Lorcan

After going down the rabbit hole of google-fu/instagram stalking- I think this could be the guy who makes the Payday WWII jacket for them? https://www.instagram.com/coal_mine_2022/ Coalmine Guaranteed/ Yosuke Kamogawa seems to collab with Tatsumasa Onuki who is mentioned in one of the magazine articles in the Marquemaker Press section as brand director of Payday (unless translate is messing with me) but otherwise couldn't see him mentioned on their official site -or Payday anywhere on Onuki's social media - but he does describe himself as freelance designer, so maybe that's not surprising. I reckon he got the design gig and then got his mate with the artisanal denim business involved

For some reason I had it in my head that it was, but you're right it's its own thing as a revived brand and has other ownership. This seems to be the official site. For what seems like a fairly mainstream fashion conglomerate it seems funny they'd do stuff that edges into the one-man artisanal denim space. But perhaps that's just Japan for you 🤷‍♂️ Cockpit USA (leather jacket company) seem to have the licence to do Payday stuff in the US.

I’m still interested in CSF as a product as it still seems one of the better repros out there (and I missed the boat with it unfortunately) it’s just everything outside the physical product is a drag with CSF. in other Junky Classics and one-man craftsman related news I hadn’t realised some of their JC Penney Pay Day repros are now made that way (but they don’t say who the maker is). https://blog-classics.jugem.jp/?eid=3025#gsc.tab=0

I'm sure rarity probably does factor in to the mystique. But I would say the patterns are really good/ very vintage-y. Of the five 506XX's I own the Slash Overalls is probably my favourite cut. And as with indigoeagle I get the impression from his blog/insta that he is an obsessive with the patterns (among other things) and has his own philosophy as to what makes a good repro. Slash also seems to develop some distinctive wrinkle and puckering fades (like on waistband, collar) that are a bit extra. You can see here https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck3NyL3PUod/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== or https://www.instagram.com/p/DKEz7qUTl0c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== I really like it. Of course you can get some of that with other brands (my Tender denim jacket is developing some very tasty waistband crinkles) but it is part of the appeal.

How do you like the 66 model you got from him out of curiosity?

I’ve got about 12 months still to wait on a BoT 506xx 💀

Only ordered/preordered from them via proxy which is what he prefers. Yeah the ‘error edition’ Little Hand did for Lua were really too much for me, but the Neat Style model looks promising.

Looks like Neat Style are going to be stocking Little Hand now as well as the BoT and Denim Bridge WWII stuff https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6FfJDzH4S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Think this is some of the heaviest fades I've come across so far of the Warehouse Greenbaum denim. Getting cigarette burn repair at Rockets https://www.instagram.com/p/DLRA2K-TWNK/?img_index=1

Slash overalls 506xx in a size 40, still pretty mint looking on Mercari: https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m29926081869

Groover also do some 50s style acetate frames with wire nose pads. Not sure if they’re as nice as Hakusan but they do seem to have a few North Americans / overseas stockists https://spectacles.groover.tv/dealers/

Yeah taking a measuring tape to it now and mine's pretty close to the one wash measurements everywhere except the sleeves which have shortened to around 60cm. In practice the back length kinda sits up shorter when not pulled flat, but that's shaping/bunching around the cinch buckle with wear rather than shrinkage - might make a difference in the how the worn photo looks vs when new though.

hey, I wear a 42, I think I could wear a 40 for a very trim t-shirt only fit, although I suspect buttoning the collar on a 40 might be tight. I can fit a sweatshirt under the 42. I have FW outerwear in a mix of 40 and 42- I also have a 1922 506xx in a 40 which is a great fit (although I’ve also never machine washed it). Wear 17 in FW shirts (although I like a roomy fit in shirts) and a sweatshirt in a 40 for a trimmer fit so yeah bit of a mix even though I’d say FW is actually fairly consistent sizing compared to some brands. First photo is after 2 warm soaks and still probably larger than the listed one-wash measurements. 2nd photo is after 2 machine washes, plus another couple hand washes/soaks. Fit has been pretty stable after machine washing, lengths have continued shortening a bit, maybe some marginal overall tightening up but nothing too unpredictable.

Cooled down enough to be back in a 506 Neat Style x Denim Bridge WWII / ON tee / Joe McCoy belt / Freewheelers trackwalker / Nicks

Thanks, yeah measurements definitely look bigger than some brands. I have some Freewheelers shirts I really like but find their collar proportions are sometimes a bit small so the longer point collar on the Big Yank stuff appealed for a change of pace. I've tried the Rite Stuff before but mis-sized and it was nice but maybe I'd been spoiled by FW shirting as it didn't seem as special by comparison, maybe Big Yank won't either, will see I guess. Anatomica / Big Yank etc. seem to have a few different online stores... but maybe they all ship from the same place. I was looking at the 1920s yoke model