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Paul T

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Paul T last won the day on April 11

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  1. Sugar Cane Denim

    This is the Nihon Mempu Sanforizer. I haven't checked but I have a feeling NM produce all the SC stuff, so this machine is the last rite of passage for all the Sugarcane Sanforized fabric. Note it's huge, several times bigger than any loom, by far the biggest item of kit in the entire mill. Sorry for crappy photos... my Fuji X100 was new and I hadn't quite worked out how to programme the auto ISO on it at the time. More on NM here: http://loomstate.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/naturally-beautiful-trip-to-nihon-menpu.html
  2. Sugar Cane Denim

    Sanforised means the fabric is (mostly) shrunk before being sewn. So it looks quite different to one-wash jeans. No crinkling etc. I'll try and dig out the pic of Kawai San, who makes most of the SC fabric, with his Sanforizer, it's a vintage one he's very proud of. Essentially it passes steam over/under the fabric then squeezes out the water with huge rubber rollers.
  3. Sugar Cane Denim

    Sanforised means the fabric is (mostly) shrunk before being sewn. So it looks quite different to one-wash jeans. No crinkling etc. I'll try and dig out the pic of Kawai San, who makes most of the SC fabric, with his Sanforizer, it's a vintage one he's very proud of. Essentially it passes steam over/under the fabric then squeezes out the water with huge rubber rollers.
  4. I think the main issue is that Cone only supplied LVC for well over a decade - they only gradually branched out with their own premium denim because of their contractual obligations to Levi's. Hence everyone's opinion of Cone was dominated by their opinion of LVC. For nearly every independent shop, world-wide, Japanese jeans were their main product, and it made sense to push that and belittle Levi's - this is why the whole lie about Cone selling their looms to Japanese makers spread. My impression was that at one point Levi's realised their monopoly on the fabric endangered White Oak and became more relaxed about Cone supplying other makers. But in the meantime, of course, Levi's stopped using much Cone in their volume range. I was told around 2001 that the 501 raw and rinsed jeans (mass market, not LVC) only used Cone denim, but my guess is that by 2010 they were using a lot of other suppliers, probably as part of the same cost-cutting that saw Levi's own US factories closed. Who knows the real truth, but there are people around Cone who blame Levi's for letting them down.
  5. A few are older: Nihon Menpu has perhaps six Model G, which must be pre-1930. Cone has one or two turn of the century, but nearly all at X models which were launched in the 1930s, while the bulk of NM and Kurabo loom are 50s and later. The link is correct in that the BS about Japan having "better" looms is BS but of course the question is a vague and meaningless one. Talking about the G model, the most historic loom, Shinji Kawai told me the difference was simply that they were slower, and that there was therefore less tension in the fabric. The loom-vs-loom difference is probably marginal, the difference between Cone and Japanese denim (and of course discussing the latter group as a homogenous whole is meaningless) is probably more down to yarns than looms. I find it hard discussing Cone as the whole business is so depressing! But there is perhaps one upbeat story in all of this, about hugely successful selvage fabric producers in the USA. Detailed here: http://loomstate.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/drapers-in-field.html
  6. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Looks perfect. Good times.
  7. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    fantastic pic @garden gnomes in space, congratulations! He'll be borrowing your shoes, stealing your t-shirts, and critiquing your own wardrobe in what seems like an instant.
  8. TCB

    I have the TCB and LVC 55 and love them both. The fabric on the LVC is more authentic; the TCB exaggerates the graininess of the fabric. the TCB has mostly better detailing, for instance the red rayon tag, and they nearly always get nicer puckering on the seams and traintracks. TCB has some errors in construction, the yoke is the wrong shape. Surprisingly similar fit. If I were buying right now I'd probably go for LVC, as the denim is Cone - and that will soon be gone, so it's a Last Chance Saloon jobby, end of an era etc. But they're both great. Hwe are some comparison pix. TCB on left throughout I think. I think @beautiful_FrEaK has the 710 and @engine has the 711?
  9. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    that is a nice pullover; it's been produced by US LVC and at one point there was also a Japan-only version. Does it have a tag with the model and year produced? I'm not quite certain if there are two variants in the archives - yours has a point at the bottom of the placket plus of course the arcuate etc - but there is a very similar jacket in last autumn's range, made of Cone natural indigo, same fabric as the 1880s jeans, IIRC available washed only, I think it's termed the 211. Lovely but for my money they should have done a raw version. I love all of these pullovers, my duck version has always been a fave.
  10. Warehouse

    They have a great rep, Larry the boss is hugely knowledgeable. It is true the items don't seem to have attracted that much attention outside Japan. I don't look because can't afford.
  11. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I do love that gingham three-pleat too. My notes from the time say they have one in the archive. Would love to see. I'm also fond of the duck one, although I prefer the terracotta version to the mustard. It was a good year, 2013, headed for Tangiers a week after dropping into the LVC office.
  12. TCB

    I do believe it is spin that causes marbling; turn them inside out if you want to minimise (personally, I do initial cold wash and brief spin inside out, then normal washes normal way round).
  13. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Normally stretching can help but I can't see how you'd do that with a pleated jacket. I checked and I have a bit of slack in the cinch. It's fine over a thick shirt. If I don't get any fatter I'll be fine. The buttons on this jacket are a nightmare... one is under the floorboards in a place I could only get to if I rip off the skirting boards. the replacements are from a distressed pair of Nevadas, but I only have two more. yes, it is a fantastic jacket and the fabric is gorgeous. I'm sure the 1890s pants with the same Cone fabric will be amazing too. So happy i have the 1880s natural indigo... a decade-worth of summer wear I reckon,
  14. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    Folks know I've had a clear out of stuff; leather jackets and some good jeans gone, including my 555 LVC '55. But I am using the cash to repair and re-mend. Not just my Jazzmaster; I got a new zipper fitted for my Aero-made 1933 LVC biker jacket, which I've been hoping to pair with these since I got them. woof!
  15. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I gave the three-pleat a pretty hardcore handwash. Laundry soap and scrub with brush, agitation in hot water.. then short machine rinse and spin (the green laundry soap is great for handwashing, but smells disgusting if not rinsed out, like lard). Really worried I'd ruined it, as it dried, but comes out pretty much as I hoped. Better than any of my other 1900s greencast denim, such as the 1922 201, the (Kurabo) 1890s or my natural indigo SDA. Would prefer if it looked even greener, but note that does usually happen when they get dirtier again. 3/4 off the pit-to-pit measurement (the difference between hot handwash and machine spin, vs initial soak), and the arms feel distinctly shorter. Still wearable, just.