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On 12/10/2023 at 12:30 PM, blooming said:

The newer slim 50s are in my main rotation, truly a great cut. They are roomier in the top block than most cuts labeled “relaxed taper”, though, so the name isn’t entirely accurate lol

Most cuts labeled “relaxed tapered” seem to really be more in the slim–tapered to narrow–tapered range, these days, so maybe TCB isn’t far off after all…

Edited by julian-wolf
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20 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Most cuts labeled “relaxed tapered” seem to really be more in the slim–tapered to narrow–tapered range, these days, so maybe TCB isn’t far off after all…

True. PBJ 019 comes to mind. My waist size in those fit my legs like skinny jeans circa 2005 🤣

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55 minutes ago, blooming said:

True. PBJ 019 comes to mind. My waist size in those fit my legs like skinny jeans circa 2005 🤣

That cut was awful - they fit me like a glove from top to bottom. Not much relaxed about it. First pair of jeans I ever got from overseas - and the pair that inspired me to look to repro denim for better patterning.

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"Relaxed tapered" cuts are usually designed to fit larger waist sizes well. If you wear a size 36, your jeans probably taper to a 7.75" hem or something reasonable, but get that same pair in my size, 31, and it'll be something completely ridiculous like 6.5".

This makes me wonder why don't jeans makers just make cuts with a particular hem width (say, 21 cm), and for smaller sizes it's more of a straight fit, and taper increases as you size up? It would fix a common complaint about straight fits, which is that they're too wide in bigger waist sizes.

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I'm a small-waisted (31"), tall guy. I feel like I've seen some leg openings on tapered fits right near 6" which makes my eyes water as I imagine trying to slide my size 13 US feet through that hole. Even in the best of cases (Samurai S211VX comes to mind), most "relaxed" tapered fits converge to a rough facsimile of a classic slim straight with an annoyingly tight leg opening. The thigh of the "slim tapered" Cat's Drive, in my size at least, is wider even than the Oni and PBJ "relaxed tapered" cuts. I snoozed too long on the TCBs though and their pre-order ended 

Edited by yung_flynn
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  • 2 weeks later...

looking for a proper and somewhat "reasonable" priced pair of 37ish repros, I could get my hands on a pair of 30s TCBs. originally coming from LVC I always thought the short button flys of current LVC repros looked odd and the 90s 201xx's are suffering from too much hip flare, which always occured wether you wore em fitted or downsized which was often the case hence their notoriously factory down sizing. after the decent looking but expensive, red tab missing sugar canes hit the market few years back, not to mention freewheelers or the last 36ish samurai iteration I thought I never could make my hands on a pair of cinched jeans with crotch rivet and concealed rivets with out spending a fortune.

my pair has not arrived yet and I wonder if anyone can share ones experiences regarding fit, further shrinkage etc. how is the denim compared the 44s denim

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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, unders said:

Nice. That leather patch looks perfect. 

The patch was great when it was new, and now its well worn its grown on me. Still quite supple. My other favorite detail is the fade on the pocket bag, the sateen has faded loads and become really soft, far more that the striped twill. 

These are semi retired now due to threads breaking and having other pairs to wear.  

Edited by UkeNo
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12 hours ago, Ciabatta said:

Does anyone have a pair of the 50's in 36 mind sharing some measurements? TCB has always been a mystery to me. Are they really that undersized in the waist? How does the fabric stretch out?

I am a 34" waist and am very happy I went with 36 50s. Out of the wash they fit spot spot on and then stretch out a little bit. Tons of give in that fabric. If you go with your TTS waist then they will be tight post wash but then stretch to your actual waist, which may not be desirable if you'd like the space. There's a reason everyone says to size up in 50s.

You'll lose a bit of inseam over time, but since they're one wash the shrinkage in the inseam wasn't too bad. 

I went off Redcast's measurement chart and it was accurate enough for me.

Edited by rbeck
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On 1/26/2024 at 8:50 PM, jewellben said:

@jewellben   I recently bought myself a pair 30s and wonder if you pair shrank with subsequent washing and why you sell them in the first place? I really like the rough touch of the denim but think they could shrink around the hip since mine suffer from a huge hip flare although I bought em already quite small...

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Question for the experts: I just received my pair of 50's straight from TCB and I had them hem to 82cm. The left leg inseam hits it perfectly at 32.25 inches, but the right leg inseam is a full inch bigger, it's more like 33.5 inches. Right leg has some leg twist as well. Is this okay and something that will even itself out after a couple washes? The thing giving me pause is that they included the pieces of denim they cut off from each leg and one looks like it's cut straight across but the other one doesn't look even. Pics -

 

PXL_20240203_171022986.jpg

PXL_20240202_234937601.jpg

PXL_20240202_235011939.jpg

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On 1/28/2024 at 7:58 PM, Ciabatta said:

Does anyone have a pair of the 50's in 36 mind sharing some measurements? TCB has always been a mystery to me. Are they really that undersized in the waist? How does the fabric stretch out?

I'm also a 34 waist like the dude above and went with the 36... honestly idk if I would have even been able to button up a 34. I agree redcast heritage's measurements listed on their site are pretty accurate. The only difference I got when measuring was the front rise was like an inch less than what they said. Here's the measurements of the pair I just received straight from TCB yesterday. I had them hem to an 82cm -

Waist: 33.75"

Inseam: 32.25" and 33.5" lol (see my post above)

Front rise: 11.5"

Back rise: 16"

Thigh: 13.5"

Knee: 10"

Leg opening: 9.75"

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@KarlHavoc I would need to see the pants on you to give you any feedback. Inseam on jeans is only measured from one side as there is a bit of asymmetry to the construction through the crotch and seat. If they're draping much longer on the right side, then you have a problem.

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22 minutes ago, Jared_Lee said:

@KarlHavoc I would need to see the pants on you to give you any feedback. Inseam on jeans is only measured from one side as there is a bit of asymmetry to the construction through the crotch and seat. If they're draping much longer on the right side, then you have a problem.

I will try to get a pic but yeah they're visibly longer on one side. I always show my new jeans to my girlfriend and she never really cares or has a comment lol but even she noticed it immediately 

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Yeah, if you're only measuring to confirm what your eyes already saw, there's a problem. Lucky for you, it's one leg too long rather than one leg too short. Do you have anywhere you can get them chain stitched again? Lots of options in the US.

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I would definitely be contacting TCB about it @KarlHavoc as that's pretty shoddy service , especially for an international customer. Even if just to let them know and hopefully prevent them doing it again!

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