Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[Sugar Mountain]

Mega, I think you'd get along best with Momotaro or SDA because the denim would still be hefty enough at 15-16oz when you transition from the 18-21oz range but give a more traditional feel. The signature denims of both those two brands responds well to a regular washing regime that I believe you favour and the cuts would suit your frame. Over the past week in HK and Tokyo, I've seen brilliant faded examples on the streets from Momo and SDA - you can't go wrong with either.

[Max Power]

Everytime I handle my Momotaros I think how great that denim is - a shame that they got out of focus after the hype around 2010-2012.

Maybe Japan Blue took some of the attention as it was hard to distinguish the brands at first. But I wouldn't recommend JB, as they're sanforized and while being not as over the top as N&F they lack a certain appeal of the other brands you listed.

 

Yet, I think that FC or Warehouse would suit best to the approach towards "traditional" brands, as they look best with frequent washing. Eternal has also such a great denim - makes me said I don't fit in my 888 anymore.

Edited April 25, 2016 by Max Power

[Sugar Mountain]

Yeah, don't get me wrong, I would never not advocate someone from picking up either Fullcount or Warehouse. I love both brands. Just that Momotaro and SDA feel like a nice balance between where Mega is coming from and the opposite end of the scale where we have 40s repro cuts and period detailing.

 

It's funny that you mention the Momotaro hype from 2010-12... They're one of the few brands that were big news around that time that have yet to be reappraised and rediscovered on Sufu. People turned away from them and it's stayed that way, whereas a brand like Flat Head saw a new crowd look beyond the fad-driven high-contrast fading and slim cuts to appreciate the company from a different perspective.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I thought about your question again Mega:

 

Like I said if you want something more traditional, I would clearly advise you to take a look at the Osaka5. So Warehouse, SDA, Denime and Full Count. I excluded Evisu since they run so short these days, you wouldn’t make them fit. Although, I think the 2000 or 2001 without gulls would be a good choice.

 

But besides those brands, Momotaro is definitely a good choice, without the battle stripes for a more classic look. They really lost a lot of attention around here. Dunno why.

 

Another brand that is quite popular right now and gives you an “authentic†pair of jeans is of course TCB. But I find their fits quite big at the leg opening in my size. But the denim and the details look just right.

 

Another great option for a well-made and classic pair of jeans would be Ooe Yofukuten. But maybe the denim is too soft and light for your liking.

 

If you consider Eternal, you could also take a look at Flat Head jeans. The 3009 might be your best bet.

 

And just to add some more brands to keep your head spinning: FOB Factory, Pherrow’s, Cushman, Resolute 711…

[Iron Horse]

Maybe the reason why Momos fell out of favor, aside from hype backlash, was the pink inseam stitching and bright pink selvedge ID? Even though it's subtle, I know the pink inseam has always struck me as a bit girly and dowdy. 

[clt3]

I don't really think that the pink threads used on Momotaros are really that big a deal, but I don't really feel like there's something special about Momotaros that I really like. I want to pick up a lot of different brands in the future, but I also don't want to buy so much that I won't get to wear them all. It just seems like there are always other more appealing options to me than Momotaro.

[alvin_cheong]

Not sure if posting here is correct? Could someone tell me what's the difference in washing the jeans in a top load washing machine and a front load washing machine?

[Flash]

Think that came from people freaking out about the spin cycle , think attitudes towards washing has changed for the better now

[alvin_cheong]

@Flash Thank you for your reply. Meaning it doesn't mean only front load washing will be good for denim?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I don't really think that the pink threads used on Momotaros are really that big a deal, but I don't really feel like there's something special about Momotaros that I really like. I want to pick up a lot of different brands in the future, but I also don't want to buy so much that I won't get to wear them all. It just seems like there are always other more appealing options to me than Momotaro.

 

I just recently saw a little documentary about how Momotaro jeans are made (can't find the link right now). That made a really good impression on me...but I have much too many jeans and other brands I'd try out before I would buy Momotaro.

[Max Power]

Yeah, but still I think that some old us machines do things to clothes that I can't reproduce with a rather new european machine. I've bought a second hand IH T-Shirt that had been released just a short time before I got it. The seller washed it a few times - it was super faded and shrunk almost one size. My years old Tees look new compared to those.

 

That might explain why people look into the type of washing machine. Still I think denim Looks best washed. Maybe my gentle machine is the reason I don't get nice marbling.

Edited April 25, 2016 by Max Power

[Flash]

Don't really think it matters what machine used as long as you wash on a gentle setting ( from my experience anyway )

[oomslokop]

i got myself a nos bnwt toploader sans the big pole down the middle of the tube after noticing how much more water you can get into the washer compared to those supergentle ecofriendly we'll-use-as-little-water-as-possible frontloading machines. your jeans get so much cleaner and marbling is almost guaranteed!

Edited April 25, 2016 by oomslokop

[oomslokop]

my dream pair of jeans would be the rising sun blacksmith made out of fc's standard denim, with a shrink-to-fit pattern that would match that of the original sanforized blacksmith (not the unsanforized blacksmith of the rs x denimbro contest that shrank to a n&f weird bro fit). fc's standard denim is to me the perfect denim for tropical countries, light, breathable, with a royal-esque blue that stands out from the dark inky raws crowd. if you get the denim in one of fc's standard cuts you also get all the fc detailing quirks, altogether more out there for attention than warehouse (curved and widely spaced backpockets, hybrid cuts and details – is the 1108 a 66 cut or a modified 47?) as well as being subtle enough to pass as a mall jean – if what you want is a resolute-esque understatement. and before you know it, after about a year, you get sick fadez. you almost don't expect it as the fabric gets soft quite quickly. and the rs blacksmith, where do i start? the cut is golden, roomy top block with a discreet taper, and the details are a perfect mash-up of influences, the acorn backpockets from a jacket pocket of some obscure outdoorsy label, the cinch from some mine-find no doubt and it was one of the first jeans cmiiw to make the single-piece fly almost de-rigeur amongst newer repro-minded brands. and somehow all of these are combined into something that is unmistakably rising sun (or mike hodis), kinda like how you don't care/don't even notice that a great daft punk song is actually made up of obvious samples if you look/listen to it closer. as it is though, the rs blacksmith is made from boring sanforized cone, and the fc standard denim doesn't come in a cut as flattering and comfortable to me as the blacksmith.     

Edited April 25, 2016 by oomslokop

[clt3]

I just recently saw a little documentary about how Momotaro jeans are made (can't find the link right now). That made a really good impression on me...but I have much too many jeans and other brands I'd try out before I would buy Momotaro.

 

Yeah I have the same sentiments. Cool video though.

 

Here's the video for anyone interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek5520fSymY

[redragon]

I think the decision Momotaro made to bastardize their GTB line by putting the 2 stripes models on the other lines really put bitter taste in my mouth.

Imo, Their fade result also does not impress me as much as Osaka 5 and others.

Edited April 25, 2016 by redragon

[Megatron1505]

Thank you all for your responses, like I said originally I was really interested in hearing your opinions about some denims, cuts and brands so this has definitely been a worthwhile ask for me.

I’ve had a look at some of the models over on Denimio and this has instantly ruled a couple out…

· SDA 101’s in a 36 waist have a 37.5†waist when raw, but the one wash goes down to 34.5†for the same size. If true the SDA’s are out.

· Eternal 811 have a crazily undersized waist in their one wash format too, so they’re out.

· Denime 66 basics look just about right for that slightly over sized look that I like, so they are still a contender.

· The Momotaro Heritage jeans do look nice, but there are other brands I have ahead of them.

I’ll keep looking…

[Maynard Friedman]

I would look at the BiG measurements for o/w SDA and Eternals before ruling them out. I slso think Warehouse 800 would be perfect for you.

[Megatron1505]

Just looked at the Warehouse 800, looks like a winner to me. Any tips on where to buy them who take PayPal?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I bought my pair from Samurai Craft from Rakuten. Mainly because they offered free shipping and deducted the VAT. But you will find plenty of Rakuten shops and I think most take PayPal as payment method. The Warehouse 800 are great! I am wearing mine right now

[Mr-Bielby]

At the moment I'd think that either Fullcount, Warehouse or Ooe would have what you are looking for. Did I hear recently that Denime has changed hands again? If so maybe best to let others try first.

[setterman]

Just looked at the Warehouse 800, looks like a winner to me. Any tips on where to buy them who take PayPal?

 

 

Warehouse directly, if you're fine with a 31.5" inseam post wash.  

[Max Power]

Try this: www.japan-holic.com/product/266

[setterman]

Don't really think it matters what machine used as long as you wash on a gentle setting ( from my experience anyway )

 

Having used both within the past year, I definitely think the top loader (which uses a lot more water), gets clothing cleaner, and gets all the shrink out of raw jeans with fewer washes.  But as long as you're using gentler settings with little or no spin, neither should damage jeans.    

 

Something I have noticed, even with regular washing, the more worn jeans get, the smellier they get (using fragrance free detergent might play a role in that).  After 250+ days of wear (and six or seven washes along the way), within a few days of washing my WH 1001 they start to smell like dirty jeans again.  Nothing so bad that someone else should notice, but when I skip wearing them for a day or two, I do notice they smell different from new jeans when I go to put them on.  I can't image how ripe a pair of jeans are after going that many days with no washes.  

[givemefive]

do you think the complete lack of factory starch by that point has something to do with that?

 

maybe it's the way the fibers get so fluffy in the wash. lots more surface area to pick up body goo, like a sponge

Edited April 25, 2016 by givemefive

[Maynard Friedman]

*Betty Swollocks*

[setterman]

do you think the complete lack of factory starch by that point has something to do with that?

 

maybe it's the way the fibers get so fluffy in the wash. lots more surface area to pick up body goo, like a sponge

 

I just think it's cumulative. You wear something 60 to 90 times and then wash it, especially on a colder, gentler cycle, it's not 100% clean.  

[Megatron1505]

Thanks everyone for your help over the last couple of pages, I found a none wash pair in a 38, where the post wash measurements look spot on, at Frisbee on Rakuten. I'll be ordering tomorrow 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

That sounds great! Keep us posted about them, I am sure you'll love the denim.

[Iron Horse]

Megatron's search for new jeans got me thinking: is it consensus that we're slowly moving away from the flashier brands these days to more "period-correct" pieces, (though not necessarily in how they're coordinated)? Was the era of #details more of a phase than anything and are we now in the apres-gimmick?

 

I wonder too if there's a name for this look or movement? There are other tribes out there, like biker-inspired, hobo-railroad worker, the cult of RGT, IH Army, rockabilly, urban surf,  etc. I'd like to think we're not slavish to any one look, just general denimhead, and none of us tries to dress like a supporting character in a film rather than the lead. Would anyone disagree that we fall under the umbrage of amekaji?

 

I'm kind of curious as to what people think is next, too. Over on DB they have a dedicated "What's Next" thread. Maybe we can do that in this thread.