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Duke Mantee

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Duke Mantee last won the day on July 14

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About Duke Mantee

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    gangster
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    cynical

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  1. Duke Mantee

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    Regardless of your style John ‘Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.’
  2. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    I can’t answer a ‘sized up’ query based on not knowing what size you are - but the jacket fits true to FW norm, it’s not a slim cut nor is it oversized for layering purposes. I’m a 40 in most and that’s what I’d order (I have the original version from some years back)
  3. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I have both in 9.5 - I’d say the engineer fits marginally bigger than the m43
  4. Bobby Gillespie wearing Nudie a la Gram Parsons … I remember having pints with The Jesus and Mary Chain when he was the drummer …
  5. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    Here’s said ‘fact’ https://clickamericana.com/eras/1900s/unlikely-history-of-levis-jeans I’ve not bothered to try and verify (like most stuff most folk read), it’s just something I’ve found browsing the interweb and may or may not be nonsense. Hopefully @Dr_Heech can verify the details. It’d be interesting to know the reality if this is made up bullcrap.
  6. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    Aye, a ‘fact’ I read somewhere about or by Levi’s. I’ll see if I can find it again. What would that be? Maybe 1500 pairs on a 12 hour shift? Hopefully you can give me better details but the purpose was to demonstrate the difference in scale. And I totally agree with the trainees, mixtures of components etc, but I still think even a trainee being pushed (by necessity or greed) in production will find a way to become efficient quickly and that brings consistency. I’ve seen that in every type of business, including the offices I ran.
  7. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Same denim - different dying and thread types. Frankly if anyone can tell the difference between any of the 601 (excluding war denim) without closely inspecting them side by side is doing amazingly well
  8. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    I’m surprised no one takes much notice of denim styles beyond the 60s … and even the 60s stuff that is looked at is fairly limited.
  9. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    Thank you. Yes, I think it is relevant to other eras too. I guess the focus was just on war denim given the popularity over the last few years. If nothing else perhaps manufacturers (and buyers) are becoming more focused as to what genuine reproduction should be?
  10. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    As I’ve told others - you should be wearing these with the hem sitting on the ankle touching your shoe. Cuffs weren’t allowed as per the War Production Board via Executive Order 9024 signed by FDR in 1942
  11. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    I think there’s something right and something wrong with that. It’s a scale issue fundamentally. CSF makes a pair each day (I dunno, I’m just guessing) but Levi’s factories were producing a pair every 30 seconds. Point here is that a machinist repeating a task hundreds of times quickly is more likely to find efficiency through consistency. The variations then would be that each machinist would be slightly different to his/her colleagues making the same part. As I said elsewhere the cutting would have an influence because the machinist would be working to join parts that don’t match the way they should, but the repro folks have never figured that or decided it’s too difficult to account for so they focus on the ‘wonky-ness’ of stitching because it’s easier, then screw it up by using excellent machinists in good conditions making jeans ‘slowly’ giving them too much time to think about their ‘mistakes’
  12. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    I’d have thought Sugar Cane would have been the first decent stab at war denim - @Double 0 Soul is your best bet probably. Real McCoys is a possibility but IMO their S003 are not great. Those FOB Factory don’t look great either. Freewheelers tried the ‘wonky’ stitching too, again not amongst their best. The challenge with reproducing war denim is understanding the whole manufacturing process to make them look as they would have been. Wonky stitching is only part of the picture and from what I’ve seen only CSF capture the atmosphere, most others seem to find it difficult to capture that feeling.
  13. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    They look the business - glad you eventually got sorted
  14. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Lofgren only have a single stitch on the welt
  15. Duke Mantee

    Superdenim community sale thread

    Can’t believe these haven’t sold
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

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