SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[oomslokop]

On 3/23/2024 at 2:49 PM, 81FXR said:

I don’t mind the marbling really it’s the long vertical wash lines you get down random parts of the leg which look bad to me as it’s very clearly a washing mishap and not a naturally formed crease.

this used to happen a lot with my cone denim even though they're lighter ounces when washed right side out but the lines eventually fade out anyway

[hazel]

Hey, does anyone know of a good denim repair service in the EU, ideally Germany? I have an LVC S501XX with a crotch blowout. Levis official tailor shop was unable to fix it. Considering sending them to the Denim Doctor but was wondering if there is sth. closer.

[Thanks_M8]

^there is jeans doktor in waiblingen, ruttloff garments, dc4 offers repairs and statement probably knows a tailorshop for this.

Tbh I bring my jeans to the tailor 2 blocks away and the job is great. 

[hazel]

1 hour ago, Thanks_M8 said:

^there is jeans doktor in waiblingen, ruttloff garments, dc4 offers repairs and statement probably knows a tailorshop for this.

Tbh I bring my jeans to the tailor 2 blocks away and the job is great. 

Cool thanks! Will check those out. I was surprised that Levis' tailor could/would not deal with my pair, hence I was looking for sth. more specialised than my neighbourhood tailor. Bu maybe I will try that as well.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

There is also the Jeans Lazaret. She is on Instagram 

[heyson]

Not a question at all, more of a vent. But I wish I didn’t blow out the knees in all my pants. I must have really pointy knees or something

[El Fanatico]

Hey Gang, Any recommendations on best ways to sell off denim these days? I don't even remember what I used previously. I have ~ 5 pairs (Flathead, IH, Stevenson, Resolute) that didn't work out size wise. Thanks in advance!!!

[AnOldFolkSong]

There's a community sale thread

[yung_flynn]

What brands sell denim jackets that are agreeable for taller and slimmer frames? I have a good grasp on shirt and blazer sizing, but for some reason I can't quite wrap my head around correlating denim jacket size charts to real life fit. For reference, I'm usually a 34 - 35 inch sleeve in shirts depending on how wide the armhole and shoulders are and a 39" chest for typically a 40 L blazer (21-22" p2p).

I'm looking around at Type 2 repros for spring - fall. Sugarcane 1953, the new Denime 2002xx (or WH 2002xx if it's restocked), and TCB 50's jacket all seem like they would work in theory - enough sleeve length without a massive chest

[Maynard Friedman]

The Eternal Type II (if you can still find one) is a modern cut with longer body and sleeves and fantastic denim.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

It’s not a repro jacket, but Companion Denim’s interpretation is sort of cut like a type 3 with a hybrid between 2/3 sort of details. Mine is heretically sanforized old stock Cone denim with poly stitching, but it’s really nicely done. It’s my slimmest jacket which is the main reason I’m not in it more often, but it still fits and still gets good use.

If I wanted a longer/slimmer jacket I’d probably look at type 3 iterations generally. 

I’m 5’8”, 150 lb, with a 40” chest and 30” waist and I’ve found that while I can wear the slimmer things, the boxier versions give me more room around/chest shoulders which is why I prefer them - probably a bit opposite of you. 

I will say my Sugar Cane 1953 (I have the blanket lined) in size 38 works pretty well for me, but I wish it were about an inch or so shorter in the body. Again, that’s a point in your favor. 

Edited April 4 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[yung_flynn]

55 minutes ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

f I wanted a longer/slimmer jacket I’d probably look at type 3 iterations generally. 

I’m 5’8”, 150 lb, with a 40” chest and 30” waist and I’ve found that while I can wear the slimmer things, the boxier versions give me more room around/chest shoulders which is why I prefer them - probably a bit opposite of you. 

I will say my Sugar Cane 1953 (I have the blanket lined) in size 38 works pretty well for me, but I wish it were about an inch or so shorter in the body. Again, that’s a point in your favor. 

Great this all sounds good. I don't necessarily want a slim jacket just one where the sleeves will fit my arms without a truly massive chest from sizing up 2-3 sizes. Sugarcane 1953 in size 40 should work for me, just need to doublecheck body length. Drop shoulders of Type 2 actually work great since narrow shoulders are what limit a lot of Japanese made tops for me

Edited April 4 by yung_flynn

[Talan]

What can be the maximum wash temperature without threatening to overcook the leather brand patch?

[Maynard Friedman]

^ I’d say it probably depends on the quality, type and thickness of leather used on the patch (I’m sure @Duke Mantee and others here can give a more informed view) but from my experience I wouldn’t go higher than 60°. Anything higher and you can turn the denim bland too - boil-washed jeans!
 

[Duke Mantee]

Most patches are ‘designed’ fit some shrinkage … ie it’ll be fine when you follow washing instructions (40°C would be the upper normal) 

I boil washed (90°C) the bootleggers denim jacket and the leather shrank to about 2/3 size.

Leather isn’t a woven material and depending on the tannage has the potential to shrink enormously.

[vlad_III]

On 4/5/2024 at 2:42 AM, yung_flynn said:

What brands sell denim jackets that are agreeable for taller and slimmer frames? I have a good grasp on shirt and blazer sizing, but for some reason I can't quite wrap my head around correlating denim jacket size charts to real life fit. For reference, I'm usually a 34 - 35 inch sleeve in shirts depending on how wide the armhole and shoulders are and a 39" chest for typically a 40 L blazer (21-22" p2p).

I'm looking around at Type 2 repros for spring - fall. Sugarcane 1953, the new Denime 2002xx (or WH 2002xx if it's restocked), and TCB 50's jacket all seem like they would work in theory - enough sleeve length without a massive chest

What about the opposite?

every denim jacket I’ve had was too long in the arms. By the time it fits me in the chest the arms are so long that my fingers barely peak out. To me it seems they are mostly cut for slim frames. Especially all Japanese brands. 

[81FXR]

Does anyone know of a maker with a decent selection of Women’s jeans?

My other half wants a pair of regular/wide straights with a high waist in some kind of dry selvedge. I’m sure I remember LVC having a pretty good range at one point but no longer seems to be the case.

Anatomica’s 618 Marilyn looks absolutely on the money but sadly only goes up to 30. Ideally she’d want a 34 or 36.

Edited April 16 by 81FXR

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Railcar makes women’s, but I’m not sure about their current offerings. so does Raleigh Denim, but they’re comically overpriced even as they’re quite well made. 
 

Honestly I’d try a pair of fullcount 0105s - I’ve thought about getting a pair for my wife. 

[unders]

@81FXR I think LVC are running the 701 at the moment: https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/levis-vintage-clothing/levis-vintage-clothing-for-women/1950s-701-womens-jeans/p/507010036

edit: actually, looking at the silhouette pictures of these, they don’t fit the bill - look very tapered which I wouldn’t expect from a 50s model (but I’m no expert on women’s fits). 

Edited April 17 by unders

[julian-wolf]

“Selection” is maybe the limiting criterion. Lots of brands seem to do one or two okay women’s cuts, these days, but no one seems to have more than a couple of options.

Meanwhile, obviously all jeans are more or less gender agnostic in principle, but how well they work in practice depends completely on body type. Around how is your partner shaped? If they’re big in the hips and don’t fit well into standard men’s jeans, the TCB Norma could be a really good option; I’ve also seen curvier women friends make ‘90s Cane’s work well.

Edited April 17 by julian-wolf

[Punch]

Take a look here https://lenoandco.com/products/list.php?category_id=6

[smoothsailor]

Dawson denim makes a wide fit women’s pair

[81FXR]

Nice, thanks all.

I might’ve imagined the better choice in LVC but I’m sure I remember going into Cinch in Soho and seeing a decent range of women’s styles somewhere in-line with the styles available to men. This was obviously a number of years ago, still Cone days.
 

TCB Norma look nice but like the Anatomica only seem to go up to about a 30. 

I actually have a bnwt pair of 0105 sitting in the closet which she tried and with the right waist size might work well. 

Dawson looks like a good option also!

Edited April 18 by 81FXR

[unders]

@81FXR You’re right, LVC have done ‘proper’ women’s ranges int he past, rather than a token one or two models. 

[Georg]

tcbjeans.myshopify.com is fake, right?

[chicote]

5 minutes ago, Georg said:

tcbjeans.myshopify.com is fake, right?

No, that's the official TCB online store. If you go to TCB's official blog / main website  and click on the shop icon on the top right, it takes you to their shopify site.

[Georg]

3 hours ago, chicote said:

No, that's the official TCB online store. If you go to TCB's official blog / main website  and click on the shop icon on the top right, it takes you to their shopify site.

Thank you! The rather low € prices confused me. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The Yen is historically low for some time. 

[Georg]

3 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The Yen is historically low for some time. 

Do you also know something about taxes and fees ?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Depends on your country but since you wrote € you are in the EU.
Everything you buy in Japan is without VAT but you have to pay that when you import it. And the above 150€ value you also have to pay customs fees which are 12% on top (IIRC).
So for Germany, as an example, you would add 31% (19%+12%) when importing.