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bartlebyyphonics

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Everything posted by bartlebyyphonics

  1. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    very nice; was mentally dismissing the 30s jacket due to length, but seen here in comparison the monster front pocket gives a lot of character...
  2. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    iirc with the various comps. there has been a lot of blood, indigo, tears etc. shed over tcb sizing charts esp re; waist sizing... ... to which I repeat, the three pairs I have, after 18 months wear, washing, shrink, stretch, repeat; generally end up at their tag size; ie my pairs tagged at 38 waist end up 38" as are my w.36 which are now around 36" [maybe a little under] ... imo sizing down generally ends in tears; going to size, esp. w. a cinch is generally happiness... in more specific regards to yr comment; do compare their sizing charts; waist sizes run the same for 20s jeans and new 30s jeans... 20s jeans... the new 37s... [waist is the mostly same [with a .5cm tolerance] but thigh and fr.rise bigger...] for me: I am liking the big front jacket pocket of the 30s [and stitch overlap] very much; the dress length; less so; but it is giving us all options between around 62cm and 65cm between the 20s and 30s new models of jacket; I am very appreciative of this approach. edit: the other thing I appreciate, whilst their jeans pricing are creeping into the same orbit as warehouse [though still not as much], their jacket prices generally remain the same price as their jeans rather than a good 11,000 yen more... nor sure how they manage that...
  3. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    looks like the new 30s jacket and jeans are both up on their store-site now... [not sure it is 'open' yet as it says 'sold-out' - presuming not actually taking orders as yet] on a quick look through numbers; looks like the jacket matches the jeans; giving them two new type ones; one boxier, but lighter denim [the 20s model discussed last page] and one heavier denim but longer body [with a body same-is length as their 40s & 50s]; which gives them four different type 1's in their roster: a 213, a 20s, a 30s, a 40s [a tip of the fedora to fête them for that feat...] in terms of jeans; the numbers (which are always to be taken with a pinch of salt iirc) suggest mid-to large-ish rise (they say so explicitly in their description, numbers wise, a 33 front rise for the w.38 I always look at) but a full leg shape [a 38cm thigh is what they claim for that size] ... both the rise and thigh [thus fullness of leg] seems a smidge more generous than the 20s [but the rise not as huge as the s40s] the fits they show both seem on the generous side [which I approve of] but sharing this one as I think it show the rise to thigh ratio that is going on...
  4. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    thanks for the link @sven 20s def. wider through the whole leg than the 50s... def. wondering about the '37 shape they will do... the lvc '37 is quite trim [and the denim, whilst lovely is a tad to thin for my liking for such a slimmer fit] as I think is the warehouse model [which has chunkier fabric nonetheless] ... as a standard, I liked the fit, cut and top block of the sugar cane '37 model that @JMS posted in that thread very much ... in terms of back pockets they [tcb] look to be doing that nicely; to repost from the blog and to compare to other comparable models: sugar cane's current m.i.a. version... warehouse dd-1004 [which seem to be going full csf-style in terms of 'tulip' waist band area, and the angle of the pocket] then the full count version... [cutting out hissing at the back...] and then the original piece TCB are drawing from again:
  5. bartlebyyphonics

    Belts

    ^ >chef's kiss<
  6. bartlebyyphonics

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    embrace the diaper!
  7. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    feel like I am spamming their ig feed onto the board, so forgive me, but this was image hidden in the 'loom visit' post recently... been looking for a heavier weight '37 cut...
  8. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    oh yes: granular detail and monster sleeves! huge! my experience with 20s jeans was shrinkage wasn't any better or worse than the 50s/40s...
  9. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    spreadsheet analysis ftw! adding to yr numbers and comparisons, to note you are comparing a more washed garment with a OW [which will always shrink a little in my experience] which will only add drama to the variance: the OW measurements for your jacket from mcfly are this: "Size 44 Shoulder width 51.5 cm Width 60.0 cm Length 62.0 cm Sleeve length 61.0 cm" so the washes you have done have skimmed some bulk off... but the thrust of it remains the same: tcb still going for length in certain places whilst fw going for the grail of the true box fit [which lvc seem to do well too ... ] re: tcb pattern would def say the jump up from the size 48 to the 50 [which looks to be the one you are drawing from] is marked... for the 40/42/44/46/48 key numbers [for sleeve and 'dress length'] remain static but then it seems to leap. up when crossing the rubicon to the sz.50 [which seems to be a statistical expansion into oversize 'big boy fit'... I'd be happy with the 46 or 48, but those 50 number do look 'epic' ] the shoulder size as oversize def. chimes with the epic shoulders of the 'viktor's voice' 213 jacket which had huge shoulders [and massively wide arms too] but also massive 67cm overall length... a shorter length but 20s styling is indeed most welcome no experience with other tcb jackets except the s40, which def. has wide arms [but also only 1 panel construction so no taper just a straight tunnel] here's the shot of the 20s jacket [at sz.38 I think, sz.40+ are t-backs] that seems to suggest pretty big arm widths... but I reckon the 48 wouldn't work for your chest constraint and agreeing that the 50 is too much... and this is ryo wearing an over-sized fit in a sz.48 - sleeves look generous there too... off topic; but looking at the clutch cafe site on their warehouse type 1 dd-2001 [sold out] - that also seems to go with the 20s collars and rounded pocket flap [even though they are listing it as 30s/40s...] the numbers clutch give for this one [it seems to be on the warehouse site too, but no measurements] here are the numbers hinoya provide for their stock of warehouse 20s model [but seems to be raw numbers... check the sz.42 sleeve!] seems like there is a 20s-era type 1 rush post ww2 era overload [or am I just not aware enough of the shifting type 1 tides...]?
  10. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    good to know! btw ... I happily wear a 48 in their s40s jacket, whilst fitting a 44 in lvc type 1, so their higher 40s numbers in jackets don't necessarily translate to 38=M, 40=L etc... the chest seems to be the spot that is narrowest, so working from there makes sense [normally I go from shoulders, but the chest seems like a good place to work from with this...]
  11. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    looks like they are paying attention to the shorter jacket requests going on... the size chart for their new pattern of type 1; [still a touch long by around 1.5cm tbh [... edit; looking through freewheelers thread, seeing @MJF9's 1927 getting reposted; looked up their sizing; seems around 0.5 cm difference in their lengths; but fw doing a truer box shape; these numbers from tcb still hedging towards a mildly tubular box ... ] ...am approving of the new [older style] collar shape ... an image for cross reference re; collar and curved pocket flap [from denimseeker's draft book, in turn taken from mushroom vintage store...] - listed as a c.1928 version
  12. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    a report on may's uniform... triple bib no cuff w. dbl rolled sleeve ... orslow-tcb / lvc-tcb / tcb-oshkosh & lamarie suede r.mocs
  13. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    looks liek it! been away awhile, have come back to quite the page!
  14. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    boncoura (ftw) & orslow - nigel cabourn - attractions
  15. bartlebyyphonics

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    CONGRATS to the winners and to all who made the comp. the happy shiny place that it has been! here's to wearing good jeans now and in the future!
  16. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    oh Yass! what a Harrington! and generally my pants stay where there are, regardless of cuff age...
  17. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    some variations over the last few week of cuffed, uncuffed, layered and not so much... combinations of tender (132), tcb (s40s and overalls), aero, military / hunting vintage, orslow (pullover and 50s chore), redwing, attractions, etc. etc., ...
  18. bartlebyyphonics

    Shoes that look better with age...

    ^ most excellent!
  19. bartlebyyphonics

    Vintage clothing and footwear

    Asking is never impolite, if a seller claims it is they have something to hide... If someone can demonstrate the reality of a claim in my experience they never take umbrage but happily share concrete markers that define that thing...
  20. bartlebyyphonics

    Shoes that look better with age...

    seconded on the Alfred Sargent ... got married in one of their Derbys very similar to those trickers above ... here is their cap toe Oxford which is a neater affair than the viberg above... grenson 'g1' line does a decent variation too if feely formal proper proper dress shoes are wholecuts... the alfred sargent 'cuthbert' version, church's [who seem to have jacked their prices up a whole new notch of silly] version... and yes; worn Cheaney plenty enough to recommend...
  21. bartlebyyphonics

    Tender Co. Denim

    never had this trouble... worn four different pairs...
  22. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    ^ unironically, this... ^ and very much this... ^ and expectantly this... looks like a lot of life left in that pile...
  23. bartlebyyphonics

    Vintage clothing and footwear

    ^ lol, yup see some who tried the '00s comeback early... Vetements c.2016 for ss2017 collection bringing back noughties velour trackies via Juicy Couture, also doing fairly decent apron dress in collaboration with Carhartt in same collection... and in terms of Champion sweats return, they were in on that early on too... plus from same collection, another Champion look... I'd def. say the youngers around this way are still mining the skaggy polyester big jeans '90s vibe and yet to fully grab the gel laden peacockery found in the '00s NSync toolkit...
  24. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    interesting film about a world with no children if you haven't seen it... but then again, this book has interesting premise about the heteronormative assumption that children are the bedrock and endpoint of social activity / the social bond certainly '#save the children' has been used to perverted ends by pizzagate and Qanon conspiracy theorists [enough to make one question any knee jerk reaction to children as metaphor of innocent future in current popular discourse, let alone the weaponised use of 'family values' in Thatcher/Reagan/Jesse Helms era ...] & @Double 0 Soul - this book on mushrooms that has been doing the 'anthropocene' critical theory rounds & @CSL - look great; really nice post wash, and really good with a good donkey puncher...
  25. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    I understand no wearing shoes indoors [and keeping boots in an elevated position to avoid lockdown puppy chew damage is my guess] ... b-b-but what about the indoor wearing of a hat b'gad! [I do keep shoes near desk as strange object-fetish at times: at certain times can only type when wearing certain shoes, but hey... and I do type this wearing a cap, indoors, but I do think, akin to @JMS the boots look like they might be being prepped for becoming-flowerpot treatment...]
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

    silver-nose-plaster.jpgshow?id=gf39VV*YhHg&bids=818443.18799516