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Tender Co. Denim


braille_teeth

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  • 2 weeks later...

conditioning a pair of sidings boots pairs. On the right, about 3.5 years worn occasionally. On the left not even a year, worn occasionally. Right is a size larger, ultimately a little too big unless I wear super thick socks, but at this point quite comfortable. A little bummed the tab on the left boot ripped off recently, hoping to avoid that with the black boots. I love how the leather is coming along and curious how the black pair looks in a few years. 

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Comparison for fun. 4 yr old woad dyed 129s, fresh indigo (garment dyed) Achilles heel 132’s. I went big and got a size up for some true anti fit jeans. First time I’ve done that in years, so not expecting much in defined fades on these, not that garment dyed pieces lend themselves to that anyways. My hands turned blue just putting them in the pockets so they’re doing another hot hot soak to get rid of some dye and maybe get some shrink out. 

Curiously this new denim feels a bit different than the Woad pair - it feels a little softer, a little lighter, a little bit of a looser weave - something like that. Can’t quite put my finger on it. Also, some little details seem to have changed a touch over the years. Belt loops and snobs thumb pocket seem patterned slightly differently, or else the variations in batches might be more than just the denim. Not a criticism, just an observation. 

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On 1/4/2024 at 12:31 AM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Curiously this new denim feels a bit different than the Woad pair - it feels a little softer, a little lighter, a little bit of a looser weave - something like that. Can’t quite put my finger on it. Also, some little details seem to have changed a touch over the years. Belt loops and snobs thumb pocket seem patterned slightly differently, or else the variations in batches might be more than just the denim.

lovely comparison photo! your 132s are certainly going to fit quite differently from the 129s. The denim is exactly the same spec and mill, although it will be from different batches. I expect the difference is in the washing that's gone into your 129s- both woad and Achilles' Heel are dyed relatively cool and gently rinsed, so they shrink a bit further with subsequent washing. When garments shrink the yarn gets denser as the fibres contract, and the weight/area increases which also makes the fabric feel harder. My guess is that the new jeans feel how the old jeans did, and they will feel how the old jeans do now after a few years. Alternatively there certainly could be some variation in the fabric.

Details have evolved somewhat over the years- I note that your 129 side belt loops are the 'transition' length (!). Originally the side belt loops were extended and sewn through the yoke seam, however this caused a lot of broken needles, going though a lined belt loop and 4 thicknesses of denim in the seam, which also risked damaging the seam itself. For a while the side belt loops were longer than the front and back ones, sewn though a single thickness of denim, but more recently the belt loops have been matching lengths, and set closer to the side seam, to give more support to a belt at the sides, where it's most needed. Snob's thumb pockets haven't intentionally changed, although the side pocket mouth will be a bit bigger in your upsized 132s than in your 129s, which will make the thumb pocket look proportionally smaller. Again, though, it is possible that there's a bit of natural variation over the years between the two versions. 

 

Looking forward to see how the fit and dye works out for you on your 132s- Please do let us know.

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3 minutes ago, rodeo bill said:

lovely comparison photo! your 132s are certainly going to fit quite differently from the 129s. The denim is exactly the same spec and mill, although it will be from different batches. I expect the difference is in the washing that's gone into your 129s- both woad and Achilles' Heel are dyed relatively cool and gently rinsed, so they shrink a bit further with subsequent washing. When garments shrink the yarn gets denser as the fibres contract, and the weight/area increases which also makes the fabric feel harder. My guess is that the new jeans feel how the old jeans did, and they will feel how the old jeans do now after a few years. Alternatively there certainly could be some variation in the fabric.

Details have evolved somewhat over the years- I note that your 129 side belt loops are the 'transition' length (!). Originally the side belt loops were extended and sewn through the yoke seam, however this caused a lot of broken needles, going though a lined belt loop and 4 thicknesses of denim in the seam, which also risked damaging the seam itself. For a while the side belt loops were longer than the front and back ones, sewn though a single thickness of denim, but more recently the belt loops have been matching lengths, and set closer to the side seam, to give more support to a belt at the sides, where it's most needed. Snob's thumb pockets haven't intentionally changed, although the side pocket mouth will be a bit bigger in your upsized 132s than in your 129s, which will make the thumb pocket look proportionally smaller. Again, though, it is possible that there's a bit of natural variation over the years between the two versions. 

 

Looking forward to see how the fit and dye works out for you on your 132s- Please do let us know.

Just posted on Waywt and since it's all Tender again why not here. 

Yep, a markedly different fit was what I was after, and I've got it here. The 129's are still getting worn so I didn't want a replacement, per se, and I've learned I don't love hems that are characteristic of a lot of wider jeans so the full cut with the somewhat normal hem made sense for me here, sized up because it's fun to have a truly baggy pair in the mix and I haven't for too long. I did end up giving them a hot wash and double rinse because they were crocking like crazy, and I wanted to see if I could get any last bit of shrink out. I didn't do measurements but they did tighten up a bit, including the denim itself which now feels a touch closer to the Woad denim. Thanks for the note about the belt loops, interesting tidbit there. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

'Expert' is a bit of a stretch.. it does look nice, i have a soft spot for those type of knives.. we all had one back in those halcyon days of the 1980s when every kid was armed to the teeth with weapons but nobody ever got stabbed...

Relatives would leave the forces with their army/navy issue knifes and they'd stick it in their tool box in the garage only to be found blunt and rusty years later by their kids/grandkids/nephews.. you'd say "dad can i have this knife" of course you can son.. "do you want to offer me any advice on how i can use it safely" of course not.. it's the 1980s!

A friend from Dorset sent me this photo a few years ago asking me what i knew of the makers marks and i went down yet another internet-wormhole.. the one on the right is WW2 issue, the one on the left was issued to him when he joined the navy in 1973, he said they were nicknamed the 'Pussers Dirk'

 

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Taylor's was made at .Eyewhitness Works (hence the eyeball). the derelict building was repurposed for a Phlegm ehxibition i went to a few years ago.. Sadly it's now being converted into yet more souless appartments we don't need.

The Rogers is Joseph Rogers which i think are still made by either Eggington or J Adams (where i bought my scissors) just copies made under license but they still make/sell knifes in Sheffield which is something... alas, they're under increasing pressure to sell/move by Sheffield council to make way for (you guessed it) more flats.. student accom in this instance.

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Got this Tender number off the Lost and Found sale. Very easy relaxed fit and I love how it looks with jeans. Chuffed to bits. Colour is hard to photograph with phone cam but the first pic is more true then the others, they are a bit rich in colour. 

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@Toegun I made the same purchase—a really great deal. The texture of the barley twist fabric is really extraordinary, as comes across nicely in your photos, and the dyes have taken so well to it. In addition to the tan wattle Millwheel, I also picked up an Achilles Heel indigo Didcot shirt in the winter sales. I just can't get enough of the barley twist!

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5 needed the extra shoulder space for the sleeves. I love it. 

17 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@Toegun nice... what size did you pick up

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  • 2 weeks later...

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