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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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Oh, I like black wefts too. 3sixteen’s shadow selvedge is exceptional 

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The more colourful the better, in my opinion.

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I don't particularly dislike colored weft jeans, but I also find that I don't end up wearing them as much as normal jeans.
Grey is fine, as it still gives a similar level of contrast as a normal pair.  The OA 17 denim is one of my all time favorites and the weft had a grey tinge to it.
Indigo if fine too, but I find that they look too much like dress pants or chinos early on due to the lack of contrast.

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Oh yeah, I'm perfectly fine with indigo or black wefts. I agree about indigo/indigo when new though, it looks more like a chino fabric at first and doesn't really start to look good until after it's been worn a few months.

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I don't mind colored wefts, but many of them are in made for the purpose of creating higher contrast fades which isn't really something I care about. 

There was a PBJ-Pronto collaboration that used orange weft denim a few years back, and it was just hideous. Considering that orange and blue opposites on the color, it really brought "high contrast" to a new level. 

 

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8 hours ago, ColonelAngus said:

Oh, I like black wefts too. 3sixteen’s shadow selvedge is exceptional 

I only have the jacket,  but agree the shadow selvedge is really nice with great colour contrasts

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Shadow Selvedge were my first pair of selvedge jeans and agreed that they're really nice.  Don't wear them much these days but not a pair I want to get rid of either.

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On 8/27/2019 at 11:04 PM, cusswords said:

I don't mind colored wefts, but many of them are in made for the purpose of creating higher contrast fades which isn't really something I care about. 

There was a PBJ-Pronto collaboration that used orange weft denim a few years back, and it was just hideous. Considering that orange and blue opposites on the color, it really brought "high contrast" to a new level. 

  

I bet that would kill it in Denver. Like next-level Zubaz.

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Just curious, do most of you on here who buy one wash styles usually wash the denim before first wear?  I've been debating this regarding my new one wash pair from Trophy regarding hemming and shrinkage.

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I got some one-wash Full Counts a year ago, and I just wore them. Didn't have any additional shrinkage, but in my case the jeans' one-wash clearly involved a tumble dry, and I didn't hem them.

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Interviews with Shinichi Haraki of Iron Heart and Toru Nogami of Samurai are up.  I'm not selling anything or advertising anything so hopefully it's okay to post a link here. Hopefully will be of interest to some of you. Enjoy!

 

www.japanalogue.com

 

Edited by thunderball

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9 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Just curious, do most of you on here who buy one wash styles usually wash the denim before first wear?  I've been debating this regarding my new one wash pair from Trophy regarding hemming and shrinkage.

i just wear them.

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11 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Just curious, do most of you on here who buy one wash styles usually wash the denim before first wear?  I've been debating this regarding my new one wash pair from Trophy regarding hemming and shrinkage.

I do, there’s usually a bit more shrink left in them

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On 9/1/2019 at 7:59 AM, mlwdp said:

Just curious, do most of you on here who buy one wash styles usually wash the denim before first wear?  I've been debating this regarding my new one wash pair from Trophy regarding hemming and shrinkage.

I usually give them a warmish soak. Who knows, maybe people in the store were trying it on.

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On 8/31/2019 at 7:59 PM, mlwdp said:

Just curious, do most of you on here who buy one wash styles usually wash the denim before first wear?  I've been debating this regarding my new one wash pair from Trophy regarding hemming and shrinkage.

If you're going to hem, I would recommend washing or soaking however you plan to in the future.  

If they end up shrinking some, you'll be glad you did.  If they don't shrink, then they just got wet and you couldn't wear them for a day...no loss in the long run. 

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I will still give them a warm soak, like fresh1 said, if they shrink before hemming, you'll be glad you did, nothing to lose otherwise.

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Couple of recent reflections:

- Full Count's 13.7 oz. denim is really great, and my 1108s have aged much faster than I expected. Only downside is not much honeycomb action.

- One-washes that include machine drying suck. The inseam on my 1108s looks like a mess, part of it might be somewhat poor construction but I think that mostly the rough one-wash and machine dry damaged the 100% cotton stitching. Lots of spots where the chainstitch has busted, and a few other loose threads around the crotch seam.

- My Eternal 811 have the best one-wash I've encountered. They were fully shrunk (no additional shrinkage after a wash), and had a very stiff feel right out of the box, just like I'd done it myself.

- Aside from the back pockets, my Samurai S710s I bought back in 2012 have held up incredibly well despite the cotton thread stitching. No inseam thread breakage.

- Out of the Japanese jeans I've owned, I actually think my Eternal 811s have the best construction. Can't find any real flaws, very neat construction on the inseam in particular. Maybe the back pocket stitching is not quite as good as Flat Head or Full Count.

- Jeans with a hem of about 8" have become my ideal, because they look good with both sneakers and boots, and are wide enough to accommodate engineer boots.

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Alright, it really bothers me how a lot of people (especially on Reddit and Instagram) call any denim with roughness or texture "slubby."

"Slub" is not a catch-all term, it refers very specifically to a type of thread that has varying thickness along its length. Flat Head, Eternal, Full Count, etc. are not "slubby." Pure Blue Japan's main denim is.

With something like my Strike Gold jacket made from the 5109 denim, it has a crazy textured feel, but it's due to the weaving and rough cotton, the threads aren't actually "slubby."

Yes, I know this is really pedantic but it's been bothering me for a while.

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Just get it off your chest mate, it's ok we are here for you:D

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On 9/15/2019 at 9:46 PM, Cold Summer said:

- Jeans with a hem of about 8" have become my ideal, because they look good with both sneakers and boots, and are wide enough to accommodate engineer boots.

I think I need a new pair of engineers then. my White's have a huge shaft and won't accomodate a 8'' hem width at all. 8,5 feels too tight and "wrong". Looks good from 9''.

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My boots are Wesco's 7500, which apparently have a smaller shaft than normal. Yeah, 8.5-9" is probably safer generally for engineers.

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19 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

My boots are Wesco's 7500, which apparently have a smaller shaft than normal. Yeah, 8.5-9" is probably safer generally for engineers.

That’s because you have the MP toe, like I do.  If you ride motorcycles, the Boss toe is your best bet.  MP Toe is just for looks IMO and relating to a few Japanese boots like Attractions, etc who have narrower shafts.

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Jack's stuff

 

Wish I was as cool as my son .... :D

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Not sure what to think of 3sixteen's new shawl release. On the one hand, I really dig what 3sixteen does and I like the majority of what they put out. On the other hand, as a fashion piece I find the shawl a bit out of place. I can see it having merit if you were to use it camping or working on a ranch, but wearing it in an urban environment seems weird. It's like that Seinfeld episode where Elaine comes up with the urban sombrero

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It's a little weird and not my thing, but I appreciate how 3Sixteen has tried risky stuff (leopard prints! Bucket hats!) outside the minimalist street-work aesthetic. They have a good balance between their flexible core collection of items, and more ambitious seasonal stuff.

I've been re-reading this thread and feel awful for how much I bash the "repro" brands. I love Full Count now, my 1108s are awesome jeans not because they're a "reproduction", but because they're an extremely well-done rendition of a classic, traditional jeans aesthetic that goes with anything. I also came around on Warehouse and like their marble-y fades, so I'd be game if somebody puts out the 800 in a 34" (or longer) inseam. Something like CSF is probably taking things a bit far for me, though, particularly considering the high cost.

I think FC, WH, Denime, Resolute etc. have a very natural yet detailed fade and aesthetic that crosses the boundaries of season and fashion style, and you don't really get that from slubby/slack weave/super heavy denim that can feel very connected to one aesthetic. I would like to see more denim nerds wearing those brands with varying styles, like Japanese slacker ivy, that are a bit outside the standard moc-toes-and-work-shirts look. Flipping through Full Count and Warehouse's lookbooks provide some nice inspiration, and I wish I'd seen that years ago before I pigeonholed those brands into the construction and railroad look.

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@Cold Summer

I guess that's what running a brand is all about -- taking risks. But, 3sixteen has far more hits than misses so they're clearly doing something right.

As for bashing brands, nothing wrong with criticism imo. I'm not a big fan of the tapered carrot leg trend that's really popular right now but if there's demand for it then who am I to argue? I'll just stick with cuts that i'm familiar with.

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Yeah, I don't like the extreme taper thing either. I don't have the right body type for it anyway, but it still strikes me as weird. These days the "middle straight" (Samurai S0500xx, Eternal 811, Full Count 1108) fits work best for my needs. I don't think a relaxed tapered fit is a bad idea, a fit like the Flat Head 3009 does it right. The problem is how so many of these fits have ridiculously small hems at like 6.5" in my size. Such fits would look better and more proportional with a hem about 1" bigger. Maybe they scale up better in the larger sizes.

Man, I am still slapping myself for that dumb dive into streetwear and SLP style I did back in 2016. What a waste that turned out to be. And I did stupid things like sell NOS Samurai S0500xx and my irreplaceable Flat Head engineer boots because I thought I should try dressing like a fake rock star. Ugh.

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