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bartlebyyphonics last won the day on June 1

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  1. bartlebyyphonics


    thanks for the link @sven 20s def. wider through the whole leg than the 50s... def. wondering about the '37 shape they will do... the lvc '37 is quite trim [and the denim, whilst lovely is a tad to thin for my liking for such a slimmer fit] as I think is the warehouse model [which has chunkier fabric nonetheless] ... as a standard, I liked the fit, cut and top block of the sugar cane '37 model that @JMS posted in that thread very much ... in terms of back pockets they [tcb] look to be doing that nicely; to repost from the blog and to compare to other comparable models: sugar cane's current m.i.a. version... warehouse dd-1004 [which seem to be going full csf-style in terms of 'tulip' waist band area, and the angle of the pocket] then the full count version... [cutting out hissing at the back...] and then the original piece TCB are drawing from again:
  2. bartlebyyphonics


    ^ >chef's kiss<
  3. bartlebyyphonics

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    embrace the diaper!
  4. bartlebyyphonics


    feel like I am spamming their ig feed onto the board, so forgive me, but this was image hidden in the 'loom visit' post recently... been looking for a heavier weight '37 cut...
  5. bartlebyyphonics


    oh yes: granular detail and monster sleeves! huge! my experience with 20s jeans was shrinkage wasn't any better or worse than the 50s/40s...
  6. bartlebyyphonics


    spreadsheet analysis ftw! adding to yr numbers and comparisons, to note you are comparing a more washed garment with a OW [which will always shrink a little in my experience] which will only add drama to the variance: the OW measurements for your jacket from mcfly are this: "Size 44 Shoulder width 51.5 cm Width 60.0 cm Length 62.0 cm Sleeve length 61.0 cm" so the washes you have done have skimmed some bulk off... but the thrust of it remains the same: tcb still going for length in certain places whilst fw going for the grail of the true box fit [which lvc seem to do well too ... ] re: tcb pattern would def say the jump up from the size 48 to the 50 [which looks to be the one you are drawing from] is marked... for the 40/42/44/46/48 key numbers [for sleeve and 'dress length'] remain static but then it seems to leap. up when crossing the rubicon to the sz.50 [which seems to be a statistical expansion into oversize 'big boy fit'... I'd be happy with the 46 or 48, but those 50 number do look 'epic' ] the shoulder size as oversize def. chimes with the epic shoulders of the 'viktor's voice' 213 jacket which had huge shoulders [and massively wide arms too] but also massive 67cm overall length... a shorter length but 20s styling is indeed most welcome no experience with other tcb jackets except the s40, which def. has wide arms [but also only 1 panel construction so no taper just a straight tunnel] here's the shot of the 20s jacket [at sz.38 I think, sz.40+ are t-backs] that seems to suggest pretty big arm widths... but I reckon the 48 wouldn't work for your chest constraint and agreeing that the 50 is too much... and this is ryo wearing an over-sized fit in a sz.48 - sleeves look generous there too... off topic; but looking at the clutch cafe site on their warehouse type 1 dd-2001 [sold out] - that also seems to go with the 20s collars and rounded pocket flap [even though they are listing it as 30s/40s...] the numbers clutch give for this one [it seems to be on the warehouse site too, but no measurements] here are the numbers hinoya provide for their stock of warehouse 20s model [but seems to be raw numbers... check the sz.42 sleeve!] seems like there is a 20s-era type 1 rush post ww2 era overload [or am I just not aware enough of the shifting type 1 tides...]?
  7. bartlebyyphonics


    good to know! btw ... I happily wear a 48 in their s40s jacket, whilst fitting a 44 in lvc type 1, so their higher 40s numbers in jackets don't necessarily translate to 38=M, 40=L etc... the chest seems to be the spot that is narrowest, so working from there makes sense [normally I go from shoulders, but the chest seems like a good place to work from with this...]
  8. bartlebyyphonics


    looks like they are paying attention to the shorter jacket requests going on... the size chart for their new pattern of type 1; [still a touch long by around 1.5cm tbh [... edit; looking through freewheelers thread, seeing @MJF9's 1927 getting reposted; looked up their sizing; seems around 0.5 cm difference in their lengths; but fw doing a truer box shape; these numbers from tcb still hedging towards a mildly tubular box ... ] ...am approving of the new [older style] collar shape ... an image for cross reference re; collar and curved pocket flap [from denimseeker's draft book, in turn taken from mushroom vintage store...] - listed as a c.1928 version
  9. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    a report on may's uniform... triple bib no cuff w. dbl rolled sleeve ... orslow-tcb / lvc-tcb / tcb-oshkosh & lamarie suede r.mocs
  10. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    looks liek it! been away awhile, have come back to quite the page!
  11. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    boncoura (ftw) & orslow - nigel cabourn - attractions
  12. bartlebyyphonics

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    CONGRATS to the winners and to all who made the comp. the happy shiny place that it has been! here's to wearing good jeans now and in the future!
  13. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    oh Yass! what a Harrington! and generally my pants stay where there are, regardless of cuff age...
  14. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    some variations over the last few week of cuffed, uncuffed, layered and not so much... combinations of tender (132), tcb (s40s and overalls), aero, military / hunting vintage, orslow (pullover and 50s chore), redwing, attractions, etc. etc., ...
  15. bartlebyyphonics

    Shoes that look better with age...

    ^ most excellent!
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342