Duke Mantee

It was FW choice. Sushi doesn’t agree with the ‘wonky’ stitching for much the same reason I do. It did exist, it always had, albeit new factories and therefore new operatives (as Doc rightly says) caused some issues which subsequently settled as those operatives gained experience. Control standards were certainly lower because Levi’s were coining it in with increased output but as with every process a level of equilibrium is established. I just think brands are looking for extreme examples to make their mark. In any event FW didn’t see any reason to ask a high quality factory to produce low quality work so there was only a nod to the ‘wonkiness’ … that from the factory owner.

Gold rep

😂 NEVER!

I don’t think it was ever something I loved or hated, but those old discussions are old and that just reinforces my lack of enjoyment for what’s being made now. We’ve seen it done … and probably done better. It’s a tough one though, because every label just want to sell their product and if war denim and that era is the thing they want to push then who am I to complain? After all I make a mean 30s-40s belt 😉

Honestly, I’m just seeing these exaggerated ‘machinist errors’ as a bit of a joke now. Every new effort seems to want to outdo the last one. I know I have a slightly different view to how this ‘poor quality’ might have manifested itself originally but these modern iterations just don’t convey the spirit of wartime efforts - more like they are ‘ripping the arse out of it’* *reproduced from The Dictionary of Modern Scottish Language (current edition)

I’ve not spoken to Seiichiro so maybe that’s the case mate - I just remember seeing something in the catalog Regardless, in the matter of shrinkage, no matter what version of denim I’ve ever had (which is all of them except this - potentially) has ever experienced residual shrinkage of any concern. So that’s the question to follow up with Seiichiro.

I’m pretty sure it’s the same denim as the s601

My war denim was non-wash … which shrank to size and stayed there after more washing. All one-wash FW I have had never shrank noticeably with repeated washes, the usual ‘tightening’ and stiffness from freshly laundered denim aside. I doubt very much there would be significant variation.

Freewheelers Lot K470 blanket lined Wabash - size 40 Freewheelers make the best Wabash bar none … this is a true scientific fact Happy to listen to fair offers

The road to hell is paved with good intentions. I like the rep system - very often I’ll use the green, regularly the yellow (gold?) and infrequently the red; but I almost never use the blue because I’m not sure what it represents so in many cases rather than liking or disliking a post a ‘blue’ post will more likely drive me to comment. Unfortunately comments can be misinterpreted … I suppose a bit like a blue rep

🙏

Thanks Doc

Honey I shrunk the fanny pack About 2/3 of the version above - Walpier Buttero and Walpier Box leathers, AustriAlpin ‘Cobra’ hardware, Japanese twill lining and a drawstring bag with the remnants of the fabric

He’s a good guy - but he’s cycled through some amount of clothing. Items seem to be getting sold weeks after purchase 🤷‍♂️

Most patches are ‘designed’ fit some shrinkage … ie it’ll be fine when you follow washing instructions (40°C would be the upper normal) I boil washed (90°C) the bootleggers denim jacket and the leather shrank to about 2/3 size. Leather isn’t a woven material and depending on the tannage has the potential to shrink enormously.

Steamrollers left - someone must be wise enough to snap these up

Sorry mate - they’ve sold

Remind me your waist size please?

These are ancient mate - the tag says they could be 2002 (although the same number was used right up to 2009) but effectively you’re delving into the genesis of Bootleggers after the Toys McCoys departure They are somewhere between the 47s and 51s in fit

I’m actually surprised there’s no interest (so far) in the Steamrollers and USN Work Trousers. The Steamrollers are brilliantly made and the USN trews are one of the best repros I’ve seen. Both from when FW really focused on making the factories work for their money

… and the Steamrollers - size 32x34. 10oz denim - washed, never worn

Here’s the 43s - size 33x34, washed never worn SOLD

USN Work Trousers SOLD

Bootleggers Reunion jeans SOLD

Vintage steel buckle, brass hardware, cobra and moonstone