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FeloniousMonk

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Everything posted by FeloniousMonk

  1. FeloniousMonk

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    I'll also add that the OA01 fit feels about identical to the R01 fit, but with 2" larger tag size. I.e., if a 35 fits great in the OA01, you probably will do best with a 33 in the R01 fit (with the exception of the rise, which is crazy high on the Roys). I'm basing this off having Ooe's Golden Gate 01 fit jeans in size 33 and the newest R01 jeans in size 31 - their measurements through the leg are very similar, and they feel/look about the same in the hips, though the rise measurements on the Roys are about 0.5-1" higher in the front and 1.5" higher in the back. If that extra rise gives you enough extra room in the waist relative to your OA01, then you can probably keep the size 32s, but they'll be a bit tighter than your Ooes when fully shrunk.
  2. FeloniousMonk

    Roy. (expurgated edition)

    Yep, I really wanted a pair of Roys for mostly sentimental/collection reasons, and this feels like a pretty perfect pair to that end: very classic styling, impeccably cut and sewn as always, and in his own personal denim. The cloth patch is a nice touch to me, since I’ve always loved his patch designs but the leather seemed to fade in only a few washes. So I picked up a pair from SENY this evening and will get around to wearing them... someday... I also wonder how much more black seed denim Roy has salted away. He’s now put out what, 4 or 5 runs of black seed jeans? It will be interesting to see what he does once his stash runs out, but I certainly hope he stays in the denim game.
  3. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    Enjoy! It’s a really great pair of jeans
  4. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    My jeans tend to end up pretty high contrast no matter what - I’m not sure why really. If anything, I’d prefer to get them a little more washed-out and light blue all over at this point, so the washing schedule will probably get more frequent.
  5. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    @1fookntitefd Probably around 10 washes, maybe a little more. I tend to wash the jeans I’m wearing heavily every one or two months. With the RJB jeans, I didn’t like washing them too much early on because the vertical falling is so extreme. Each early wash would bring out some light streaks in random parts of the otherwise dark denim, rather than emphasizing the worn-in areas. These jeans have kind of an awkward adolescence. Now that they’re somewhat faded all over, each wash just helps bring out new texture and lighter colors.
  6. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    Right around a year of wear, and they keep lightening up more and more. The indigo seems to be falling off faster in the past couple weeks, so maybe they'll be up for semi-retirement before too long. The new RJB denim really is gorgeous, I especially love how the white-blue areas look on the extra worn sections at the knees and wallet.
  7. What has been the general experience with the hemming service from Denimio? Sorry if this has been answered before - I found the question back in this thread but not any responses.
  8. FeloniousMonk

    The Strike Gold

    That’s a really nice fit, better than I think I’ve seen for the XX09 line-up from Strike Gold. Enjoy! Definitely an under-appreciated brand relative to the attention Oni or PBJ get for their crazy fabrics.
  9. FeloniousMonk

    Full Count Denim Thread

    Ugghhh... now you all are going to convince me that my emergency 1101XX purchase wasn’t sufficient, and I should have another backup pair or two... The jeans addiction has already gone too far, no matter how perfect the high rise, well-proportioned top block, and gentle taper of the 1101 fit may be! That said, thanks for the heads up on the changing fits and design. I put the 1101XX away for a rainy day, but then caved and made them my new winter jeans. The stiffness and roughness of the freshly-soaked XX fabric is really surprising after the instant comfort of their 13.7 oz denim, but it’s fun to get a bit of a break-in period. The inky darkness of the new denim is also really nice - the warp almost looks black. Can’t wait to see how they age!
  10. FeloniousMonk

    Waywt 2018 (denim version)

    Thanks, @oomslokop! It’s the type 425, the flat cuff shirt, but made from the molleton-processed denim and logwood dyed. The mashing and brushing of the molleton process make it a good windbreak, even if it was designed as a shirt
  11. FeloniousMonk

    Waywt 2018 (denim version)

    Stevenson cap and thermal Tender jacket Ooe contest jeans
  12. FeloniousMonk

    BS United Oni Denim Pics

    Hey all, my eye has been wandering again, and Oni's handmade collection is looking mighty nice. It seems like a somewhat regular special edition that they do, always with the same styling. I'm a big fan of the felled/french seams and single stitch construction - I've only seen those details on Ande Whall and Stevenson before. The back pocket stitching and curved top also have real Stevenson vibes, which I'm 100% behind. @mikecch How has your pair of the hand made Oni's come along since 2010? You seem to have the only pair I found in a quick thread search. Or does anyone else have experience with them and their construction? Also, any advice on fabrics? It appears that Denimio has some left in my size from a previous year using Oni's original 14oz denim, and there's a new version this year using Oni's refreshed version of the 17oz XX denim (dubbed NXX, apparently). I have no idea how the NXX denim has supposedly changed from the old 16.5 oz XX, and honestly it's been ages since I've felt either in person.
  13. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @i_denim: Not sure if there's been a proper review of the G-003 jeans, but @beautiful_FrEaK mentioned picking up a pair of the G-002 here. A little further down that page, I chime in on the G3 fabric used for that run of jeans. Don't really have much to add to what I wrote there - they're still sitting in my drawer waiting for the winter rotation to start soon - but I believe they G-003 jeans are in SDA's typical 107 cut which is a nice, modern tapered cut with some room in the thighs and a mid- to low-rise.
  14. FeloniousMonk

    Black jeans lovers!!!

    That does look like an amazing fabric - I'm disappointed there isn't more black/white or black/beige, black/light grey denim around. May have to give the 634 fit another try, as the measurements on ironheart.co.uk look like they could work... It's a pity Self Edge here doesn't carry this pair to test it out in person. Thank you also to @mlwdp and @chambo2008! I love Momotaro and will always be on the lookout for something from them, though lately they seem to be sewing up even their natural tapered fit with tighter thighs. Never seen HWZN before, but I like the look of that denim and the super-clean styling on the jeans.
  15. Ernest Alexander’s prices have gone up in recent years (they definitely look about $100 more than I remember paying), but I can attest to their quality and good looks. I’ve had their Hudson messenger bag as my work/laptop briefcase for about 6 years now, and it’s still going strong. My weekender bag from them has a couple extra interior/exterior pockets that are useful for small items, and still looks great with no real wear (though it hasn’t seen the same amount of use and abuse as my messenger).
  16. FeloniousMonk

    Black jeans lovers!!!

    This seemed like the thread to revive in order to ask about recommendations for black jeans. 3sixteen’s entire line-up, Iron Heart 634, and the Sugar Cane Type 3 all have thighs that are a bit too thin. My ideal black jeans would have white/natural weft (though I’m willing to consider black/black) and a fit with higher rise, wider thigh, and moderate taper. Something like the full count 1101, warehouse 800, or Ooe 02 for fit. Unfortunately, it seems like since Ande Whall left the game, all the other black jeans tend to only be made solid black and in slim cuts. Has anyone else found themselves in this same search?
  17. @BrownMetallic Yes, they do shrink to tagged (or very close). My tag size 32 pair has been worn only a couple days and currently measures 32.5” at the waist. Couldn’t tell you if the denim stretches more easily than normal, but they certainly didn’t strike me as tight / hard-to-stretch.
  18. FeloniousMonk

    Stevenson Overall Company

    Sure thing! I’ve been wearing my pair recently, so these measurements are post-wash and post-stretch (probably a month of wear since the last wash). I use a belt to try and stop the waist from stretching too much, but it’s mostly in vain with these jeans. Waist: 33” Front rise: 10.25” Back rise: 15.25” Thigh (from crotch): 12” Knee (15” down): 7.75-8” Hem: 6.5-6.75” Inseam (original): 33”
  19. FeloniousMonk

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    Count me in as a vote for the 02, please! Definitely the perfect pair of jeans.
  20. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @Hendsch: @beautiful_FrEaK sounds like he has the most experience with both the G fabric and the standard 15oz. The G fabric is a very rough, slubby, stiff, and somewhat heavier-feeling denim. It also has a gorgeous medium-grey weft that makes it appear super dark when raw and I hope will age beautifully. My impression from comments here (and brief handling in the store) is that the classic SDA fabric is much smoother and more subtle, closer to a true repro fabric. Wish I could say how the G fabric ages, but I only wore mine a few times before setting them aside to wait for colder weather (and more wear on my current rotation). They are one of the pairs I’m most excited about though.
  21. FeloniousMonk

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    @owlofminerva The saddle pants are looking great! Such cool and beautiful details on that pair, glad you’re liking them so far. Just wanted to chime in on the fades - I’m pretty sure the jeans you’ve got are a different denim than ALB and Broark’s pairs higher up on the page. Those both look like their contest pairs, which used a denim that got very “streaky” vertical fades and stayed a little darker in spots with a greyish cast as it faded. The original OA denim (as used in the saddle pants) seems to fade a bit more evenly, without the heavy vertical falling, and to more of a classic medium blue tone. Really gorgeous in its own right, but quite different in character. Also the OA denim is perhaps the most comfortable I’ve ever worn, especially with that crazy stretch you mention. Just to illustrate the contrast, here’s my two pairs of Ooe jeans at somewhat similar levels of fading, with the contest denim on the left and the OA denim used in the saddle pants on the right.
  22. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    @BrownMetallic as Dau mentioned, I think collabs may be your best bet. My pair is the FH x RJB collab carried by Self Edge that they call a slim-tapered, but the thighs are (slightly) roomier than most slim cuts and they don’t have a very heavy below-the-knee taper. I’d call it more of a slim or standard-tapered cut. Just measured, and my front rise is dead-on 10” for a tag size 31. If that sounds doable, I think this pair is based on RJB’s standard 109 cut. Rivet & Hide has a couple collab cuts that look like they’ve got slightly higher rises, including one based on the Flat Head 3002 cut.
  23. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    Wow! That’s an amazing pair, up there with your pair of 3005s and yet more proof that the Flat Head crew really know what they’re doing when it comes to denim. @STINGER93 “Silvery” is a good way of putting it - I really like the grey cast that this denim retains as it fades. thanks all! And thanks to Self Edge for the collab in such a nice fit!
  24. FeloniousMonk

    Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

    @itsbenhere Great minds think alike (or fools seldom differ). Which beaten-up RJBs are you thinking of from Self Edge? Wanted to provide an update on how the new RJB denim is fading, somewhere around 7-8 months in with roughly 6 washes. Really loving this denim's texture and color variation as well as the somewhat grey, dingy-looking fades (relative to some denims that seem to fade to baby blues and pure white). One funny thing about the fabric - it feels heavier than 14 oz. Feels noticeably heavier when I pull these on versus the OA02s that I'm rotating them with, though those are supposedly 13.5 oz. The first two pictures were a bit overexposed, the last photo more accurately represents the color.
  25. FeloniousMonk

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    Congratulations, b_F!