TCB

[willi]

Here is TCB's latest lined jacket, pictured with 30s jean for contrast. They've suggested this could be their last lined jacket, at least on an annual cycle, which would be a relief for my wallet as I've bought each of the last 3 models. Overall very happy with this jacket putting it on the the first time. It is especially pliant and soft, including the lining which makes it comfortable to wear with just a t-shirt. I'm not sure if they will put more of these up for sale once they're done with size exchanges on the pre-order but they often do. I'm looking forward to what they produce next now that they've closed a few chapters of their design philosophy this year.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

^ on that same note I keep wondering which version will go black this year. 

[willi]

I wouldn't be shocked if they don't do one this year.

[Geeman]

So the 50s denim continues to shrink after washing?? Everyone else get the same?

Mine have lost about an inch in length after 2 washes now so wearing without a cuff. 

They actually look good with no cuff and one break at the the shoe so no loss. Might get a second pair and leave an inch extra for future shrinkage so I can keep the cuff on a pair. The 50s denim ages and wrinkles so nicely 

[NilsLW]

@Geeman Both my 40s and 505s has about an inch of shrinkage after several washes.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

I personally never had a pair of jeans that didn’t shrink after every wash. They usually stretch back, length as well (within reason of course). Regardless of being pre washed or not. 

Edited November 6, 2023 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[rbeck]

I don't remember noticing my 50s continuing to shrink with washing. But they definitely plateau because 30-some washes in the only shrinking area anymore is the waist which stretches beck out. 

[bloom]

On 9/16/2023 at 11:20 AM, Talan said:

My orSlow fatigue pants (wide) are in constant use, I think I wear them more often than any other pants... 

Hei Talan, just checking in to let you know I followed your advice, for fatigues (orSlow) and cardigan (Dehen) both. Find I’m wearing both a whole lot, both quickly getting better with use. So: thank you.

I have more than enough jeans that I need to wear in properly at the moment, or I might have taken your advice and gotten a pair of FC 0105 as well.

[Talan]

16 hours ago, bloom said:

Hei Talan, just checking in to let you know I followed your advice, for fatigues (orSlow) and cardigan (Dehen) both. Find I’m wearing both a whole lot, both quickly getting better with use. So: thank you.

I have more than enough jeans that I need to wear in properly at the moment, or I might have taken your advice and gotten a pair of FC 0105 as well.

Which Dehen Cardigan color you get? My is Loden. 

And yes, go for FC 0105.

[bloom]

7 minutes ago, Talan said:

Which Dehen Cardigan color you get? My is Loden. 

And yes, go for FC 0105.

Nice, congrats. The loden looks lovely, and really caught my eye when browsing Dehen’s site. Would have been my first choice, if it had been available from any of the places where it’s convenient for me to order from. But it wasn’t, so I went with the charcoal one. Upside is it pairs easily with green trousers of all shades, as well as jeans or khakis…anything except grey flannels, really. Also contrasts the horn buttons really well. Personally I think the loden  has the advantage though, especially with jeans or pale greens, like faded fatigues or sage chinos. Where did you get yours?

[Talan]

^ Rivet and Hide

[reallypeacedoff]

I went to Tools Infinity when I was in the vicinity. They had the Slim 50's T but their only fitting room was occupied for seemingly 20 minutes and the sales dude there didn't stop talking the entire time.  The details were awesome, really nice jeans.

[willi]

TCB teasing a Storm Rider repro is a pretty fucked up thing to do to me with all of the lined jackets I've already bought from them.

[willi]

Here's my lined type 1 from a few years ago. It's very supple after a few years of wear, like a blanket. It has a gentle fade that only pops in sunlight, it's not well described by the image compression here. Never washed. 

edit: I'll mention. After my dog, this might be my favorite thing that I own.

 

The sizing on the Storm Rider looks a little unusual. I laid this one to measure and sanity check myself. This size 46 measures the same as a 42 on the Storm Rider size chart.

Edited December 3, 2023 by willi

[NilsLW]

Beautiful jacket!

[julian-wolf]

^^ That’s a funny note about sizing. I’m generally a 42 or 44 in other brands’ jackets (never had any from TCB), and based on the size chart I was looking at a 46 in the storm rider…

[willi]

I'm going to gamble a little and size down a bit from my usual TCB measurements. I think a Storm Rider should fit like Ralph's. Although I think Ralph wears a 60s era jacket that probably has a less bulky lining than this one will, and the TCB will have a bit of added dress length.

Edited December 4, 2023 by willi

[MJF9]

You're brave dicing with TCB measurements... good luck...

The length at 62cm for 46/48 size does look ok though

Clearly different views on Storm Rider fit, all cool whatever one fancies

I had a Lee MiJ one once, slim fitting and I ultimately decided too slim as it was raw and reasonably stiff - the size never felt right

Ralph's is nicely worn in so drapes well, unlike a new one, tho imo too slim

I'm not getting one - but, if I did I'd go large... I think voluminous looks good... a quick squiz found these two ladies rocking theirs well

[yung_flynn]

It's a bit of a bummer that the body and sleeves on the storm rider aren't a couple inches longer, especially considering that their other jackets and shirts are some of the few that I feel would be reliably long enough for my spindly frame. It would barely hit my waistband and my wrist bone.

The measurements for the matching jeans look on point though - almost identical to my ideal measurements. They're pretty tempting, especially considering that they are Leepros and have enough a nicely long inseam.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I don't own a lot from TCB but their sizing through a catalogue in general has struck me as quite mysterious - and it's the main reason I haven't bought much - I would only ever go stuff I feel comfortable oversizing (my only purchase from them was a pair of 20's and black 30's - both oversized on purpose, both came in just a touch smaller than anticipated - so it all worked out).  

It's almost as if they base their sizing off the garment they are reproducing and start from square one with every piece, rather than try to reproduce similar fits they've made prior. 

[willi]

My experience with TCB's sizing is that there's a lot of variation between pieces, but the charts are accurate. For jackets at least; their "waist flat" vs "waist around" measurements are still a mystery to me. I generally agree that going small is risky though.

[LazyS]

I would have loved to watch threads for a lee and wrangler tcb comp

[JDelage]

For those interested, I asked for the knee measurements of the Cats Drive jeans, size 34, and it's 23cm, so 9 inches. It's too narrow for my tastes unfortunately.

[julian-wolf]

Yeah, the measurements on the site seemed promising, but I emailed Ryo to check and he replied that the new Lee jeans are some of the slimmest they've done (at least through the hips and thighs), even more so than the S40s. Supposedly the aim is, in part, to fill the niche of a slim–tapered cut, which wasn't really present in their lineup previously. Oh well.

[willi]

 

more storm rider inspo.

[Geeman]

Their newer version of the Slim 50s is a great cut. If  the lee repro is near them will be great for me

[yung_flynn]

The Cat's Drive are interesting in the sense that the thigh, knee, and leg opening don't seem to quite scale proportionally with the waist. At my size (31 or 32), they seem reasonably like a slim straight and actually a bit wider than a modern 501 in a comparable size. They're wider than WH 900xx through the leg too. The TCBs seem like they size smaller through the legs at larger waist sizes though. I still wish that the knee and l.o. were a touch bigger, but I might still consider rolling the dice on them. The front rise is still very generous at my size (bigger even than WH 1001xx), which solves my biggest issue with many slim straights (proportionally ass > thighs > waist)

[blooming]

11 hours ago, Geeman said:

Their newer version of the Slim 50s is a great cut. If  the lee repro is near them will be great for me

The newer slim 50s are in my main rotation, truly a great cut. They are roomier in the top block than most cuts labeled “relaxed taper”, though, so the name isn’t entirely accurate lol

[yung_flynn]

Out of curiosity, is the relatively slim fit of the Cat's Drive jeans true to the fit of Lee 101B's of the era (late 40s)? My only point of reference is my pair of loosely-adapted Leepros (pastiche of 30s-50s details I think) from RRL, and those are also very slim with a generous rise - slimmer even than the TCBs

[julian-wolf]

On 12/10/2023 at 12:30 PM, blooming said:

The newer slim 50s are in my main rotation, truly a great cut. They are roomier in the top block than most cuts labeled “relaxed taper”, though, so the name isn’t entirely accurate lol

Most cuts labeled “relaxed tapered” seem to really be more in the slim–tapered to narrow–tapered range, these days, so maybe TCB isn’t far off after all…

Edited December 11, 2023 by julian-wolf