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Foxy2

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Foxy2 last won the day on November 9 2018

Foxy2 had the most liked content!

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About Foxy2

  • Rank
    2000

Profile Information

  • Gender
    male
  • style
    bespoke
  • attitude
    obsessed
  • location:
    Moscow - Berlin - Small Isles
  • wish i was in
    Scotland
  • denim
    size 33
  • t-shirt
    medium

Recent Profile Visitors

22,805 profile views
  1. Foxy2

    Sugar Cane Denim

    yeah, machine translation for Japanese is still struggling big time - you should try this with Yamane Hidehiko's Evisu blog sometime. he seems to be writing in a very heavy local dialect most of the time... Regarding dryer use: I didn't want it to be political or about the US vs. the rest, but I got a bit curious about actual statistics... according to the US EIA (2017) about 81% of US households have a dryer and about 79% use it. https://www.eia.gov/todayinenergy/detail.php?id=31692 comparable numbers for the UK, France or Germany from consumer interest and market research groups are in the range of 45-55% - Italy is supposed to have a number of less than 10%, but I haven't researched that.
  2. Foxy2

    Sugar Cane Denim

    My own understanding of people's different approach to dryers is that it is at least partially cultural - if you live in a moderate or hot climate you simply don't have and/or need a dryer. I grew up thinking that taking a shower twice a day, washing all of your garments every single day, having giant sized washing machines and giant sized dryers in addition is a massive waste of money, water and electricity - not to speak of the use of fabric softeners... I am not arguing that they are not convenient or very useful in less dry climates. the other argument against dryers is what they can do to pleats & ceases and to leather patches if you are not careful. now, we have most washing machines with integrated dryers and I only use that function every blue moon (after thinking twice) - there are no short-cuts in live!
  3. Foxy2

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    pre-assembly?
  4. Foxy2

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    great example - the inner sewing line being curved is part of "there is method in the madness" - the outer sewing line is the issue: no trained, professional sewing operator in piece work would be willing or allowed this degree of inaccuracy in distance to fabric edge. sewn with a "hot needle"... this may happen with untrained sewing operators, no skill training and no quality control system in place.
  5. Foxy2

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I didn't mean to imply that you did (& sorry if it came out like that) - I just took the idea and ran with it...actually, in the early days a lot of the IE (Industrial Engineering) team member used to be former sewing operators. but since the 70's and 80's that is no longer true - at least for the countries I can speak for (Europe & Asia). Work Study in the garment industry has been around for some time by now. Also, I am strictly speaking Garment Manufacturing Industry - wouldn't know too much about circumstances and evolution in other industries.(although, a lot of the principles and methodologies came for non-related industries.) this also brings to mind an episode from one of my previous employers - I used to work for internationally operating German menswear company and one day they bought a US plant. we were shocked about the existing quality standards and struggled for the longest time to make that plant work...part of the difficulties were certainly rooted in culture, cultural back ground and insensitive approach. shoddy work does not blame the inexperienced sewing operator but the line manager or production floor manager to allow this to happen and/or to be used. doing piece work with un-trained operators is dangerous, certainly against labor laws/union regulations/safety standards and counter-productive for sewing operator training. back in the old days pattern drafting was done by hand on paper. standard patterns and templates were often made from heavy cardboard - the curves, splines and edges were sanded down. factories were given sets and those were used extensively. factories had to make replacements at their own expense for deteriorating pieces by copying those. some of these copies certainly have ended-up being worse. paper pattern making and grading used to be a skill - CAD technology did change certain parts of the industry differently. grading often became simplified and/or worse in fit. a lot of the old experts couldn't make the transition from manual to computer-aided - know-how got lost and the resulting product often did suffer.
  6. Foxy2

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    hard to imagine that a sewing operator would design the layout of a mass-production line. especially, in such a cut-throat environment as a US sewing factory - even in the 60's, 70's and 80's. but then, you never know... the coin pockets variations look like substandard work, which was deemed acceptable as it was a non-visible and would have only be detected by the in-house quality check - and they might not have cared. the shoddy work did help saving a cent or two - if only by avoiding re-work. back pockets are highly visible (including arcs) and were standardized in shape, position and execution - often supported by the use of templates, positioning devices and automated machinery. I can imagine that some variations between factories are not only due to production line layout, but also due to the patterns used. those are standard blocks and patterns, but in early days (the period before and during the early days of CAD technology & cut-plotters) pattern grading, production markers, paper patterns, cardboard patterns and sewing templates was tricky business and often left to the factories. don't forget - during those days they (L.) got themselves with the back to the wall facing syndicated buyers dictating wholesale prices and rebates...and there goes quality control (exit stage).
  7. Foxy2

    Full Count Denim Thread

    I bet they did...
  8. Foxy2

    Full Count Denim Thread

    don't forget that FC and Orslow have non-Japan business that they need to protect or grow - I wouldn't expect changes from TCB, Samurai (already have an export series) or Warehouse....
  9. Foxy2

    Watches and Denim

    watch & strap look fine to me...
  10. Foxy2

    Bowery Blue Makers - NYC

    I'll let her know - thanks from her side.
  11. Foxy2

    Front Rise vs. Back Rise

    making pants patterns for standing upright is relatively easy. making patterns for standing, walking and sitting can be a challenge that requires to make decisions/compromises in rise lengths. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that brand start-ups (and "newer" brands) simply copy patterns from competitor samples and/or circumvent their own pattern and fit development research.
  12. Foxy2

    Bowery Blue Makers - NYC

    BBM in the background - maybe after the TCB contest I'll get to wear those...
  13. Foxy2

    Front Rise vs. Back Rise

    from a former pattern maker's perspective: personally speaking, I always found making patterns for pants to be equally, if not more, challenging than for suit jackets/blazers. the whole top block is a system of interdependent parameters: total rise length, ratio of front to back seam, shape and spline front rise curve, angle/tilt of hips to legs, position of inseam, spline of upper inseam/outseam, etc... changing just one parameter can require adjustment of multiple other parameters. it is important to have a very clean basic block that works for the specific fabrics, its' shrinkage and workmanship requirements/adjustments while covering an ideal range of the brand's target consumers' anthropomorphic features (ideal, non-ideal, measurements, posture). there is very little that can be fixed in production/sewing if the pattern is screwed-up. and that's even before talking about issues like sizing, size ranges and grading...
  14. Foxy2

    Studio D'artisan

    Beard and tattoo are obligatory - but at least one is mandatory.
  15. Foxy2

    Studio D'artisan

    Some of my suspenders have a leather fold with hook on the backside (see the first pic) to hold a clip for the waistband or a leather strap with button holes (for waistband buttons) - the leather fold will hold the fabric strap from the jeans. The problem with the single back strap remains...