Duke Mantee

Given the strength and durability of a saddle stitch I would suggest it is better placed in a boot than a wallet - I think what we see then is actually how business efficiency (time=money) has convinced us that a handmade boot doesn’t need to be saddle stitched. It used to be a bespoke suit was entirely hand stitched but it’s now not uncommon to find that long seam lines are now machine stitched … it’s still handmade because the rules of engagement have changed to suit the landscape. It’s really not a discussion about quality as such - more the confusion that arises when a customer can’t understand why item A is $X but item B is 3x $X … because item A has a few finishing stitches done by hand and item B is everything done by hand and both ‘legitimately’ claim handmade status. I see it here fairly often - and mostly centred around footwear and larger leather items.

What are you currently wearing?

I like Guidi leathers - they have a nice finish generally Is the belt all horse or backed by cowhide? I like the stitching too

You’re absolutely right - there is no real correct answer. I disagree about sewing the uppers though. For me they should be handsewn; we do it for bags, wallets, belts etc so there’s no reason in my mind that uppers can’t be handsewn. Soles and heels are very difficult so shaping down a heel with a sander could be argued as still being handmade. I think the thing that bothers me most is the businesses are rather disingenuous about what handmade can mean - so really it’s the lack of integrity rather than the lack of skill, because as I’ve said before it takes no little skill to be a good machinist

Tell me more @l13902733261 - your vintage buckle?

I’m seconding @chicote here - it’s no mean feat (geddit?) to make footwear from scratch, especially as complex as this. There aren’t many boots I ever seen that are handmade (lots of makers are happy to say handmade when they’re really not), so it’s great to see this

Yeah from the pic mate … but I had something in my mind, some vague memory this had been stated somewhere (maybe another forum). Plus his album was ‘63 and the 551 were ‘61/62? Anyway I was hoping/wondering if the pic maybe jogged a memory

… he came up in some other chat but this Bob Dylan shot from his Freewheelin’ album is a classic. Maybe doc or some other luminary might confirm or otherwise but are these 551ZXX?

… just trying to speed up the patina for you mate 😉

For @MJF9 - a Wickett & Craig ‘American Vachetta’ rough out with a solid brass buckle that’s been sanded and re-polished to allow the metal to oxidise very quickly.

Great value for money compared to the bulk of their peers Sadly I don’t think they are still in operation (could be wrong)

Best arcs EVER

We recognise each clan by their tartan

WW2 fabric … new thread though

Just iPhone pics at the moment - but here’s what Neal made me with the tools in it. It’s not a tool rack … it’s the best piece of furniture we’ve got in the house. It looks and feels mid-century as Neal said, it smells lovely and I ab-so-fucking-lutely love it Wood is such a tactile material and when you’ve got someone who understands it so well then you can only end up with a beautiful object

I vaguely remember something like that - good chance it was JPG The quality of shoe available around that time was really good. I had these (90s Bikkembergs) and wore them to death … loved them: … and these were the shoes I mentioned earlier but mine had a buckle strap (similar to engineer boots as I said)

Not quite but point here, I’d say, is there were a few similar ideas floating about … which is always the case regardless of era / fashion / style

Fuck no … I was much too trendy to be doing that

I remember the MA-1 as the weapon of choice for skinheads … that was well before the 90s though. I still associate the jacket with that period and I’ve disliked it intensely since then. However, come the 80s / early 90s I was hanging out ‘The Warehouse’ shop quite a bit. They were selling (IMO) the most amazing clothes and (JPG, Vivienne Westwood, ‘Antwerp 6’, etc) and Gaultier introduced his ‘Junior’ range - it was his take on streetwear … jeans, denim jacket variants and I bought a few pieces. I don’t have pics and can’t find much online but my favourite outfit was a pair of shoes that engineer boots with the shaft removed, black Junior Gaultier jeans and a hybrid MA1 (sleeves - black) / Type 3 (body - burgundy) jacket. This was the one of the other variants which was short body MA1

The boss man of FW

I’ve seen quite a few Filson vests that are similar - but simpler. I like the pocket variety on yours better. Also here’s the Baker vest by Freewheelers from winter 2011 The FW Sasquatch takes things quite a big step forward … but the variety of vests, complex or otherwise, they produce from all the materials you’ve noted (without forgetting beachcloth and others) is quite impressive

Silver plate ranger buckle set (actually a headstall buckle set), vintage 50s glass jewels, antique brass studs all built on J&FJ Baker bridle leather … the tallow is untouched (as best possible)

For some the cinch can be uncomfortable with a belt

Wow! let me tell you guys something … @Double 0 Soul asked me what payment I wanted for the leather on his headphones; I couldn’t say and anyway it was a fun project for a mate - I got to do something different and I learned a bit more … so casually (and rather thoughtlessly I now realise) I said to Neal to make me a little tool rack. It was a thoughtless request because: 1. I should never forget Neal doesn’t do anything by halves; 2. This means that instead of a glued balsa wood assembly I was thinking of, he goes out and does what you see here I am blown away and suitably embarrassed

🙏