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rodeo bill

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Everything posted by rodeo bill

  1. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks all! Yes indeed Broark, the other new jackets are very nice too, and a little dressier. Fingers crossed they'll be in for the end of the month, too- I'll keep you posted.
  2. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    thank you! and yes I really like rugby shirts. these are cut with straight sleeves and no cuff, so they have a definite sporty feel to them. 900 jackets will be in the standard 16oz selvage denim, the same as the first run, dyed with woad, and the vest is the removable liner for the jacket! as with the original model, but this has been upgraded a bit- it's really special. More info when garments are in stock!
  3. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thank you! I'm delighted you like the look of the new things. The photos were taken on medium format film with vaseline around the edges of a skylight filter over the lens- I really like the flare and smudginess this gives the pictures. The shirts are made from Welsh flannels, cut very large and then hot washed, so that they shrink to size (still quite generous) and get a great thickness and softness, while still wearing surprisingly light. There are two styles- a WS420 Tail shirt, and a WS412 Pullover Shirt, with a half-length placket. The buttons are white melamine, and the seams are overlocked and topstitched in white thread, which gives a really nice utilitarian contrast to the fabrics, I think. There's a very nice Weaver's Stock lined jacket coming in the next couple of weeks, more of this once I have it. The jackets (and jeans) in these photos are a mix of my own jeans from the first season, 10 years ago(!) and the new one. The 900 Jacket is pretty much exactly the same as the original, with a couple of small updates which I think make it even nicer (I appreciate this sounds ominous, but the new ones really are something special). The liners are being sewn at the moment, and I hope to have jackets in stock in the next couple of weeks. Autumn/Winter 2020 was planned pre-pandemic, but it's turned out rather timely, I think. The idea was to do a couple of long-awaited reissues to celebrate ten years, and then some understated Weaver's Stock garments using really lovely fabrics. I'm hoping to continue to bring out some more reissues and special short runs over the coming months. I don't have a 990 coat at the moment (915 was the short jacket with half-moon pocket facings), but I'd certainly like to come back to it at some point. I think I only made about twelve of those first time round, and it's just the kind that I think would be really nice to revisit, now that more people are interested! I'm in the very privileged position of still working with the same machinists who made the originals of all these things, and the same weavers, so reissues really can be the same as the originals. More soon, but these shirts are on the Stores and delivering to retailers at the moment.
  4. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks @redragon! Sorry, not in the short sleeve, but I do have a long sleeve (type 492) in this fabric in a 2. Please just let me know if you need any more details.
  5. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    It's similar, but not quite the same. Oomslokop's is type 429, and the new 493 is a based on it. The main difference (asides from new fabrics and buttons) is that the 429 (and the long sleeve 422) has a simple shoulder seam and the 493 (and long sleeve 492) have an overlapping double shoulder, which looks like a dress shirt yoke from a distance, but is actually the front and the back panels sewn together with a wide double section between the stitch lines. The fabric in your link (indigo chambray tote cloth) is a little heavier than Ooms's shirt, but still a lovely mid-weight. It's a true indigo chambray, woven with the same indigo warp yarn as in Tender jeans denim, so it will fade and wear in beautifully. Here's a closeup: @julian-wolf, that's a lovely shirt- there were just a few made for Oi Polloi, I think. I hope it goes to a good home!
  6. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    you are my hero @oomslokop!
  7. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    thank you so much guys! I really appreciate the kind words, and I'm always very happy to help. @persco_ (and others), I'm so sorry for the lack of jeans stock. Covid lockdowns have really hit my production schedule, and I'm trying to catch up on seasonal orders for stockists before doing restocks of jeans and other things. I am getting there, though, and I'm hoping to have jeans restocked by the end of the year. Please email me (if you haven't already) with what style and size you're after so that I can get back to you when I have something available. In the meantime, here's another diagram, for the type 492 Bench Shirt:
  8. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    thanks a lot for this, sorry for the slow reply. Do you mean this one?: in which case it's type 748 Rower's Slipover, and is in stock now. Please let me know if you're thinking of something else, either here or by email.
  9. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks for this! Sure- it's a lovely cloth. Handkerchief check is a lightweight ecru cotton twill, with a very widely spaced check of indigo dyed cotton (in the warp) and natural brown linen (in the weft). The idea comes from weaving handkerchiefs with decorative borders- the check is large enough that individual squares could be cut out and hemmed as individual handkerchiefs. The henna dye is very subtle on cotton (it gives a stronger colour on wool) but it's a really lovely soft yellowish-green tone which really brings the fabric to life. Here are some photos:
  10. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Type 473 Sack Shirt. Here's the first SS20 shirt to start coming through, and I think it's a really nice one. I started thinking about pleats in the back to give extra body to the shirt without dropping the shoulders, and then I thought it'd be nice to put something into the shoulder itself. There's a nurse's uniform at the Fashion Museum in Bath which has big pleats into the back of the shoulders, and big side pockets. I played around with it a bit and added matching front pleats, so that the shirt has very full fronts as well as backs, but hangs normally from fitted shoulders. Here's a diagram: This is the rinsed ecru cotton Tote Cloth which I have in stock on the Stores now. The fabric is woven in the UK and is a base fabric for tote bags. The buttons are pressed solid aluminium, also custom made in the UK.
  11. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks very much for this @Nei.Nor, and @redragon. The crystals are mineral, not acrylic. The first very few watches had old stock acrylic but there were some problems with smudging on the insides, which didn't look good. I've not had any scratching on mine (both my GS/TP watches have mineral crystals), but I've heard that toothpaste does also work on mineral crystal, although you have to rub a bit harder. I believe it's easier if you let the toothpaste dry out a little bit before you rub it, to reduce the amount of water and increase the abrasiveness.
  12. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thank you so much! Yes, Spring/Summer 2020 has been a long road with lockdowns affecting everything, including the UK's first local lockdown in Leicester, where my sewing factory is, and which has been especially badly affected. Luckily everyone I work with remains safe and well, and stockists and customers are being incredibly patient, which I really appreciate! Very glad you like the lookbook- it was a fun one to shoot, and a lovely location. Here are some images: the shoot was very broadly based around mirror images, both in the water and as front/back side/side. The first few pieces are on the Stores now (and arriving with stockists), more to come over the next few weeks. I'll put up some info as garments are available.
  13. rodeo bill

    Leepro Appreciation

    nice! I'm sure we'd all love to see photos. As far as I can remember I didn't get much shrinkage from the original size, but these definitely stretch out a lot, so my guess is yours have stretched since you got them and will shrink back to size with a wash. I can pretty much only wear mine 3-4 days without them getting too loose and having to give them a wash- that's a big reason they've faded so gently.
  14. rodeo bill

    Leepro Appreciation

    Thanks! Here you go, front back and jaunty:
  15. rodeo bill

    Leepro Appreciation

    Buddy Lee update! Must be a couple of years occasional wear and plenty of washes, love these:
  16. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks for this. That's the plan! My factory's only just opened back up after coronavirus lockdown, and there's a lot of catching up to do, but I hope to have some back in stock in time for the winter. Watch this space (or instagram)
  17. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

  18. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    thanks so much for posting these @redragon! I was hoping they'd be with you soon- the post has been pretty variable, so I've switched to UPS shipping for everything for now (they collect from our front step, too)- sorry that I sent your jeans just before things started slowing down. Your jeans are quite heavily worn, so the repairs are to keep some life in them structurally, but as their made on the same machine, and with the same thread, that they were originally sewn with they should wear in nicely and keep you going for a while yet. Thanks again! it was lovely to see these back after so many years.
  19. rodeo bill

    home-made jeans

    I'm sure I remember a few people alluding to their own home-made jeans projects, and I thought it would be cool to have a thread for jeans that people have made themselves. Doesn't matter how amateur they are, and failed attempt stories are welcome too. Home-made is always best:)
  20. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    thanks for this Julian, and sure- I can give measurements for anything you like. Would you mind emailing me, please? and I can give specific measurements of whichever style(s) you're interested in. Thanks again!
  21. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Here you go @julian-wolf! Back on page 26. The process is exactly the same, although the first batches were made by a guy called Matt who's since moved on to other things, but I was very lucky that the frame-maker who taught Matt agreed to take on my work- the current production is now made entirely by him, but it's the same may of making, from the same materials. The only design changes since this post^ are that the temples are now cut with curved-down earpieces, rather than straight (straight sides are nice, but I found them a bit uncomfortable to wear for long periods, and they really need to be individually adjusted to the owner's head, which not everyone is able to get done), and the fronts are now carved from a single, thicker sheet of acetate. This means there's no need to glue on nose-pieces, rather the thinner section around the orbit is thinned back- it gives the frame a lovely solidity to it, which I'm really happy with. I've just received a delivery of various styles and colours, which are up on the Stores!
  22. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    looking fantastic @chicote! How are your modified 128s coming along?
  23. rodeo bill

    Tender Co. Denim

    Thanks for this @vexed_wear! Just about to reply to your email, but I think a size 3 should work nicely for you. I'm expecting a restock of these in the next couple of weeks.
  24. rodeo bill

    New Contest Suggestions

    With the definite caveat of timing I'd certainly be up for doing a special detail on existing cuts. I'd need to make about 12 pairs+ and if there were special details I'd need payment upfront with no refunds. Sorry to get down to brass tacks, just putting it out there to help people make decisions. I do like Maynard's green denim chest idea too though!
  25. rodeo bill

    New Contest Suggestions

    Thanks so much for all this guys, very flattered to be considered! I'd love to be involved in theory, but I'm afraid I have a backlog on jeans production at the moment, and I couldn't offer a special run until existing retailer orders are made up. I'll have a general restock of standard styles around the end of the year/January, but it'll be late Spring/Summer before I can realistically do anything special. Do anyone get in touch if this circles back, but in the meantime I'm afraid I can't promise a specific date for stock.
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