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Everything posted by FeloniousMonk

  1. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @JDelage Really helpful, cheers!
  2. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @JDelage Thanks so much! That photo helps a lot, it’s definitely quite light compared to the all-coyote jacket. If you don’t mind, what’s your general impression of the sweatshirt - anything that stands out or is it a fairly standard loopwheeled sweat? (Admittedly a very high “standard”). And this phrasing may sound stupid, but does the sweatshirt In person come off more as a discernible color (albeit light) or as an off-white?
  3. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    Does anyone have an SDA FoxFibre garment in coyote that’s gone through a few washes by this point? I’m thinking about the loopwheeled sweatshirt they just released, but the stock photos appear a bit light. If it were to get a little more reddish-brown like in photos of the jacket (or darker), that would be ideal, so I’m curious if people have actually seen the cotton get noticeably darker with washing.
  4. FeloniousMonk

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    @1fookntitefd The main advantage I see for getting unsanforized jeans raw rather than one wash is that the patch often does a lot better through a home soak. Many jeans makers have a wash/dry process that nearly turns their patches to jerky - my pairs from Full Count, Boncoura, and Momotaro in particular have patches that are fairly stiff and shriveled-looking even after a few rounds of leather conditioner. Other than that, maybe the denim stays a bit stiffer after a soak and line dry than from the manufacturer’s wash? But with the softening up over the initial month of wear, I doubt that would make much of a difference to the fades.
  5. FeloniousMonk

    RESOLUTE by hayashi-san!

    @Max Power damn those are beautiful! Amazing that the patch holds up so perfectly intact after what must be quite a few washes as well. Would love to get a pair faded to that very light blue for a summer jean.
  6. FeloniousMonk

    Stevenson Overall Company

    @Broark I got the dark grey thermal from SE last year, and pretty much a +1 for everything @youngofthesoonest says. Super soft and comfortable, surprisingly versatile across a range of temperatures. If I wear it on its own, it’s fine for being in the office or generally around town, but starts feeling toasty if I’m somewhere much above 70 degrees for a while. Outside, I just wear that thermal and a denim jacket and I’m good down to 50 or so. I sometimes wear a t-shirt underneath to help keep it clean, but even that minor extra layer makes the combination a bit too much for the indoors.
  7. FeloniousMonk

    Ande Whall Denim

    @Maynard Friedman Thanks, Kuroki mills would fit with the similar cast and fading of the Stevenson standard denim from there. Theirs and Ande’s brand-specific denims are among my very favorite so far - lots of little variation and interest that comes through in the fades while still feeling quite soft, regular, and light enough for hot weather. @Geeman it’s probably been about 7-8 months of heavy wear - saying “this summer” is definitely an exaggeration. I wore them every now and again since getting them in fall 2016, but never had them “in rotation”. Around April when the weather got warm, I decided this was their year and wore them A LOT (including all the washes that come with that wear in a sticky NYC summer) until they needed their first (minor) repairs this September. Just got them back from SENY this week and can’t wait to see what next summer will do to them.
  8. FeloniousMonk

    Ande Whall Denim

    Finally pulled out my standard roll Ande Whalls to start breaking in this summer. They were bought just before Andy closed up shop, with the optional shovel-head shape and partial lining on the back pockets. Really lovely lighter-weight denim, the color seemed to have a subtle greenish, greyish cast while fading that is quite unique. I wonder what mill his standard roll came from, and whose denim nowadays is probably most similar (maybe Stevenson’s?) - there’s no replacing Andy’s work, but another pair in this denim would be very welcome. Anyway, photos... Love these low-profile rivets, and the fading of his cotton-poly threads is impressively similar to 100% cotton. Patch is starting to crack a bit and get uneven coloring despite my conditioning efforts. Such a statement chunk of leather.
  9. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    Hope they work out well for you!
  10. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @altoclefchris I’ve got the G-003 from SDA, which I believe is based on the same cut, just using grey weft G3 denim rather than the indigo x indigo. On my broken-in and freshly laundered tag size 32 pair, the waist is 32” on the dot if I measure with the waist pulled taut. Two quick notes of caution: 1. Although the measurements online suggest these are a mid-rise fit, they don’t rise close to my true waist which means that 32” waist measurement feels as tight as a 30.5-31” true high rise pair. 2. Looking at the measurements on Okayama Denim and Self Edge for both models, it looks like the G-004 production run might be cut a smidge larger in sizes 31 & 32 than the G-003 run that I own.
  11. FeloniousMonk

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Oh yeah, and these were one wash to start. I almost always machine wash inside-out after learning that our spin cycle had a nasty habit of leaving crease marks (still not 100% at this, as too many of my jeans can attest), but when handwashing I tend to leave them normal-side-out.
  12. FeloniousMonk

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @Pedro thanks! They’re coming along really nicely, and I want to eventually get them to a very light fade for a comfy summer jean like some of the old pairs I’ve seen in this thread. I did size down one (30 vs my usual 31), and even had a local tailor do a bit of tapering from mid-thigh down to match my favorite OA02 jeans - both of which probably help the fading and especially the slight honeycombs coming in. They still ended up looking like a quite normal fit though. Just took a quick fit shot in NYC’s current overcast evening, and the fades definitely look less extreme in this more normal light. Since I want them to fade to an overall light color in time, they’ve been washed often. Typically handwashing every couple weeks in our tub with some normal detergent (whatever Tide was on sale) and light agitation, to preserve the patch (and between my partner and I, we usually have a few items to handwash that often anyway). Then I’ll leave them out to dry in direct sun, again to get the color lighter overall. They’ve been through a few machine washes and drying cycles too, when I’m lazy or it’s convenient. One cool detail, though it’s a bit difficult to photograph, is that the sashiko pockets have also faded quite a bit. Did just a bit of color and exposure tweaking to try and get it to show up more accurately in this shot...
  13. FeloniousMonk

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @Pedro My experience with the Okinawas has been a bit different, though these are the 40301 model (with synthetic indigo) so they’ll likely be faster fading than the natural indigo. I’m quite sure these have only about 6 months of wear (3-5 times weekly), as I only started wearing them intensively this Feb/Mar. They struck me as pretty fast faders, with the first bits of contrast showing up in the initial couple weeks and some actual color change through the thighs, rear, and knees after only 2-3 months. You can tell these photos are a bit overexposed by the patch on the back shot, but they look pretty true to the color in bright lighting.
  14. FeloniousMonk

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    @ALB Just lined up my two size 33 pairs, and they’re pretty much a perfect match from waist to inseam to hem. The OA denim does shrink a bit more than the #17 denim after a couple washes, so I would expect the saddle pants to get a tiny bit slimmer in the long run. My pair has been worn a few times, but not seen a second wash yet.
  15. FeloniousMonk

    Full Count Denim Thread

    I also had a crispy patch on my first pair of 1101s, which were one wash (and made me commit to always getting raw FCs in the future). It wasn’t shrunken, but worryingly stiff and noticeably darker than the raw patches. The patch has gotten a bit better after repeated applications of leather conditioner and some wear, but it’s still not in as good of shape as any pairs I’ve had from raw.
  16. FeloniousMonk

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    I'll also add that the OA01 fit feels about identical to the R01 fit, but with 2" larger tag size. I.e., if a 35 fits great in the OA01, you probably will do best with a 33 in the R01 fit (with the exception of the rise, which is crazy high on the Roys). I'm basing this off having Ooe's Golden Gate 01 fit jeans in size 33 and the newest R01 jeans in size 31 - their measurements through the leg are very similar, and they feel/look about the same in the hips, though the rise measurements on the Roys are about 0.5-1" higher in the front and 1.5" higher in the back. If that extra rise gives you enough extra room in the waist relative to your OA01, then you can probably keep the size 32s, but they'll be a bit tighter than your Ooes when fully shrunk.
  17. FeloniousMonk

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    Yep, I really wanted a pair of Roys for mostly sentimental/collection reasons, and this feels like a pretty perfect pair to that end: very classic styling, impeccably cut and sewn as always, and in his own personal denim. The cloth patch is a nice touch to me, since I’ve always loved his patch designs but the leather seemed to fade in only a few washes. So I picked up a pair from SENY this evening and will get around to wearing them... someday... I also wonder how much more black seed denim Roy has salted away. He’s now put out what, 4 or 5 runs of black seed jeans? It will be interesting to see what he does once his stash runs out, but I certainly hope he stays in the denim game.