rodeo bill

^thanks @AlientoyWorkmachine! No special routine, I guess every three weeks or so, washed cool, separately, and hang-dried. I'm fairly active for someone who doesn't really take any exercise- I stand up pretty much all day packing etc, and walk quite a lot. For whatever reason though I've always seemed to wear everything in/out quite quickly! These have plenty of life in them still, though- I'll post again later in the year.

Update 6 months or so later, worn most days:

Some new knitwear in! These are knitted in Scotland from the ecru cotton yarn used to weave my calico, for shirts and also jeans back pocket linings. I had a lot of complaints from my knitter (weaving yarn is twisted differently to knitting yarn), but the effect is really lovely. The fabric is a fisherman's rib in the centres of the panels, but each panel is framed with higher tension rib around the edges, making a sort of skeleton of the garment seams. From prototype samples I've found this stretches down considerably with some wear, so the garments come up short initially. I've pulled out a turmeric dyed pullover for myself, which should fade really nicely. I'll keep y'all posted. here are the fits (both size 3, both brand new not stretched out:

Thanks for this, and very sorry to hear you've had problems with your button. This has never happened for me, but over the years a few (I'd say no more than a dozen) people have asked about it. I'm very happy to send replacement pin(s) if you ever need it- please just let me know. My guess is that the button is moving up the pin to the end folded section, at which point the button is no longer in the centre of the pin, and it could just slide through? As @persco_ suggests, a gentle crimp with some pliers could help keep it centred. As far as other methods of attachment go- I experimented with sewing buttons on, but as the brass edges are fairly sharp it wouldn't have had longevity. Ring-style button backs were another option but they'd then stick out when the button is under tension (ie when being worn). I did also try prototyping a cast button which had its own integrated back, but it stuck out too much, and was a lot less comfortable than the straight-pin style. As I say, really sorry for the trouble, and do let me know (here or by email) if you'd like me to send some spare pins.

Probably partly, but it's mainly that I make one-piece collars (without a collar stand), rather than most shirts which have a separate collar stand, that acts as a sort of stay between the neck hole (lots of bias fabric cut around a curved shape) and the collar (basically straight). Without a collar stand the collar gets pulled around more, which makes it wrinkle. Also all the panels on all the garments are cut large and then shrunk with washing/dyeing, as is the cotton thread, so there's lots of shrinkage going on in all kinds of directions! These are the textures I've always liked in vintage clothes, and try to encourage in Tender things.

thanks for this! The cuffs on Tender shirts are a bit unusual- normally you have a seam allowance (maybe 1/4" or so) on the end of the sleeve, where the cuff fabric is sewn on to the end of the sleeve. With my cuffs, the sleeve itself goes all the way down to the bottom edge of the cuff, and the cuff itself just sits on the outside of the sleeve end. I saw this on a railway uniform jacket and really liked it just as a construction detail, but it has the added effect of setting the cuff and sleeve fabrics in tension with each other over shrinkage: generally fabrics shrink more in the warp than the weft (eg you normally get more shrinkage in the leg length of unsanforized jeans than you do in the waist), and here the cuffs are cut sideways. This means that the sleeve panel shrinkage pulls there cuff fabric up, and the cuff fabric pulls the sleeve fabric in. That's what's causing the vertical fade lines (where the sleeve is pulled in by the cuff and causes ridges underneath the cuff), and the horizontal creases (where the sleeve is pulling the cuff fabric up, making it concertina). TLDR very glad you're enjoying your shirt :-)

thanks @goodrain yes that looks like the same ones- I think they were also stocked by Present but looking back yes there were more pairs in Japan! Nice to see them again :-)

^those look like yellow ochre denim molleton? from Present in London?

here's a new mainline jacket, just in and starting to show up at stockists. Type 941 Turvy Compass Pocket Jacket: The idea was to take a shirt with side splits, and rotate it a quarter along its axis, so the tails are at the sides, and the seams are at the front and back. The body is panel lined with cotton satin curtain lining, but the sleeves are unlined, so they feel more like shirt sleeves and can be turned back very nicely. This fits quite generously, and wears very nice loose and/or layered with a shirt. Here are a couple of photos, from the new SS22 photoshoot, taken with a vintage stereoscopic camera on medium format film: The buttons are turned olive wood, and the pockets are copper riveted at the front and back corners.

New things coming along, but in the meantime, here's an early stage update on my type 901 Pleat Pocket Jeans Jacket. First three images are a month in, after an initial wash, the following three are after a hot wash and dry yesterday: Some lovely brights coming along on the pocket edges, and where the bottom of the pocket collapses, and some very early stage proto-traintracks down the back.

^Looking great! Thank you for the photo :-) 901 jackets fit the same as 900 except for the length. Here are some measurements (for rinsed jackets, they're fully shrunk and will stretch out and down a little with some wear, if necessary): Size 1: Shoulders: 18.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 22.5" Sleeve length (under arm): 20.5" Full length: 23.5” Size 2: Shoulders: 19" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 23.5" Sleeve length (under arm): 20.5" Full length: 23.5" Size 3: Shoulders: 19.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 24.5" Sleeve length (under arm): 21" Full length: 24" Size 4: Shoulders: 20" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 25.5" Sleeve length (under arm): 21" Full length: 24" Size 5: Shoulders: 20.5" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 26.5" Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5" Full length: 24.5" Size 6: Shoulders: 21" Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 27" Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5" Full length: 24.5"

Thank you so much! I agree re practicality and heresy of type I/II jackets. I’ve just made a small run of these for now and I’m not planning to do any dyed versions from this run. Perhaps at some point, but for now it’s only these rinsed jackets. I think this style works really well in a classic rinsed denim, though- I’m sure you’ll like it!

I've been working on a new jacket! Previous denim jackets have been more along the lines of chore coats or workwear jackets, this one is an attempt at a jeans jacket (if that's a meaningful distinction): The backs are cut straight (with a selvage back seam) but the pleated fronts are cut sideways. This means that the back shrinks up relatively more than the fronts, giving the jacket a very slightly raised back, which feels a bit like a motorcycle jacket. Here are some flat images: The shoulders are folded over from the backs to the yoke, giving a nice smooth shoulder: I've just started wearing one of these myself, I'll try to do it proud and post more images as it comes along.

Many thanks for this. Yes the base jeans are made from the normal 16oz 25-dip indigo selvage denim, then the garment is hand dyed with more indigo. The hand-dye isn't natural indigo, it's the same indigo as used in the yarn dyeing of denim, so it's a particularly deep, slightly red cast, blue. The overall jeans tone is even deeper than the standard woad dyed denim jeans. I hope this helps!

Thanks for linking @AlientoyWorkmachine! I was going to put something up here soon, as well. I'm really glad you like the idea- it's something I've been mulling over or a while. Woad is a much softer dye so the contrast wouldn't have been as marked, but the opportunity arose to work with the guy who taught me indigo dyeing in the first place, in Kojima, and I thought this would be a really nice way to do it. Achilles' Heel is a slightly wider project, and some more products to come which show the fabric difference more overtly, but in the meantime @JDelage you're right the difference is quite subtle onto denim, but if you think of it as basically being a hand-dyed Japanese indigo special ed pair of Tender jeans, with a secret nice story just for you then I hope it's still of interest. There is a very nice textural difference to the indigo, too- here's an (unadjusted) photo the side of some Achilles' Hell X Tender Co. 132s: