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mpukas last won the day on August 21 2015

mpukas had the most liked content!

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About mpukas

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/28/1969

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  • Gender
  • style
    rough trade
  • attitude
  • biography:
    denim head
  • location:
    Gypsum, CO
  • wish i was in
    Keira Knightley
  • talents:
    making things taste good
  • denim
    size 33
  • t-shirt
  • shoes
    us 9 uk 8.5 eu 43 jp 27

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  1. I think this will also give IH Central tighter control over their inventory, where's it's going, who has what, and how many, etc.
  2. true PBJ also has numerous international retailers. I'm of the opinion that this sort of international price fixing (or call it whatever you want) is going to happen with more brands. Japanese makers are mostly small scale (compared to any other international fashion brand). As the global interest in selvedge denim, heritage work wear, craft made clothing, boutique Japanese brands, etc. continues to expand, Japanese makers are realizing they can reach a much broader market by partnering with international retailers. However, international retailers are subject to higher fees, as discussed, therefore have to charge higher prices. It's going to impact buyers from all over the world, for different reasons. Personally I'm not happy about it, but I understand why. Just remember these times, in a couple of years we'll all be used to paying 25%-40% more than we're paying today. I do find it oddly amusing that there's a general perception that it's OK for IH to do this, mainly since they have a long established base in UK, that ships internationally, which charges much higher prices than their JP store (RB&C) which does not ship outside of JP, but it's somehow not OK for PBJ (or some other lesser-perceived brand) to do this. I'm curious to see the reactions when TFH, Samurai, Warehouse, FC, Oni, etc. start doing this.
  3. yep. Same sort of thing that's happening w/ PBJ.
  4. @Maynard Friedman - I've been eyeing Astroflex, but I don't know much about them. What can you tell us about them? How is the fit of the forefoot - standard/narrow, or wide? Cheers! mpp
  5. bump for price drop. The only items remaining for sale are IHSH-62 INDIGO XXL and IHSH-62 BLACK XXL.
  6. I completely agree with Maynard's recommendation. Start off light, and progress slightly darker. Depending on how the leather is currently treated will determine how much new color is absorbed. STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING RED!!! Unless, of course, that's what you want. Once you get some sort of red pigment into the leather, they'll forever be red. Keep in mind, once you darken them, you can't go back. IMO, it appears you haven't worn them too much. I'd give them a few months of wear and see how you like them then. Lovely boots. mpp
  7. I was eyeing that new denim too. The measurements on that cut look very appealing for what I'm looking for. I don't own any PBJ, have been very interested for quite a while. The new price on that model will be a 42%+/- increase - OUCH! I REALLY, REALLY like that double natural indigo Type II - that's truly a work of art. But at current price it's rather expensive. The new price will be 44% increase, and that puts in into the realm of ludicrous for a denim jacket, regardless of how nice it is. I've thought of that too, but when you add proxy fees, plus the taxes that proxy has to pay being in Japan, and shipping fees that adds anywhere from 25%-35%, there's not much if any savings over the new international prices. I think - and I'm making an marginally educated guess - that other makers are going to follow suit rather soon. Those of us in the western world, and particularly in US where we usually don't have to pay customs fees for clothing/goods up to a relatively high value (and that was recently increased), have had it really good for many years being able to buy through Rakuten and other retailers willing to ship overseas directly.
  8. It's PBJ's new international pricing, not Okayama Denim. All retailers selling internationally will be subject tot the price increase
  9. some of the SExIH collab's have no arcs
  10. @edmond White's did the rebuild
  11. For reference (for guys that haven't seen these before), here are my SJ's I had rebuilt in early 05/2014. Originally purchased in early 2003. I wore them for many years as "causal" boots, before they got to be too unbearable for every day wear. The original build was full-on black Smoke Jumper spec. The rebuild was 1/4" lowered curved heel, half sole, Quabag heel cap, brown Domain leather, toe cap w/ broguing. When I first got them back, one of the boot's heels was not compressed evenly, and it was angled very noticeably from outside to inside. Sent them back and they re-did the one boot's heel. Who ever ground the sole edge did a terrible job, and nearly ground off the entire second row of stitching. The top edge of the leather sole was also very rough and uneven. Since Domain leather is very thick and tough, the stitch-down construction produces a very bulbous edge. I wore them walking the dog in the snow a lot, and that abraded off the edge finish. I then hit the with Obenauf's leather oil, which darkened the brown leather significantly. If I ever get these rebuilt again, I'd have them made 1/2 size longer (currently an 8), at least one size wider wider (currently EE - I'd prefer 3E or 4E), and made with a square lowered heel, close trim (if White's will do it; I've heard they won't do square heel with close trim, but if you order through Baker's they will do it for you afterwards), low or even flat arch, no toe cap, change to all eyelets with no hooks - antique brass no bright brass, and built as a semi-dress boot with either CXL or White's dress leather. AND I'd make sure the outsole stitching and edge grinding is done extra carefully. White's has the ability to do incredible work, my pair wasn't up to par, IMO. Maybe on their semi-dress and finer leather boots they take more care in the work.
  12. @Jambol depending on how much shrink you want to get out of them, I recommend a cold wash in a front loading washing machine. Avoid a top-loading machine that has a central agitator. Turn them inside out. Hand wash cycle, no spin. Once the wash cycle is done, you can spin them for a minute or so, just to get some of the excess water out, but don't spin them for too long. Flatten them out as best you can and hang dry. Once mostly dry, turn right-side out and continue to hang until completely dry. Do not try to wear them damp, as you'll get unnatural stretching and sagging, especially in the knees and butt. If they didn't shrink enough, then do the same thing but use the hottest water you're washing machine will get. I usually do two washes and hang dry cycles with any new jeans to get all of the shrink out, and I've had very good luck. No noticeable color loss. I also like to iron my jeans after they're dried the second time, as it relaxes and extends the fabric, and makes the jeans hang better. I don't iron after they've been worn for some time and are developing whiskers/combs. The problem when washing heavy denim that fades fast is when they're wet, they're very heavy and they will get folds in unnatural places. If they're spun or put in the dryer, even inside out, the dye will fade from the edges of the folds and you'll end up with weird fade lines. All denim will shrink when washed and stretch with wear, unsanforized much more so than sanforized. But each denim behaves differently. If they're a full size too big currently in raw state, they should shrink 1 to 1.5 sizes when washed, and then stretch 0.5 10 1 size with wear over time.
  13. Here's a pair of White's I somehow stumbled across on Imgur. I don't know/can't tell who this fella is, but big thanks to him for posting pics of his fine boots. To me, this is probably THE BEST looking pair of White's I have ever seen. Everything from the leather to the overall construction and detailing looks nearly perfect, both in craftsmanship and aesthetics. When I had mine rebuilt a couple of years ago, I was hoping for something like this. What I got was nothing close. After oogling this Imgur post for months now, I'm considering having them rebuilt again, using this pair as an example. White's Bounty Hunter - Brown Dress
  14. @mlwdp - that's a lace-to-toe Smoke Jumper. Heel looks standard height. Standard SJ leather is not Chormexcel - that leather is no where near durable enough for what the boots are intended for. I think standard leather is Domain, which is very thick and stiff, tough to break in. That outsole is a very thick lugged Vibram sole that glued, stitched and screwed. White's and the other PNW boot makers don't use a steel shank, as it would get hot and burn your feet when walking on hot coals, so they use an extremely thick and heavy built-up oak leather shank and arch support. IMO, after owning a pair for 14+ years, and having them rebuilt, unless you're logging or fighting forest fires, these boots are way, way overkill for everyday use and wear. I rarely wear mine because they're simply too heavy and stiff, and they're well broken in. For everyday and light duty use, talk to Kyle at Baker's about scaling them back a little, with a more manageable outsole, possibly a more supple leather (although the Domain is great), lower heel and arch to use less leather and make them a little lighter.
  15. According to his website, at least last time I looked a few weeks ago, you can pay a fee for a rush job. I've been eyeing WHR for a couple of years now, long before he recently blew up, and oh how I wish I had ordered a pair then, before he increased his prices and lead time so much...