SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Mr-Bielby]

I could do with an excuse to wear my porky's

Edited August 28, 2015 by Mr-Bielby

[MileHighEvertonian]

Here's a question I've had for a while that some veterans might be able to address: what are the contributing factors leading to better/more pronounced train tracks? Along with puckering on the yoke, tracks are one of the aesthetic elements of vintage fades I really admire. Despite being a pretty regular washer (usually once a month), I never seem to get them even on pairs worn for 1.5-2 years. Full disclosure, I only have sanforized denim right now and I'm starting to think that could be the issue. 

[itsbenhere]

Pretty sure sanforization is definitely the issue!

The way I see it the stitching and denim is perfectly in sink when the denim hasn't been washed. Once you wash it, the denim contracts but the stitching stays the same... Then you see the denim has little bumps near stitching since it's not taut anymore, and you see the raised parts get more wear aka puckering.

With sanforized denim, it doesn't shrink, so the denim and stitching are always perfectly sized for each other, so no extra wear on some parts and no puckering

I think!

[volvo240thebest]

get an unsaforized pair with cotton stitching and enjoy the technicolor evo haha!!!

[Maynard Friedman]

I'm not sure sanforization = no traintracks. Have a look at some of these pictures of faded Ande Whalls, particularly those using the sanforized 13.5oz mainline denim. Choo choo!

http://andewhall.bigcartel.com/hall-of-fades

[Cucoo]

Yeah I don't think unsanforized is "the answer" here either. I have a sanforized pair of Unbrandeds that is getting first signs of train tracks. 

 

I think it's got to do with how the selvedge line is folded inside the pant legs. Maybe if it's not "folded down hard enough" there's just not enough pressure to make those outer lines show up as lines on the outside?

[volvo240thebest]

it's been a good couple years since my last pair of sanforized jeans. you may be right about train tracks being related more to how the selvedge Lin is folded, but the amount of details in fades you get from an unsaforized pair with cotton stitching doesn't quite compare IMO.. well worth to experience it!

Edited September 1, 2015 by volvo240thebest

[MileHighEvertonian]

Thanks for the conversation here, fellas.

 

Volvo, I really appreciate that you're using my question to craft a solid argument for adding a new pair to the collection. I've been planning a Christmas-time purchase of some unwashed SC 1947s from History Preservation. Maybe sooner is better, and I can use you as a reference in case the wife asks why I want another pair right now. 

[Sugar Mountain]

Those 47s would be an excellent choice, especially if you buy them raw. My pair are one-wash but have some nice roping and train-tracks after four months of wear. I think they're probably my favourite pair of jeans.

[dwilson123]

Does anyone have experience with Houston garments?  Klax-On put a whole slew up and they're dirt cheap.  They look very similar to my Five Brothers flannels in terms of chunky aesthetic.  But I'm not sure on quality.  I also assume since they're only $45 bucks they're made in China as well.

 

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/klax-on/item/40120/

[Geeman]

Does anyone have experience with Houston garments?  Klax-On put a whole slew up and they're dirt cheap.  They look very similar to my Five Brothers flannels in terms of chunky aesthetic.  But I'm not sure on quality.  I also assume since they're only $45 bucks they're made in China as well.

 

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/klax-on/item/40120/

Look very much like 5 brothers, like the look of them. Let us know how they are if you cop one, tempted myself at this price

[dondurian]

Hi guys,

Any recommendations where to go to buy denim on Osaka? I know there was a thread about it but for some reason I can't find it plus I'm in a bit of a hurry. Any recommendations would be great.

Thanks.

[Mr-Bielby]

Namba parks for fullcount and warehouse.

Hep 5 for denime.

Walk around American Mura for some vintage. Studio D'Artisan is near there too.

[Geeman]

Any suggestions for decent blogs/sites, bored of my usual daily reading? Denim,travel, menswear related or anything worth a read now and then?

[Iron Horse]

Does anyone have experience with Houston garments?  Klax-On put a whole slew up and they're dirt cheap.  They look very similar to my Five Brothers flannels in terms of chunky aesthetic.  But I'm not sure on quality.  I also assume since they're only $45 bucks they're made in China as well.

 

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/klax-on/item/40120/

 

I haven't picked up any Houston pieces yet, but I do plan to get a wabash shirt from them; anyway, a lot of their shirts have a 'Made in Japan' label inside. Who knows if that's like the New Balance thing (only the tag was made there).

[Iron Horse]

Double cheeseburger post 

Edited September 5, 2015 by Iron Horse

[Iron Horse]

Triple post 

Edited September 5, 2015 by Iron Horse

[chicote]

Any recommendations for a Japan-made wool jacket?

[Frost]

Depends on what you're looking for.

 

William Gibson x Buzz Rickson Deck Coat

Buzz Rickson Navy Pea Coat

Studio D'Artisan Pea Coat

Flat Head Gassers Pharao Jacket

Edited September 6, 2015 by Frost

[chicote]

Something good for a fall/winter with lots of rain and temperatures that hover around freezing. A waxed or oiled cotton jacket with some weight to it would work great too. I've been looking also at Engineered Garments, Filson, that sort of thing in between frenetic checking of japanese brands. Thanks for the links!

 

edit: Maybe a blanket-lined jacket too, never thought much about those...

Edited September 6, 2015 by chicote

[Frost]

^Here are a couple of non-Japanese brands you can check out for waxed/warm/water-resistant jackets: Baracuta, Canada Goose (check their official website, they include temperatures there (some of their jackets are designed for incredibly cold environments)), Arc'Teryx, Barbour, Monitaly Dehen1920, Nigel Cabourn. Really depends on the aesthetic you're going for.

 

Japanese Stuff: Rocky Mountain Featherbed, White Mountaineering. Many of the brands discussed on this board do some kind of warm outerwear, you just need to search a bit around, sometimes. I own a Momotaro Parka for example. Made out of cotton, fairly warm and space to layer more things underneath. It's not waxed though, although you can do that to many jackets yourself. Other products include for example Otter Wax.

Edited September 6, 2015 by Frost

[dwilson123]

I have this IH wool workshirt.  Thing is thick and thing is hot.  Not sure the exact look you're going for, though.

 

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/extinct/ihw-04.html

 

-edit-

 

Also be careful with some of those pea coats.  I *think* the SDA coat is not 100% wool.

Edited September 6, 2015 by dwilson123

[chicote]

Thank you both!! I totally forgot about White and Rocky Mountain Featherbed, will definitely look into one or the other. Appreciate the help!

Edited September 7, 2015 by chicote

[Flash]

Who has the licence for Rocky Mountain Featherbed ? Was thinking about one myself for winter

[Iron Horse]

Who has the licence for Rocky Mountain Featherbed ? Was thinking about one myself for winter

 

35Summers, a Japanese company:

 

http://www.35summers.com/#brand

[Flash]

Thanks mate

[dggsf]

Hello,

 

I have a jeans which I really like, but which is very worn out already. Suppose that I still want to keep it in a wearable condition as long as possible. Now of course there are webpages with, for example, washing advice, but they are generally also quite much concerned with preserving the colour / fades. But what if I don't care about that? What is then the best way to take care of jeans?

 

I hope that one of you denim fans can give some advice about this - thanks in advance!

[Geeman]

Can you post pics? You need to wash regularly but gently to look after them. There are a few places to send jeans for repairs that will lengthen their life and blend in well enough not to be noticeably

[dggsf]

Thank you for the advice!

 

Sure I can post some pics - as you can see the invisible repair thing is not so important at this point:

 

 

 

Maybe you wonder why I don't just throw them away; they're not even raw denim. Well, about half a year ago I bought a sewing machine to make my curtains the right size, and then I thought I might as well buy some completely f***ed up jeans in an online auction to practice a little bit with how to do repairs. The seller ironically described them as "hand crafted designer piece" though, and to my big surprise friends of mine actually make compliments, apparently thinking it is indeed an intended destroyed look! So I've kept wearing them, but I need to be careful that they don't fall further apart too quickly.

Edited September 16, 2015 by dggsf

[psykx]

Those look crazy, is all that damage real? 

 

I have a pair of samurai s0003jp that are way to long in the leg for me. I've given them two soaks in the bath as hot as the tap can run, first 1 hour and the second around four hours. I'm going to take them to a tailor but I want to know how much longer I should keep them to account for future shrinkage. 

 

I'd usually have the backs of the jeans sit on the floor when not wearing shoes after them hem. Is that going to be long enough?