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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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54 minutes ago, mrman said:

There's still much of that going around. Even worse, never washing your denim for the sake of fades. Weird...

Funny about this thread.  I’ve always been a 6 month guy but rethinking this vis a vis hemming, softness and longevity 

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On 3/15/2018 at 3:37 AM, zwer said:

After getting my 180z PBJs back from the repair shop for the 4th time, only to find a hole in the left pocket bag, it's got me to wondering - is the quality argument that we all make really true?

I've had my x13s since last December and probably have between 5-6 months of wear days on them. My first repair came after 3 months in. The crotch was reinforced, but it puts extra stress on the edges of the repair fabric and that's where new holes develop.

DOn't get me wrong - I'm not complaining. I love the jeans. I've loved them since trying them on and I love them now that they're kind of beat. But are they of high quality? That I'm not so sure of.

Didn't want to put this in the PBJ thread because I don't want to turn people off the brand (I've had similar/worse experiences with Iron Heart 18oz and 25oz).

Is it because you put your phone into your left pocket bag? Generally they are not like chinos or dress pants with slash pocket. I have not met any pants with slash front pockets blow out with phone. Usually I put my phone on my backpockets when I stand, and take them out put on the table when I sit as not to damage the denim fabric.

As for crotch, I think it's just a sizing issue. I have a pair of 14oz xx013 worn more than 365 times but no signs of blowout. A slightly looser fit will help out a lot

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8 hours ago, mpukas said:

The basic sentiment of my ramble is that durability is not the primary concern of Japanese denim makers, and the character of worn Cone denim, partially due to  unintentionally irregularity, influences many denims they create. Some more than others. I didn't say or try to imply they are all trying to recreate Cone denim exactly. In Weaving Shibusa Kobayashi-san talks about his first pair of Levi's, and how he developed his own brand's denim. From what I infer he was influenced and inspired on some level by the characteristics of his Cone denim jeans. Obviously his denims are very different to Cone's denims as well as any other denim. 

10+ times more durable is an intentional exaggeration... 

I feel like Kobayashi draws inspiration from the 1920s and WW2 fabric a lot....since they have similar vertical texture as the pioneer denim

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@keybladehero - no, I don't keep my phone in my front pocket. I did used to keep my work passcard in there, though, which probably explains it.

And I don't wear my jeans overly tight (though they sometimes get that way depending on how my diet is). I do reckon it's body type.

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4 hours ago, mrman said:

There's still much of that going around. Even worse, never washing your denim for the sake of fades. Weird...

in addition to the stench of swamp butt

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I've got a pair of the black/indigo Onis on their way from BiG and a pair of Warehouse 900s on ice. It won't be exact science, but I'm going to do a test over the spring/summer. I reckon I'll wash the Warehouse every two weeks and not wash the Onis at all and see what happens.

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I think you’ll conclude that one pair stink and one pair don’t. 

Jesting aside, the washed pair will certainly be stronger for it. Cleverer people than me will be able to explain why. 

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14 hours ago, dudewuttheheck said:

Fair enough, I guess. The ironic thing is that synthetic fabrics are more durable anyway.

Agreed, their primary goal is detail not longevity 

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4 hours ago, zwer said:

I've got a pair of the black/indigo Onis on their way from BiG and a pair of Warehouse 900s on ice. It won't be exact science, but I'm going to do a test over the spring/summer. I reckon I'll wash the Warehouse every two weeks and not wash the Onis at all and see what happens.

Maybe it’s a better idea to wash Oni every 2 weeks and not washing warehouse at all... since warehouse have a denser and tighter weave than Oni so it’s pretty clear from the start warehouse is more durable. So by washing Oni instead of warehouse should give a more conclusive results 

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My oldest Flat Head shirt is a green western flannel I bought in December 2011. It's still going strong all these years later, with no noticeable wear anywhere, even though I estimate that I've worn it at least thirty times a year since then. My FH Chuck-style sneakers have been ridiculously durable, I've owned those for about five years, wore them five times a week for the first six months or so, and 1-2 times a week since then. They're definitely worn down but are still quite comfortable and have plenty of life left.

I did blow out the elbows on my FH denim shirt, though they've been good since Indigo Proof fixed them. Ditto for a sweet FH jacquard zip hoodie I have. 

As far as jeans go, the pairs of 3Sixteens I've worn have held up better than anything else. I think that a lot of that is due to the poly/cotton thread, sanforized fabrics, and washing every 2-3 months on average.

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44 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

As far as jeans go, the pairs of 3Sixteens I've worn have held up better than anything else. I think that a lot of that is due to the poly/cotton thread, sanforized fabrics, and washing every 2-3 months on average.

why would do you think sanforized fabrics be more durable? only reason i could think would be more regular fabric or less stress on the stitching caused by shrinking un-sanforized fabrics

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I would almost think sanforized fabrics to be weaker simply not because the fabric itself but because people tend to wear them without a wash and the starch still in the fabric. 

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Speaking of washing and drying methods, a multiple-part series here:

 

 

Edited by Iron Horse

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That is to say, to not wash one’s jeans would indeed be barbaric. ^_^

Edited by Iron Horse

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I think I need to remove glue the next time I wash my denim.

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So, a few post back in the TCB thread I promised to test what some Japanese blokes do, to put starch on the selvedge post wash pre putting them in the dryer. This to get better train tracks. 

How they looked pre wash (at one soak, three 40c and one 50c wash)

 

B9C2DD96-1715-4962-AF18-34F2BFA145D5.jpeg

Putting spray starch on.

3EDE865C-91A7-442C-9CBE-43607FCE1253.jpeg

Post wash.

53ACC4A7-3AC2-439C-91FB-5FE56A378AC4.jpeg

This was their first full trip in the dryer so I can’t tell if it’s because of this or the spray starch or a combo of both but the train tracks sure got bubblier and the yoke has much more puckering. Not very scientific I know.

Edited by Spiraltoy

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just a slight difference when done this much down the way with a worn in pair. 

for max results you should do it with a new pair, and most of all apply liquid starch rather than spray.

I've done the same experiment, with the same kind of products, and even the same pair of jeans about 1 year ago, same results. Will do it again with a newer pair.

 

 

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30 minutes ago, kbuzz said:

Why does he recccomed max water?

that's a good bit of advice actually, to avoid weird folding creases.

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Haha, we follow each other on IG. He's kinda a Japanese ultra-nationalist though. Those are scary dudes. 

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1 hour ago, itsbenhere said:

How do you know he is?

His profile used to mention it too. Current one is a bit more toned down.

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Ok guys so what really happens if you throw your jeans in the dryer and tumble dry on the highest warm setting?

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 I was gonna do that a couple days ago but chickened out. Shame on me.

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It shrinks a lot more and....that's really it. Fabric tends to feel a lot softer and brings out of the hairs so it does feel...I guess fluffier is the best way to describe it. I've done with plenty with jeans inside out, with other clothes, and I try to flatten some of the bigger creases before it goes in if possible. 

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