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bartlebyyphonics

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bartlebyyphonics last won the day on January 25

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About bartlebyyphonics

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  1. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    current status of the package...
  2. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    apologies for reposting (have posted a version of this already in the thread) but some kind of stitch comparisons possible here for both color and size: some waist bands of jackets and jeans positions top down: triple pleat, 1915, type i, 1944 if i remember paul t correctly; thread is specifically re-created for each model?
  3. Land of the Lowrising Sun

    ok, so sorry if making this more of an 'ol pix dump thread but some top blocks have found recently an elliot erwitt image dated from 1954 (lovely type I and II evident as well as soaring high rise on the left) then some retro geez from an i-d magazine straight-up page in 1989, wearing 50s vintage is my presumption... (full page shot to give some context, then close up): not showing because of any 'classic great fit' claim: more thinking uk retro denim culture and jeans in circulation pre-osaka 5
  4. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    just for stitching reference lvc 1944 bought this summer (pretty bright) lvc 1915 again; recent purchase (a little more demure, but still more brash than the triple pleats threads)
  5. What are your jeans doing today?

    ^ nice looking trip i was looking at the very same 1st pat-rn waistcoat at kafka... nice choice! and yes, the young ones... keep your head in the train pls...
  6. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    to keep thread bumped and cheery and elegant and emphatic a ‘wear did I go’ post v&a, london last days of the showing of cristobal balenciaga’s frocks and influences notable for innovations in pattern cutting and play with volumetrics (influenced by both kimonos, but also by the clothing of male priests – an interesting fact that such innovations of dress in were not just futurist visions, nor orientalist appropriations, but emerge from anachronist gender fluidity – to re-instate the authoritarive man’s dress of the 1600s for the socialite of the 1960s…) such designs feeding kawakubo and the like pix related then, for more macho fare to the ever popular samurai stall to look at war-like underwear (a samurai’s loincloths and man-bra, who’d a thought it… perhaps momotaro will develop for their ‘going-to-war’ strand) then early 20th century kimonos with indigo dye and then a pattern by moriguchi kunihiko, from 1987, developed with free-hand paste resist techniques – the sprinkling of rice-paste, or makinori, creates the effect and then to continue the cosmopolitan heritage melange: went to a local japanese-cuisine canteen style restaurant accompanied by chinese tv (which reminds me, happy almost new year to our eastern compadres in case i dont post nearer the time) then todays trousers, tender 130, whilst waiting for the 20s return, drifting between erlebnis and erfahrung: the transitory and inchoate experience vs the socially meaningful one…
  7. Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    just call it love (without gender designation only denim designation) oh how the freaks live...
  8. Land of the Lowrising Sun

    speaking with far less experience than most here but trying on some sda 'mid-rise' pairs in the past is the stuff of nightmares... i never go below a 12" front rise (which the tcb50s and tender pairs i have hit) however, current favourite front rise size: 13" (of current rotation: the lvc 1915 and 1944 hit that sweet spot) but I'm relatively tall (6'2") and like a bit of movement (a 10.5" rise makes me shudder)
  9. How many pairs of jeans do you own?

    ^ omfg quite the list 2 questions if i may: roy slapper? and favorite 1930s cut from this?
  10. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    with missed post-office last week opportunity taken a last wash for politeness last pix (for real this time) slub rain hard goodbyes all bagged up and sent to cat heaven wishing hajime inoue many tcb victories for the future
  11. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    ^^ and there i was thinking it meant 'really on the ball' shiiiiiiite but that it is the case...
  12. Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

    i was gonna go for ingambatissimo but that is limit of my google-italian
  13. Waywt 2018 (denim version)

    @Cucoo 76! 76! 76! would never have thought i would chant such a thing but 76! 76! 76! (for me, debating to wait for '37 or go for '33) ps 76!
  14. TCB

    nice looking fit! you can also paste the BBCode for the image into your post (selecting the image as 'huge thumbnail' is a way to stop it being TOO big) and then you get an image on the thread...
  15. Denime 66xx World Tour

    good luck with the thesis and tattoo developments in solidarity; reading these recently... quite enjoying the intensity of tim dean's research [see also leo bersani for other focault-lacan oscillations] quite a thorough freudian-lacanian... and the katz text comes from a fashion institute of technology show called a queer history of fashion; not really queer per se, but ok better, if ever doing fashion related: geczy & karaminas, queer style is good, finding them citing eve kosofsky sedgwick: queer is “continuing movement, motive – recurrent, eddying, troublant. The word ‘queer’ itself means across… keenly, it is relational and strange” - from her tendencies [also they do a good chapter on the origin of johann winckelmann and the homoerotic origins of the relatively contemporary notion of the classical] if looking at art side of things; this recent collection exists: https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/queer paul b preciado's testo junkie is also a text that has really done the recent rounds... not read it, but it has been highly recommended...