rodeo bill

thanks arthur and bartleby! This is the first time I've seen a pair of Whooper jeans out in the wild- the fit looks great on you. Bartlyby, your trews look great, and are perfect with the smock. I'm currently away from the studio for a few weeks, but before I went I sent out the first deliveries from the Autumn/Winter production. Some new shirts and accessories are already in stock at Oi Polloi, Present, and Superdenim, with more to follow to all stockists shortly. I'll describe thing in more details once I'm back, but in the meantime here's a preview: There are lots of details and good stories in here- more soon!

Sam, a great friend of the brand, just ordered a new season (more soon!) shirt, and sent this lovely photo of his collection to date: It's lovely to see someone's selections all together like this, across different seasons and fabrics.

^Looking great Hendsch, thank you for posting! Yes I also wash right-side out. That said, the pair I'm wearing at the moment, after a very long hiatus, are 130 weld-dyed size 4 from the second production (SS11). As far as I can remember these have never been washed, apart from during the initial dyeing process. It's been a while since I've gone down non-washing, and it feels sort of nostalgic these, on the other hand, have been washed tons, and I really love how they're coming out. Whooper Backwoods 36":

here's a beautiful photo of the living room of a great friend of the brand: and a closeup :-)

^this is such a great shot, I always really like your photos- thank you! While various Tender stuff percolates, here are a few more details about THEN, which has been mentioned briefly a couple of times. It's a very small project, but which I feel really good about- it's been quite a bit of work but is very personal. I came across a fantastic archive of mid-20th Century fabric designs, which were lovely in their own right, but also really strongly reminded me of my grandparents and great-aunt, who were designers working from the 1940s to the 80s. The idea was to take these fabrics (reworked a bit), and cut them into the kind of clothes which people like my grandparents wore. While the work they did was pretty avant garde, the clothes they wore themselves were very simple and tasteful, almost conservative. Fabrics got woven up in the UK, and the garments are made to a very precise, tailored, level, in Japan. Bone china swingtags are an homage to Barbara Hepworth, and are made in England. Here are a few photos: As I said, this is a personal side project, so it may not be every season, but it should keep popping up one way or another. The first production is now available at PRESENT, as well as Maidens in Tokyo and Loftman in Kyoto. The name, THEN, is partly about the idea of time (a previous era, but also a link to the future, the next step), and also a reference to a great book of photographs by Alexander Liberman, who was a friend of my grandfathers (I believe). Apologies that this may not be for everyone, back to regular scheduled programming soon

Thanks so much for these! To be honest I don't see much of Instagram so it's really nice to get a look at how people are wearing things. The denim 921 is indeed the same denim as the jeans, although it's been desized (had the starch washed out) and tumbled to soften it up a bit. It's here if you're interested. Thanks very much also for the comparisons with some great stuff (I didn't know Eckhaus Latta, looks really interesting). My Japan trip will be mid-September, and we're doing a popup at Diaries in Nagoya, which should be fantastic- I've never visited but they always order really interestingly and I gather they have some very loyal Tender customers. Sorry it's a way off, but pictures to come, for sure. In the meantime I'm getting through the coming Autumn production (first pieces should be available in a couple of weeks) and finishing up samples for Spring 2018, as well as holding down GS/TP, Whooper, and everything else.... More soon!

lovely! thank you. I'll see if I can put together a full family photo- I keep meaning to do this but I'm pretty frantic at the moment. In the meantime, this is literally a one-off mug (on the trestle shop) but I happened to be at the pottery when it was being made, so I tool a few photos. 'Nettles' sgraffito mug:

^PM'd you! Our good friend Morten (who makes For Holding Up The Trousers suspenders and belts) has been staying for a couple of days, and this morning I took some photos of his type900 jacket (photos of the same style one page back). His is the logwood version, and is looking really lovely: here it is on, with Morten's own 422 woad linen shirt, 423 khaki low-tension sateen wallaby pocket shirt, and black Telegraph dial GS/TP: and here's a BFF shot, in matching shirts... ...and watches:

Thanks Edmond! Here are the pre-wash measurements for 132 Unborn jeans. Size 4: Waist: 38" Thigh (3" down from crotch): 14.25" Knee (14" down from crotch): 11.75" Hem: 9" Inseam: 40" Size 5: Waist: 40" Thigh (3" down from crotch): 14.5" Knee (14" down from crotch): 12.25" Hem: 9.5" Inseam: 40" These are raw unsanforized, and will shrink down ~2" in the waist and ~3" in the leg with a warm soak, or slightly more with a hot wash. Every other version of these jeans has already been shrunk during rinsing or dyeing. Shirt fits vary depending on the style and fabric, but generally speaking Tender shirts fit fairly generously compared to other repro-style brands. A size 4 is a Tender L, but in most styles fits comparably to other brands' XL, a 5 is a Tender XL but equates to an XXL for a lot of other brands. I hope this helps- please email me if you need more specific measurements.

Thanks! The last 900 jacket sold a few weeks ago, and I've put some more into the next denim production. Thanks for this, and thanks Chicote, too! I agree 132's what you're after, and I'd guess a size 4 would be right for you, although please email me if you need full measurements etc. We have both 'Unborn' (raw) and rinsed molleton versions of these in stock. Unborn will shrink to size, the molleton versions have already been rinsed to shrink, or shrunk during dyeing. Please just let me know if you need any further information.

not sure about a named cut- there's no lot number etc. the fit is pretty wide and straight. They're tiger selvage, and from memory they didn't shrink, so I'm assuming they're similar to, if not actually, No2 denim from the same era (about 2005)

beautiful, FAM, thank you! I'll play: I think yours has the edge actually, and I love the extra pocket. Ages ago Morten of For Holding Up The Trousers used a button as a brand for some of our leathergoods, and I've worn it as the top button of my jacket since- it got really blackened:

Here's another pair of old Evisus I fit into again . Yamane Deluxe 'Hayaoki', worn for 2-3 years with very few washes. Mr Yamane told me that Hayaoki means 'good morning!' or 'healthy start'. Again, beautiful denim, incredibly green, and I really like how rusted the rivets have become since I last had these out. signed by the man himself:

^not a stupid question at all. Yes, molleton denim can be dyed up once the garment is made, just the same as with regular denim. I currently have stock of 130P (tapered leg with passenger pockets) and 132 (wide straight leg) denim molleton dyed dark brown walnut, which comes out really rich on the softer surface of the molleton. We did have a few woad dyed molleton jeans, but we're currently out of stock. Please feel free to email me (or ask here) if you need any more information.

thanks all! they're tagged 38x35. Here are the measurments: waist 35" thigh 13" (3" down from crotch, 90° from outseam) knee 10.5" (14" down from crotch, 90° from outseam) hem 9" (hemmed at 29.5" inside leg, so the hem opening might be a bit narrower pre-hemming) they've been worn plenty of times since their last wash, so I'd say these are fully stretched out