rodeo bill

I just received some photos from a great friend of the brand, and a long-time customer with some photos of his 10oz Cross Weave denim jeans. The fabric is woven in England with an ecru warp and an indigo weft (the same Japanese indigo yarn as used for the standard denim warp). I don't have a pair of these myself and I've not seen a pair worn in, although I've had good reports from a couple of customers. It's quite a soft fabric, but these have faded in really beautifully I think:

https://www.knau.org/post/gold-hungry-forty-niners-also-plundered-something-else-eggs get to it people!

The idea with this one was to do inside pockets, without using jets or welts (like a suit jacket), or a pocket bag- one of my self-imposed rules with Tender has been that pocket construction must never be hidden. The 456 Janus Shirt has a double set of patch pockets on the outside- the upper pockets are open from above like conventional chest pockets, and the lower sections are hand-warmers. As with the 430 Butterfly shirt the pockets are moved to the centre, and sewn into an outward-facing placket, to avoid two sewing lines where one will do. Janus (two-faced) jackets, like this one, are the same garment turned inside out, so now the placket faces in, with the pockets on the inside. This gives you two inner breast pockets, reachable when the front of the jacket is open, but it would make the side pockets unusable without some sort of opening. Opening up the side seams to above the pocket height gives you access to the inner hand-warmer pockets, and also to jeans/trousers pockets, like with access slits in overalls. Here are some photos from the season's shoot (the final images were hand-tinted, these are some extras in the original black and white): this is the same fabric as @zverhope has for sale- thanks for the pics! I have a couple of different option in stock, too.

Thanks! Yes I'm really happy with how they came out. The corduroy is deadstock from a mill that used to weave in the UK but moved their production overseas years ago- they just had a few bits left of old British-woven cloth. It's a lovely soft cord and took washing really well. I particularly like how the wool flannel liner shrinks slightly more than the cord, so it pulls the edges in just a fraction, giving them a really nice 3D rolled edge. The body and pockets are lined with Welsh wool flannel, and the sleeves are lined with English cotton mattress ticking, so they're easier to pull on and off over other garments. Here's the tan version, size 3, over a type 450 high back shirt and 136s:

following on from the Ten Years jacket and jeans, the photoshoot for the season also reproduced images from the first season, wearing the exact same garments after a decade of wear: I'm not sure whether I've changed for the better, but the denim's worn in really nicely, and it's good to feel that designs from ten years ago are still something I'm happy to wear and produce.

^thanks for this. Not right now, but good to know you're interested- I really like this style, too, and it'd be good to repeat it some time. Here are some factory photos of the 10th Anniversary jacket blanket lining fabric being finished. It's woven in Wales from Irish-spun donegal yarn, which is quite heavy and coarse as it comes off the loom, but this is where things get interesting. First it gets a wash, then to dry the fabric it goes through this: this contraption moves the fabric very slowly, under tension, between very hot water pipes, the fabric goes in damp, so the room feels like a steam room. Here's a closeup of the hot pipes: by the time it comes off the end of the rollers, the fabric is warm and dry, and has shrunk quite significantly, it looks like this: the red loose threads hanging off the sides are the slip-yarns from the red stripes. You can see that they're a bit felted, from the hot process. Now the fabric get joined onto the end of whatever cloth was last in the raising machine: this involves using a hand-cranked vertical wheeled sewing machine (similar to the equipment that's used to seal heavy-duty paper bags), to sew the end of the new fabric onto the end of the old fabric: now the new fabric is attached, it can be fed into the raiser: this is a big set of rollers covered in wire spikes, that revolve in opposite directions, acting in combination like a huge drum: Once the machine's up and running, the whole length of fabric goes through: here it is after one pass through the rollers: the texture's starting together a bit fuzzier. At this point, the whole length of fabric has gone through once, and the end of the fabric's coming up to the rollers. Now, the old bit of cloth that was sewn on at the start gets cut off, and the two ends of my fabric are sewn together: now, like joining two ends of pasta to run it through a pasta machine, the fabric is a continuous loop and can be run back through the rollers. There's a bit of straightening up to do when the join gets onto the drum: but once it's set, the machine runs continuously until the fabric has had three full raising passes, and is extremely fluffy on one side. At this point you could turn the cloth over and repeat the process on the reverse, but I like the contrast of the raised side versus the un-raised, and it also avoids weakening the yarn any more than necessary (if you passed the fabric through rollers too much, it would start to fall apart). Here's the cloth coming off a third pass: now it's just a matter of opening the loop, by cutting the machine stitches: then the finished cloth comes off the folder head of the machine, into a neat pile ready to be boarded and taken away to be sewn:

Thanks for this. Yes, I do! A couple of little things, and one bigger thing, coming up over the coming weeks. More soon...

thank you so much all! Here are some measurements: Size 2 Shoulders: 18.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 23" Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5" Full length: 27" Size 3 Shoulders: 19.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 24" Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5" Full length: 27" Size 4 Shoulders: 20.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 25" Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5" Full length: 27.5” Size 5 Shoulders: 21" Chest (armpit to armpit): 26" Sleeve length (under arm): 22" Full length: 28” I've not measured size 1 or 6 yet, please let me know anyone if you'd like these. Very happy to put them here or do them by email. sorted by email (and thank you!) but yes indeed this is the same fabric and pattern as before. The Old North version came up a little differently, as it was in a different fabric. This run is only in woad, as a nod back to the first run. I hope to make some more Unborn or other dye jackets at some point in future, but I’m intending to only do woad dye with this special liner, and the 10th anniversary buttons. Here's a bonus couple of photos: the new jacket next to my own 10 year old original: and a fit pic, size 3, with the screen-printed and hand-coloured (with a sharpie!) tote bag that comes with the jacket (or available separately): and a bonus picture of the 10 years special button master being engraved:

A big day! I received special 10th Anniversary type 900 jackets over the last few days, and I've now got them up on the Stores. I'm really pleased with how they came out. More pics and some fabric weaving photos to follow, but for now here are some flat pictures: Very excited about these!

Thanks all! Yes indeed Broark, the other new jackets are very nice too, and a little dressier. Fingers crossed they'll be in for the end of the month, too- I'll keep you posted.

thank you! and yes I really like rugby shirts. these are cut with straight sleeves and no cuff, so they have a definite sporty feel to them. 900 jackets will be in the standard 16oz selvage denim, the same as the first run, dyed with woad, and the vest is the removable liner for the jacket! as with the original model, but this has been upgraded a bit- it's really special. More info when garments are in stock!

Thank you! I'm delighted you like the look of the new things. The photos were taken on medium format film with vaseline around the edges of a skylight filter over the lens- I really like the flare and smudginess this gives the pictures. The shirts are made from Welsh flannels, cut very large and then hot washed, so that they shrink to size (still quite generous) and get a great thickness and softness, while still wearing surprisingly light. There are two styles- a WS420 Tail shirt, and a WS412 Pullover Shirt, with a half-length placket. The buttons are white melamine, and the seams are overlocked and topstitched in white thread, which gives a really nice utilitarian contrast to the fabrics, I think. There's a very nice Weaver's Stock lined jacket coming in the next couple of weeks, more of this once I have it. The jackets (and jeans) in these photos are a mix of my own jeans from the first season, 10 years ago(!) and the new one. The 900 Jacket is pretty much exactly the same as the original, with a couple of small updates which I think make it even nicer (I appreciate this sounds ominous, but the new ones really are something special). The liners are being sewn at the moment, and I hope to have jackets in stock in the next couple of weeks. Autumn/Winter 2020 was planned pre-pandemic, but it's turned out rather timely, I think. The idea was to do a couple of long-awaited reissues to celebrate ten years, and then some understated Weaver's Stock garments using really lovely fabrics. I'm hoping to continue to bring out some more reissues and special short runs over the coming months. I don't have a 990 coat at the moment (915 was the short jacket with half-moon pocket facings), but I'd certainly like to come back to it at some point. I think I only made about twelve of those first time round, and it's just the kind that I think would be really nice to revisit, now that more people are interested! I'm in the very privileged position of still working with the same machinists who made the originals of all these things, and the same weavers, so reissues really can be the same as the originals. More soon, but these shirts are on the Stores and delivering to retailers at the moment.

Thanks @redragon! Sorry, not in the short sleeve, but I do have a long sleeve (type 492) in this fabric in a 2. Please just let me know if you need any more details.

It's similar, but not quite the same. Oomslokop's is type 429, and the new 493 is a based on it. The main difference (asides from new fabrics and buttons) is that the 429 (and the long sleeve 422) has a simple shoulder seam and the 493 (and long sleeve 492) have an overlapping double shoulder, which looks like a dress shirt yoke from a distance, but is actually the front and the back panels sewn together with a wide double section between the stitch lines. The fabric in your link (indigo chambray tote cloth) is a little heavier than Ooms's shirt, but still a lovely mid-weight. It's a true indigo chambray, woven with the same indigo warp yarn as in Tender jeans denim, so it will fade and wear in beautifully. Here's a closeup: @julian-wolf, that's a lovely shirt- there were just a few made for Oi Polloi, I think. I hope it goes to a good home!

you are my hero @oomslokop!