Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[BrownMetallic]

3/8" is the sweetest

Cool thing is that, the chainstitch hem seems to look even narrower as the denim gets thicker ... Tho, from experience, @round 13oz yields the best roping

[kiya]

For me it's essential that the jean be hemmed in its raw state.  With an unsanforized jean that's below 16oz in weight or so if its hemmed on a 3/8" folder and then hot soaked the hem looks extremely tight because of how much shrinkage you'll get during the initial soak.  Once the jean has been rinsed/soaked shrinkage goes from 10% to 3% so you won't really see the hem getting any tighter.

[cmboland]

I'll tell you right now though the shittiest hem jobs i've ever had were done by detroit denim. Check the first page on this thread for examples of that

 

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/159169-denim-blunders-reflections-and-general-nonsense/#entry3174971

[bradl]

Kind of over chain stitch, all of my hems have started to unravel from having them cuffed. Sucks that when one breaks its just a matter of time for the rest to follow

[cmboland]

^ I wont go out of my way for it but if it comes for free or stock then im game. My last pair i had hemmed I went to my local Italian tailor. Hell, for $10 I got a very clean hem and a beer!

[itsbenhere]

I'd love to chainstitch my jeans before they've touched water, but it's just too sketchy when you want something like a 30" inseam all said and done. I have to make sure that it fits post-wash and doesn't get too short...

 

That said, I'm surprised by how good the roping is on mine. I'm going to bet than in a year or two these 3005 will rival even the most roped jeans!

[dwilson123]

If you don't cuff your jeans the hem matters far less.  But I've never been a *huge* fan of cuffs.  I cuff more out of necessity of generally adding length to account for shrinkage and always leave around 0.50" more than I expect it to shrink.  I just lucked out the FH jeans shrunk so much I don't require a cuff.

 

I also heard hemming unsanf prior to soaking leads to greater roping since the denim shrinks around the hem but if that is true or not idk.  I've never had unsanf I've hemmed prior to shrinking up.

Edited December 15, 2015 by dwilson123

[Max Power]

In my experience it doesn't matter much wether the jeans have been chainstitched before or after washing / soaking. I know the main shrinkage is over then but all my pairs that were hemmed after soaking / washing developped perfect roping.

And, as you might know, I'm currently washing some denim cutoffs (the chainstitched hems) in my machine everytime I wash. And they nearly didn't develop any kind of roping. It's nut just the shrinkage and the washing, but also the abrasion from wearing them in a tubular shape. Washing helps bringing the effect out, but doesn't create it.

[denihilist]

I always get my jeans hemmed at self edge/BiG, always do them before soaking, and I don't ever get any real roping.

 

:shrugs:

[Geeman]

My reflection is that it's incredible how about 95% of chainstitched hems look like complete shit.

 

It seems like there's some brainwashing going on... people go out of their way to get the chainstitched hem because they argue the roping looks better and it's more authentic, yet they settle for a super thick hem that looks just as bad as lockstitched hems.

 

 

It's funny that you say that, what I forgot to mention in my original post is that after a while of being hypersensitive to this stuff, I almost don't even know what's thin vs thick...

 

That said, you can definitely see the difference here. Both hemmed at SELA, same 63200G, different folder mechanism.

 

 

 

To me, the bottom hem look so much better and more elegant, and I don't see the point in stopping the insanity at the hem, especially when you consider the fact that roping and chainstitching is pretty often talked about.

Hold on a sec..

Your opening point was 95% hems look Shit,  

2nd point is your not hypersensitive and can't tell the difference 

3rd point is a pic pointing out the difference on 2 hems that to me look no different really?

[itsbenhere]

When I say I'm so hypersensitive that it hurts my perception, I mean that I'm so used to seeing bad hems that my mindset when looking at a hem is that it's going to be thick and ugly because that's what I see 95% of the time. You see what you're looking for or expecting... So even if a hem is nice and thin, especially when looking at it far away, I'm going to think assume that it's thick because it usually is. I still think cmboland's hem looks significantly different from the factory chainstitch on my 3009.

 

On the other hand, the two hems that I posted are definitely different. If you don't think so or care that's obviously fine, but they do look appreciably different in the realm of chainstitching.

[xchen]

Hold on a sec..

Your opening point was 95% hems look Shit,  

2nd point is your not hypersensitive and can't tell the difference 

3rd point is a pic pointing out the difference on 2 hems that to me look no different really?

Probably look no different because the difference in hem size is only 1/8"...

[Rightyow77]

I've always gotten the best roping on denim chain stitched pre wash/soak. The puckering effect is a lot more pronounced. Maybe it is just a self fulfilling prophecy doe..

[goodrain]

had my hems redone at SELA. Definitely look a lot better than before but I think they might still be 1/16cm too wide by Ben's standards

[Max Power]

My occupation for the next days:

[Bobbo]

Haha, no wonder b_F needs to wear his Neutral jeans! 

 

What's the reason behind the try-outs?

[Max Power]

Curiosity. And it might help me decide which cuts and sizes I need - luckily b_f and me wear the same size.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Enjoy them! I hope it might help you for further purchases

[Bobbo]

Lots of fun stuff in that picture. Need to find myself a mate like b_F!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Luckily it also works the other way ‚round and Flo can send me his jeans

 

What size are you again Bobbo?

[Maynard Friedman]

How lovely gentlemen. In return, Max has sent b_F a selection of his favourite lederhosen to try on over Christmas!

It's a German tradition apparently...

[Bobbo]

^^ Hehe yeah, would be a shame if it was a one way deal! 

 

I'm a 32.

 

Edit: On another note, lately I was thinking of what garment I and others treasure the most. I think my A-2 from Alexander Leathers takes the top spot with my The Flat Head wabash on second place. It hits me every time I put them on how much enjoy them. 

 

What's your favourite piece(s)? 

Edited December 17, 2015 by Bobbo

[holio cornolio]

^ I have a pair of Barker Woody dress shoes that I love. Apart from those I tend to be a whore about my clothes, loving mainly what I'm in at the time. The exception to that would be a t shirt that I bought in TK Max I don't know how long ago. It's from a brand called huberman 56, which I've never managed to find anything out about. Everything is right about it, the feel, the cut and I like the print too. It's not loopwheeled but it's nicely constructed and seems to be holding up. I must have had it 7-8 years or more now...

[volvo240thebest]

nice topic, should I pick one item for every cathegory in my closet I'd go with:

 

hat donegal tweed hat by hanna hats

jacket TCB50's

jeans TCB60's

tshirt cheap army surplus russian telnyashka worn to perfection

shirt I don't have any japanese made utra cool shirts ATM, probably a very nice madras shirt by De Paz in Bologna

coat gloverall duffle coat

jumper have too many but love a turtleneck I had made to measure by South West chunkies

shoes hard choice, probably Tricker's but I see myself using waymore the Iron Rangers, so maybe IR more correct

[Max Power]

Will try my best to do some reviews / comparisons of the pairs in the brand's threads over the next few days, for those intrested.

[pudaspriest]

favorites

 

jacket -- buzz x gibson ma-1

shirt -- ues flannel

jeans -- samurai s001jp

t shirt -- tezomeya

shoes -- iron rangers

sweatshirt -- deluxeware

socks -- darn tough

[oomslokop]

or do it here max, so they're all in the one thread. look forward to it.

[Max Power]

Sorry, too late. But I'll insert all the fitpics in here once I got them, so you can see a comparison.

[Geeman]

Will try my best to do some reviews / comparisons of the pairs in the brand's threads over the next few days, for those intrested.

That would be quite interesting Max. Sometimes I think our opinions/reviews of our own jeans and stuff can be skewed by things like justifying the cost, brand loyalty, the time spent researching, the money spent and even public opinion etc. It would be good to get an unbiased side by side review/comparison of a selection of brands by someone who hasn't actually had to purchase them first.

Of course some of the above would still influence you from your own experience of some of the brand's, but it will be interesting what you choose to go with afterwards

[Bobbo]

Isn't there a fit pic thread called How do jeans fit or something like that?