Tender Co. Denim

[gcartelli]

thanks! yeah it looks like standard material, no signs of darts, probably just poor measurements. figured it was too good to be true, but thanks for corroborating. If anyone has a size 1 132d...message me!

[buler]

FYI. A size 5 pair of 130s on sale at Blue Owl.

 

130 "Rinse One Wash" 16oz Selvedge Denim - High Rise Taper Fit – Blue Owl Workshop

[julian-wolf]

Was getting really tired of the cotter pins pulling through on my jeans + jacket (lost one fancy button and had at least a couple very close calls)—and, besides, it only seemed like a matter of time before the one on the jeans started poking holes in my tucked shirts—so I bought a bag of 1/2” brass key rings to use in stead

They seem to work well and they’re not too eye grabbing when the jacket’s open, would def. recommend for one and all

 

Edited July 25 by julian-wolf
forgot photos

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

That’s a nice solution. Maybe I’m an outlier - I’ve never once had an issue with the standard pins. Maybe that’s due to the snug waist on my 129s but on my 900 jackets (x2) I’ve not had an issue either. I guess if it ever does come up I’ll think about this method. 

[JDelage]

They make circular / round pins too.

[rodeo bill]

On 7/3/2024 at 10:21 AM, desolate said:

Many years ago Tender produced some T-shirts with designs by (I think) Dorrit Dekk - they are a particular favourite of mine.

 

does anyone know if it's possible to buy prints of the designs (or if there is some old stock lying around @rodeo bill)?

Many thanks for this, those Tshirts were indeed by Dorrit Dekk, an old family friend who died in 2014, a few years after doing the drawings for me. They were based on descriptions in Jorge Luis Borges' Book of Imaginary Beings. I have the originals, and when I was packing up the studio a few weeks ago I found some of the original set of Tshirts, I'll reexamine and may get them up on the Stores when we reopen (feel free to email me if you'd like more information). Dorrit drew these particular illustrations for these Tshirts, specially, so there aren't any prints available. I also did a series of mugs, which were really nice. Here are a few photos:

[rodeo bill]

Sorry for the long silence- personal and work life have been extremely busy. Reopening the Stores is going to be later than I'd hoped, aiming for end of September but it may spill over into early October. However, AW24 production is coming through nicely, and going to be a really good one. I'm in the UK at the moment taking care of that, and tidying up some personal things.

An early customer, Steven Ramm, contacted me recently about finding a new pair of 129s to replace the pair that he bought a decade ago. He's now the owner of some Mars Black dyed ones, here are his 10 year old logwoods:

"I have a new digital back for my Hasselblad 500 c/m and this was its first outing, so I was just getting to grips with it. Maybe that's why the shot of the front of the jeans isn't sharp! Not really sure how that happened!"

 

The front shot's my favourite 🙂

 

[rodeo bill]

On 7/3/2024 at 8:25 PM, merzbot said:

Good luck with the move @rodeo bill!

I saw a smudge of a forthcoming collaboration with Middle Distance (a former student?)

Looking cool 

Thank you! and indeed! These are already out there, the second set of Elephant Ear backpacks, satchels, and pouches- these in dyed canvas for SS24. They came out beautifully.

But since you mention it, one of the things bubbling away at the moment is a considerable expansion of this project, into a full new brand designed and produced by me and my good friend (and ex-student from a long time ago), Robert Newman of Middle Distance. Working sits outside our own brands, and is looking really exciting- it's a coming together of my work with Tender and Rob's with Middle Distance and at technical and street-focussed places including Massimo Osti Studio, Stone Island, Maharishi and Supreme.

More to come over the next few months, we're in fairly early stages, but there's a little more to see at @working.clothing

Edited August 20 by rodeo bill

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Focusing is finicky sticking the CFV digital backs on a 500 c/m - the split level finder he's used to isn't going to be nearly as solid as using the screen/magnification. I'm surprised he didn't check in image review, too easy not to on that! That pair looks fully loved and lived in though! 

[desolate]

On 8/20/2024 at 4:13 PM, rodeo bill said:

Many thanks for this, those Tshirts were indeed by Dorrit Dekk, an old family friend who died in 2014, a few years after doing the drawings for me. They were based on descriptions in Jorge Luis Borges' Book of Imaginary Beings. I have the originals, and when I was packing up the studio a few weeks ago I found some of the original set of Tshirts, I'll reexamine and may get them up on the Stores when we reopen (feel free to email me if you'd like more information). Dorrit drew these particular illustrations for these Tshirts, specially, so there aren't any prints available. I also did a series of mugs, which were really nice. Here are a few photos:

Have emailed you

 

[willi]

Cool sunlight fade on this turmeric dyed cardigan. Hard to get my phone camera not to smooth out the contrast, I pushed the saturation to better represent how it looks in person.

Inside vs outside

Armpit

Inside the pocket.

 

Edited September 14 by willi

[chicote]

I got a new pair of size 2 132s a few months back, and after much careful deliberation decided they’re going to be the only pair of jeans im bringing with me to south america. Funnily enough, I brought my first 132s (also size 2) along to Ecuador almost 10 years ago, and though the fabric was great for the work I was doing, I always felt like I was swimming in them. I’m still within 5 pounds of what I weighed then, but somehow this new pair feels much better, almost an ideal cut for the style I like to wear now. But I ended up doing a few modifications for the trip:

First, I added suspender buttons..  I made some leather suspenders earlier in the year and wore them exclusively with these pants, mainly cause the waist was still too big. Debating on keeping the buttons on because the waist issue was solved more recently.

A couple months back, I darted the waist, about 2cm on each side. Not professional at all, lol, but it did make a huge difference in the fit and allows me to wear them without suspenders or a belt.

Then I made some belt loops to replace the ones I removed in order to fit the suspender buttons.

Then today, I decided I’d give them a hem, and use the leftover material to add a proper back pocket for my wallet. The drivers’ pockets are great and very comfortable to use, but their size and location further down my thigh, as opposed to against my butt, makes them much looser and less secure, so I’d rather not keep anything valuable in them. This new pocket is just a cut from the hem scrap hand stitched and “riveted” with some Chicago screws (wish I had copper ones to match!).

Here’s the final product all together:

 

I’m excited to wear these in on this trip; they’ll be tucked into motorcycle boots a lot so will hopefully get some interesting fades. Thanks for looking!

[julian-wolf]

Looks great—I love the use of the original hem for the top of the pocket (+ the busted seam down the middle)

[rodeo bill]

@chicotetotal fantastic! happy travels

[Broark]

Curious to see if anyone here has experience with the Mars black denim?
Haven't been able to find much information online, maybe William could chime in if he has any details about the dye.

[MJF9]

@chicote cool as... love it! I'm looking forward to the fade pics already

Edited September 20 by MJF9

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@Broark I’ve got (2!) type 900 jackets  in Indian black. One is the 19oz cross weave the other standard denim. It’s not the same dye, probably a little less intense/colorfast (though I could be wrong), but anyways, I’m a fan. 

[chicote]

thanks yall! @julian-wolf i was always rly taken by the back pockets on this brand steel feather, a European denim maker that was around last decade sometime… they had the selvedge seam running down the middle of the pocket in this same manner. maybe a little over the top on a pair of regular jeans but I feel these are different enough that it works ok. thanks for the kind words!

[Maynard Friedman]

@chicote Steel Feather thread

[MJF9]

Nice blast from the past there! 

[oomslokop]

old woad square tail shirt during "black september" event w/ my fave indo hiphop crew homicide. talking to ucok the mc in the pic. im nearly the only person not wearing black 😛

[tooth]

Your shirt is great, but I’ll always be partial to a Godflesh t.

[diggers]

@oomslokopMorgue Vanguard

[julian-wolf]

Looks like some of the new season's wares have been making their way to retailers…

I really like the look of the new Webbing Fly Shirt

[scooby]

My buddy sent his old jeans to Tender and they're wiiiiiild

https://www.instagram.com/p/DA6o7wUvlXV/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[MJF9]

@scooby that's some wear eh! Ex Mr Hickorees and Hillside I see

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

129’s (woad) after another wash - these are a size 2. Again close ups are more accurate colors. Repairs have all just been seam reinforcement/overstitching aside from the hand stitched button hole reinforcement with the only thread I had around at that moment (contrast stitching!) - and no shortage of those but still simple enough. Crotch darning is imminent, but this is definitely the toughest denim I’ve put this much wear into - a relatively slim fit and probably over 18 months (and maybe closer to 2 years) of real wear and it’s still intact, which is probably a record. 

Eventually I’d love to beat up a pair of 132’s in a size 2…but so many pairs to get to first. 

Edited October 24 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[oomslokop]

wore my oldest tender shirt (butterfly in plain calico) to do some promo content for my new book MONGREL KAMPUNG, deja disponible from Ugly Duckling Presse in NYC

there might be some sufu-relevant lines in it!

sufu friends in north america can buy the book straight from my publisher https://uglyducklingpresse.org/publications/mongrel-kampung/

in amsterdam it's available from Stichting Perdu

in the UK it may eventually be available at yr local waterstone's but maybe better to order it from yr local indies, those who are particular about our books

[julian-wolf]

2x Type 492 Bench Shirts today, matching pressed buttons = cross-buttoning madness

also feat. Achille’s Heel Type 132

[Georg]

Animals