rodeo bill

Here are some great images from Neighbour, in Vancouver. They always do beautiful photography, and these show things particularly well I think. Anything not Tender in these pictures is Margaret Howell or Niuhans.

Shin at the excellent Mode Man in Seoul just sent some nice images from a recent shoot which show a few shirt styles really well, here they are, with thanks! top-bottom, fawn logwood dyed 10oz cross-weave denim Type 483 Tesseract Shirt, rinsed indigo pick stripe lawn Type 483 Tesseract Shirt, Prussian blue wool calico Type 440 Folded Pocket Shirt

^nice find! These are Evisu International (Heritage), made in Macau to top spec, based on Levi's XX oldest oldest (Paul T's write up here: http://www.trynka.net/archive/501_Oldest_Oldest.html). The embroidered coins in the back pocket were a nod to the gold rush, and will fade through to show on the back pocket eventually (if you don't wear a wallet!)

looking good! The pullover and jeans look really great- thanks for the photo. And yeah, the haircut really suits you

while I have the camera out, I did post some similar images on watches & denim a couple of weeks back, but they disappeared. This is my GS/TP Trade Pattern on a NOS Swiss-made rubber Tropic strap. I really like how it wears on this strap!

thanks! Here are some taken today, about 1 month on from the pictures on the last page: (I mentioned it before, but for the record, this is tagged size 1 but it's just because the knitters had run out of labels, it's actually somewhere between a 2 and a 3, and fits slim on me)

Yesterday I received a copy of Fashioned from Nature, which accompanies the new V&A exhibition: very exciting, there's a small reference to Tender: it's really nice to be in a book about the wider fashion/clothing world, and the themes in this exhibition/book look really interesting and well-researched.

I don't actually have a pair of these myself, but I do have a shirt in this fabric, which I've worn quite a bit. The indigo yarn is the same as the usual denim, so there's an equally large amount of indigo in the fabric, however because the ecru warp is a lot lighter and softer than the ecru weft of the standard denim, and because this fabric is unsized (not starched at all, which is not the same as sanforized or de-sized, where the fabric is starched for weaving then has the starch taken back out) it doesn't form hard creases in the same way as the normal denim does. This in turn means you won't get such defined fades. My expectation is that it'll be slow to fade, but because it falls so nicely and is extremely comfortable to wear they don't need the same break-in period you'd get with heavier jeans.

further to that, notice in the photo of my pullover that the twist abruptly stops at the line between the main pullover and the rib at the bottom. Rib is made by alternating lines of knit and purl (basically forwards and backwards knitting), so the twists in each direction counteract each other. This makes it, in respect to twisting, exactly the equivalent of a broken twill denim, which was indeed developed to prevent leg twist.

^yes, the yarn is absolutely denim weaving yarn (I get it direct from the weavers), and is not intended for knitting. It's also un-skewed and un-finished, so it's going to give the maximum possible skew (which is what I specified when I was originally developing the Tender denim fabric). As I understand it, twisting in fabric is indeed all down to the yarn. The direction of twist comes from the type of fabric woven, but the propensity for the yarn to want to unwind is what causes twisting in the garment. I really like these knitted pieces as a demonstration of this, too :-)

rep's still not working for me, but that looks fantastic! Here's a preview of how it'll look in a few months with plenty of washes (this is my pullover):

I mentioned 10oz Cross-Weave denim a couple of pages back- it's used for new season Tesseract and Pullover shirts, but I've just received lightweight jeans in the same fabric: this cloth is woven in England using the same 25-dips rope dyed ringspun US cotton indigo yarn that's woven into the standard Japanese 16oz selvage Tender denim. However instead of having an indigo warp with an ecru weft (fill), this is woven sideways, on an ecru warp. Here's a closeup of the fabric oriented looking along the warp, as it would be on the loom: you can see the white yarn is pointed up and down, and the indigo goes across. You can also see the twill runs from top right to bottom left, so it's a right hand twill. However the jeans are cut across the fabric, without a side seam, so when you make the panels up into a garment and hold them right-way-up, the fabric is now at right angels to how it was woven, like this: now you can see the indigo yarn runs up and down, with the ecru running across it, giving the effect of normal denim. You'll also notice, however that in this orientation the twill appears left-to-right, ie left hand twill. One cool thing about this, which I thought should happen, but wasn't sure if it would until the garments were made up and washed, is that they twist anti-clockwise, like a normal left hand twill pair of jeans: there's no outseam to show the twist, but the inseam very clearly moves considerably round the leg. This is a really satisfying proof of concept! Less easy to test, but these jeans fell really soft and drapey, partly because they're lightweight, but I like to think also because of the untwisting and relaxing of yarn in a left hand twill fabric. If anyone's interested we have 129s, 130s, and 132s in stock on the Stores now, and they'll also be with various stockists over the next week or so.

Thank you! I'm really pleased you like the clock. I'm afraid this isn't likely to be available to buy- I'd love to do GS/TP clocks at some point, but this piece is really a one-off, and it would be very difficult to ship- the glass is real glass, and the hand isn't fitted securely enough to be able to ship without coming loose, I don't think. For now it's just for the studio, sorry. I'm so pleased to see your family of mugs all together, they look great (lovely table surface too). Really interesting to hear about the milk fix- I'll give it a try if and when something gets cracked at home. These mugs aren't actually coloured with the clothing natural dyes- I did look into it, but the firing temperatures of the ceramics would incinerate any of the delicate vegetable pigments, and even the mineral ones (like red or yellow ochre) would discolour. Instead, they're glazed with coloured metal salts, which turn bright colours in the kiln. I will have some new plain colours coming in over the next few weeks, but in the meantime I've just received and listed these "DEKK" mugs: These are hand engraved and washed with coloured slip, taken from illustrations made for Tender's first season of Tshirts, in 2010, by a close family fried, Dorrit Dekk (1917-2014). There's more about Dorrit way back at the beginning of this thread, but she was a wonderful artist and designer, and very supportive of Tender from the beginning! The drawings were based on animals from Jorge Luis Borges' Book of Imaginary Beings and I'm particularly pleased with how they look on these mugs- I think Dorrit would approve.

While we're at it, here are some Type 112 fitted pyjama trousers, a more fitted, evolved version of previous pyjama trousers:

Thanks again for this. Here's a sketch with the details, if anyone else is interested in how this piece is put together. I have a few versions in stock, now up on the Stores