Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[itsbenhere]

I've been thinking for a bit that a "brand comparison" thread would be pretty nice.

[bradl]

Favorite pieceS, 2001 jacket from Warehouse and Lone Wolf Farmer boots

[FreeCharlesManson]

My favourite's are all my new high-end tees (3sixteen, iron heart, and SDA), my Red Wing 877 and my reigning champ hoodie, not too sure if i have a favourite jean yet none of the ones I've owned i find to be ideal always something i wish i could change on them 

[Bobbo]

Favorite pieceS, 2001 jacket from Warehouse and Lone Wolf Farmer boots

 

How is the sizing on Lone Wolf boots? Quality looks great.

[unders]

Favourite item is a Levis Red t-shirt. Bought it around 12 yrs ago at Atoo in Birmingham. It's in a right state these days; cigarette burns, all misshapen and almost see through! It's kind of like a very dark olive green with a couple of feathers printed on the back.

Levis Red was an odd little offshoot. They used to stock it in Cinch and the jeans were ugly as hell - weird drop crotchs and so on. Not sure if it's still going.

Edited December 18, 2015 by unders

[Maynard Friedman]

Some Levi's Red goodies(!) for you all to feast your eyes upon:

http://www.philipbrownemenswear.co.uk/collections/levis-red

[Flash]

Favourite ....

Jacket . Engineered Garments utility jacket

Sweatshirt . McCoy's hoody

T shirt . old Flat Head baseball t

Jeans . Would be hard not to pick my Ooe contest jeans

Shoes . Any old pair of vans

[Iron Horse]

Some Levi's Red goodies(!) for you all to feast your eyes upon:

http://www.philipbrownemenswear.co.uk/collections/levis-red

Would instacop 1st giant jeans.

[bradl]

How is the sizing on Lone Wolf boots? Quality looks great.

My feet measure exactly 27.5, so I went with the 9.5 in the farmer boots and worked out perfectly. 

 

I haven't been able to compare them to many other boots, but they're beautifully constructed and hold up amazingly. 

[Geeman]

Favourite item is a Levis Red t-shirt. Bought it around 12 yrs ago at Atoo in Birmingham. It's in a right state these days; cigarette burns, all misshapen and almost see through! It's kind of like a very dark olive green with a couple of feathers printed on the back.

Levis Red was an odd little offshoot. They used to stock it in Cinch and the jeans were ugly as hell - weird drop crotchs and so on. Not sure if it's still going.

Atoo.. that takes me back. I was sad to see it go.

[Maynard Friedman]

Atoo..

Bless you.

[xchen]

that's terrible...

[unders]

Atoo.. that takes me back. I was sad to see it go.

I know mate. I figure by the time the Bull Ring was built it was just in the wrong end of town.

[Megatron1505]

I spent a lot of time thinking about what my favourite gear is, and in the last 12 months I think I finally nailed it. I don’t actually own that much in terms of clothing these days, nothing really superfluous, as I sold on just about everything that wasn’t regularly worn. So here’s my list…

Jacket – Trophy Clothing Reservoir Hood

Kind of a mash up between an old style waxed motorcycle jacket and a fisherman’s parka, with the hook fastenings of older N-1 deck jackets. It’s waterproof, flannel lined and I know I’ll still be using it in ten years’ time.

Shirt – Iron Heart IHSH-16 Heavyweight Chambray

When this shirt came out back in 2011 it was billed as the world’s heaviest chambray, almost a contradiction, and it remains so. But it isn’t the weight that makes this shirt so awesome, it’s the colour depth and feel of the fabric. Pictures genuinely do not do this shirt justice, I think it’s the best shirt that Iron Heart have ever done.

Hoodie – Supreme Lion of Jeddah

Not for the amazing quality, not for the materials, simply because it’s the most comfortable item of clothing I have ever owned and is still going strong after 8 years or abuse including sleeping rough, football matches, DIY and gardening.

Tee – Old style, none loopwheeled, Iron Heart plain tee.

Again, simply down to the perfect fit. I think it was a massive mistake when IH changed their tee’s to loopwheeled and a great example of how a manufacturing technique doesn’t necessarily make something better. Don’t get me wrong, the newer tee’s and incredible quality, but the fit just doesn’t work for me anymore.

Jeans – Sauce Zhan x Mega

I love the SZ bamboo denim, and I designed the cut so of course it works well for me. Aside from these I spend most of my time in my IHxDWC UHR Beatle Busters.

Boots – White’s SD or Wesco Flightmaster

I really, really thought about this one, and I couldn’t separate them. The SD has been my favourite boots for years, but the Flightmaster is so pretty and they are both equally comfortable. I could genuinely live with only these two pairs of boots for the rest of my life.

Bag – Goruck GR-1

It’s totally no nonsense, indestructible, and has accompanied me to work every day for the last three years, plus numerous long haul trips. Never let me down, and apart from a bit of fraying on one of the straps where my dog got at it, it still looks brand new.

Honourable mentions…

Belt – ZeeBee x NoKipple, best made anywhere….ever.

Sneakers – Jordan V – old school is the best school.

Wallet – Tush card case – minimalist

Eye Glasses – Dita Winston – quality.

Sunglasses – Persol - Timeless

[Cold Summer]

Jeans: 3Sixteen ST-120x - I've worn special limited edition Japanese jeans and all sorts of much fancier stuff over the years, but these (my current daily wear pair) are probably my favorite. They're the best slim tapered fit I've ever worn, which looks slim and modern but isn't tight anywhere and is extremely comfortable. And of course, the denim looks and feels great. Close second: Samurai S710xx.

 

Shirt: Flat Head Green Western Flannel - This is the oldest nice shirt I own (bought it four years ago) and I'll never get rid of it. It fits perfectly, it's very warm and comfortable, and the color/pattern is perfect.

 

Footwear: Flat Head SKB-70H Horsehide Boots - At the time these were the most expensive item of clothing I'd ever bought (since then, my Lofgren boots cost a little more.) I don't regret it at all - these boots are really comfortable and look awesome, and the reddish-brown horsehide has changed a lot over the past two years.

 

Accessory: Flat Head cordovan card case - I've been through a lot of (very expensive) wallets over the years, but this is the one I've kept. A simple, sleek, classic design, with top-notch materials and craftsmanship. I don't expect I'll ever get rid of this.

[VivaMarlon]

Jeans: 3Sixteen ST-120x - I've worn special limited edition Japanese jeans and all sorts of much fancier stuff over the years, but these (my current daily wear pair) are probably my favorite. They're the best slim tapered fit I've ever worn, which looks slim and modern but isn't tight anywhere and is extremely comfortable. And of course, the denim looks and feels great. Close second: Samurai S710xx.

 

ST-120x are my current pair and the fit is perfect, I just recently bought a pair of Samurai s710xx that I was hoping would be a similar fit and while they're close, I think I still prefer the 3sixteen.  I can't say for certain yet as I haven't been able to wear them around just yet (picking them up from Self Edge tomorrow after being hemmed).  Hoping that as I wear them and break them in, I love the fit more and more.  The 3sixteens are a great pair if you're looking for something slim through the leg but not tight, at least if you've got skinny legs like I do.

[Max Power]

So, here's a short fit comparison of the pairs b_f sent to me and my personal ranking. It's based on my usual criteria to choose a pair: fit is most important, but nothing without interesting denim. I try to ignore the fact that some of these pairs are sold out or limited, the ranking would be my order of purchase if they all were still available.

 

1.) Denime 66XX. The most interesting fabric, and that before they show their fading (which will be awesome). Plus the fit is perfectly balanced between comfy and slim.

 

2.) Resolute 710. The best fit of the bunch plus a unique denim. Not what I normally am into, but that's exactly what makes them appealing to me. I'd wager to bet I'll get a pair in 2016.

 

 

3.) Evisu. I always wanted a pair of them and I acutally find the fit to be just fine.

 

4.) OOE OA02XX. I can't say I'm super enthusiastic about the fabric, but the craftmanship and knowing that Ryo and Hiro made them gives them a little bonus. And the fit is one of the best of the bunch. If they still had the made to order option I'd ranked them higher and ordered a pair in the 41 (or was it 43?) denim.

 

 

5. Sugar Cane Okinawa. Fantastic denim, unique details (almost too much for me), relaxed fit. Just a bit too wide for my liking.

 

6. Samurai S500JX-LR. The denim fades fantastic, the idea of combining LHT and RHT is crazy enough to make them interesting. Unfortunately they show what I dislike about some Samurai fits: straight, wide legs, slim short top block. They fit a lot like the 5000 and I can't stand that fit. I also think it would have made more sense to arrange the legs that way that the selvage seems are on the front of the legs, not on the back.




7. FC 1101. There's nothing wrong with these pants and I'd wear them gladly before considering some others. But the fit is a bit out of context - huge rise, combined with long legs and strong taper. Plus the lightest fabric - I feel like I need more substance.

That's it, they all were great pairs and there's not one pair that disappointed. In fact, there are a few I wouldn't have consiedered and do now. Thanks a gain for that great opportunity.

Edited December 19, 2015 by Max Power

[kiya]

I spent a lot of time thinking about what my favourite gear is, and in the last 12 months I think I finally nailed it. I don’t actually own that much in terms of clothing these days, nothing really superfluous, as I sold on just about everything that wasn’t regularly worn. So here’s my list…

 

(cut out all your favorites for the sake of brevity)

 

It seems like we have far more in common than our love of late 80's Brummie bands.

Edited December 19, 2015 by kiya

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks a lot Flo for all those reviews and fit pics!

Now it's up to you to decide which pair you wanna buy

[aho]

I actually prefer the fit of the Samurai's and FC's on you the most there Flo...

 

And since this is a thing:

 

Favorites:

 

Jacket: Full Count Type 1 - Perfect fit and lovely denim, I've worn this maybe every day for half the year since I've gotten it and it's possibly my favorite denim item I own after my jeans. If we're talking outerwear, I'm going with my Buzz N-1 as it hasn't failed me yet

 

Sweatshirt: Joe McCoy - picked a few of these up at Inspiration and they're warm, fit perfect for me and a solid go-to

 

T Shirt: I'm not as fancy as you all, so I'm going with beater Hanes Tee's or Polo (for shame)

 

Jeans: OA01XX- my favorite 40s/50s cut, OAXX fabric is subtle but has lots of character with time and wear, comfortable fabric, amazing sewing and details. Not for everyone perhaps but theres a certain beauty in it's simplicity, which also carries the soul of Ryo and Hiro. Contest Ooe's come in a close second if only they'd still fit me

 

Shoes: White's Farmer Rancher - solid construction, worn for two years straight and still haven't had to send them in for repairs or even heels. Nothing like the comfort of arch ease for my flat feet

[JohnM]

aho,

 

Great stuff and I think I just accidentally voted your post down rather than up.  My mistake, sorry.  So much for trying to press small buttons on a phone ;-)   Great recommendations, by the way.  Will be checking out the FC Type 1 jacket.

 

John

[JohnM]

aho,

 

What's the model number on the FC type 1 jacket?  Is it the one or two pocket model?  13.7 or 15.5 oz.?

 

Thanks.

John

[Iron Horse]

5. Sugar Cane Okinawa. Fantastic denim, unique details (almost too much for me), relaxed fit. Just a bit too wide for my liking.

 

IMO, these need to be worn with big, fat healthy double cuffs. When I single-cuff my 1947s, they look and feel odd.

[bradl]

aho,

What's the model number on the FC type 1 jacket? Is it the one or two pocket model? 13.7 or 15.5 oz.?

Thanks.

John

2107 and it would have the one pocket, two pockets will be the type II

[JohnM]

Thanks bradl.  I was just checking Denimio's website and see there are two FC type 1's, the original 2107 and the 2737, which is longer (overall and in sleeves) but narrower in the shoulders.

[redragon]

My list for the favorites:

 

Jacket - TCB Seamen Jumpers, great lightweight, neppy & irregular fabric perfect for tropical weather around here, always took this jacket when travelling overseas. The spacious front pockets is really useful.

 

Shirt - 

One of the most beautiful boro distressed western shirt from Kapital

 

T-shirts - Tezomeya, texture of the fabric even when undyed is amazing. The range of dyed colors they offered is also amazing.

 

Jeans - Ooe Yofukuten 9101XX, first experience taking part in a competition, will always have a special place in my memory. Fabric does not seem like much but through each wash, it gets better & better. Forever thankful I get to experience one of the last custom projects by Ryo & Hiro.

Evisu No.1 quite close 2nd, really love the fabric & clean constructions.

 

Shoes - New Balance, pure comfy & bliss.

[aho]

Editing my "list" to include a favorite shirt/button up:

 

Mister Freedom Appaloosa (Lot E): Unfortunately I outgrew this shirt as well, but plan to buy a new one in the next size up when I get a chance. The lot E denim is very comfortable with a slightly irregular weave and nep whose character comes out with more wear and washes. The fit is spot on, and the slight change of the pockets extending from the "yoke" of the front gives that slight Mister Freedom touch of originality all while feeling "familiar". Great buttons and stitching on the inside is a win on all fronts. Lot A tends to get the most love due to it's snowy appearance, but lot E is def. more comfortable for me. This thing shrinks though, so beware!

[bradl]

Thanks bradl. I was just checking Denimio's website and see there are two FC type 1's, the original 2107 and the 2737, which is longer (overall and in sleeves) but narrower in the shoulders.

Without looking at measurements it sounds like a slimmer fit too, more "modern"

^that's unfortunate aho, such a beautiful shirt.

[aho]

^Indeed, the 2737 is the "Tight Fit" model (http://www.fullcount-online.com/item/2737.html) which I got to try on when in Japan earlier this year. It's a bit TOO tight in my opinion, and I'd need to size up to account for it, but I'd def. prefer/recommend the regular fit which is already slim enough in my opinion. You'd need to be a real slim and short Japanese guy to pull off the slim I think but I'm a traditionalist!

[Geeman]

Sorry Aho my thick fat fingers neg reppd you by mistake