) of the Buzz Rickson ones too. But my impression is that either brand is made in various factories.
  8. Paul T

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    Whoa, that is delicious. Looks very like the Levi's leather Cossack, but trimmed down beautifully... looks even hipper in duck.
  9. Paul T

    Leepro Appreciation

    Looks lovely. I"d bet it is Sanforized if they state 5% shrinkage. Normal is 10%, Sanforized is supposedly 3%, and most of my Lee Sanforized, which is either Nisshinbo or Kaihara, has shrunk more than 3 per cent.
  10. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I'm probably one of the key people (or maybe just the oldest) who doesn't like the 47 denim as much as the 55. But it's only really a subtle difference and of course all the denims vary from year to year, due to variations in the cotton crop etc etc etc. On my pairs, the white of the 47 weft seems to peek through more than on, say, the 55. The warp yanrns on the 55 seem thicker. Those on the 47 are thinner, and have more slubbing. The fading on the 55 looks smoother, but has more mid-tones. It probably won't come across in pix, especially as my hands seem to have been shaking. (Maynard will hopefully be along with an appropriate, or even inappropriate, joke soon). Here's the pair together, 55 on the left, 47 on the right. Obvioulsy the 55 has been washed a few more times, but you can see it looks a little smoother. Now, this is the 55. See how it looks fairly smooth and even? In comparison, on the 47, you can see lots more white dots, with the weft showing through. Plus a few fine vertical slub lines. The diagonal twill line seems less prominent. In addition, when they're at the same kind of stage, the 55 seems to have more mid tones, it fades to a lighter blue, whereas the 47 seems to fade just to white. They look quite different a way away, as well as close up. I will try and find an older shot I took to compare the shape of each. But as you can see, the difference is pretty subtle, they have an overall similar look which is quite different to Japanese denim - apart from SDA, which to me has a very similar look indeed. Ah yes, here's the 47 vs the 55 shot. These are probably at a couple of washes each. Note how the faded bits of the 47 go white... those of the 55 go pale blue and white.
  11. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Pedro, you could be right. All the chat I had with ex employees was a year ago, maybe the situation has changed since then. I really wish it has. But I did get emails a few months ago from someone who seems to have bought some looms and in turn wants to sell them on, and was looking for buyers. If i get time, once my imminent deadlines are over, maybe I'll try and a Cone, A Year On follow-up.
  12. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Yup, those will be Cone. I think Cone is desperately short of money, so I think it's unlikely, and I did hear they were simply selling off the looms. It wouldn't make economic sense to set them up only to supply Levi's, and I think the demand from other sources would plummet, the moment you lose that made-in-USA cachet. I do hope I'm wrong, though.
  13. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Is the Cone overseas "very likely to continue to produce selvage" your own speculation? Becuase Cone overseas has entirely different looms. I've heard no reports the shuttle looms are going to another operation, and it would be very expensive to do, so as noted before, it's most likely they'll source from Kaihara, who produce most of the current Sanforized denim, and previously supplied Levi's Japan. It's complicated, though... the yarns for LVC were produced from another Cone operation I think, so it's even possible they could send the yarns to Kaihara and we'd see very little difference in the resulting fabric. I was told by someone now high-up at Levi's that Kaihara have had a back-up range of fabrics ready to go for at least a decade... because there's been a worry that Cone would collapse for 20 years now.
  14. Paul T

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    The main difference is that heavier denim has thicker, ropier yarns all around. Some of the key champions of heavy weight denim, eg Ironheart & Samurai, like heavy repetitive slub in their yarns, too. So the fades do end up looking very different. I don't like that Samurai look in general after the first couple of months because there's little variation, it's all gritty and high contrast. Whereas the slubby yarns that Full Count use look less contrasty, as the slubs are physically smaller. But of course some denim in lighter weights will have that gritty look, too, depending on the yarn design.
  15. Paul T

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Looking at the site it says the whole thing is 'imported', right? I think that's a mistake. Operative word being think. the UK site still says they're Cone.