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FeloniousMonk

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FeloniousMonk last won the day on June 7 2018

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About FeloniousMonk

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    classic
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    addicted
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    NYC and others
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    corrigible

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  1. FeloniousMonk

    Japan Blue Momotaro

    My recollection was that the 18oz felt and faded a lot like the 20oz GTB denim that I have now. Those old jeans were nice enough that I felt the need to replace them, just in a larger size this time. Pictures of the 20oz denim fades after 6-8 months of wear are still on page 121 of this thread, or here.
  2. FeloniousMonk

    Japan Blue Momotaro

    The 18oz GTB fabric definitely takes a while to break in, and don’t expect stretch. The fades are a bit slower than usual, but the really big difference is that this fabric stays stiffer a lot long than most denims. I think my old pair eventually hit about 8-10 months of wear (spread over two fall/winters), yet still stayed stiff enough that they had virtually no drape for weeks after a wash. Would add photos for the fading, but I sold that pair a couple years back since it was getting tight and the fabric was not forgiving.
  3. I’ve got a shirt from them, and my wife has a dress and hoodie from their women’s line. I really like their fabric selections and style, though the men’s fits tend to be a bit voluminous. Our Confect clothes are about a year old now - long enough to say that they’re not bad quality (as everything is holding up extremely well), but not long enough to say that they’re notably good quality. Definitely a fan of everything so far though, and will keep checking out their seasons in the future. I’ll have to look for the denim line...
  4. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @JDelage Really helpful, cheers!
  5. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @JDelage Thanks so much! That photo helps a lot, it’s definitely quite light compared to the all-coyote jacket. If you don’t mind, what’s your general impression of the sweatshirt - anything that stands out or is it a fairly standard loopwheeled sweat? (Admittedly a very high “standard”). And this phrasing may sound stupid, but does the sweatshirt In person come off more as a discernible color (albeit light) or as an off-white?
  6. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    Does anyone have an SDA FoxFibre garment in coyote that’s gone through a few washes by this point? I’m thinking about the loopwheeled sweatshirt they just released, but the stock photos appear a bit light. If it were to get a little more reddish-brown like in photos of the jacket (or darker), that would be ideal, so I’m curious if people have actually seen the cotton get noticeably darker with washing.
  7. FeloniousMonk

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    @1fookntitefd The main advantage I see for getting unsanforized jeans raw rather than one wash is that the patch often does a lot better through a home soak. Many jeans makers have a wash/dry process that nearly turns their patches to jerky - my pairs from Full Count, Boncoura, and Momotaro in particular have patches that are fairly stiff and shriveled-looking even after a few rounds of leather conditioner. Other than that, maybe the denim stays a bit stiffer after a soak and line dry than from the manufacturer’s wash? But with the softening up over the initial month of wear, I doubt that would make much of a difference to the fades.
  8. FeloniousMonk

    RESOLUTE by hayashi-san!

    @Max Power damn those are beautiful! Amazing that the patch holds up so perfectly intact after what must be quite a few washes as well. Would love to get a pair faded to that very light blue for a summer jean.
  9. FeloniousMonk

    Stevenson Overall Company

    @Broark I got the dark grey thermal from SE last year, and pretty much a +1 for everything @youngofthesoonest says. Super soft and comfortable, surprisingly versatile across a range of temperatures. If I wear it on its own, it’s fine for being in the office or generally around town, but starts feeling toasty if I’m somewhere much above 70 degrees for a while. Outside, I just wear that thermal and a denim jacket and I’m good down to 50 or so. I sometimes wear a t-shirt underneath to help keep it clean, but even that minor extra layer makes the combination a bit too much for the indoors.
  10. FeloniousMonk

    Ande Whall Denim

    @Maynard Friedman Thanks, Kuroki mills would fit with the similar cast and fading of the Stevenson standard denim from there. Theirs and Ande’s brand-specific denims are among my very favorite so far - lots of little variation and interest that comes through in the fades while still feeling quite soft, regular, and light enough for hot weather. @Geeman it’s probably been about 7-8 months of heavy wear - saying “this summer” is definitely an exaggeration. I wore them every now and again since getting them in fall 2016, but never had them “in rotation”. Around April when the weather got warm, I decided this was their year and wore them A LOT (including all the washes that come with that wear in a sticky NYC summer) until they needed their first (minor) repairs this September. Just got them back from SENY this week and can’t wait to see what next summer will do to them.
  11. FeloniousMonk

    Ande Whall Denim

    Finally pulled out my standard roll Ande Whalls to start breaking in this summer. They were bought just before Andy closed up shop, with the optional shovel-head shape and partial lining on the back pockets. Really lovely lighter-weight denim, the color seemed to have a subtle greenish, greyish cast while fading that is quite unique. I wonder what mill his standard roll came from, and whose denim nowadays is probably most similar (maybe Stevenson’s?) - there’s no replacing Andy’s work, but another pair in this denim would be very welcome. Anyway, photos... Love these low-profile rivets, and the fading of his cotton-poly threads is impressively similar to 100% cotton. Patch is starting to crack a bit and get uneven coloring despite my conditioning efforts. Such a statement chunk of leather.
  12. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    Hope they work out well for you!
  13. FeloniousMonk

    Studio D'artisan

    @altoclefchris I’ve got the G-003 from SDA, which I believe is based on the same cut, just using grey weft G3 denim rather than the indigo x indigo. On my broken-in and freshly laundered tag size 32 pair, the waist is 32” on the dot if I measure with the waist pulled taut. Two quick notes of caution: 1. Although the measurements online suggest these are a mid-rise fit, they don’t rise close to my true waist which means that 32” waist measurement feels as tight as a 30.5-31” true high rise pair. 2. Looking at the measurements on Okayama Denim and Self Edge for both models, it looks like the G-004 production run might be cut a smidge larger in sizes 31 & 32 than the G-003 run that I own.
  14. FeloniousMonk

    Sugar Cane Denim

    Oh yeah, and these were one wash to start. I almost always machine wash inside-out after learning that our spin cycle had a nasty habit of leaving crease marks (still not 100% at this, as too many of my jeans can attest), but when handwashing I tend to leave them normal-side-out.
  15. FeloniousMonk

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @Pedro thanks! They’re coming along really nicely, and I want to eventually get them to a very light fade for a comfy summer jean like some of the old pairs I’ve seen in this thread. I did size down one (30 vs my usual 31), and even had a local tailor do a bit of tapering from mid-thigh down to match my favorite OA02 jeans - both of which probably help the fading and especially the slight honeycombs coming in. They still ended up looking like a quite normal fit though. Just took a quick fit shot in NYC’s current overcast evening, and the fades definitely look less extreme in this more normal light. Since I want them to fade to an overall light color in time, they’ve been washed often. Typically handwashing every couple weeks in our tub with some normal detergent (whatever Tide was on sale) and light agitation, to preserve the patch (and between my partner and I, we usually have a few items to handwash that often anyway). Then I’ll leave them out to dry in direct sun, again to get the color lighter overall. They’ve been through a few machine washes and drying cycles too, when I’m lazy or it’s convenient. One cool detail, though it’s a bit difficult to photograph, is that the sashiko pockets have also faded quite a bit. Did just a bit of color and exposure tweaking to try and get it to show up more accurately in this shot...
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