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mpukas

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Everything posted by mpukas

  1. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Final thought for now: As I mentioned a few posts ago in this thread, a pet peeve of mine is boots/shoes with a square heel block. GS heel is sloped so the heel sits flat on the ground. When comparing the fit of the double leather sole with a built up full leather leather heel to the micro stud sole that runs the full length of the sole, and then the heel cap is installed on top of that, the double leather sole is more comfortable. On the micro stud sole, I can feel the front edge of the built up heel under foot. On the double leather sole, there's no sensation of that at all. I'm pretty well set in my kit for this type of boot/shoe. But if/when GS releases a new leather for the Diesel boot in EEE w/ a double leather sole, I'll be copping for sure. Oh, I also order a pair of their Chelsea boots to try on. I have to admit, as much as I like their designs for their core boots and shoes, their Chelsea is their crowning achievement. It's such a well designed, good looking boot. It bridges the gap between super pointy fashion dress boot and clunky toe work boot. Elegant with a just enough rugged edge, and a hint of Western / Cowboy boots influence. I returned them because they were too narrow. If / when they offer a wide size, I'll definitely cop a pair.
  2. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Long Wing in British Tan Calf, double leather outsole w/ Svig forefoot and heel overlays. Since I was in college I've had a thing for wing tips. I prefer a full brogue where the brogue looks as a heel counter, rather than this style of long brogue at the full length of the side. But given everything else I like about GS, I'll happily take it.
  3. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Plain Toe in Dune CXL, double leather outsole. The color of this leather to me looks very similar to JL's Natural CXL. W/ Svig outsole and heel overlays.
  4. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Ottawa in Crimson CXL w/ factory built studded rubber sole
  5. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Diesel boots in Badalassi Tan veg tan. Svig mini-lug outsoles (made in Italy; my local cobbler says this rubber compound is much better than the Viberg MiC outsoles. That remains to be seen... he did a very nice job installing them). This is the pair that I wanted from the start. So glad I have them in this leather and size.
  6. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I like Grant Stone boots a lot. I got my first pair in 11/2017. Size 9 1/2 E. The width was good, but far too long. I wore them quite a bit, but always wanted to get a size better suited to me. They do EEE widths in some models. During their BF sale, I ordered several pairs and spoke to them on the phone. They said to ordered a couple different sizes, and return the ones that didn't fit. I settled on size 8 1/2 EEE. I maybe could have gone down to an 8 EEE, and the 8 1/2 EEE still look really long to my eye. But the overall fit of the 8 1/2 EEE is so good in width, volume, and where the ball of my foot bends. There are many things that I like about GS: Their Leo last is great and offered in EEE width; and they do some models in double leather outsole. This is my preferred construction for casual boots/shoes, as I have a cobbler install a rubber overlay that can easily be replaced when it wears out, and have to go through the expense of a full resole. For work / heavy duty boots this prolly wouldn't be a good option. For the price, GS can't be beat. And at the sale price, I ended up getting 4 pairs. Boots and shoes for life, for me. I'll only wear these casually, and I don't often have occasion to weart the dressier shoes. It's kinda sobering to think that I'll have these boots & shoes until I can't wear boots and shoes any longer. If you're curious about the build quality of GS footwear, here's Anvil_Rose cutting a pair of Diesel boots in half:
  7. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    This a pair that I fell ion love with. Cavalier built for a JP retailer on Old Bull Hide. This would have been my next pair of RM, but with a flat sole.
  8. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Imperials when new, and currently after quite a bit of wear and sitting in the closet. The twist in the right boot is rather obvious in the new pics.
  9. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Hikers when new, and currently after quite a bit of wear and sitting in the closet
  10. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    OK, here're my Russell Moccasin boots. Hiker, 7" tall", double vamp, leather lined, waterproof leather from Redwing (can't recall the leather name) and Imperials, 10" double vamp, leather lined, French calf leather. My criteria was Munson last, wider at the toe box, flat with no heel or arch support. One pair for hiker and beating on, one pair for nice wear. It was a really long back and forth process with RM. I started the process in June 2016, and got the final pairs in November 2017. Sue, the grand daughter of the founder, was just great dealing me. I had several issues along the way, and she was very accommodating in getting things sorted out. I did foot tracings and complete measurements. Originally, I wanted bison leather boots, so I sourced some shrunken bison leather and sent it to them. They made me 2 pairs, but were sized way too big despite the tracings and measurements. They took the boots back and worked with me on getting the sizing right. They made me a new pair of Hikers, still didn't fit right, and took them back. They sent me sample pairs in different sizes to try. Finally settled on the size, and had the Hikers made first. They fit well, except the upper closure was way off - too small over the ankle and too big at the top where the upper corner touched when not even laced tightly. They modified the upper by cutting the stitching at the pull tab, cutting the upper seam and re-sewing, but the pull tab couldn't be re-sewn so it's just floppy. I requested a thicker leather mid-sole, but they couldn't do it. The grinding of the outsole edge was very uneven and inconsistent, so they cleaned it up. Still a bit wonky and uneven around the perimeter and from boot to boot. The 2nd pair was the Imperials. This pair was built quite a bit better than the Hikers. There are fewer boot makers in their shop that work on these boots due to the higher level of skill required for the hand-stitching. This French calf leather is really nice, some of the better leather I've had in any footwear. There's a massive twist in the right boot. Not sure why, maybe it's the way the grain of the leather runs when the pattern was cut. It got a little better with wear, and didn't affect the way the boots fit. In one of the boots, they didn't put the footbed liner in. So they sent me one to install myself. It's about a half-length liner. The issue there was the liner was cut square from stock leather, and the front edge was not skived. I tried to skive and sand it myself to make a smooth transition, but it's not as clean as the the left boot finished in the factory. I can feel that small transition. The Hilers still felt a tad big, so I had the Imperials built 1/2 down. For the first 2-3 months they felt great, but then it felt like the toe pulled back and I could feel the front of the boot. I have to tie them really tight at the instep to keep my foot back in the heel pocket. I should have stayed with the same exact size in the Hikers. As much as I want to, I can't say that I'm 100% pleased with the end product. I guess I had much higher hopes. Sue and customer service overall were fantastic, and nothing negative to say about that at all. I was very particular in what I wanted, and how I wanted the boots to fit. Sue told me at one point that doing full custom fitting lead to far more frustrations that she thinks it's worth, and that RM should just go with a wide range of standard sizes. I wouldn't not recommend RM to anyone, but not sure I'd get another pair myself. When it comes to true moccasin footwear they are in a league of their own. I don't think the other companies that use this method can compare with their experience, options, and durability. Their overall fit and finish is very wabi-sabi. Their main market in the US is the hunting world. Sue told me the JP market is much more fashion-forward, and I think the footwear they make for export is finished to a higher level. But that's a guess on my part and I could be completely wrong. Here's my first pair of bison leather Imperials that were too big. Can't recall the leather color name, but it was very red, much redder than I expected. This is the pair RM took back and sold off.
  11. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I did get 2 pairs of custom sized RM - Hiker and Imperial. I never posted any pics or talked much about them. Nice boots. Very, very nice people to work with, especially Sue. Long story short I went back and forth with them countless times on sizing, and they stayed with me until we got the sizing and what I wanted right. I'm just not as thrilled with them as I had hoped. The Hikers are good beaters, very comfortable, durable. The Imperials aren't sized quite as good as the Hikers. I haven't worn either in a couple years, and I should. Overall build / construction is very wabi-sabi. Their domestic market is geared towards the hunting and outdoormans crowd. Not like the JP market.
  12. mpukas

    The Flat Head

    I copped a pair of RJB x R&H RFR-004 size 34. Should be here next week. Since I've settled on a cut that has a low- to medium-low rise, straight/relaxed thighs and slight taper from knee to hem, I'm hoarding. I have my eye on a few other pairs from a couple different brands. I really should get a pair of TFH 3009, if I can find a pair, or if they start making them again. Once I get them, and I'm in no rush other than they may sell out, I'll be done. For a while at least.
  13. mpukas

    The Flat Head

    @Cold Summer epic pair!
  14. I'll consume anything Damon Albarn touches. I've learned of many great, amazing artists through him that I'd otherwise not know of. IMO, this is the best song of 2020. It didn't get any traction though, compared to some other tracks from Sound Machine. Don't care, though, I love it.
  15. mpukas

    The Flat Head

    @SuperJackle (or anyone else who has this pair) How have you been along with these? What has the shrinkage / stretch been like with additional washes / soaks? Strongly considering these as my next pair. Undecided between a 33 and 34. On paper, a 33 1-wash would suite me well, But I've been going with 34's in other pairs for the extra room in the thighs. And, in my experience, there's always a little more shrinkage to be had. So I'd prolly go with a 34 just to be safe... I have a pair of SE RJB 105BSP in 33 that are too tight in the thigh, but they are a slimmer cut than this 004.
  16. mpukas

    Stevenson Overall Company

    Not all wools are equal, including merino. There are different ways wool is processed. Some will shrink, some will not. I'd recommend following SE care instructions, to avoid any unwanted surprises. Personally, I love merino wool, and I prefer garments that can be washed at home. I love this sweater! I'm not much of a sweater guy, but I'm considering this. Nice score @Broark
  17. mpukas

    Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info

    What size did you get? I'm looking at an XL... I'm usually 1 size smaller than you...
  18. mpukas

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    My measurements for size 33 are almost identical, accounting for user error. This cut is really awesome, even thought I haven't even tried them on yet. Roy's R01 cut is great, and I'd prefer a slight taper below the knee to a slightly smaller leg opening, which this has.
  19. mpukas

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    Here are some quick comparison shots of Roy's Black Seed denim vs the XX Experimental denim. Both raw. The XX Ex is darker and grayer, and more uniform in texture and color than the Black Seed. The XX Ex weft has a green-ish hue. The differences are more apparent IRL. My camera phone won't pick up the details and colors accurately.
  20. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I have not had a pair of boots/shoe heels rebuilt specifically for this reason. I've only had 1 or maybe 2 pair with a non-sloped heel. I had a p[air of White's SJ rebuilt a few years ago, and they botched one of the heels. It was sloped inwards quite badly. I sent them back, and White's rebuilt the heel just on the one boot. I'm a bit of an anomaly 'round here... my boot/shoe game is pretty weak. Primarily because I've become accustomed to wearing dead-flat foot wear w/ no heel, foot friendly with a wide forefoot, no arch support or cushioning. The boots/shoes that fit that criteria are not attractive. I do have a couple pair that can maybe be SuFu acceptable, lol. Saying all that, I did cop some pairs of Grant Stone boots and shoes in their Black Friday sale. They'll suite me well for the rest of my days. Their one of the few makers of conventional footwear that offer a wide fit, EEE for some model, a sloped heel, and no arch support built into the last. And their price point in unrivaled for the quality. I need to post pics... I'm very pleased with them. But again, prolly frowned on my most here.
  21. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I've posted these Rios of Mercedes vids before. This is part 3. At about 2:50, he talks about the heel. He likes to see a little day light at the front of the heel, never at the back. That way when you step there's a little spring. If there's day light at the back, he says that pressure will feel like you're standing on a pipe. I concur. For anyone who has an interest in how boots and shoes are made, I highly encourage you to watch this series, even if you're not into cowboy boots. It's very informative, and many techniques that they use can be applied to any other footwear. Some techniques are unique to cowboy boots, like the lemon wood nails in the sole. If I were to get a pair of cowboy boots, it would be Rios of Mercedes, prolly even over Lucchese.
  22. mpukas

    Shoes that look better with age...

    This is a big pet peeve of mine, and I agree w/ the reviewer. To a point. A heel block that does not sit level to the ground is not uncommon. Many makers do it. For example, it can be seen on Lofgren's M-43 boots. This is not unique to Lone Wolf, and probably wasn't an oversight. I have/had boots/shoes with a heel like this, and it drives me nuts. The front edge of the heel puts enormous pressure on the heel of foot, directly above the leading edge of the heel where it strikes the ground. I have boots/shoes where the heel block is sloped, and that pressure is greatly reduced. Getting the heel re-made by a good cobbler that has experience with this type of built-up stacked leather heel isn't a big deal. The slope of the heel block should be in on of the stacked leather layers above the rubber outsole, so the outsole does not need modification. If you like the boots, get them, try them. If the heel is an issue, it can be corrected to suit your tastes/needs. I wouldn't let that deter you from getting them, if you like them that much.
  23. mpukas

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    My RT-XX (or whatever they are, lol) finally arrived today. Haven't had a chance to do anything but glance at them quickly. I'll get measurements and comparison pics to the Black Seed denim soon...
  24. mpukas

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    Mine are stuck in USPS Holiday Shipping Limbo. Supposed to be delivered Monday. No real info on tracking site...
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