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Duke Mantee

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Everything posted by Duke Mantee

  1. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Yeah they stretch out quite a bit
  2. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    That’s exactly what they are @Robroy - but you can also get or adjustable versions or sometimes I use an awl or craftknife
  3. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Thank you sir My machine is my left arm connected to a rawhide hammer and my right hand connected to a little fork like this … it’s a flexible machine because it allows me to swap hands
  4. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    ^ better!
  5. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    Just realised I’ve not posted on this thread for a bit … Bootleggers Wavy and Lot 213, Freewheelers Jesse and Lot 601xx 1951, Tender and White’s
  6. Duke Mantee

    The wabash / Stifel thread

    Stifel made more than just wabash …
  7. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Well if you’re being picky, they also issued a 1910 model in 2009 1930s version was a different cut (rightly so) - looser silhouette, wider sleeves, shorter length, no flap pockets (as you note), squared collar … but I doubt there would be much difference in warmth, the shell is doing the work here.
  8. Duke Mantee

    Unknown Japanese Brands

    You don’t pay consumption tax so the coat is ¥36,000 - that’s about €280 I think. Also I’d estimate shipping to be around €35 using EMS. Hiroyoshi is (was) very flexible too, so I never had any customs ‘issues’
  9. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    They’ve been reissuing this every 2 or 3 years … and you couldn’t blame them, it’s one of the best coats I’ve ever owned
  10. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    One thing I’ve found with studs/spots is the accurate placing is both straightforward and difficult … the plans I make are very precise but leather isn’t a precise material. I’ve never been one to focus on something being so perfect that it becomes soulless but at the same time I hate sloppy work, so I try to walk the line by accepting the odd small misalignment if the whole thing looks/feels right. This vintage belt is fine but I’d be annoyed if I was this inaccurate …
  11. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    @Thanks_M8 I’m certainly no master but I enjoy pulling the designs together and turning them into real belts. I’ve not really thought about the time in hours, and I tend not to try and finish in a rush, but I guess I could complete one in a couple of days without interruption. It really would depend on complexity and the leathers. Personally I’m less interested in stitching and/or embossing - stitching doesn’t bring me the same enjoyment, much as I appreciate the skill involved, and embossing is an art form if done by hand and not simply passing a strap though a machine. But I’d be very keen to see what you come up with.
  12. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Thank you very much
  13. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    On denim (Freewheelers naturally) … I always draw out the plan so there’s better understanding/visualisation
  14. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Snake Eyes 9oz Water Buffalo Leather Cobra inlays Standard Rivet vintage brass spots in 3mm and 4.5mm sizes Standard Rivet vintage brass jewel rings in 9mm and 11mm sizes Antique glass (1950s) jewels ~ 9mm in Siam and Topaz, 11mm in Amethyst Japanese brass buckle with hand patination Japanese vintage coin (Karasu 1 Sen, 1938) 90% copper, 10% zinc
  15. Duke Mantee

    Colimbo / Hinson

    There’s been a little bit on interest in this brand in the Unknown Japanese Brands topic so I thought it maybe it’s worth opening a thread specifically for the brand - they have been going for quite a few years and, at least from my own experience, make some really nice clothes. There seems to 2 main brands 1. Colimbo- which concentrates on the clothing side; a wide variety of influences inc. military, hunting and workwear through the last century 2. Hinson - which concentrates on accessories; small leather good and bags (totes, tool bags etc.) made canvas and/or leather The official website is here And their Instagram account is here A lot of the familiar Japanese retailers stock Colimbo - the dealer list is on the website, and perhaps a few folk might be comforted to know some of their stuff in made by the same factory that makes some of Freewheelers stuff … And a few of their products:
  16. Duke Mantee

    Colimbo / Hinson

    @Broark Connections only insofar as many different brands share factories for production. I’m sure Rainbow Country leathers are made in the same factory as FW leathers. Be careful though - two brands being made in the same location doesn’t mean the same quality. I’ve spoken to the factory owner that does Colimbo / FW / ANOther and he’s very clear about the differences - fabric choices, patterns, even not being allowed to use his own stock threads etc. create quite different garments.
  17. Duke Mantee

    Colimbo / Hinson

    It was a really nice piece - the outer shell is/was much softer than the FW or RMC equivalents … and the hood was actually comfortable and useful. These seem to sell out really fast when they’re issued.
  18. Duke Mantee

    Colimbo / Hinson

    A couple of blasts from the past
  19. Duke Mantee

    Warehouse

    You’re right … a rivet that only has one side is more or less useless
  20. Duke Mantee

    Unknown Japanese Brands

    I’m not a big fan of Barbour - they’re a bit underwhelming re cut/pattern and not always that well made, although they’re made for a specific purpose and they’ll cope with that far better than this replica. Colimbo make some lovely stuff - I’ve owned enough of it - but unfortunately this isn’t one of them IMO
  21. Duke Mantee

    Unknown Japanese Brands

  22. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    It suits you - you’re obviously a natural. Congratulations and enjoy every sleepless minute
  23. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    @bartlebyyphonics neat, neat, neat
  24. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    @Flash - I think it’s thank YOU mate - a very patient test bed for me … not as demanding as others said about you, in fact I could even understand your accent … Wear it in good health
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