mpukas

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mpukas last won the day on August 21 2015

mpukas had the most liked content!

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About mpukas

  • Rank
    super
  • Birthday 05/28/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    male
  • style
    rough trade
  • attitude
    obsessed
  • biography:
    denim head
  • location:
    Gypsum, CO
  • wish i was in
    Keira Knightley
  • talents:
    making things taste good
  • denim
    size 33
  • t-shirt
    large
  • shoes
    us 9 uk 8.5 eu 43 jp 27

Recent Profile Visitors

6,612 profile views
  1. @JDelage - what are your thoughts on the fit? Overall I think it looks pretty good, but are the shoulders a bit big?
  2. From my limited knowledge of shoe/boot making, the original Goodyear welt was made by hand by cutting a rib into the midsole. The machine was created to make the process easier and quicker and get the same result. I think it's one of the coolest parts of boot construction. The glued-on ribbing was made to make the process even easier. Gemming/ribbing gets bagged on a lot, but I've personally not heard of any quality boot failing because the ribbing came unglued from the midsole. I've been told by fellas here, more in the know than I, thatmost high-end shoe/boot makers use some sort of glued-on ribbing for the GYW. It could be said that gemming/ribbing is the dirty little secret of GYW, and all the GYW-fan-boys are being duped. Youtube has many videos of various methods. If you search for Redwing, you can clearly see on their mass-produced work boots that they glue on a synthetic/plastic ply-rib to the midsole. If you search for Rios of Mercedes - AWESOME BOOTS! - you can see a good demo of them using their ribbing machine, as Viberg now has. In the meantime, check out these mad crazy welting skills. To really appreciate it you have to watch the whole thing.
  3. @kiya - you've probably answered this before and I've missed it, but will this film ever be in wider release? Everyone in this little niche world who wasn't able to attend a showing in person desperately wants to see it. Any insight as to hhy or why not? Cheers! mpp
  4. I suspect it's combination of marketing and branding, and a history of international economies. How many Portuguese or Spanish brands are we aware of? Not nearly as many as French, Italian, British, US, etc. Of the few brands we know of, is their quality any less than the better know brands? I don't know exactly, but I suspect none, if not significantly less. I intentionally exclude the JP brands we fawn over since this scene is such an anomaly, and it's it's part of the JP culture to be fanatically good at just one thing. I also think it's akin to manufacturing in China and Korea - years ago US co's outsourced because it was cheaper, and now they're at the point where they are often better as well cheaper than can be done locally.
  5. I agree with this sentiment, and have been thinking the same thing. Portugal is know for producing quality clothing, and especially shoes. Like other manufacturers, they can probably meet any level of price and quality desired by the client. Another reason for outsourcing to Portugal, besides cost, is the infrastructure, skill and labor force. That's not to say that Portugal is the only country that knows how to make quality clothes and shoes, they just know how to achieve a level of quality for a price that's more competitive than US or EU capabilities, which in turn makes for a more economical item for the consumer, which means more sales. Very likely. What you write contradicts yourself from one post to the next. Don't get defensive against other members for not "getting" what you mean, when what you say isn't said clearly.
  6. @JDelage - thnx for posting pics and measurements. Questions about your method - where are you measuring the waist? At the smallest width, and are you doing a second measurement at the bottom width/opening? My hunch has always been that I'd need a 44 in TFH, and your measurements confirm that. I find it interesting how much taper they have compared to shoulder width. Post some fit pics when u get a chance. Thnx!
  7. That 8050 oxford/derby is a really good looking shoe. Nice score. I assume that's from the Euro/JP market, not available in USA?
  8. @aho - it's perfectly normal to have your enthusiasm and excitement wax and wane for a particular hobby/interest, and still have that hobby/interest as core element of who you are. Don't be concerned about not participating as much as you have in the past, or as much as you think you should as representative of you dedication to denim. And, even if your enthusiasm does genuinely wane and you move on to other interests/hobbies/types of clothing, etc., there's still nothing wrong with that. Sometimes you just need a break from it, step away for a while, and then when you come back with a fresher set of eyes, you may find your energy is renewed. I too wear denim every day, all day, and can't imagine ever wearing anything else. But my level of enthusiasm and knowledge will never equal yours or most other members here. And that's fine with me. I live vicariously through you guys!
  9. RCFG does hemming job much quicker than tapering and waist jobs. Hemming is 2-3 days, tapering is 2-3 weeks. I've sent in pair for tapering a couple of weeks ago... they're getting a lot of business.
  10. IH did a model (don't recall which one ATM...) that were "lightly" sanforized, with the intention being to take out the shrinkage guessing game and leg twisting yet keep the loomstate characteristics.
  11. I agree - this would be an ideal way to keep the loomstate characteristics and take the guess work out of shrinkage. However, I don't think it would be practical for many reason, not the least of which being that if large bolts of raw denim could be washed, the fabric would skew and make it difficult to cut patterns from.
  12. Yes, celastic toe. It's really personal preference, and whether or not you really need it for protection at work. I like it so the toe keeps it's shape. I'm not really a fan of unstructured toe, especially on a boot this rugged.
  13. I've recommended shoeslacesexpress.com several times. Their waxed boot laces (round, 5/32" dia) are excellent, and I use them in several pairs of boots & shoes. They also have a flat waxed, but stocked only in short lengths. You can order custom lengths. Redwing sells their flat waxed laces on-line, but they may be a bit wider the Alden's.
  14. @Cucoo - looking good! What size did you get?
  15. I 2nd this, as I was going to say the same thing. Leather creasing at the toe is not neccessarliy a sign of the leather quality. It is probable that some leathers that Alden, the PNW makers, English makers, and other higher-end makers use is "better", but when talking about Horween CXL and other similar leathers, I don't think they have anything over RW's better leathers (Feahterstone, Settler). RW owns S.B. Foot Tanning Co., which has been in operation since 1872. Care to drop some names of makers that produce a boot that retails at $350 - $400 that's "much nicer" the Beckman Round at $350? I do not consider Wolverine, Chippewa or Thorogood better in any way. Oakstreet's lowest priced 6" boot is $400 for one particular leather, and the others are $426+ (no thanks). Indy's are $530+. Nick's stock Robert is $464. You can't really get into a Russell Moccasin boot for under $400. The only boot that I can come up with that I'd buy before the Beckman in that price range in the Chinese-made Grant Stone.