Foxy2

Strangely enough I don't feel guilty - in fact, I wish I still had them to pull them out every once in a while and, maybe, put them on for a day once in a blue moon. the Billy-Bob model wasn't too outrageous and made a nice point in regards to anti-fit. also loved the engineered/twisted range on a conceptual level - there were at least 1 or 2 models that I should've bought...

smart move to check here. those are SC40501A mixed indigo - you are probably looking for SC40500N with 100% natural indigo... SC40501A should have at least 10% natural indigo, if not more - the rest is synthetic indigo - the seller forgot to specify that.

wow! I had the Billy-Bob model then - long gone, though...

ok - but how can you see that the coin pocket is chain stitched? just a wild guess? the right side for chain and lock stitch are identical...

the V-stitch?

ideally, that should equate to "produced domestically" - unfortunately, that's not always the case. maybe the rules will allow for a certain percentage to be produced in Mexico with yarns coming from the US or the finishing taking place in the US and you can still call the fabric US made... furthermore, most of the info seems to originate from 2015 - maybe parts need updating? Dyneema is nothing bad per se - but most likely nothing that's been woven on a narrow draper loom with proper selvedge...

those do have some interesting features and tweaks... most certainly no selvage denim (Dyneema fibres), which would explain the Cone source - non-US Cone, probably China or Mexico. they mention that the jeans are made in/near SF, but don't include the fabric in that statement. also, no hidden rivets for that special douple layered back pocket and a tapered cut.

nice - custom hardware and custom tooling for said hardware is indispensable if you want to do it right (i.e. authentic looking) and important for brand building. it is also quite expensive. it often forces the brands to amortize costs through big volumes - meaning they will use the new hardware for quite some time while the denim, the patches, the cuts, the styling and even the manufacturer will change.

yes, would be interesting to confirm. the old patches often had spelling mistakes - the more recent patches mostly corrected that - but with the special releases I would think that the embossing on the rivets and the backing of rivets and buttons might be more telling as it seem that WH had been using their custom hardware,

@501XX4EVER - Don’t forget to post pics of the hardware & the bottoms to see if we can verify the production period...

Had to dress up - the wife said so... happy Easter!

that's without additional pairs in different sizes but including some of my jackets...

here's my annual update - tried to clean up the list, but I guess I have to make a proper attempt at documenting everything later this year... Boncoura XX W32 Cinch W32 Bowery Blue Makers Type-LB Authentic Pleated Blouse S40 Type S Authentic Straight Fit W32. Type SO Authentic High Rise Straight Fit W32 Bru Na Boinne BNB13N W32 Conners Sewing Factory 1942-45 S409XXX M-WW2 San Francisco W36 1946 S409XXX M-46 2nd Half W34 1947 S409XXX M-47 W36 Dawson Denim DD01 W33 (pre-arcs) DD11 W33 – Dawson & Dry British Ltd Edition Denime #71-94-0077 W33 – Lee 101 type #178-56513 S44 – Lee type jacket Dry Bones CDP-555 W32 – Guitar Wolf Eight-G 804-XX W32 Eternal - エターナル 872 W32 877 W30 54727 W32 – Persimmon Evisu 2000 No.1 Gatagata W35 FullCount 1100-10 W32 – WWII, 08 cut, 16.5oz Australian cotton 1101NA W31 1105NA W32 1108EX W32 1108XX W32 1108PH W32 – Signet edition, wild cotton mix 1108R W33 – Rough #1331 W32 – Persimmon, xx01 or xx05 cut #1768 W33 – Sweatshirt pants #1823 W34 – Corduroy pants, 08 cut 1921 W32 1922 W31 #2858 S38 – Persimmon Iron Heart IH-634S W33 IH-634-LB W33 – Duck IH-803 W32 IH-527J size L Iron Heart/Take5 IHT510 W32 – Basically a IH-634S Kapital Century Denim Cisco 5P W32 – Persimmon TH Zipang W32 Kicking Mule Workshop 1950 AWA W32 1950 AI W31 Hickory Stripe W32 Oni - 鬼デニム ONI-0211 W32 ONI Awa Shoai W31 – BiG 1st model Ooe Yofukuten 41B-0418 W33 – 1890’s Hercules OA01XX-0614 W34 OA02XX-0714 W34 SOA03XX-0814 W34 Ooe Yofukuten/Standard & Strange SS-1702XX W34 Pure Blue Japan (PBJ) - ピュアブルージャパン AI-002 W32 XX-007 W34 – Deep indigo XX-010 W32 – Purple face #6066 Type 2 S4 – Deep indigo #6077 Type 2 S3 #6081 Type 2 S4 Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)/Lightning Magazine PBJ*Lightning W33 – Sample, maybe XX-005 or slimmer... Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)/Take5 TPJ-510 W32 – Basically a XX-005 Real McCoy/Joe McCoy Lot.001 W30 Lot.001XX W31 Lot.003 W31 S613 W32 901 W31 Roy Slapper RS00 W32 R01 W32 – Test Lot Toys McCoy/Take Lot.135D W33 – TMP1209T5 Red Cloud R424XX W32 – 1st Edition R424XX W31 – 2nd Edition R424BE W32 – 3rd/Tupan Edition S400 W31 5500-A W32 – Worker Pants R by 45RPM Nando x Nando W32 Rising Sun Jeans Blacksmith W32 Blacksmith W32 – denimBro/MoneyBag/modern version R.J.B. (Real Japan Blues) D105LTD-09SS/FW W32 D105S-10FW W31 D105-11LTD W31 D105-12SS W33 D105-13SS W31 D105-14SS W32 D105-14FW W33 D105-15SS W33 D001 W33 D001 LTD W32 – from 2012... DD001 DHM W31 D002 W33 Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ GA510 S02 (115) – Lot.04, no selvage MS0500XX W32 – Sumo series S001JP W32 S001JP-F W32 – Wool S001JP-H W32 – Bamboo S0110XJ W32 – Lot 8 S0111XJ S44 S0120XJ W33 S0130XJ W32 S0210XJ W32 S0222XJ S42 S0500XX-15TH W32 S0510AI-OGSP W32 S0510CO W32 – Corduroy Pants S0510XX-10SP W33 S0553XX S42 S0555VX-15TH S42 S101JP S42 S111XJ S44 S500OG16oz W32 S5000-KA W33 – Persimmon S5000AI-10SP W34 S5000AI-OGSP W32 S5000BKB W32 S5000GX-S W32 S5000GX-T W32 S5000VX W32 S5000VX-15TH W32 S526VX-L-15th W32 S551GX-K S40 S553GX-S S42 S553OG16oz S42 S554GX-T S40 S555GX-M S40 S711VX W32 SJ42CP W34 – Chinos Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ)/Denimio S510XX19oz DMO W32 – Denimio Contest S710XX-15ozDM W33 – Moscow Edition Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ)/Take5 Samurai Jeans * Take5 S40 – Type 2 jacket SJC Denim Yard Boss W32 Stevenson Overall 737 W31 747 W31 767 W30 Story River Denim Jeans W32 NI x NI Jeans W32 Strike Gold 5103 W32 5105 W33 Studio D'Artisan (SDA) - ステュディオ ダ ルチザン DRT-010 W33– SDA Osaka Store 10th anniversary SD-103XX W32 SD-D01-30 W32 – 30th anniversary SD-D01J-30 S40 – 30th anniversary SD-D01-35 W32 – 35th anniversary SD-D1538XX-B W33 SD-D1589 W36 – Corduroy SD-D1596 W31 SD-D1673 W33 SD-D1677 W34 SD-D4187 S42 SD-D4254S S40 – Lee type jacket SD-G-001 W33 SD-SP-06 W32 SD-SP-028 W32 – Heritage, 40th anniversary SD-SP-032 S40 – Heritage, 40th anniversary SD-X's-31 W32 – Black Pig SD-X's-36 W33 – Black & Blue SD-X's-37T W33 – Dirt Blue Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Double Volante 沖-515/OKI-515 W33 – Champloo/Double Volante 沖-515045/OKI-515045 W34 – Champloo/Double Volante 沖-815/OKI-815 W34 – Champloo/Double Volante Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Double Volante/PantsShopAvenue AVENUE-005XX W33 Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Take5 TAKE5-010 W33 SugarCane (SC) - シュガーケーン SC40100 W32 SC40105A W31 SC40200E W34 SC40285 W32 SC40285 W33 – Persimmon SC40300 W31 SC40302A-xxx – various dyes… SC40382A W33 – Persimmon, boot-cut SC40400 W32 SC40500 W31 SC40510 W32 – Begin, hard wash SC40701 W32 SC40801 W32 SugarCane & Mr.Freedom - ミスターフリーダム SC41215 Lot.64 W32 SC41293 Lot.64 US W32 – Uncle Sam/California Surplus Edition SC41336 Lot 64 OK W32 – Okinawa Edition SC41565 Lot.64 E W33 – Presidential Election Edition SC41678 Lot.64 BB W33 – BB (buckle back) Okinawa Edition SC41729 Lot.64 ORG W34 – Organic Cotton SC13434 Lot.74 Cowboy Jacket S40 – NOS Cone TCB – Two Cats Brand/Taking Care of Business 20's cut W33 – SuFu Competition 30’s jacket S42 50's cut W32 – SuFu Competition 60's cut W32 Tender Co. Type 132 W32 The Flat Head (TFH) - フラットヘッド TFH 3005-A W32 TFH 3005 W32 TFH 6002W S40 TFH 6003W S44 The Flat Head (TFH)/R.J.B./Take5 TR-010 W31 – Basically, a TFH 3009 in RJB denim Warehouse/Heller's Cafe/Lee Archive HC-035 W31 Lee x Warehouse 101 W32 – Cowboy "Triple Name" Lee x Warehouse 101B W28 – 1930 Cowboy Lot 800 C/L W32 Lot 1001 W31 – 20th anniversary Lot 1001 C/L W32 Lot 1001XX W31 – 1997 WH Flagship Store Edition Lot 1001XX W33 – Izumi Edition Lot 2001 C/L S38 DD10 W32 Lot DD-1003XX W33 – 1945 Lot DD-1003SXX W34 – 1943 Lot DD-1004XX W32 – 1922 Lot DD-1004 W34 – 1937

right, a FTA is not a joint economic zone or a customs union (like the EU) - importantly, the details of each FTA differ and in this case it means that the tariffs are lowered in steps before they eventually get removed. if your biggest add-on costs are VAT and handling fees the reduction (and eventual removal) of import tax tariffs will not mean much.

not really - import duties will still apply, no matter what & above EUR150 value you might face full or partial tax tariffs. also, handling costs might apply.

quick internet search: Das Freihandelsabkommen beseitigt nicht sämtliche Zölle zwischen Deutschland und Japan. Medienberichten zufolge werden die Zölle stufenweise reduziert, so dass Japan z.B. zollfrei (oder zoll-ermäßigt) japanische Autos nach Deutschland importieren darf und Deutschland im Gegenzug Lebensmittel nach Japan exportieren darf. Das Freihandelsabkommen wirkt sich außerdem nur auf den Zoll aus (der bei > 150 € Warenwert fällig wird) und nicht auf die 19% Einfuhrumsatzsteuer. Letztere wird immer berechnet. not all tariffs (applicable from EUR150) are removed equally and immediately - import duties (19%) apply, no matter what.

@Pedro yeah - read about this, too. I think the rise of the dryer in the US actually does predates this more recent phenomenon, though. about a year or two ago there was a thread on reddit on dryers which exploded a bit. just another one of these things that only make sense in the US - like helicopter parenting and car parades when dropping of kids at the school. seems like they love wasting energy and are into conspiracy theories and fake science about laundry getting soiled and contaminated when line drying - at least partially. there was also another nice article somewhere on the web by an American living in the UK about his perception that dryers in the UK are actually not working properly and, therefore, are present but not used.

or use something called "inch master" - easier to use, flexible in the amount of stretch/shrinkage you want and does not put stress on on the button holes...

Definitely a screen print of average/poor quality. the ink is not broken or cracked which I would expect from a printed tee that age. must have done an amazing job to preserve the print that well and keep the white fabric from (phenolic) “yellowing”.

does it seem to be printed with multiple frames (for each colour) and does it have gaps with the fabric showing - or - is it single solid patch like a even film/layer?

well, is the print a screen print or is it a heat transfer?

which lot no. did you get? for sure those will feature painfully low front and back rises - they are supposed to sit on below the waist on the hip - checking if the cut works for you and if you need to size up is recommended. additionally, the thighs might be slimmer than usual in order to exaggerate the flared character of the leg opening...

I would also look at the fabric colours and the print itself - if it is from 1981 it would use PVC-based ink for regular screen prints and it should have been washed a fair number of times. you pic shows the black fabric to be never/hardly washed, the print to be fairly new and the white fabric to be brilliant white - for a +35 years old tee I would expect the print pink to be broken and brittle and the white fabric "yellowing" (if never used/washed) - if used/washed I would expect the black fabric to be washed-out a shade or two and the print to show some age...

it certainly looks like a lose - lose kind of scenario from a customer's perspective...

my 613 pair is quite a couple of season's old, but then those were sized more moderately - 1 size oversized...