Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

So here's a question for people. Have any of you found your absolute perfect Jean ? So spot on you could never buy another pair.

 

If I was only able to buy Fullcount 1109 from now on, I'd be cool with that. I've never had a pair of jeans that I've worn constantly, and then wanted to replace with exactly the same pair, but I'm now on my 3rd pair of 1109 in a row.

 

I've actually gone off a lot of the little touches that I used to really love on brands like Samurai, Flathead, Momotaro etc - silver or pink selvedge, interesting arcs, coloured pocket linings, super heavy or textured denim.

 

I love the simplicity of FC. On first glance they could be 501s, nothing too showy about them, but look again... For those that know.

[kiya]

Here's something many in this thread will be interested in.. there is a film coming out, one about Japanese denim and its makers.

World premiere is in San Francisco on August 6th at the Castro Theater: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castro_Theatre

The film is called Weaving Shibusa, trailer will be ready in a week or so.  

Here are the credits to get you hot and bothered:

 

Produced, directed, edited by Devin Leisher

 

Camera and production by Devin Leisher, Erik Motta, and Mehdi ahmadi

 

Executive Producers Scott rodgers, Scott fletcher, Kiya babzani

 

Produced by Kiya babzani, Kevin Steinberger, Yuri matsuoka, Gordon Hefner 

 

Soundtrack by Young Lee

 

Addition interpretation by Kevin Steinberger and Yuri matsuoka

 

Translation by Aki takahashi

 

Featuring

Mikiharu Tsujita (fullcount)

Hisao Manabe (Japan blue)

Atsusuke tagaya (stevenson)

Atsushi Matsushima (clutch, lightning)

Yutaka Fujihara (BerBerJin, fake alpha)

Kazuhiko hanzawa (Marvin's vintage)

Masayoshi Kobayashi (flat head)

Hajime inoue (TCB)

Shinichi Haraki (iron heart)

Etsuko Satou (shinya mills)

Edited July 12, 2016 by kiya

[oomslokop]

devin leisher = dfreshleish?

[Bobbo]

^Yep!

[garden gnomes in space]

cool, glad thats coming to fruition!

[emgee420]

I think my next stab at the perfect jean will be try the the flathead 3009.

 

On paper the measurements looks great. But then they always do... 

 

the 3009s are awesome i recommend them (roomy thighs/smallish opening)

 

as far as my perfect pair right now, its my eternal 883. fit is perfect for me, love the denim, details. i pick up other jeans but these seem to get the most wear.

 

i do have momo 0701s en-route so maybe there will be a new perfect pair in the making

Edited July 12, 2016 by emgee420

[jstavrin]

Fitpic pls on rhose br jawnz

 

 

I wanna see some evo pics!

 

My 3005 are probably pretty perfect as far as regular jeans though. 

 

But there's always room for a couple more pairs of perfection, specifically hank-dyed or persimmon.

 

 

Pics are coming, I promise! The fading isn't really pronounced yet. 

 

I'll put up some pictures of my 47s, too, as they're looking fantastic now. 

[spitfiredealer]

the 3009s are awesome i recommend them (roomy thighs/smallish opening)

 

Going to Rivet & Hide in a few weeks so will get to try a pair on.

[Ciabatta]

Make sure the waist won't be too small. Small waist + low rise = havoc on your junk.

[spitfiredealer]

Thanks for the tip.

[itsbenhere]

Hope these help, I'm sure you can get a great fit if you're trying them on. Enjoy them!

 

 

Shrinkage ...

 

Shit shrinks a lot, just go get an idea.

 

3009

 

 

 

3005

 

 

 

 

[VivaMarlon]

Here's something many in this thread will be interested in.. there is a film coming out, one about Japanese denim and its makers.

World premiere is in San Francisco on August 6th at the Castro Theater: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castro_Theatre

The film is called Weaving Shibusa, trailer will be ready in a week or so.  

Here are the credits to get you hot and bothered:

 

Produced, directed, edited by Devin Leisher

 

Camera and production by Devin Leisher, Erik Motta, and Mehdi ahmadi

 

Executive Producers Scott rodgers, Scott fletcher, Kiya babzani

 

Produced by Kiya babzani, Kevin Steinberger, Yuri matsuoka, Gordon Hefner 

 

Soundtrack by Young Lee

 

Addition interpretation by Kevin Steinberger and Yuri matsuoka

 

Translation by Aki takahashi

 

Featuring

Mikiharu Tsujita (fullcount)

Hisao Manabe (Japan blue)

Atsusuke tagaya (stevenson)

Atsushi Matsushima (clutch, lightning)

Yutaka Fujihara (BerBerJin, fake alpha)

Kazuhiko hanzawa (Marvin's vintage)

Masayoshi Kobayashi (flat head)

Hajime inoue (TCB)

Shinichi Haraki (iron heart)

Etsuko Satou (shinya mills)

Wow, had been looking for information on this recently cause I hadn't seen any updates for a while.  Would like to be able to plan a trip to San Francisco around it but otherwise, hope it comes to LA.

[kiya]

Wow, had been looking for information on this recently cause I hadn't seen any updates for a while.  Would like to be able to plan a trip to San Francisco around it but otherwise, hope it comes to LA.

 

 

You should come up for this.  We will most probably only had a SF premier (August 6th) and a NY premier in the fall.

[itsbenhere]

I've been looking forward to this movie for so long... I liked the other one he made but I think this one will be way more interesting!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I really wish to find that „one pair“ of jeans I can buy every two years and would be done with it. In this aspect I envy TheIntelligentHoodwinker who found his pair.

I think we are spoilt for choice with so many brands doing great jeans.

 

For the perfect jeans many aspects have to be right: the fit has to feel good and look good. The fabric has to be right and also versatile. The little details are to me quite important. And also the fading shouldn’t be neglected. A pair of jeans where I know I like the outcome is sometimes more motivating. And also an important aspect: the jeans have to be readily available. If your favorite pair turns out to be a limited edition you might have some problems unless you bought a big stockpile (in multiple sizes in case your body changes).

For example:

·         I like the little details Full Count puts in their jeans

·         I like the way Warehouse denim feels and fades

·         I love the way my WH 1105 fit but for my dream pair I’d rather have the 1000XX denim and button fly

·         I like the ethos and perfection of Ryo&Hiro from Ooe

 

I have often thought to myself: now I have the perfect jeans I will luckily buy a second pair from. But some months later with new jeans in between this feeling is often gone. If I could I would buy some pairs of old Denime 66XX I would regularly buy them. But all in all a regular go-to pair isn’t really needed with a big collection.

And I probably would have the feeling to miss out on some things.

 

Last but not least: with so many great brands doing good or perfect reproductions of Levi’s 501, for me none of them have achieved this feeling of “I just buy me a new pair of 501â€.

Although on Instagram I see a lot of people just stick to Resolute 710 for example.

Maybe it’s also just because we are too much into this stuff that we know and demand too much from one pair. Probably people with less experience are easier to satisfy…and just think: “I need new jeans.â€

[mikecch]

Thanks b_F. That was thoughtful.

 

I also wonder if we often do ask too much from one pair of jeans - it's likely we might never be happy no matter how 'right' it feels?

There will always be something to obsess about, new aspects to discover and new fabrics to covet.

 

Come to think of it, it would be sad to find an ultimate jean - half the fun would be over!

Edited July 13, 2016 by mikecch

[Cucoo]

I used to be a "just get another 501" guy, but the 501 fit gets updated over the years, too... I remember getting the last 501 I was really happy with in the late 90s or so.

[garden gnomes in space]

i pretty much agree with every bullet point Beautiful Freak laid out.  

[oomslokop]

i alternate between wearing what people here call straight cut jeans and slim cut jeans.

 

it depends on the overall look i want to achieve.

 

after many years of experimenting (and embarrassment) i have two looks: a sort of lazy rockabilly look (i never put pomade on my hair at least not anymore) and a sort of happy mondays it's gotta be a loose fit look.

 

i wear my slim(mer) cut jeans for the lazybilly look and my straight cuts for the happy mondays look (+ tezo or fh thc tees).

 

before i found out about this repro denim thing i was constantly on the lookout for my perfect pair of jeans and regularly disappointed.

 

sometime in 2003 when i was living in bondi beach in australia i got off the 380 bus together with this japanese girl who was très kawaii because she was wearing the most perfect pair of jeans i had ever seen.

 

i followed her for a few blocks trying to work out what serial number levi's they were because i could see they were levi's from the arcs (i didn't know that thing was called an arcuate back then).

 

could they be lvc japan?

 

or a jap pair pre-levi's lawsuit?

 

this being australia the streets were devoid of people and i could not follow the girl for too long lest she thought i was stalking her.

 

sugoi. the jawnz. kawaii. the girl.

 

her jeans were slimmish but not too tapered with enough room up top so that her arse didn't look sculpted but still sexy and on her thighs and legs the jawnz followed the contour but were not jeggings.

 

after that i spent years trying to find jawnz that fit like the kawaii girl's. my grail.

 

to no avail.

 

i scoured charity shops, vinnies, salvos, sydney's many weekend markets, bought tsubi, helmut lang, dsquared (girlfriend: "that's a bit flash"), even evisu (which i wore for a while but got annoyed with the kamome and gave it to a friend) — i didn't know what type of evisu it was of course.

 

then i took a chance on a dry bones red-d from self edge coz sydney lo reminded me of the kawaii japanese girl, and the rest is history.

Edited July 14, 2016 by oomslokop

[garden gnomes in space]

part of me wishes you just asked her.  The other part is glad you didnt because then you would not be on this lifelong unfulfilled quest for the perfect pair and thus might not have found SuFu and contributed to many a thread that I have enjoyed over the years.  

[ALB]

sugoi desu, oomslokop.

 

Very very happy that brands are doing the straight taper fit. Not too loose and not skinny. Perfect for those athletic types and all. I mean loose cuts are fine and all but I see most are rocking cuffs with it and sometimes you (or just me maybe) just want a nice clean break at the end of your jeans. The small-ish leg opening makes for a nice break (ba dum tss) where, imo, derbies and sneakers look better with.

 

But that's just me where I like to mix styles of workwear and fancy shcmancy from time to time.

[Maynard Friedman]

^ Looser, slightly tapered cuts are perfect for me too - a higher rise with plenty of room for those manly thighs and glutes and a hem that doesn't flap around. I'm talking about a 13" thigh and @8" leg opening on a size 32 waist. I didn't realise I preferred this silhouette until I bought my first pair of Ande Whalls a couple of years ago.

The cuts that I'm aware of that cater to this are Warehouse 1101/1105, FC 1101/0105, TCB 505, LVC 55, Ande Whall Buffalo. I own a subset of these and I'm sure there are others too.

I have quite a few pairs of 50s jeans which are perfect other than the leg opening, so rather than sell them and buy new pairs, I get them tapered. So far I've done this my LVC 37, Sugar Cane Okis and Momo 0901. I'm sure there'll be plenty more to follow.

[SuperJackle]

The 633s is right up there as well Maynard, if IH is your kinda thing. I almost bought a pair but was more interested in full count denim.

I actually bought a pair of high tapered Japan Blue awhile back too and it is an awesome cut as well. The hem is a bit on the smaller side though.

[FeloniousMonk]

I have quite a few pairs of 50s jeans which are perfect other than the leg opening, so rather than sell them and buy new pairs, I get them tapered. So far I've done this my LVC 37, Sugar Cane Okis and Momo 0901. I'm sure there'll be plenty more to follow.

 

That's a really good point. How have you been getting them tapered? I never wear the pair of Okis I own, and probably rarely ever will so long as they have a really large leg opening. But at the same time, I don't know if my tailor would do a good job tapering something like hefty denim.

[Maynard Friedman]

Here (London branch): http://www.atelierandrepairs.com/pages/repairs

They have a Union Special too.

My LVC were done in the Levi's flagship store at Regents St. They have a (non-Union Special chainstitch machine) and hemming us free.

Edited July 15, 2016 by Maynard Friedman

[dwilson123]

Welp looks like I am in fact moving to Orange County.  I'm chasing a dream I had since I was in middle/high school and accepted employment at Blizzard as a software developer.  Moving out in August.  I guess on the plus side I'll be close'ish to SELA but the downside is cost of living is so high I won't be able to afford to go

[Broark]

Can I have some Overwatch loot boxes?

Just kidding, congrats on the move. I've been spending way too much time with that game...

[SuperJackle]

That is awesome dwilson. Good stuff. I start a new job with Fidelity at the end of August so my denim wearings are gonna be pretty limited :/

[kiya]

Who else is following the hype-press behind Tanuki?

I don't like it.  I want transparency behind the things i spend my money on, primarily food and clothing.  As both a consumer and the owner of a retail store i want to know where my money is going and that the product is in fact what they say it is.  

In this case how could i go spend thousands of dollars on a brand for my stores if i don't know where anything is coming from or who is profiting from the brand?

Edited July 15, 2016 by kiya

[itsbenhere]

The jeans look fine, but I hate the way this guy talks about the brand, whether it's due to him or the nature of the brand itself.

 

Fuck this whole "I don't have the permission to tell you", "very SECRET denim MASTERS" etc, why do you need to make it sound like some secret hard to get thing if the product is that good? All you'd need to do is show the product.

 

the whole idea behind the brand sounds like someone here in the us was trying to come up with some gimmick to sell jeans