TCB

[erk]

Both of my 50s - contest and regular - shrank below tag size. My 34s were 34 raw and my 32 was a touch over 32. They’re very stretchy. My 32s shrink down to 30 and stretch out to 32 in minutes. 

[Outdoorsman]

Very tempted by the 50s right now. I'm a 32-33 in most jeans but a little concerned about TCB sizing. I bought a 60s in size 32 once but it felt two sizes too small. And I didn't like the super low rise. Should I get a size 32 in the 50s jean? Measurements on paper look good

[Maynard Friedman]

@Outdoorsman, I have a pair of raw BNWT 50s for sale in size 32 that measure 34 waist if you're interested.

Edited November 13, 2017 by Maynard Friedman

[Outdoorsman]

6 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

@Outdoorsman, I have a pair of raw BNWT 50s for sale in size 32 that measure 34 waist if you're interested.

@Maynard Friedman I'll measure a bunch of my jeans in the evening and do a little bit more research before I make a definitive decision but I'll keep your pair in mind.

[Niro]

42 minutes ago, Outdoorsman said:

Very tempted by the 50s right now. I'm a 32-33 in most jeans but a little concerned about TCB sizing. I bought a 60s in size 32 once but it felt two sizes too small. And I didn't like the super low rise. Should I get a size 32 in the 50s jean? Measurements on paper look good

what is low rise to you?

Just curious as 60s are classed as mid rise. My tag size 32 had about 10 and half inch front rise if i remember correctly

Edited November 13, 2017 by Niro

[beautiful_FrEaK]

To me the back rise was the problem of the 60s model. 

[erk]

I’d say the 60s are low rise. I think mine was 10 or 10.5 on a 32. If there is something lower than that meant for men...it’d be a gruesome sight  

 

And the 32 60s felt much smaller than the 32 50s at the waist. I’m thinking this is cause they hit lower on the hips where it’s much wider. The 50s hit above the hip bones closer to the natural waist. 

Also keep in mind Maynard measures his jeans while pulling on the waistband. So this might account for the difference in measure. I think I’m remembering this right. 

Edited November 13, 2017 by erk

[Maynard Friedman]

That's waistband laid flat and pulled taut aka the BiG method!

[erk]

Never mind. Maybe there is some sample variance. 

[Outdoorsman]

On 13.11.2017 at 6:04 PM, erk said:

And the 32 60s felt much smaller than the 32 50s at the waist. I’m thinking this is cause they hit lower on the hips where it’s much wider. The 50s hit above the hip bones closer to the natural waist.

Yup, that's it. I went by my natural waist size alone and ordered size 32. At that time I was pretty new to ordering jeans online and didn't factor in how the rise of a jean influences waist sizing. If I sized correctly (i.e. sized up to 34) I would have been fine and the jeans would be a classic mid-rise.

[unionmade]

love my 20´s, big and fun. so hairy, feeling like m.j. fox in teen wolf.

Spoiler

Spoiler

 

 

 

[Coolguyzack]

Just washed and dried my new TCB 60s!

 

 

[Spiraltoy]

^That’s how I wish mine fit. I’ve got about 3” of extra fabric at the thighs.

[Hendsch]

I think the 60's fit the tall and lanky the best. Great fit Coolguyzack!

[nycsurfer530]

https://www.ropedye.com/2017/09/exclusive-interview-hajime-inoue-tcb-jeans/

short little interview with the master himself 

[Spiraltoy]

4 hours ago, Hendsch said:

I think the 60's fit the tall and lanky the best. Great fit Coolguyzack!

Yeah I’m short and thin. At least I’m going to provide something outside the norm in the dwc with my fit.

[erk]

tcb 50s with fresh crispy pointer coat 

edit; dont know what happened with the quality. fixed

Edited November 22, 2017 by erk

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Great fit on both items! And damn, I think it' the first time in all those years that I actually see your face

[erk]

2 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Great fit on both items! And damn, I think it' the first time in all those years that I actually see your face

thanks BF. I let my face show every now and again. feels a little weird still. 

[mandel9000]

On 21.11.2017 at 6:24 PM, nycsurfer530 said:

short little interview with the master himself 

Aaaaawww!

Quote

Do you collect anything (other than denim)?

I collect old dolls and advertisements related to cats

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

nice outfit erk!

love the pointer and the boots

& of course <3 the 50s

 

[volvo240thebest]

Great fit on everything from top to bottom @erk

[JohnM]

Just received a pair of 50s jeans from Inoue (thanks volvo240thebest for your guidance).  They look good despite a little ripple around the left pocket.  I'm hoping/wondering if this will just blend in and fade from view after a soak and wash.  Here are the raw (34) measurements:

Waist:  35.5"

FR:  12.5"

BR:  16.75"

Thigh:  14"

Knee:  10.5"

LO:  9.875"

 

 

[oomslokop]

in that classic so i'm having a pair of jeans made thread kuniyoshi of double volante explained that those ripples were found on vintage jeans and are strictly speaking a sewing flaw but that japanese repro denim makers start copying them as well to be faithful and now are one of the signs of artisanal beauty one should look for in a pair of jeans  

[JohnM]

30 minutes ago, oomslokop said:

in that classic so i'm having a pair of jeans made thread kuniyoshi of double volante explained that those ripples were found on vintage jeans and are strictly speaking a sewing flaw but that japanese repro denim makers start copying them as well to be faithful and now are one of the signs of artisanal beauty one should look for in a pair of jeans  

Interesting oomslokop.  I did see this on page 2 of your link, so I'm going with the theory that the TCB puckering was intentional ;-)

"... another detail he showed me was puckering on the pocket stitching. again, puckering is actually considered bad sewing. however, the japanese noticed puckering on some of the vintage jeans and liked it. so, kuniyoshi-san likes to add a little puckering to the pocket stitching."

 

[garden gnomes in space]

On 11/21/2017 at 9:24 AM, nycsurfer530 said:

https://www.ropedye.com/2017/09/exclusive-interview-hajime-inoue-tcb-jeans/

short little interview with the master himself 

This made me LOL

Do you collect anything (other than denim)?

I collect old dolls and advertisements related to cats

[Foxy2]

11 hours ago, JohnM said:

Just received a pair of 50s jeans from Inoue (thanks volvo240thebest for your guidance).  They look good despite a little ripple around the left pocket.  I'm hoping/wondering if this will just blend in and fade from view after a soak and wash.

 

10 hours ago, oomslokop said:

in that classic so i'm having a pair of jeans made thread kuniyoshi of double volante explained that those ripples were found on vintage jeans and are strictly speaking a sewing flaw but that japanese repro denim makers start copying them as well to be faithful and now are one of the signs of artisanal beauty one should look for in a pair of jeans  

 

9 hours ago, JohnM said:

Interesting oomslokop.  I did see this on page 2 of your link, so I'm going with the theory that the TCB puckering was intentional ;-)

"... another detail he showed me was puckering on the pocket stitching. again, puckering is actually considered bad sewing. however, the japanese noticed puckering on some of the vintage jeans and liked it. so, kuniyoshi-san likes to add a little puckering to the pocket stitching."

this falls into the same category as the usage of single needle vs double needle machines, wonky back pocket stitching, selvedge peaking at the coin pocket or raise belt loops - the finer points of jeans making voodoo. I remember hearing that certain manufacturers believe it to be more period accurate to not pre-press the patched back pockets before assembly...

as for the front pocket it is a certainty that it will be pulled out and give in significantly during it's lifespan - manufacturers will try accommodate for this by securing the seams (stitch types, stitch density, thread types, additional tapes, lining, pocketing material and specific handling of the seam allowance) and/or with additional width in the pattern that gets gathered in the sewing process.
what you see is the (probably intentional) additional fullness brought back together by the pocket entry stitching or the seam allowance handling when turning over the seam.

[JohnM]

^ Foxy2, 

Appreciate the detailed response but not sure I understand the following:

"as for the front pocket it is a certainty that it will be pulled out and give in significantly during it's lifespan - manufacturers will try accommodate for this by securing the seams (stitch types, stitch density, thread types, additional tapes, lining, pocketing material and specific handling of the seam allowance) and/or with additional width in the pattern that gets gathered in the sewing process.
what you see is the (probably intentional) additional fullness brought back together by the pocket entry stitching or the seam allowance handling when turning over the seam."

Are you saying that pocket seams and material are typically stressed from wear and a little extra material (e.g., the ripples on the left pocket) reduces that stress, adding a little extra material where needed?

 

 

 

 

[Foxy2]

In classic menswear tailors would do that - more length in the upper pocket entry and then gather it in the seam and when attaching the lower pocket panel and pocket bag. For sure they would steam/press it better so there would be no noticeable puckering. That way you get some volume in there that may be needed later without stressing the fabric and seam too much. Also, you get more 3 dimensional shape into flat 2 dimensional (paper) patterns and fabric panels. They would also stretch or compress certain parts of the leg panels under steam in order to compensate for the shape of the legs (knee pit, calf).

some of this stuff is high end tailoring and applicable to wool fabrics, but some tweaks are useful in small lot artisanal jeanswear and some manufacturers make use of these.

the other important aspect with front pocket entries for jeans is the curve has a strong slant - after attaching the pocket bag and turning it over you have to deal with the excess seam allowance in most cases. Cutting it back or notching it can have an impact on the overal strength/durability of the pocket entry - most manufacturers will try to leave as much seam allowance as possible (helps with the top stitching as well) and maybe only trim down one seam allowance layer of the two fabric layers. In this case you may have some excess fabric volume right after the pocket entry top stitching which could steamed/pressed away. Many of these “corrections” will come back later as the fabric is not permanently set.

i would think that the puckering will go away, especially if the denim is raw and un-soaked/un-washed. depending on the sizing of your jeans the pocket entry will stretch during use.

Edited November 25, 2017 by Foxy2

[Maynard Friedman]

It's always great when foxy shares his tailoring knowledge with us. Thank you sir