bloom

Nice, congrats. The loden looks lovely, and really caught my eye when browsing Dehen’s site. Would have been my first choice, if it had been available from any of the places where it’s convenient for me to order from. But it wasn’t, so I went with the charcoal one. Upside is it pairs easily with green trousers of all shades, as well as jeans or khakis…anything except grey flannels, really. Also contrasts the horn buttons really well. Personally I think the loden has the advantage though, especially with jeans or pale greens, like faded fatigues or sage chinos. Where did you get yours?

Hei Talan, just checking in to let you know I followed your advice, for fatigues (orSlow) and cardigan (Dehen) both. Find I’m wearing both a whole lot, both quickly getting better with use. So: thank you. I have more than enough jeans that I need to wear in properly at the moment, or I might have taken your advice and gotten a pair of FC 0105 as well.

Didn’t see this post before replying myself. Second these two. De Bonne Facture usually live up to its name, in my experience. Don’t know who makes this particular scarf for them, but they always provide maker on their site. Begg & co makes some of the nicest scarves I know of, including some in super thin cashmere that you can fold to the size of a CD (remember those), but will be plenty warm as a scarf or even a shawl.

Yes, they do make very nice scarves. I bought a few from the factory outlet, back in the day, before that shut down and prices doubled. My favorite scarves are from Johnstons of Elgin, royal tartan in cashmere, and a black cashmere scarf from Lanvin that I bought from a ladies shop, and removed the colorful tag. Last tip may not be useful, but the first one is still available. I believe they make scarves for several fashion labels as well, and possibly for Husbands (very similar scarves, same quality). Tartan cashmere

Same size and same experience here. Pretty fabulous cardigan. Found it a bit itchy at first, wearing it just over a t-shirt, which is how I generally go about wearing a cardigan, but either it softened up rather quickly, or I just got used to it. Or perhaps my genes just got re-activated. Grew up wearing mainly wool (right on skin) at least half the year, as my grandmother believed wool saves little boys’ souls, and my grandfather was from a family of fishermen. Anyway, great cardigan.

If the hunt doesn’t pan out, and you have the patience, I’ll just add that the TCBs are great. Resilient, in my experience at least, stays dark and shapely a long time, fades ever so slowly starting to show after several months. But I’ve also seen great examples of fades, so it’ll happen eventually. If you’re after a true 70s 505, it could be worth waiting around for awhile.

Thank you! This is very helpful. I too take a 32 in the 1001xx, as I found that it keeps shrinking a bit the first 4-5 washes. The waist pops back out, but the rise and thighs on a 31 became a bit too compact for my taste. So sounds like we’re about the same size. Also good to know about the inseam, I’ll have to do small cuffs then. thanks for the help, everyone!

That just means God loves you more

@julian-wolf those Dawsons look very good indeed. Current currency rates would sting, but I do love that they’re made in Brighton. @smoothsailor I have admired your at last jeans in various threads before, but still can’t figure out how to go about to order a pair. one thing that does appeal to me with the full counts, in addition to price and availability, is that they’re a sort of gentle first step towards more volume. And no buckle, I struggle with buckles.

Agree, it’s definitely the look and feel that’s interesting, to me at least. Those army trousers look good, however you’d want to label them.

The pics where you’re wearing these were one of three sources that made me realize there is a balloon shaped hole in my closet. I looked at the jeans and thought they shouldn’t work, but evidently they look really good on you. Something about drape and proportions. Again, strongly doubt they would work on me, as I’m tall and skinny. It did make me think about how denim breaks in, as I have an old pair of slightly oversized 505s from early 80s or so, super straight, but big on me, however they drape nicely due to being broken in. With all the slim straight or straight jeans I normally wear, there isn’t really enough leftover fabric to notice drape much, and I get the feeling they wouldn’t fall all that softly anyway until truly washed out. Exception for a pair of SC66s which actually softened really quickly, and drapes obediently. with a bigger model, it would become important to me that it softens a bit and sort of tucks into itself to avoid that big stiff denim monster look. Again, because I’m quite slim, so things can get comical pretty quickly. Classic five pocket was the first thought, but then again I think @istewi wore orslow painters in that one photo, which also definitely scratched my particular itch. Already have some chinos which work very well, some old McCoys or BR 40s that look big enough on me, and a pair of MHL chinos that I really love. Again, drape is key, they felt and looked slightly clownish before the first wash. But there’s a pocket missing. Where do I put my left hand? Other than that, they look nice, and the cut is definitely on to something. Thanks for all the input, man!

Great to know. So you took your regular size, same as say Warehouse?

No, I want softness and drape. There, that’s that part of the question answered. Thanks!

Could I bother anyone with (preferably recent) experience for quick advice on the 13.7 vs 15.5 oz versions of 0105? And some size comparisons with other brands? The 0105s I see seem to be a bit large in the waist, but I dread too short a rise. Also, anybody know if they make one with a longer inseam? 79cm is just about ok, but a bit on the shirt side.

@81FXR you pretty much sum up the state of affairs. If they ever decide to start a wide legged pants course at Yale, you could definitely teach it. Presentation from sellers is weird. Once things move towards wide territory, presentation tends to get a bit extreme. I don’t want to look like this: Also surprised at how often they squeeze the model into a size where the top block looks just like any old (new) 501, but with ballooning around the thighs, and a psychotic break around the ankles. And then there’s a category of its own, the Korean tent-boy look, with oversized Oxford shirt flying loose, and if you add a bucket hat you could register your outfit as a permanent address. So it becomes a question of proportions, of course, which I think you pull off brilliantly. Hard to gauge without actually trying on, though. I prefer the 1945 chinos from Buzz, to get more or less the same look as I’d guess you get with the 42’s. I actually have a pair of vintage army chinos (I think they’re from the 60s, but the cut is pretty much identical to most 42 repros I’ve seen), but every time I’ve worn them, my girlfriend’s asked me if I’m going to the park to play hackey sack. I just don’t have the….posterolateral gravitas needed to make such generous cuts look good. I agree that some room between shoes and cuff is usually advisable,to break up the volumes, and on me it tends to look better if I roll/cuff wide trousers twice, to get some weight. A pair of otherwise perfect HBT fatigues I have, from orSlow, get little use because I hemmed them before shrinkage was done. Had to sit down when I realized those two pictures last are Nudies, by the way. Looks great. If I were to ever wear Nudies, though, I’d first need to find a way to forgive all those Swedish bartenders who denied me service ca. 2003 while wearing skin tight Nudies, simply because I was underage and obviously high.

Got caught up in the semantics, forgot to check the pants (coincidentally, also a quote I’ve heard in…Pinocchio). Full Count 0105 actually looks pretty spot on, @Talan, very much like what I had in mind. Thanks!

I’m currently pretty faint hearted. I need softness and volumes to shelter me from the world. Can’t decide whether this reminds me more of Pinocchio or the basement of a Berlin fetish club.

^those look good, @blooming, and if the fabric behaves like other sateens I’ve had, it’ll soften up even more. My orSlows are like joggers now. Unfortunately they’re the slim version, so looking to get rid of them and find som slightly roomier version.

Straight is the gate and narrow the way…but my jeans don’t have to be. as mentioned in the other thread, about guys wearing jeans in their hallways, gardens or on patios overlooking the alps, there’s some pretty strong wide legged shennanigans being perpetrated by the likes of @81FXR, @istewi and @Hopethisoneisnttaken, and many more. I like the look, and also the possibilities it presents for climate adaptation and smuggling wine bottles in and out of places. So please teach me the Wide Legged Jean. I jotted down orslow painters, Moto jeans (unheard of, hard to Google), and Oni something. Some more details and personal thoughts and experiences would be appreciated. I could have kicked this off with an appreciation for some 90s Levi’s 550, seen on covers of mostly bad early 90s rap cds, but turns out they’re in storage. The Levi’s, that is, the cds I sold for a pretty penny.

Did you get the size M in these? And did they shrink at all in wash? Lastly, how would you compare the fabric to, say, Orslows soft sateen, or other versions you may have handled?

I like seeing the variation on display here. Recently I’ve been fascinated by something I haven’t been able to find a good entry to, wide jeans. Like the ones seen above and on the last few pages by @81FXR, @istewi with the orslow painters, and that guy in Israel with the dog and great trousers… @Hopethisoneisnttaken? Apologies if this has already been done, but would there be any interest in a short thread on these kinds of jeans? It’d be great to see short inputs by those of you who can vouch for a pair write a bit about them, maybe comment on fit and fabric. What with the yearly heatwaves and forest fires etc, well all be needing some loose fitting pants soon, and we can’t all run around in cargo pants. Some of us can’t afford a divorce, not in this economy.

This is great advice, thank you! I think I’ll have to get one. It’s a cold world out there.

Anyone on here have experience with Dehen 1920 cardigans? Fit and sizing, in particular.

Anything with cats on it automatically gets points. Men also love beets, and I sort of want to buy the new Indigofera/Ebbets field “Root of all Evil” cap. It has a huge turnip on the front. But it’s expensive and I’d look ridiculous in a short brimmed cap, I don’t pitch for the Yonkers or whoever, and I don’t direct Gene Kelly movies. Would make me very happy to wear it around the kitchen though.

If the reason you need a wallet is that you’ve got too much money, Frank Clegg makes some very nice looking ones. Don’t know how they age, as that problem does not apply to me, but have a duffel from them that looks better with every year. Actually, I think they make some that don’t cost the earth too. Don’t know about cordovan, though, I only use that to keep pennies in. also the Swedish Tarnsjo tannery makes some simple ones I like. Haven’t seen those age, but their belts age beautifully.