rodeo bill

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rodeo bill last won the day on November 24 2016

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175,752 you are so fabulous

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  1. in other news, I just received these brilliant photos from a very good customer and great friend of the brand. These are Tender x For Holding Up The Trousers high back trews:
  2. Many thanks for this! From what you say I'd recommend a size 2, but please email me if you'd like specific measurements. There can be differences between styles and fabrics, but I think you'll be a solid 2. Glad you like the look of them! I also should have called out Tancredi's work, the all denim kimono jacket and floor length jeans. These were also totally zero-waste cutting, there were no cutouts anywhere, just folded back flaps, topstitched down. The entire garment is lined with its own toile, so he didn't even waste the calico used to check the patterns, and the quilting stitches are a direct reference to vintage flight suits. he get's around! back on topic, I'm going to try to put up some fabric details and information. First, here's a closeup of the freshly made 'low tension cotton sateen': A sateen weave is normally very tightly woven, of fine yarn (typically silk). This cloth is woven in the same pattern, but using a much thicker natural cotton yarn, woven at low tension. The result is very soft and drapey, but with quite a lot of substance. It almost feels like a cellular Aertex-type cloth, and will wear cool in summer and warm in winter. Here it is compared to a standard sateen (the top cloth is one of the bandanas that Tender sunglasses come wrapped in, the bottom is this shirt):
  3. Another semi-off-topic post, yesterday was the hand-in for this year's Central St Martin's menswear BA course denim/workwear project. I really enjoy doing these projects, and this was a very strong year. As well as considering some aspect of traditional workwear and/or denim history, the brief this time recommended looking at sustainably making and reduce waste pattern cutting. Some students took this further than others, but it was really interesting to work through these things. Here are some highlights: this last jacket, in particular, I thought was really exciting- the pattern came out from a single rectangle of cloth, with no wasted fabric at all, and there were no sewn seams- the pieces are held together entirely by hand-needle-felting woollen fabric across the joins in the cotton. The edges were painted with latex, so there's no hemming anywhere, either. It was inspired by satanic cults among Bolivian asbestos miners, and dyed with the designer's own blood... As with a lot of these projects, all this may not be to everyone's taste, but it's really exhilarating seeing new approaches to menswear, and introducing people to concepts that they haven't necessarily considered. Pictures above from some names to watch: Luke Derrick, Colleen Allen, Jerryl Joseph, Hee Lee, Trixie-Pepper An, Céline Schubert, Josephine Sidhu, Tancredi Vimercati Sanseverino, Jules Davies, Fabrice Desvaux De Marigny, Johnny Evans, Chano Jeong, Shunichiro Naka, Chan Hee Park, Kamine Kolanen, Andrea Quaglia.
  4. ^thanks for the pictures! It's really great to see the indigo start to appear through the wattle. Looks like there's a nice bit of leg twist happening, too. I've not found my Tender jeans to be especially slow to fade, either, but again I have a fairly active lifestyle and wash them reasonably frequently. Keep us updated! Thanks so much for this Monk, I'm delighted you like the look of Whooper. I was out in the sun today, and I can already see some nice highlights on the creases of my Backwoods, so I'm hoping there'll be something good to see pretty soon. Thanks for the boot appreciation too- these are a totally trashed (much loved) pair of Ducker's chukka boots, bought I'd say 10 years ago, resoled countless times and now pretty much relegated to going up and down the garden. I have another pair, a year and a half old, which are slightly more respectable, and which are just about ready for their first resole. Sadly Ducker's closed down in January, so I'll have to look elsewhere once these are finally past it. Here are some photos (balanced on my Whooper Backwoods, to keep things mildly on topic):
  5. Thank you! Really appreciate it. Here are some photos of my own pair of Backwoods (36"): and here's a closeup: We're only a few days in, but they're forming some nice soft creases, and they're extremely comfortable right away.
  6. Thank you for your order! Your belt will go out today. Here are some photos a couple of years on: while we're on the subject, I received an email a little while ago from a customer who'd noticed marks appearing in the leather where it comes into contact with the end of the buckle spiral. Here's my reply: I know exactly what you mean, I have this belt myself and I have the exact same gouge. I was thinking about this before the buckle was cast, when I was playing around with the master for the design. The spiral idea is a way of holding a cast brass pin onto a cast brass frame. Cast brass can crack if it’s bent severely, e.g. to bend a pin over a buckle frame, so most brass buckles have a solid brass frame with a brass-plated steel pin. This design came about by looking at how the split rings on keychains work- the pin is hooked onto the frame as you’d fit a key onto a ring. Doing this securely meant having an overlap somewhere on the buckle, and I didn’t want it to be sticking out at the top or bottom, where it might dig into the person wearing it. If it was hidden away under where the belt is sewn on it would be too bulky under the leather, and anyway I like the idea of having the concept be visible. It was with this in mind that I decided that I quite like the gouge you get in the leather. Various other Tender buckles make different marks on their respective belts, and I quite like that over time you’d be able to tell which buckle was worn on which belt.
  7. ^the only photos I can find on my computer are from when it was pretty new, a couple of years ago: The leather's aged a lot and got much darker since these were taken- I'll do an update tomorrow. Depending on the brand of jeans you wear you could go for a 5 (measured 37" to the centre hole) or a 6 (39"). Generally I'd err on the side of too big, if you;'re between sizes, as the leather's pretty thick. Feel free to email me with any questions. Thanks again!
  8. In separate news, Whooper is now live, and available at! This project has been mentioned a couple of times already, but it's a separate, very small, line of jeans made in Japan, based on lesser-know jeans brands of the later 20th Century (70s/80s, but pre fashion jeans). The denim is custom woven, 12oz, full width, and comes as a right hand twill, left hand twill, broken twill, or plain weave- it's been really interesting, and fun, to see how the same base yarn comes out differently by varying the weaving structure. Lots of details in the site, but here are a few images: I've been wearing a pair of broken twill 'Backwoods' for a couple of weeks, and I'm really enjoying them. It's a totally different type of garment to Tender, but I'm looking forward to them being my summer jeans. Please let me know if anyone has any questions, or would like more photos/descriptions etc
  9. ^thank you Broark! I wear all three, but I personally always seem to come back to the 208 spiral buckle. The flipper (210) is the longest, and it's really nice to be able to reverse it. The 200 wire buckle was the very first style, though, and is still probably the most popular. Speaking of belts, a very good customer and great friend of the brand, Alex, just sent me a link to his photos of a beautifully worn 201 S buckle belt, with the red enamelled buckle. I've seen a few of these after some wear, but never as nicely aged as this:
  10. Well, after a bit of a wait to back up stock and get deliveries on their way out to shops, here are some photos of the new production, for Spring/Summer 2017! I'll put some more information and details up asap. In the meantime there are a few more images at Photos are by Rory Cole, on 35mm film, taken at the salt marsh at Portishead, Bristol.
  11. ^looking great ooms! thank you. And Piero, too, lovely collection. I'll put together an equivalent shot of mine. Sorry for so little updates recently, it's a really busy time of year. I'll put up full new production Spring/Summer photos shortly, but in the meantime, here are the original hand-carved resin masters for a new trestle shop product I'm particularly happy with! and here are the finished castings: We'll have to wait a while for them to patinate, then put them in Shoes That Look Better With Age!
  12. ^looks great on you! Thanks for the pics. I just received a copy of a new denim book- Blue Blooded. It's been out a while, people may already have seen it, but I think it's a good one (just started reading it, very positive so far). And there's a spread on Tender!:
  13. Been a long time since I posted in this thread.... I've not worn boots much for the past 3 years or so, but I was up in the attic the other day and found all my boots (up there since we moved house). Here are my first pair of Alden #8 cordovan plain toes, after a quick trip to the cobbler for a bit of restitching on the uppers, a new section of welt which had given way, and new Dainite soles (I was never crazy about the original commando soles, and they'd worn through to leather): the white is just some excess fat in the leather, I think. It rubs right off. I'd forgotten how lovely the ripply creases are in cordovan. They'll be getting a lot of wear again I think!
  14. ;-) exactly the kind of thing we're going for. Thank you. More asap, I want to get everything tidied up and have full production in before I say more, but please watch this space.
  15. Yes! I've listed one new style here, and I'll have a few more pieces up tonight. Please just email me if you have any questions. Thanks Jason! I was going to email you- there are some wattle socks going up shortly :-) Production will be a little spaced out, through February and March, but there's plenty more to come