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So, after reading a bit more about it (I found the Junky Style and the Select Shop Sunday blogs especially informative) I think there are the following denim fabrics now (besides some lighter ones for Navy work pants):

1. Banner denim- 13.75oz

2. Memphis - 14.5oz

and introduced in the recent years:

3. DSB- Dead stock blue
this apparently can be recognized by the pink selvedge-
it comes in two different kinds:
a) 7.5 x 7.5 (13.5 oz) and
b) 6.7 x 6.6 (14 oz sometimes referred to as 14.5 oz)
The DSB was described by one of the founding Shiotani brothers as there is "nothing above it", i.e. it's the ultimate, that can be created in new vintage-like denim.

4. New WWII denim (this seems to sometimes get called new denim or WWII denim or new WWII denim)
This can be recognized by the orange selvedge.
6.7 x 6.6 (ca. 14oz, sometimes described as 14.5oz).

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, scooby said:

Sorry but I have a good excuse... there was no way I could commit to these if I couldn't wear my @Duke Mantee belt


Am going to try my best and wear these a good chunk of the year

What model are these Scoobs? They look 1920's?

I wear my 1922's with my Duke belt - l specifically chose a lighter/thinner leather to be more comfortable when worn over the brace buttons. It's perfect!


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8 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Did you add the belt loops yourself or have l missed something? (.. as usual :laugh2:). 


Haha! That is precisely what I was getting at

I couldn't convince myself to commit to a pair that couldn't wear a nice belt with. Admittedly not a huge fan of wearing suspenders either 

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11 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

I need a general Warehouse advice please - since I don’t own any trousers/jeans from WH, do they usually shrink to tag size? Feel free to share your experience. 

I have the 1001 in Banner Denim (~13.5oz) and the 800 in 14.5oz denim, both size 36 and purchased unsanforized. Pre-soak waist measurements were around 37” using the BiG method. Both pairs measured ~34.5” after a hot soak and cold machine wash, so roughly 2”-2.5” of shrink at the waist. Both stretch back to tag size/36”, the Banner Denim easily, the 14.5oz denim with a bit of difficulty, about a week’s worth of uncomfortable wear. 

Keep an eye on the inseam length measurement, too. I got 2.5”-3” of inseam shrink with soak/wash routine mentioned above. 

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