rodeo bill

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rodeo bill last won the day on November 24 2016

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175,834 you are so fabulous

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  1. ^not my boots, but I have similar age Alden boots, and the brown paint on the speed hooks has mostly chipped off, leaving the bright steel showing through
  2. thank you Jason! these look really great on you- I'm so happy the fits worked out so well. On another note, here are my Whooper Backwoods, a few weeks in. I've been washing them frequently and wearing them every day. They're slow faders, because of the open end spinning (the ends of the fibres stick out of the yarn, making it hairier than ringspun, and more porous during dyeing, so it soaks up and retains more indigo), but they're getting a really nice clean vintage tone which reminds me a lot of 70s-80s USA made jeans. No leg twist on these as they're broken twill, but by this stage the left and right hand twill versions should be getting really twisty. more photos in a few months, this is still early stages but I'm enjoying them a lot and I think they'll be good coming into the summer.
  3. ^I'd be a bit suspicious- the rivet backs don't all match, and on the back pockets they're branded Levi's, the red tab quality doesn't look quite right (and wouldn't there be a gap where the Levi's L would have been?), the leather patch quality is a bit thick for this era, the inside tag sizing should be a stamp not printed, the waistband chainstitch should run all the way to the ends, the cinch buckle doesn't look right to me (I think Evis would always have had a pin buckle not a slide?). And more minor, but I don't recognise the fly bartack arrangement.
  4. thank you! these look lovely. Really interesting to see the diagonal fade line on the back pocket^^. I've not seen this before but makes sense- the denim pocket panel is cut straight, but the lining is cut on the bias, so that it will stretch over a wallet etc and never get tight inside the pocket. It looks as if some small pleats have formed in the pocket lining, along its grain (i.e. at 45° to the denim grain), and they've rubbed through as fade lines. Does that sound right? Looks great anyway! Thank you again for posting.
  5. Thanks J! And thanks very much Chicote and Ooms. Sorry for the confusion. As Chicote says, all Tender denim jeans start out cut from raw Japanese 'standard' denim (you can also buy these 'unborn', or rinse washed). Once the jeans are sewn they are also offered overdyed in various natural/historical dyes. You'll always see the original denim through the overdye, and they'll wear and fade out together, so it's more of a colour casting, rather than the harsher brighter colour you'd get with a coloured weft (e.g. Pure Blue, Tenryo etc) Here's a list to date of all the natural dyed jeans (not all still available), and a rough colour reference: woad (deep blue) natural indigo (dustier blue) weld (soft yellow) black logwood (greyish black) purple logwood (purplish grey) brown wattle (mid brown) red/tan wattle (warm reddish tan) walnut (dark brown) true khaki (khaki, greenish) there have been various other dyes used for other garments, but this is all the ones that have gone onto jeans. I hope it helps a little! As I've mentioned before, Tender is still a tiny operation, and I only make the garment configurations that get ordered by shops, so often a particular cut/size/fabric/dye combination will only be made up in a couple of pairs for a particular stockist. It can make it a little tricky to find a specific style, but it does keep each person's jeans unlike the next. Please feel free to email me if you're after anything in particular, or need more information.
  6. Here are some photos of the linen insulating twill. This is woven from 100% linen yarn, in England, to be set in resin, like this: While the resin is still soft, it can be pressed into shapes for pieces of sports cars. The material is as light, flexible, and easy to work with as carbon fibre, but has much better vibration-dampening properties. For this purpose the raw natural brown linen is used, but I wanted something a little bit fresher, which would show the dyes better, so I've gone for a bleached version of the fabric. Here's the unbleached and bleached versions of the same cloth: and here's a closeup of the finished fabric: It's got a great weight and bounce to it, as linen does, and is extremely substantial- I've never come across linen this heavy elsewhere. Incidentally, the pullovers, knitted from the same weaving yarn that's used for the calico and sateen fabrics, are constructed in a stitch that's intended to mimic the twill of this fabric:
  7. Speaking of the lightweight calico jeans, here's my own pair of ecru 132s: as it's getting warmer I'm really looking forward to spending a lot of time in them. They're really light to wear, but fully constructed as a pair of Tender jeans, so don't feel insubstantial or flimsy at all. I'd recommend sizing up with these- they do fit to a standard spec by measurement, but I think the fabric suits being worn a little loose. On top in these photos is a red wattle dyed low-tension cotton sateen short-sleeved wallaby shirt.
  8. ^^thanks Jason! ^diesel, thanks for this. The khaki dye is a mix of fermented indigo (greenish blue) and turmeric (yellow), and reacts slightly differently on each fabric. Here's a selection: On top is khaki onto laundry bag fabric, which is the greenest as the base fabric is sky blue to start with. Next is the calico that the lightweight jeans are made from, then insulating linen twill, then low-tension cotton sateen. Over time the brighter green will mellow to the more yellowish khaki tone. I have a theory that early uniform khakis, which were made with similar recipes, may have started out greener and faded to more of a drab over time, so that what remains isn't necessarily how things started out (this is certainly true of natural dyes used in tapestries, for example). Another thing about this dye, particularly, is how it shades and tones slightly differently even across a single garment. Here's a cotton sateen shirt: you can see it has a warmer tone across the sleeve than on the collar, say. It's a really interesting colour, difficult to photograph or describe. I'm excited to see how it ages!
  9. ^nice catch! deadstock Czech army issue (ebay)
  10. coming back a bit late on this one (and people may have already seen some details that I posted in the Tender thread) but Whooper jeans is now up and about! Here are some fit photos of the four styles, in full-width open-end-spun denim: the fabrics are all woven with the same yarn, density, and finish, but there's a right hand, left hand, and broken twill, as well as a plain weave. "Designed in England and made in Japan, Whooper finds its influences in deadstock and used American clothes of the recent past. These are not the rugged overalls of a forgotten age, but the clothes of our youth, taking flight to see the world. We believe that jeans honouring the technical innovations of the later part of the 20th Century prove as rewarding to wear as the artisanal shuttle-woven textiles of the 1870s. Built with integrity and efficiency, Whooper celebrates the era in which jeans became everyday wear." quoted direct because I think this sums the idea up nicely!
  11. Here's a preview after ~3 years!: These 130s just came back from Japan for a little TLC, and they're the best worn-in pair of wattle jeans I've seen so far.
  12. ^^great to know, and thanks so much for sharing. You're clearly correct, but it's not so unthinkable that there would have been Chinese names on early jeans: this patent was filed by Chiang Quan Wo for a workaround of the Levi's patent (credit to Jeans of the Old West by Michael Harris) Sorry, off topic!
  13. huh. Well I guess the plot thickens... maybe I misunderstood, or maybe the guy's father was doing the JP side garment work, or they could have set up Japanese weaving under license? Pure conjecture, but I wonder if the mill was named for the people who ran it in the States? I know there was a lot of Chinese labour in the textile industry on the West Coast in the late 19th Century. Any idea when they were operating?
  14. cool Mike! I was also told that the owner of one of the mills under the Collect umbrella was the son of the Canton fabric weaver (I guess Canton Mills?).
  15. there were some nice Canton x Margaret Howell jackets and jeans a couple of years ago, and the old stuff has a really good reputation. Exciting! edit the MHL jeans are still available