rodeo bill

a few words about the Ryeland wool used in knitwear and doppler striped shirts: Wool for woven and knitted garments in Autumn/Winter 2018 was shorn from a small flock of Ryeland sheep raised in the Scottish Borders.Their wool was offered exclusively to Tender and has never before been used for clothing. The Ryeland breed is one of the longest-established in Britain, thought to have originally descended from Spanish Merinos. Mediae- val records show a flock of 300 Ryeland sheep at Dore Abbey in Herefordshire, where the wool was collected and processed for shipment overseas. Ryeland wool was particularly prized in Italy and Flanders, for spinning into the finest yarns which were used as the standard for other wools. In the 16th Century, Elizabeth I is said to have received a gift of Ryeland wool stockings, and thereafter insisted on wearing only clothes made from the yarn.The ‘Wool Sack’ on the Chancellor’s seat at the House of Lords was originally stuffed with raw Ryeland fleeces. Today, Ryeland wool is unusual as its varied colours and relatively slow growth make it unsuitable for commercial farming, however its texture, weight, and natural colours are second to none.

speaking of fit pics, here are Frans & Magali, owners of Maritime Antiques & in Copenhagen (they took over a shop with an old sign which was broken in half, so we'll never know & what) in an indigo 743 wool pattern pullover and bottle green 799 mirror panel pullover (sized up) respectively:

more shirts just out from dyeing and out into the world! These are type434, Buggy Back shirts: The idea came from when I was an apprentice coat-maker: sometimes we'd get orders for lighter weight summer jackets, which we'd half line. The fronts get a full lining, fixed in along the side seams, but the back would only be lined over the shoulders. You could just put a flat lining in, but this can get tight and pull across the shoulders as the wearer moves their arms so usually you'd put a pleat into the lining to allow for this. However the traditional way of dealing with a half lining is to make a 'buggy back': you make two layers of lining, from the armhole up to the opposite shoulder, crossing over in the middle of the back. This allows the two layers of lining to fully slip back and forth over each other with the wearer's movements. The buggy back shirt takes things a step further by running the overlapping back all the way round to the opposite front, with no side seam. It sits at the waist in the back, with a normal front length and big pockets. The lighter weight versions are great with a Tshirt under, and I really like the Sump Cloth versions worn as a jacket. I have one in Indian Black Sump Cloth which I've been wearing loads over the last couple of months. I'll get some fit pics up asap.

Here's my trick!: If you tie a knot in each end of the shoe laces it holds the shoes closed enough not to put too much stress on the stitch point, but leaves them loose enough to slip on and off. You don't trip over your laces, and if you want to be fancy you can always just do them up. Probably pretty heinous by proper shoe care standards, but I wear these every day and take them on and off constantly, without needing to bend down

They're quite lightweight, I'd say 11oz or so, and I think of them as trousers, rather than jeans. The fabric was very flat when they were new, but has shown up a lot of falling slubs as they've aged a bit. They're quite stretchy, a bit big for me, and they don't have belt loops, so I have to wash them pretty much after every day's wearing them, but I like the very soft shade they've taken on. The oversized details are True Religion's whole thing, but I'm completely on board with them in this case, as the whole garment looks pretty true to scale against the original Buddy Lee clothes. I really like that they kept the back pockets plain and single stitched, and they've done a lovely job of the hardware- the buttons and snaps are the same quality as a JP repro, but upsized really nicely. I prefer to think of them as Margiela % rather than TR... Yes, they are!

^thanks! The pattern is called a Doppler stripe, and it's woven into the weft so that there are equal sections of coloured weft and ecru weft (the positive stripes cover the same area as the negative stripes). There are versions with indigo cotton yarn, and with Ryeland wool yarn. Here are some closeups, both dyed with red ochre: While we're at it, here are some closeups of the airbag cambric, rinsed and dyed Indian black: This is a finer, lighter fabric, woven double with little air pockets of about 1” square. The pockets cause the fabric to crinkle, giving a three dimensional texture which shows up particularly clearly when the fabric is dyed. It’s woven from very fine yarn so is very soft. The technique is the same as how car airbags are made- stitched seams can perish over time, so airbags are woven as double cloths, so that even after a long time being squashed up in a steering wheel hub then getting blown open explosively they won't risk tearing. Finally, here's a closeup of Sump cloth, this is the heaviest fabric, although it’s all cotton so won’t overheat. It’s the most workwearey fabric, with a red stripe which runs down the middle of the fabric during weaving, cut randomly across the shirt:

looking great! Beautiful fading on your jeans, thank you for posting. Nice Backstreet Boys Tshirt, too!

^nice! I've also seen this used by an independent publishing house in Berlin, and Trader Joe's jumbo roll toilet paper packaging

Here's a little more information on the pullovers in the new collection: The Mirror Panel Double Pullover comes from looking at knitted clothes being outerwear- rather than wearing a thinner pullover underneath a coat I thought it would be interesting to try to make a garment that could be pulled on over a Tshirt and provide warmth and wind/shower proofing by itself. The whole garment is mirrored along fold lines at the hem and cuff, just linked together at the neck opening to form a single garment. We developed a 'blackberry' stitch (it looks a bit like the drupelets (good word!) on a blackberry fruit) which gives a nice texture to the outside and inside of the garment, but also helps to form pockets of air in between the two layers of knitted fabric, making it a fantastic insulator, but also relatively light to wear relative to its thickness. These garments are pretty massive folded up, but are deceptively light to wear.

^thanks for this. I love Wabash fabric, and I have considered it, but there are a couple of reasons I haven't come up with anything yet: firstly, it's quite complicated to make- you either have to weave a solid indigo fabric and then print a stripe onto it in bleach, or you have to print a wax resist onto a white fabric then piece dye it with indigo. I'm sure both these methods have been perfected in Japan, but I prefer not to buy stock fabrics, particularly such specific designs, which are likely to be used by other brands in ways that are more relevant to their aesthetic. That brings up the second reason, which is that Wabash is historically an American fabric, and it's more specifically identifiable as US than, say, denim, so I don't feel like a straight Wabash would be appropriate for Tender at the moment, especially as there are lovely Wabash garments available elsewhere. All of that said, I am indeed experimenting with using more indigo yarn for original fabrics, which will start to come through over the next couple of seasons (developing fabrics is a long process!), and doing some sort of bleached/resist design would be amazing. I'll get thinking....

for something completely different, here's a lovely image I received from a great friend of the brand, taken on Stromness, Orkney: 466 unlined Slad coat, 130Ps, indigo cotton 827 hat:

Seems like the right thread for these, Buddy Lee oversized doll's jeans:

thanks! jackets, hooded and collared, will be coming through around the end of October, so more pictures and detailed information then, but yes they are both available in denim (new cross-weave 19oz!) and a couple of other new fabrics

^this fabric is called 'sump cloth' and is a sturdy, but fairly loosely woven, industrial cotton canvas made to line trays under oily machine parts and soak up extra grease. It's woven with a red stripe down the middle, which is used to orient the fabric, but makes a nice random stripe in clothing. The shirt in the pictures above is dyed with red ochre, but it's also available rinsed or dyed with Indian black.

thank you so much! this is really nice to hear, I'm delighted you're enjoying your Tesseract shirt. Speaking of pockets, here's how the 'periscope' pockets work on the new type427 shirts: