Foxy2

placeholder....general story, etc....to come http://boweryblue.com/

@Maynard Friedman bought it when it came out (2018/19?) - should be 1st edition… current selection: 3rd edition of Paul Strand’s 1954 trip to Uist from 2016 and the 2 latest offerings from the modernist - manchester.

Heading north - passing through Glasgow. killing time - waiting for the train.

Building begann in 1972 and it got finished in 1976, but the planning began in 1966/67 with the architects being responsible for the 2 crossing tube stations underneath, the street and the highway bridge above it. The tower itself is anchored by the underground train stations. Here is an interesting interview with the surviving architect - unfortunately, it’s in German… https://www.moderne-regional.de/interview-ursulina-schueler-witte-zum-bierpinsel/ The initial setup was a nightclub, a bar and a restaurant. It was empty for some time after 2002 and got sprayed in 2009. The architects tried to prevent that from happening. Empty ever since and still not returned to the red coat…

Since the “Bierpinsel” popped up in one of the shots from the books… stolen shots from the past with original paint… interior shots from one of the recent remodelling phases… the current plan is to revert back to the original paint & colour scheme.

When dance music mattered - live @ the hacienda in 1982… …

Not really, but it’s one of the fancier machines from that period - a Merrow. also called merrow stitch, shell stitch, shell overlock.

some pics stolen from the net... and some literature regarding these buildings...

while out in the neighbourhood I couldn't miss stopping by another architectural monster - Klinikum Steglitz (now Charite Campus Benjamin Franklin) opened in 1968. The entrance... on the way to the hospital... and the hospital...

hey, here in Germany we take "Kaffee und Kuchen" very serious!

will do, although they are original and very nice they are not decorated like those...

here, I stole a pic from the internet in order to illustrate traditional 2D pattern construction for mens pants: the front and back panels are constructed on top of each other - the side seams (inseams and outseams) are moved 1-2cm into the front panel - the back panel becomes bigger than the front panel - the rump construction for the back panel gets tilted - for the front panel it stays more less straight. points that determine the crotch: - by how much the inseam of the back panel gets moved out at the crotch point(not parallel) - where the crotch line sits (it can be lowered or raised - as required) - the angle the back panel rump gets tilted - the angle of the front panel centre front seam (fly front) gets tilted - how the crotch curves for the back and front panels are shaped there are quite a number of variables involved to determine the outcome - different construction systems, different pattern makers, different countries - not 2 models of jeans are alike...

some interior shots from both buildings that I stole...

here it is - Institut für Hygiene und Umweltmedizin der Charite the model and a bird view... designed by Fehling+Gogel, build 1966 to 1974. those lines and details... the staircase... the hall...

managed to get out to Steglitz today to catch up on the current state of Mäusebunker... designed by Gerd Hänska around 1965 to 1967, construction started in 1971. it was finished in 1981. part of the Charite Berlin it was a research centre for experimental medicine, but initially it the central lab for animal experiments. we used to demonstrate here in the early 80's. the building is currently empty and it was decided last year for it to be demolished. it status as an iconic brutalist building has triggered a public debate trying to secure, preserve and repurpose the building. https://www.greyscape.com/the-inspiring-fight-on-the-ground-to-save-berlins-at-risk-brutalism/ http://mäusebunker.de part of this debate is also the opposite building - Hygieneinstitut

Funny that you say that - back in the early 80’s (way before I started my tailoring apprenticeship) we started with an art class project glueing plastic sheets and bags together to make art/fashion/garments and photographing them on the streets. From there I went on to real fabrics stapling them together before I finally tried my hands at my mom's sewing machine. What can I say - it was the 80’s, you were a punk, a popper, a waver or a new romantic - you wore it, it worked!

That’s right! I intend to feature it soon… But today I have to point out that I still like these recycled coffee mugs very much. its made from recycled coffee husks and intended to re-cycled at its lifecycle end - they are also setting up a cup swap network…

Threads used in the industry are very specific and hard to come by - I would not expect a regular tailor to have these at hand. Matching them for colour is the next problem… Top-stitching the back pocket can be tricky if you don’t have an industrial sewing machine, the right needle (and needle tip), the right presser foot (differential or one-sided) and a proper, good working transport (ideally needle transport) as there are quite a few additional fabric layers to penetrate around the rivets and you would want the stitch length to be even and match. What helps in this specific case is that they are reproductions made with vintage equipment. Uneven stitch length might and wonky stitching might already be an original feature. A proper tailor might not understand that as something desirable and would want to improve that. I would definitely point that out to them beforehand. Maybe a just undoing the minimum required length and live with the overlapping double stitching and back tacking is the safest, least destructive option? Again, not inserting the flag label, but attaching directly onto the leg panel as close as possible to the back pocket edge is also an option. One could also mimic a label with a red embroidery - as SDA and others have done in the past on certain models (it also circumvents one of the legal aspects). Take a good look at the specific back pocket and how the stitching has been executed and you should be able to make up your mind. Going with a dedicated denim repair specialists like Rain is certainly the safer option. There are other specialists (or used to be) in California as well.

@dudewuttheheck Personally, I would undo the outer top-stitching seam and cut down the seam allowance of the new flag label to fit. just be careful around the rivets/hidden rivets as the construction in that area often requires bar tacks and folding over with the pocket patch fabric cut very close to the edges.

Subtly is difficult as the pocket top stitching is done in a contrast colour… Partial re-stitching could end up popping out visually and mismatched sewing yarn colours are another issue. Ask for some sewing thread as well! An alternative would be to press the seam allowance over and then top-stitch the flag label as close to the back pocket fabric as possible. This will require a one-sided presser foot for the sewing machine.

To me it looks like those examples of early flat lays are just anecdotal evidence but did not manifest as a specific, dedicated trend in earlier days. However, I see a connection to technical manuals/instructions, visual/graphic aids and technical drawings (exploded diagrams).

Our Moroccan tea table: found it in a place in the desert and had to have it. works so well with the reproductions of vintage club leather chair designs that we found in a small workshop in Hong Kong a decade back, or so.

Back into my pair after some time off… will try to take proper pics, soon.

That’s great! That cover picture - recent edition of the modernist magazine - is a building here in West-Berlin. It’s called the mice bunker (=Mäusebunker) and there was quite recently a public debate about its future. Not sure if it is easily accessible right now, but I’ll try to snap some pictures over the next few days.

You mean something like that? I hope you like it…