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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

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@Double 0 Soul nice one, will look them up... do you have any tips for washing these shirts?  

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very nice @MJF9 ... very nice indeed ...

the sun surf rayon I have I machine wash as silk ie very gentle [whereas the label says dry clean only, but that is a command I cannot obey...]

[have been looking through the lightning Aloha Shirt edition ... and this episode of clutch man tv has excellent visit to museum with vintage pieces on show and discussion of fabric and more ... check the picture of John Meigs at 7.11 for old school version of how to wear it ...]

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@bartlebyyphonics thanks for the link... there’s a big new world out there

Re your silk machine wash... did you get any shrink?

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9 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@bartlebyyphonics thanks for the link... there’s a big new world out there

Re your silk machine wash... did you get any shrink?

Hey! With silk wash, gentle whisper of a spin, line dry; No shrink or mis-shaping from the fabric, maybe the beginning of a clench (but not yet a pucker) of stitching... All this being said, the fabric print I have is the mackintosh ukulele; so slightly slacker-spongebob-psychedelia feeling which would benefit rather than suffer from a wrinkle and a crumple in the long run; for the more precisely pattern matched, highly technical prints (the hyper technical onagadori, the land of aloha, the kimono rayon silk crepe) or the more minimal (ie the duke's pineapple) I can see the need to keep fabric in mint condition...

keeping it away from high heats of tumble dryer would be pretty important imo... [but, not a natural rayon expert...]

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How are Jelado shirts sized? Interested in the Railroader, in particular—leaning XL (my usual Japanese size), but any advice is appreciated

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Are most denim heads hands-on people.  This is the impression I get from seeing entire outfits

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Posted (edited)

We’re either hands-on people or we’re cosplaying as them…

Edited by julian-wolf
typo

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1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

We’re either hands-on people or we’re consplaying as them…

I see what you mean.  Sometimes, the physique betrays the wearer

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About Iron Heart

Is it neither a workwear repro label nor a Japanese heritage brand

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22 minutes ago, unders said:

@Lalafufu The clue is in the name. Bike wear. 

Pretty bad azz imo

the raw denim brand for outlaw bikers

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Or middle aged guys with 300 quid to spend on a flannel

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Where’s the best place to buy (good quality) hardware for belts? I’m thinking all aspects - buckles, keepers, studs, snaps etc.

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Weaver, tandy and the likes. I use ds-leder and leder-hobby from germany, but there are probably scottish or british retailers of the stuff. Usually they carry it all in one.

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Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Geeman said:

Or middle aged guys with 300 quid to spend on a flannel

Something about the design of iron heart jeans gives them a premium look

same with Momotaros 

samurai Tanuki Oni are also at the top of the food chain, but the prior two brands look expensive

Edited by Lalafufu

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11 hours ago, Thanks_M8 said:

Weaver, tandy and the likes. I use ds-leder and leder-hobby from germany, but there are probably scottish or british retailers of the stuff. Usually they carry it all in one.

Thank you

i knew Tandy but Scotland isn’t really ‘online’ yet - good craft stores are small and often do little (understandably) to sell other than physical sales

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No problem, u could also try searching reddit.com/r/leathercraft. Probably has been asked before on there.

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14 hours ago, Lalafufu said:

Something about the design of iron heart jeans gives them a premium look

same with Momotaros 

samurai Tanuki Oni are also at the top of the food chain, but the prior two brands look expensive

Is there a question here or are you just letting us know these things? 

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Yeah, I would argue that none of those brands are near the top end of the quality spectrum these days…

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@Broark I’d agree for the most part, but I’ll say that as someone who really works their denim hard. Iron heart definitely is top tier for an actual work jeans. 
Momotaro and Samurai is cool just because they’re one of the pioneer brands in my opinion. 
Oni was rad before they went mainstream. 
Never heard of Tanuki. Haha 

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@shredwin_206 it is all relative for sure. I don't wear my jeans super hard, so durable work jeans aren't something I'm necessarily interested in..
I don't like heavy denim or poly stitching, two things IH seems to specialize in. And I think their product has become massively overvalued in recent years.
I also don't like overly flashy looking denim, Samurai / Oni / Tanuki all fall into that bucket.
Samurai kind of fell off in my eyes once they got rid of the tab and arcs (same applies to FC).

So, really all of these are quality jeans, they're just not ticking the boxes I'm after these days.

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5 hours ago, Broark said:

Yeah, I would argue that none of those brands are near the top end of the quality spectrum these days…

 

4 hours ago, Broark said:

@shredwin_206 it is all relative for sure. I don't wear my jeans super hard, so durable work jeans aren't something I'm necessarily interested in..
I don't like heavy denim or poly stitching, two things IH seems to specialize in. And I think their product has become massively overvalued in recent years.
I also don't like overly flashy looking denim, Samurai / Oni / Tanuki all fall into that bucket.
Samurai kind of fell off in my eyes once they got rid of the tab and arcs (same applies to FC).

So, really all of these are quality jeans, they're just not ticking the boxes I'm after these days.

Who do you personally have at the top in terms of quality?

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, shredwin_206 said:

@Broark I’d agree for the most part, but I’ll say that as someone who really works their denim hard. Iron heart definitely is top tier for an actual work jeans. 
Momotaro and Samurai is cool just because they’re one of the pioneer brands in my opinion. 
Oni was rad before they went mainstream. 
Never heard of Tanuki. Haha 

I would hype myself up in the past for Tanuki releases.  Then see them irl and accept they aren’t for me.  The details for the design look too cute and lead to a cartoonish looking jean

if you’re Seattle BlueOwl has a great relationship with Tanuki and stocks a ton of them!

Edited by Lalafufu

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1 minute ago, Lalafufu said:

Who do you personally have at the top in terms of quality?

Really depends your personal tastes and what kind of scale we're talking about.
Right now Freewheelers has been ticking all the boxes for me with everything they offer.
From shirts, jackets, jeans and tees all their offerings are top notch from the patterning to the materials used.
Warehouse is right up there for me as well. Their offerings are consistent and their pricing is reasonable, they have a big catalog too. 
I'm also into smaller brands Ooe Yofukuten and Roy, although neither of them are widely available, especially with Roy closing up shop.
Other honorable mentions include: Sugar Cane, Mister Freedom, At Last & Co / Timeworn Clothing, OrSlow, Stevenson, Tender.

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I think all of those brands are relatively similar in regards to quality, at least in regards to durability - that is to say - they're plenty good for most people who are into jeans more for the fashion of them...which would mostly be the group here as well. Some of the looser weave weird stuff won't hold up as well. Maybe there will be slight discrepancies in stitch quality that again for most people won't provide any functional difference. 

Brands with polyester stitching (IH) generally would hold up longer but most denimheads don't actually want that because it's less aesthetically or materially desirable. 

I think the main factor here that actually drives people is design and aesthetics - and the brands you mention are pretty unappealing to me personally because of poor patterning or patterning that doesn't age well (too trendy) or garish or overly novel design strategies that just...try too hard. Momo's battle stripes are fugly as hell, Samurai is cool and all but not for me just too over the top and IH doesn't interest me at all because I'm not a biker, I don't aspire to represent a biker, I don't think bikers are any more cool or tough or whatever sort of image they want to sell with it. Even if I still were riding I wouldn't buy any IH. 

Stuff that interests me most these days generally comes from Tender, Cottle, Mister Freedom, stuff like that...for overall wardrobe I generally prefer designers who have a coherent vision that is clearly something beyond just remaking old classics in the most meticulous and accurate possible way...but even though I'm not really a big repro guy overall - for just blue jeans, I do think it's hard to beat the staples like TCB, Warehouse or SugarCane. Ooe if you can get them maybe. 

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6 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I think all of those brands are relatively similar in regards to quality, at least in regards to durability - that is to say - they're plenty good for most people who are into jeans more for the fashion of them...which would mostly be the group here as well. Some of the looser weave weird stuff won't hold up as well. Maybe there will be slight discrepancies in stitch quality that again for most people won't provide any functional difference. 

Brands with polyester stitching (IH) generally would hold up longer but most denimheads don't actually want that because it's less aesthetically or materially desirable. 

I think the main factor here that actually drives people is design and aesthetics - and the brands you mention are pretty unappealing to me personally because of poor patterning or patterning that doesn't age well (too trendy) or garish or overly novel design strategies that just...try too hard. Momo's battle stripes are fugly as hell, Samurai is cool and all but not for me just too over the top and IH doesn't interest me at all because I'm not a biker, I don't aspire to represent a biker, I don't think bikers are any more cool or tough or whatever sort of image they want to sell with it. Even if I still were riding I wouldn't buy any IH. 

Stuff that interests me most these days generally comes from Tender, Cottle, Mister Freedom, stuff like that...for overall wardrobe I generally prefer designers who have a coherent vision that is clearly something beyond just remaking old classics in the most meticulous and accurate possible way...but even though I'm not really a big repro guy overall - for just blue jeans, I do think it's hard to beat the staples like TCB, Warehouse or SugarCane. Ooe if you can get them maybe. 

How to tell if jeans have a looser weave?  And do looser weaves stretch more?

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^u could hold the denim against light, sunlight works best imo. The more light comes through the weave/between the threads the looser the weave, basically. Usually there's more room to stretch on a looser weave, but it also depends on the different threads and so on, so a case by case thing. 

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Everyone has their own thing when we’re doing our fashion selfies. I hate myself in photos - it’s a chore that makes me so angry, grrr … so I grit my teeth, look at the camera and get it done.

Now that you understand my situation I’d like ask those that don’t look at the camera - what the f-ck are you looking at? :huh2:

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I just always chop my head off 9 times out of 10. :ph34r:

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If I’m not looking at the camera, I usually just pretend that I’m looking at something.

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