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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

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What is it like ordering internationally from Hinoya? I’m in the states, anyone have tips? Or just check-out as usual. 

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@rockon99 ordering from their new website is very straightforward, just check out as usual.
Keep in mind that Golden Week is about to start so they probably won't ship your order out until the holiday is over.

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Thanks @Broark

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How are jeans SUPPOSED to fit?

I noticed the founders of big name Japanese labels and many on this forum prefer baggy sizing

Myself and many Americans size on the skinny end of the spectrum

 

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Posted (edited)

Jeans are supposed to fit just the way you like them

Edited by Duke Mantee

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Damn brexit, had to pay 130 euro above the Dawson denim wide leg chino,s.

 

bought it to wear it to the wedding I,m going to.

we dutchies don,t buy something nice just for the one occasion , we wear our wedding suit to go to a funeral too. 

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Morning Paul, Dawson are not a VAT registered company so they're not able to remove the VAT at check out for non UK customers because VAT was never applied.

In future, give me a holla and i'll proxy them for you

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why are some jeans harder to stretch than others?

I start wearing new jeans at 29".  They stretch an inch to 30".

My Momotaro's gave me the traditional size down 1 painful stretch experience that we all love.

My Samurai's also started at 29" but have been a painless stretch.

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13 minutes ago, Lalafufu said:

why are some jeans harder to stretch than others?

Higher tension weave

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26 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Higher tension weave

slubby jeans are lower tension correct?  Does this mean what I think it does I can size down more with lower tension weaves for a leaner fit

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On 4/29/2021 at 9:29 PM, Lalafufu said:

How are jeans SUPPOSED to fit?

I noticed the founders of big name Japanese labels and many on this forum prefer baggy sizing

Myself and many Americans size on the skinny end of the spectrum

 

Historically jeans are sort of an ill fitting garment that were really just supposed to be practical. There's no right way. One person's "baggy" is another's slim. Plenty of Japanese brands are making slim stuff (all of that relaxed tapered isn't all that relaxed up top on many western bodies...). The Wall St Journal recently ran a piece that skinny jeans are becoming less popular in the US (for good reason for anyone who ever tried on something with more room). When the WSJ is reporting on fashion...given that they analyze revenue figures that represent what's already happened...it's a safe bet they weren't the first to notice. I mean, get what you want, but your last statement was a lot more accurate 10 years ago. 

 

Quote

 

Does this mean what I think it does I can size down more with lower tension weaves for a leaner fit

 


 

 
You can try, and the waist might stretch a bit more easily, but the thighs usually not as much. But slubby jeans fitting super slim is also a great recipe for crotch blow outs earlier, since slubby fabric is less durable already. If you size down the waist the rest of the jeans can still be too small, which is often the case in the slim stuff. 

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1 hour ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Historically jeans are sort of an ill fitting garment that were really just supposed to be practical. There's no right way. One person's "baggy" is another's slim. Plenty of Japanese brands are making slim stuff (all of that relaxed tapered isn't all that relaxed up top on many western bodies...). The Wall St Journal recently ran a piece that skinny jeans are becoming less popular in the US (for good reason for anyone who ever tried on something with more room). When the WSJ is reporting on fashion...given that they analyze revenue figures that represent what's already happened...it's a safe bet they weren't the first to notice. I mean, get what you want, but your last statement was a lot more accurate 10 years ago. 

 

 
You can try, and the waist might stretch a bit more easily, but the thighs usually not as much. But slubby jeans fitting super slim is also a great recipe for crotch blow outs earlier, since slubby fabric is less durable already. If you size down the waist the rest of the jeans can still be too small, which is often the case in the slim stuff. 

appreciate the in-depth knowledge.  I would have thought skinny jeans are declining due to Americans getting rounder

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the below by roy is one of the best denim jawnz theories if ever there was one:

"Here is a concept I’d like to start with: Most jeans, in spite of the cut, will essentially look the same on you as all other jeans. This is because denim fabric stretches out for comfort and literally takes the shape of the wearer. True, the leg may be fuller, etc., but in my experience, the issues most folks are attempting to solve with “the perfect fit” are really more body issues than a fit issue. Therefore, regardless of cut or fabric, the criticism will be of the same tenor, and one tends to fixate on fallacious rules to jeans wearing or jeans they “cannot wear”. I’m aware that this is not a popular opinion, but I’ve made several thousand jeans with my own hands and done several years of custom-fit jeans making, so just take it for what its worth (see above). Now that’s not to say that jeans can’t be more or less flattering. What I’m saying is that the issues most folks are compelled to improve are things that observers of the wearer rarely have issue with. Conversely the “solutions” that the wearer employs often cause the majority of observers to scratch their heads. You’ve no doubt, wondered about someone in line at the cafe wearing exactly the least possible flattering jeans for them. Trust me, they were just trying to solve a problem, to them. Enough amateur psychoanalysis; I’m simply trying point out some observations. Style is opinion, like this one: I think short people look great in wide leg jeans that are hemmed short or cuffed so they don’t touch the shoe. There’s no rules, its all opinion. We’re all wearing costumes that try to convey something about who we are, so express yourself and don’t worry too much about it. If you’re inexperienced then try something."

og here

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12 hours ago, Lalafufu said:

appreciate the in-depth knowledge.  I would have thought skinny jeans are declining due to Americans getting rounder

Americans as a population were already plenty round when the sausage casing trend started - so I'm not sure that's got to do with it. I always get the sense that certain cultures like skateboarding and music actually have a profound influence on fit trends. Though I never hopped into the skinny jeans (I did go slim, and still will on occasion for black jeans), a few peers of mine (involved in both) were wearing their girlfriend's jeans in like...99/00. You couldn't find skinny jeans for men then in most places. It took a few years for retailers to catch on, but then they did in a really big way for a trend that arguably has really gotten long in the tooth now. I started noticing skaters going back to straight leg, or at least more forgiving fits probably 10 or more years ago, and a few people I'd come across in my work world in fashion and were embracing looser fits about a decade ago as well. Not large people, again, btw. I think it's just now the pendulum is swinging back with the added bonus of them being more comfortable for the bigger folks. Then, of course, there is a certain contingent that never bothered with the nut huggers for a moment.

In my opinion there is a time and place for most fits, but for the truly skinny jeans that time and place is and always has been pretty damn rare - for pretty much the reasons that Roy pointed out I guess. 

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I think people have been embracing the loose fit for so long now that the skinny trend is rearing it’s cyclical head again in certain circles. I think the new innovators should wait a little longer though, lest they are confused with the laggards from the last time around! :laugh2:

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Could someone forward me to a Japanese shop that sells freewheelers and ships to the US? Looking for the 601xx.  Thank you! 

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2 hours ago, efujobu1 said:

Could someone forward me to a Japanese shop that sells freewheelers and ships to the US? Looking for the 601xx.  Thank you! 

Hoosier - Seiichiro has already helped out a few of our state-side members. He doesn’t do online but you can contact him on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hoosier_clothing_store/  or by email [email protected]

His English is great and he’ll give you all the details you need (pics, measurements etc)

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7 hours ago, oomslokop said:

 ... but in my experience, the issues most folks are attempting to solve with “the perfect fit” are really more body issues than a fit issue. Therefore, regardless of cut or fabric, the criticism will be of the same tenor, and one tends to fixate on fallacious rules to jeans wearing or jeans they “cannot wear”.

Never read this before, and was never much interested in his jeans (no reason - although maybe I should have paid more attention), but this aligns with my thoughts better than my own thoughts ever did. It could even be extended to other garments - I cannot get on at all with the micro measurements of clothes and all the associated methods to contrive a result.

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Posted (edited)

I'm not sure i would agree with this...

20 hours ago, oomslokop said:

"Here is a concept I’d like to start with: Most jeans, in spite of the cut, will essentially look the same on you as all other jeans. This is because denim fabric stretches out for comfort and literally takes the shape of the wearer. True, the leg may be fuller, etc., but in my experience, the issues most folks are attempting to solve with “the perfect fit” are really more body issues than a fit issue. Therefore, regardless of cut or fabric, the criticism will be of the same tenor, and one tends to fixate on fallacious rules to jeans wearing or jeans they “cannot wear”. I’m aware that this is not a popular opinion...

.. maybe from Roy's perspective.. because all of his jeans are the exact same cut :ph34r::D

Regarding how jeans look/fit.. Some jeans don't fit the body at all, take @unders uber-anti-fit Brass pair for instance, they're not really going to take on the shape of the wearer because they drape everywhere apart from the waist, now if unders was to wear some 10% elastane SD3 stretch denim the jeans would look completely different (i appreciate i'm going from the sublime to the ridiculous to prove a point) Maybe unders is just an adonis of a man with zero body issues and the above statement is entirely true. :D

It sounds more like a retailers get out of jail free card, Its your fault your jeans look shit, not ours!

I think even something as simple as a narrow hem can have a significant effect on how your jeans will look.

Don't get your knickers in a twist over this fan-peeps..i'm just having a bit of fun

Edited by Double 0 Soul

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Posted (edited)

You are far too irreverent Neal - this isn’t the place for your type of ‘fun’ - jeans and their fit is a profound social issue which demands nothing less than your most sincere and heedful input.

Take a look at my fit pics - you don’t see me laughing ...

Edited by Duke Mantee

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Hmmm, you're right, i also noticed that in spite of cut all of your jeans look essentially the same, i wonder why that would be the case?

Do you think Levi's are just well marketed and through the generations 30's 50's 70's  it's just been the exact same cut worn by folks with differering body shapes? :)

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The way my jeans look is entirely dependent on the legs I am wearing on any given day ...

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2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Maybe unders is just an adonis of a man with zero body issues and the above statement is entirely true. :D

Nope, and they fit like a hot mess like they’re supposed to. My jeggings are sweaty and atrocious, but are worth it so I don’t look out of place when I’m with the lads in Yates’s.


Fit is so subjective - there ain’t no right or wrong. Smoothsailor’s looser fits are awesome, as are Geeman’s tapered fits. The hard bit is finding your sweet spot. I think Roy’s advice to trial some cheaper jeans before splurging hundreds on the artisanal stuff, with a hefty customs charge to boot, is good stuff if you’re uncertain.

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Anyone have a denim western shirt they recommend? I've been looking at the usual suspects like TFH, Real McCoy's, TCB, etc. The Warehouse Longhorn seems nice but likely much too long for me, even after shrinkage.

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@discwork It depends what you're looking for. I love my TFH Longhorn, but the measurements only work for me when I'm on point with my diet (which I'm not right now). FW also makes a nice Longhorn, the Jesse.

The SDA D5335 14oz workshirt is a beast and takes forever to break in but it would be my choice if I had to keep only one. Therefore, I'd recommend you take a look at its western iteration, the D5571.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, @JDelage. I'm not too fussy on details, but am realizing I have a slight preference for non-Longhorn varieties like the SDA you linked. Curious, did you size for your TFH Longhorn differently than your typical shirts? It seems like denim westerns are cut and worn trimmer in the chest.

Edited by discwork

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