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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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40oz seems super excessive but I did just buy a pair of 27.5oz handwoven. Hopefully the loose weave makes up for the weight but I'm not sure what I'm getting myself into. 

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I've found that I get the most wear out of 16+oz here in Toronto. Wear them from October through April. You can go lighter May, June and the second half of September, but during the summer proper it's too humid.

I also walk/cycle all winter.

40oz jeans sound way OTT, but I'd try a Type 3 in that weight.

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40 oz. is just silly. I'm with b_F, 13-15 oz is my preferred denim weight these days. I like being able to wear the same pair year round if I want, and I'm rarely hot or cold in medium weight denim.

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I guess I'm an outlier around here cuz i much prefer heavy denim. Long before I found this world of high-end heritage work wear indpired clothing I was always wearing extra heavy super tough clothes, even if I never wore them for what they were made for. My current Levi's 511 selvedge are about 12oz and they feel like paper but still I like them a lot. I don't know what I'm gonna do next but whatever it is I'm looking forward to getting back into heavy denim for the cold CO winter. 

I think it's cool N&F can do 40oz. I'd love to try on a pair but I'd prolly never buy a pair. Samurai and IH 25oz are heavy enough and very wearable for me. I always like to see boundaries pushed when it's done successfully. I think I'm most curious to see how well they turn out. 

There're a lot of myths/untruths re heavy denim i see floating around. Heavy denim = sik fadez. Wrong - IMO denim weight has little to nothing to do with fade. Heavy denim = less breathable or hot. Not necessarily. The density of weave influences breathability more so. 

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3 hours ago, mpukas said:

I guess I'm an outlier around here cuz i much prefer heavy denim. Long before I found this world of high-end heritage work wear indpired clothing I was always wearing extra heavy super tough clothes, even if I never wore them for what they were made for. My current Levi's 511 selvedge are about 12oz and they feel like paper but still I like them a lot. I don't know what I'm gonna do next but whatever it is I'm looking forward to getting back into heavy denim for the cold CO winter. 

I think it's cool N&F can do 40oz. I'd love to try on a pair but I'd prolly never buy a pair. Samurai and IH 25oz are heavy enough and very wearable for me. I always like to see boundaries pushed when it's done successfully. I think I'm most curious to see how well they turn out. 

There're a lot of myths/untruths re heavy denim i see floating around. Heavy denim = sik fadez. Wrong - IMO denim weight has little to nothing to do with fade. Heavy denim = less breathable or hot. Not necessarily. The density of weave influences breathability more so. 

so u be ok wearing 100oz denim if the weave density is loose enough?

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9 hours ago, mpukas said:

I guess I'm an outlier around here cuz i much prefer heavy denim. Long before I found this world of high-end heritage work wear indpired clothing I was always wearing extra heavy super tough clothes, even if I never wore them for what they were made for. My current Levi's 511 selvedge are about 12oz and they feel like paper but still I like them a lot. I don't know what I'm gonna do next but whatever it is I'm looking forward to getting back into heavy denim for the cold CO winter. 

I think it's cool N&F can do 40oz. I'd love to try on a pair but I'd prolly never buy a pair. Samurai and IH 25oz are heavy enough and very wearable for me. I always like to see boundaries pushed when it's done successfully. I think I'm most curious to see how well they turn out. 

There're a lot of myths/untruths re heavy denim i see floating around. Heavy denim = sik fadez. Wrong - IMO denim weight has little to nothing to do with fade. Heavy denim = less breathable or hot. Not necessarily. The density of weave influences breathability more so. 

I think denim weight can have a big affect on how a jean ages.

The heavier the fabric, the larger creases and honeycombs tend to be I think. 

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19 minutes ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

I think denim weight can have a big affect on how a jean ages.

The heavier the fabric, the larger creases and honeycombs tend to be I think. 

re: creases/combs/whiskers, I think it's more about the fit and cut than weight. I see that tighter cuts in lighter denim lead to more and sharper creases. Heavier denim in looser cuts lead to fewer but larger creases. And then light denim in loose cut, heavy denim in tight cut, all lead to something unique. The size and number of creases doesn't necessarily have an impact on how much dye wears off the edge of said creases. How much dye wears off is different for every denim, regardless of weight, I think. Some denim fades slow, some so fast it seems the indigo runs away in fear if looked at out of the corner of your eye... LOL. 

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18 hours ago, mpukas said:

...Heavy denim = sik fadez...

I should have said that I see often implied that heavy denim produces sik'er fadez than lighter-weight denim. I don't find that to be true. There are plenty of examples of lighter weight denim (12-16oz) that fades beautifully, either high-contrast or vintage-esue. 

Edited by mpukas

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I'm in a death spiral of doom with UPS trying to return the LVCs I impulse bought a few pages back. With duties and the UPS brokerage fee (read: pointless cash grab) the jeans were going to end up at close to CDN600.

I've phoned UPS three times now to tell them I'm refusing the package, but so far they refuse to return to sender...

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My wife got me a Gangsterville Glad Hand Shirt as a birthday present she thought was cute.  The texture is neat.  I know this might not be everyone's taste but it is from my wife.  Expect this to show up in a WAYWT post.

 

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Edited by mlwdp

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Very good @mlwdp That is an excellent gift, great choice on her part. Somebody has been paying attention!

I like it. A LITTLE weird with the kiss mark, but not to weird. Just weird enough!

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Lipstick on your collar? I think she’s sending out a message there! I like it.

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On 11/19/2018 at 3:31 PM, mpukas said:

I should have said that I see often implied that heavy denim produces sik'er fadez than lighter-weight denim. I don't find that to be true. There are plenty of examples of lighter weight denim (12-16oz) that fades beautifully, either high-contrast or vintage-esue. 

The main difference is that heavier denim has thicker, ropier yarns all around. Some of the key champions of heavy weight denim, eg Ironheart & Samurai, like heavy repetitive slub in their yarns, too. So the fades do end up looking very different.

I don't like that Samurai look in general after the first couple of months because there's little variation, it's all gritty and high contrast. Whereas the slubby yarns that Full Count use look less contrasty, as the slubs are physically smaller. But of course some denim in lighter weights will have that gritty look, too, depending on the yarn design.

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Anybody here wore their "fat man denim i.e. bigger waist denim" to accommodate Thanksgiving eating today?  I wore my SC1947 as they do well when eating abnormal amounts of food. :D 

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Yep, got my upsized Hawaiis on just for the occasion. Just two hours 'til turkey time…

Happy Thanksgiving, all!

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Hope the US fratenity had a great Thanksgiving!

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So I have lapsed on going to the gym since travelling and realised, partially due to travel eight loss but also because I am no longer quatting jeans fit so much better. When you're a big thighed denimhead it turns out you can skip leg day.

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8 hours ago, -KapitalSteez- said:

So I have lapsed on going to the gym since travelling and realised, partially due to travel eight loss but also because I am no longer quatting jeans fit so much better. When you're a big thighed denimhead it turns out you can skip leg day.

Agreed. I have ‘outgrown’ more than a few pairs due to heavy squats.  :wacko:

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I've gone from doing 3x5 to doing 3x3 because I was getting tired of my jeans not fitting.

Don't skip leg day!

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That’s right. Friends don’t let friends skip leg day. 

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Question on hem width...

Was browsing a SF thread about hem width of trousers. Many folks in that thread seem to think the ideal width of the hem is approximately 2/3 that of shoe  outsole length. What do you guys think? For myself, I’ve kind of felt that a 7.5” hem on a 10”-10.5” shoe or boot is pretty ideal, but I know that to each his own etc. To me, 2/3 of outsole length is pretty extreme, but I know formal wear tends to go in a different direction. 

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I did this pretty poor patch on my knee, and the way the fabric bunches up when I squat down is driving me nuts. I put a piece of fabric under the hole and attempted to darn with a regular sewing machine and darning foot. Any tips?

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