SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Niro]

denim jacket under leather jacket = winner

[Iron Horse]

Denim jacket won't do much in a real winter, unless you plan to wear wool under/over it. Maybe look at a Brown's Beach wool vest.

[goodrain]

or blanket lined denim jacket

[volvo240thebest]

I like to wear a denim jacket as a layer during winter. Works great under loose overcoat like a peacoat or a duffle coat.

[HGS]

Denim jackets are good for layering in general.  Over a hoodie is a fav of mine during cooler fall and spring weather here in New England. 

[edmond]

Hows eastman leather?  Where they made? The pants, shirts and tees??

[Iron Horse]

ELMC's jeans, shirts, T-shirts and boots are all made in Japan through John Lofgren.

[propellerbeanie]

Is there any noticeable difference between a 100% melton wool and a 90% wool/10% nylon coat? I was thinking that I need some sort of peacoat or Mackinaw in my life, but I'm seeing that these two fabric compositions are most common. A part of me would prefer to get a 100% wool coat over something with synthetic fibres in it, but I don't know much about the benefits/cons of having a blended fabric.

 

[Iron Horse]

Not sure about 90/10, but 80/20 supposedly holds shape better, is less scratchy, and more durable than 100% wool; of course, it might depend on who's making the wool too.

[ALB]

On 5/14/2017 at 2:25 PM, ALB said:

Where to get brown jeans? Already have Kapital's century denim but looking something for more ordinary. Companion denim doesn't look too bad but would like to see more options.

Just a little (and only) bump for this.

[Geeman]

13 hours ago, ALB said:

Just a little (and only) bump for this.

Frost appears to be wearing some brown UES in the WAYWT thread 

[Frost]

^I'm wearing the Selvedge yarn-dyed unevenness chino, so no jeans unfortunately.

[setterman]

On 6/3/2017 at 2:54 AM, Iron Horse said:

Not sure about 90/10, but 80/20 supposedly holds shape better, is less scratchy, and more durable than 100% wool; of course, it might depend on who's making the wool too.

The blend will be less scratchy. Can't comment on any of the other attributes. 

My advice with a pea coat or mackinaw would be to focus first on fit. IMO, they're not super warm jackets to begin with, and if they're lose fitting or drafty in an area, that just makes them less warm. Inherited my girlfriends father's old Woolrich mackinaw from the late 50s. It's full through the waist and lets in enough air that I wouldn't think of wearing in temps below 45 degrees.

[dealingwithit]

Who makes the slubbiest mid weight denim that I can get in a cut similar to  warehouse lot 800, LVC 1954 501z, or Resolute 710?

Edited June 6, 2017 by dealingwithit

[Niro]

15 minutes ago, dealingwithit said:

Who the slubbiest mid weight denim that I can get in a cut similar to  warehouse lot 800, LVC 1954 501z, or Resolute 710?

You would probably want to look at Pure Blue Japan. They do a slim straight cut

[Maynard Friedman]

^ I agree with Niro. Neither LVC nor Resolute are slubby and Pure Blue Japan sounds like what you're looking for. May also be worth considering Samurai or The Strike Gold. Please don't ask us which cuts though!

[dealingwithit]

3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ I agree with Niro. Neither LVC nor Resolute are slubby and Pure Blue Japan sounds like what you're looking for. May also be worth considering Samurai or The Strike Gold. Please don't ask us which cuts though!

Strike Gold and PBJ won't work for me because they don't make a cut with a high enough rise. The Samurai 710xx is in my radar but I'm afraid they'll be too heavy.

Are the Warehouse lot 800s considered pretty slubby? They are noticeably slubbier than my resoltues and LVC, but I'm not sure how they rank.

[Iron Horse]

What about the Samurai S0510XX or S0500XX? Both between 14 and 15 oz.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

They are at 15.6oz

But yeah, the S0500XX is the slimmer one of those two

Edited June 7, 2017 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Iron Horse]

I stand corrected XD I thought I remembered a 14 oz. Texas cotton version of one them though? Might be my mind playing tricks on me.

Edited June 7, 2017 by Iron Horse

[JDelage]

I'd like a recommendation for a nice chore coat, in order of preference brown hickory, indigo hickory or wabash, or indigo. It's actually to do gardening, etc, so ruggedness & value > style. Thank you!

[Iron Horse]

For value, perhaps look at Pointer Brand; they're made in USA but reasonably priced.

[chicote]

I reckon you might be able to find a used Sassafras coat on Rakuten for not too much. Iron Horse is right that Pointer Brand is going to be much cheaper regardless, but Sassafras is up there construction- and materials-wise with some of the best Japanese brands, with incredibly creative patterning and design to boot.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/kind-u/item/575317001998/

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/auc-life-sendai/item/170430747h0035sn33/

I also saw a couple of nice duck chore coats this afternoon at a vintage shop in Seattle if you'd like me to grab measurements of them for you.

[bartlebyyphonics]

3 hours ago, chicote said:

I reckon you might be able to find a used Sassafras coat on Rakuten for not too much. Iron Horse is right that Pointer Brand is going to be much cheaper regardless, but Sassafras is up there construction- and materials-wise with some of the best Japanese brands, with incredibly creative patterning and design to boot.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/kind-u/item/575317001998/

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/auc-life-sendai/item/170430747h0035sn33/

and sassafras is indeed gardening themed...

i am great fan of post overalls, but he renders the chore more delicate, not more rugged...

and what of filson for authentic outdoors-ism? not so chore based, but... i say this as they serve as the basis of much post overalls design

[bartlebyyphonics]

dbl post oops

Edited June 13, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics

[mrman]

I'd go with a french chore coat that you can pick up either vintage or from Arpenteur, Vetra etc. If it's good enough for Monty Don, it should be good enough for any gardener 

[sk8eddie]

Any recommendations on jeans in the 1890-1930 style? The only ones I know of are the new LVC 501XX 1890 and the TCB's 20's.

Edited June 13, 2017 by sk8eddie

[bartlebyyphonics]

On 12 June 2017 at 8:30 PM, JDelage said:

I'd like a recommendation for a nice chore coat, in order of preference brown hickory, indigo hickory or wabash, or indigo. It's actually to do gardening, etc, so ruggedness & value > style. Thank you!

here is the post overalls blog, mostly sharing to show the range of vintage chore jackets he has in his collection from osh gosh to can't bust 'em via hercules...

http://www.postoveralls.com/blog/

but in full agreement about french coat also

and tbh when I garden, it is the bib overalls for me...

[bartlebyyphonics]

22 hours ago, sk8eddie said:

Any recommendations on jeans in the 1890-1930 style? The only ones I know of are the new LVC 501XX 1890 and the TCB's 20's.

if I was on 4chan I would recommend yee to lurk moar

but In this regard I am interested too…

I feel a little too green to post the response to such a question (which demands a real thorough knower to stump up), but here are some (tbh most found from denimbro browsing – the real archaeologists of turn of the century wear):

 

Oee did an amazing 1890 hercules (a denim bruin special, now sold out, but interesting for reference)

https://standardandstrange.com/products/hercules-overall-denim-125-years-finish-lot-0716

 

a link Fried-san has posted many times on the db leepro thread:

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=120

and the lee japan options

http://www.lee-japan.jp/archives/

blue blanket offers some nice examples:

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/P08/

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/IJ1/

 

rising sun have these turn-o-the century themed beasts

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/blacksmith-raw

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/powerhouse-chino-ind-raw

micheal harris wrote the book on the pre-1890 history and competing brands alongside levis

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/Jeans-Old-West-Michael-Harris/0764335006

then…

basically all good Japanese repro brands should be knocking out a lot of 1920s onwards models

ie

http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=103088279

 

happy digging...

[sk8eddie]

1 hour ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

 

if I was on 4chan I would recommend yee to lurk moar

but In this regard I am interested too…

I feel a little too green to post the response to such a question (which demands a real thorough knower to stump up), but here are some (tbh most found from denimbro browsing – the real archaeologists of turn of the century wear):

 

Oee did an amazing 1890 hercules (a denim bruin special, now sold out, but interesting for reference)

https://standardandstrange.com/products/hercules-overall-denim-125-years-finish-lot-0716

 

a link Fried-san has posted many times on the db leepro thread:

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=120

 

and the lee japan options

http://www.lee-japan.jp/archives/

 

blue blanket offers some nice examples:

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/P08/

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/IJ1/

 

rising sun have these turn-o-the century themed beasts

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/blacksmith-raw

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/powerhouse-chino-ind-raw

 

micheal harris wrote the book on the pre-1890 history and competing brands alongside levis

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/Jeans-Old-West-Michael-Harris/0764335006

 

then…

basically all good Japanese repro brands should be knocking out a lot of 1920s onwards models

ie

http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=103088279

 

happy digging...

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you, the book is on its way to me since two days ago. Then I shall go and lurk some more!

Edited June 14, 2017 by sk8eddie