SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[ColonelAngus]

How can I tell if my MiUSA wedge sole moc toe boots have a good year welt? My understanding is that with a good year welt you’d see the stitching on the sole of the shoe/boot. But what about wedge soles? 

[Duke Mantee]

9 hours ago, ColonelAngus said:

How can I tell if my MiUSA wedge sole moc toe boots have a good year welt? My understanding is that with a good year welt you’d see the stitching on the sole of the shoe/boot. But what about wedge soles? 

If it’s a Goodyear welt then the upper is lasted between the welt and the insole so you don’t see stitching on the sole. The stitching you do see on the sole is the sole stitch. No idea what your boots are or what the sole is but I’d guess this wedge is glued on.

[julian-wolf]

Regardless of construction style, most stitched boots with wedge soles stitch to a midsole and then glue the wedge on to the midsole

[UkeNo]

Baker pants…

Was interested in the navy/ Egg Plant Freewheelers Military Utility trousers but can’t find any in 32 or 34  

missed the TCB baker pants pre order too  

Anyone have a link for something similar? Warehouse and UES pairs look to be good. Any recommendations? Stores? 
 

thanks. 

[Toegun]

Samurai do a nice pair of baker pants. I got mine from denimio for a good price 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

21 hours ago, UkeNo said:

Baker pants…

Was interested in the navy/ Egg Plant Freewheelers Military Utility trousers but can’t find any in 32 or 34  

missed the TCB baker pants pre order too  

Anyone have a link for something similar? Warehouse and UES pairs look to be good. Any recommendations? Stores? 
 

thanks. 

tropthy clothing has a nice version. not sure if their in stock now but yahoo auctions used to have a bunch of them. Worth looking into I think.

[vlad_III]

Are there any Japanese black weft and warp denim jackets?

I’m looking for either a type 3 or a type 1 ww2 without the pocket flap. 

thanks 

[Thanks_M8]

^FW did one, I think. Also sugar cane? TCB? 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Sugar Cane certainly did the Type3 in their blackxblack denim but I'm not sore if it's a standard product readily available.

[vlad_III]

32 minutes ago, Thanks_M8 said:

^FW did one, I think. Also sugar cane? TCB? 

FW made a black type 2. Haven’t seen a black type 1 from them, but if they had it it’s almost certainly unavailable now. I’ll check TCB. Thanks 

[vlad_III]

31 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Sugar Cane certainly did the Type3 in their blackxblack denim but I'm not sore if it's a standard product readily available.

Thanks. SC black denim looks nice. I’ll look out for that. 

[Abochka]

Hello all, 

Does anyone know who would make a pair of jeans with my own fabric? I got a bolt of, what is supposedly denim from Nimes, circa 1880…I tried Viapiana but he said he won’t work with fabric that’s not his 

[CSL]

Years ago I had repairs done at Denim Revival in LA. Looks like they're still open.

The woman was also making jeans from scratch. Might be worth a try.

http://denimrevival.us

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

14 hours ago, Abochka said:

Hello all, 

Does anyone know who would make a pair of jeans with my own fabric? I got a bolt of, what is supposedly denim from Nimes, circa 1880…I tried Viapiana but he said he won’t work with fabric that’s not his 

Either way, keep us updated. It sounds very interesting and I would love to see pictures of the results. 

[MJF9]

15 hours ago, Abochka said:

Hello all, 

Does anyone know who would make a pair of jeans with my own fabric? I got a bolt of, what is supposedly denim from Nimes, circa 1880…I tried Viapiana but he said he won’t work with fabric that’s not his 

You could ask Super Stitch in Paris

[Broark]

11 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

You could ask Super Stitch in Paris

It might just cost well over €1000.

[Maynard Friedman]

Sorry to be sceptical but how confident are you that the bolt of denim was made in Nimes 140 years ago? I know a little of the history of serge de Nimes but did they make denim (as we know it now) there back then? What are its characteristics? 2x1 weave? Indigo warp and ecru/natural weft? 100% cotton? Where did you acquire it? Please tell us more, this is the kind of thing we all love.

[Abochka]

Thank you all so much for the suggestions guys, I will try them and report back, I greatly appreciate it! 
 

@Maynard Friedman I’m also skeptical lol. I got them from a very reputable vintage textile dealer, 200 bucks, 4.5 yards x 18 inches width cut from a bolt of 9 yards originally. I will upload pics once I get it, should be later this week. To be honest, I want to believe it SO much that I asked the dealer and got the reply of, “35 years in the industry, fabric historian, uses various factors to determine, etc.” Not a ton of specifics. I wrote her back to ask much more specific questions and let her know that many, many denim fanatics are curious about the answers. Will keep y’all posted. 

[julian-wolf]

@Maynard Friedman I don’t know anything about the specific history, but I figure Nimes must have been making indigo-on-white twills (cotton or linen, 2x1 or 3x1) since at least the early- or mid-1800s for the fabric to have picked up the “de Nimes” moniker by the time it was being produced in the US in the 1880s…

[JDelage]

Would indigo dye used in Nimes at that time come from woad?

[MJF9]

I assume using higher dryer heat will shrink jeans more... but have never tested it. Does it? Anyone got experience?

Then... anyone used a launderette / laundromat for drying their jeans? It's a big old drum so any problems with a single pair of jeans bouncing around in there on a high heat?

Will hot dried jeans just stretch back out anyway, making it a pointless (but entertaining) experiment?

Edited September 1, 2023 by MJF9

[Duke Mantee]

I washed a FW denim jacket at 90°C - shrank about a half size tops and utterly destroyed the patch. Waste of time IMO - if the weave is loose you’ll get more shrinkage but it’ll change the hand of the fabric probably irreversibly 

[Duke Mantee]

On 8/30/2023 at 6:54 PM, JDelage said:

Would indigo dye used in Nimes at that time come from woad?

Possibly - France (and Germany) outlawed imported indigo … Henry VI ordered the death penalty for anyone defying his edict but the bans were lifted a couple of centuries later - indigo was better for big business even then. But woad was still popular in local/cottage industries so who knows?

Edited September 2, 2023 by Duke Mantee

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

The only jeans I’ve really cooked were my indigofera’s which are vanity sized more than any other brand I’ve encountered. My 29’s were like 2” too big!  I bought from a shop that claimed they were unsanforized, so I anticipated some shrinkage from initial measurements, but got very little, maybe about 2-3% from raw. I cooked them to hell in the washer and dryer, and got maybe another 1-2% - only after they’d been trashed my toddler and I gave no consideration to traditional fading anymore - I figured I’d at least try to see if I could get them to fit a little better. It did change the character of the denim a bit still, and not in a way that I like but is probably best associated with whatever comes to mind when one thinks of “dad jeans.” 

I knew that pair was sacrificial at that point so I’m fine with it but in general, I don’t usually dry my jeans - nor do I really put most good clothes through a dryer. I just try really hot water or more aggressive washes if I want more shrink because I just don’t like what a dryer does. If I’m desperate then maybe the dryer is used but it’s on the lowest possible temperature. It’s just a big energy use and shortens fabric life.  

Anyways, to sum up - would not recommend unless the pair is something you don’t much care for. Far as stretching back out, like most shrinkage, only happens in particular places. If thighs are too small you’re in trouble. 

[MJF9]

@AlientoyWorkmachine thanks for the insights!  Having little patience, I took a punt - deets over on the Denime thread.

[bloom]

Anyone know where to find a decent indigo scarf? There were some beautiful ones made with African indigo a few years back, I seem to recall, and, I think, very nice ones from  some American outfit that I would never buy jeans from. But can’t seem to find any now. Vintage would certainly be of interest, too. 

[Maynard Friedman]

^ The Hillside made one, among other colours, a few (well, probably 10+) years back. You may be lucky and track one down.

[MJF9]

William has a selection of scarfs including an indigo dyed one - link

Would be cool to buy some Buaisou fabric (when back in stock!) to make a scarf (easy job methinks)

Edited September 3, 2023 by MJF9

[MJF9]

6 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ The Hillside made one, among other colours, a few (well, probably 10+) years back. You may be lucky and track one down.

I have a wabash one from Hillside - I can deffo recommend if you can find one 

[Maynard Friedman]

I have the violet, hickory stripe and charcoal/black versions and can definitely recommend!