rodeo bill

thanks for noticing! I've got a couple of nice options coming along for this, but not the donegal blanket lining I'm afraid, that was just for the 10 years production and I don't want to make those less special by repeating them. These will be very nice though, I promise! More soon couldn't ask for more! Thank you so much- all looking great

Thank you so much for this, I'm delighted you're enjoying your new jeans! Yes indeed the jeans are garment dyed in walnut, so as they fade you'll get some blue from the indigo weft yarn as well as a softening of the brown. And yes, these will stretch a bit- they've had a hot wash in the walnut dyeing process which shrinks them down fully, but they'll stretch out with some wear, and back in with washing. It's a very forgiving fabric :-)

^thanks very much @sensy! It's a really special fabric, I hope you enjoy it and yes please do keep us posted with how it progresses

seconded! congratulations @JDelage what a beauty

^really nice. The case looks exactly like a West End Watch Co. PRIMA I have in a box somewhere. I wonder if it's the same case maker (or put together from parts at some point). Either way looks lovely.

Just seen this, appreciate it's from ages ago! Please le me know if you'd like a replacement button pin- I can send you one out with pleasure. Either DM here or email. Sorry to junk up the thread. As penance, here are the first prototype pair of Tender 125s. washed loads (maybe 10 times) over the last couple of months:

yes more soon!

EDIT! @srudy and @AlientoyWorkmachine I'm so sorry- I just took a closer look and you're both completely right- this is indeed the Old North Cross Weave Indian Black jacket. It's a really nice one, and as Alientoy says this photo looks a little darker than the garment in real life. At least I can say that it too comes up slimmer than the woad standard denim version, so should fit you ok Srudy. This fabric was particularly hard to sew into the tight angles of this jacket, so I don't expect to repeat it, and there were only 12 pieces made- great find! I'm so sorry for the mixup, I should have looked more closely before posting. As I said,

Nice find @srudy! It is a black one, but not the Old North special I don't think (which was Cross Weave denim, Indian Black, and indeed not this dark). I'm pretty sure from the photo that this is from 2011 and is regular selvage denim, dyed with logwood. It came with a natural black sheep's wool liner, which doesn't seem to be in this photo. I don't have any very good photos of this one, but here are a couple that I dug out: This one was dyed hot so shrank quite a bit more than the woad version- with luck the sizing should be ok. Let us know when you receive it!

nope, exactly the same as always- developed in 2009 and remade every couple of years since then!

thank you, and yes! this denim marbles really beautifully- it's a very very dark indigo to start with, almost looks black, with 25 dips in indigo, and it marbles really nicely, especially if you wash a few times from raw without too much wear in between.

I get asked about Type 131 every now and again- it's developed something of a (to put it very mildly) niche, following. I think I made 10 pairs for Burg & Schild in Berlin, in 2011. The only problem is I never made a pattern for them, they were just a freehand addition to the 130 pattern (if I remember correctly), drawn directly onto the fabric before it was cut. Someday I'll look through old emails (it doesn't help that I've switched my email service since then) and see if I can work out exactly what shape they were. Thanks for the link Sven- Douglas really gets beautiful wear into his jeans, I hadn't seen these since they were new! @JDelage and @Broark many thanks for this. I was planning to put up some photos here, anyway. So for starters, here are my own 125s after a couple of months and several washes: There's a nice amount of leg twist, but I'm also really taken with the twist in the top block- you see it more clearly in this worn photo: The measurements for 125 aren't dramatically different to 130 or 132- the waist is around 1/2" higher in front and 3/4" higher in the back, and the hem is somewhere between 130 and 132 with a similar thigh and straighter leg than 130, a bit narrower than 132. Most of the difference is in the shape of the top, which is cut straighter than 130 or 132. If you imagine the fabric was striped, you'd see the stripes converge on the fly more on 130 or 132, while they'd be more parallel across the fly on 125, if that makes sense? It's not too dramatic of a cut, and I'm really enjoying wearing mine. These are a size 4, which is my size in all the Tender jeans I wear, and I'm around a 35" measured waist.

Thank you so much for this, Sven! I'm really pleased you like the look of my things. 132 was the first Tender jeans fit, and is relatively wide and pretty straight, but depending on how you size it doesn't wear as wide as you might expect, more of a workwear sort of shape. 136s are similar to 132s at the top (fairly roomy without being baggy, mid/high rise) but are considerably wider through the leg to the hem- they're definitely a wide legged style, and as wide as I'd go before they start to look silly- they're still very wearable. I generally prefer looser jeans (personally), so even type 129 'slim' jeans aren't skinny by many standards. On that basis 132 is the standard Tender model and 136 is the wide leg. They both have a very nice vintage feeling, I think, without specifically referencing particular periods or brands. That was a bit of a ramble! but I hope it makes sense. Please feel free to email me if you'd like full measurements for any specific sizes.

^that 132X fit is lovely @Toegun! @MJF9 thank you and I'm really pleased you're enjoying them, seconded for a fit pic!

Looking good! thank you, and I'm really pleased you're enjoying the cut- slim but doesn't feel that way was exactly what I was going for! I'm wearing a pair of 129s at the moment, too, from Unborn: These have been a useful learning experience for me. I always recommend washing jeans fairly regularly, and not wearing them too tight, but this is the first time I've really tested that advice personally. These are size 4, and fit nicely when they were raw. I worn them about 6 months on and off without a wash, them washed them and they got too tight for me. I've since lost a bit of weight and they've stretched out a bit too, to now fit really nicely, relatively slim. But I'm seeing the cotton thread wear through much more quickly than I've ever had with my jeans that I've washed more frequently. I'll do some small repairs on the parts that are going, and I'm enjoying the relatively contrasty fading that I've not had for ages, but I stick by my recommendation to err on the looser side and to wash reasonably frequently!