SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[yung_flynn]

Any brands make sweatshirts that work well for taller people? I'm not too concerned about body length because I don't mind the more cropped/boxy look, but sleeve length can be tricky for me sometimes since I usually need 35" in shirts.

I've been relying mostly on heavy wool sweaters the last few years, but I need something a bit more baby friendly this winter for home.

[Geeman]

I gave up on short boxy sweats as they always end up riding up and feeling uncomfortable.

All my sweats are now from Good Measure in the UK, they fit longer. 

https://www.goodmeasure.co.uk/collections/good-measure-m-21-sweatshirts?srsltid=AfmBOop7xnIJzj8sm73mCsfrl6HrzeMjLAQR3tRHQoWzjZqW7Fxv7fGw

[buler]

I love my American Giant zip classic. Definitely longer.  Men's Hoodies & Sweatshirts | American Giant (american-giant.com)

 

[Alec Leamas]

Has anyone any experience with Far East Manufacturing OCBD's?

I'm weighing up whether to grab some Kamakura Vintage Ivy shirts or go with Far East's instead... I see @Geeman and @yung_flynn have discussed the Kamakura's a few times, and All Blues Co in Leeds stocks them so I know the sizing is good for me - I suppose I'm just drawn by the obscurity of the brand and the oversight from Hayashi San with the Far East shirts

[willi]

Are you looking for a specific style or fit for your oxfords alec? Kamakura and Far East are both slim fitting on the oxford spectrum. Both have six button fronts, but the buttoning point  for kamakura is a little higher and more classic looking. The far east shirts I've seen have no breast pocket which looks very wrong. Oxfords are a topic everyone has strong feelings about and the answer as always is whichever one you feel best in and are excited to wear.

[yung_flynn]

3 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

Has anyone any experience with Far East Manufacturing OCBD's?

I'm weighing up whether to grab some Kamakura Vintage Ivy shirts or go with Far East's instead... I see @Geeman and @yung_flynn have discussed the Kamakura's a few times, and All Blues Co in Leeds stocks them so I know the sizing is good for me - I suppose I'm just drawn by the obscurity of the brand and the oversight from Hayashi San with the Far East shirts

Kamakura Vintage Ivy shirts tend to fit surprisingly tight in my experience. Shoulders were pretty constricting and arm holes were very high, making the shoulders fit tighter than expected. The fabric and details are nice though if they fit. 
 

Kamakura also makes another version called the Ametora. I really like these. They’re much wider, lower armholes, and 6-buttons based on a reproduction of 1960s Brooks Brothers. Only offered in white or blue in Oxford cloth but there are a few butcher stripe broadcloth options. 
 

No experience with Far East Manufacturing but the collars look a bit too small and modern for my taste. At a second glance, the collar is unlined and seems to roll well on FEM own site which is good. The Bears photos of the shirts were not very appealing to me.
 

People like Drakes Oxford shirts and they’re readily available in the UK but they’re not cheap. I've also heard good things about the oxfords from Wythe (nice collar and fabric, more relaxed fit), but no firsthand experience and no clue about UK availability. Signet seems to sell them though for an understandable markup vs. domestic US pricing. Older Polo Ralph Lauren Oxford shirts are ubiquitous on eBay for incredibly cheap (<$20). The fabric is nice if you can tolerate the lack of front pocket, the pony, and the smaller collar. they should still be easy to find in Europe. They're not great for ties, but are still just big enough to layer under a Shetland sweater although I still prefer a larger collar for that application too.
 

Otherwise, there are some other great options but they may be harder to get to the UK at a reasonable price. Vintage Brooks Brothers shirts are great, especially the 6-button versions from before the 80s. They tend to be wide but I like the fit (I posted a pink one in WAYWT). They pop up occasionally on eBay for $50-60 or less and really any are good that are MiUSA and not Milano/Soho fit. Newer MiUSA shirts are very expensive for what you get though. J Press is the other classic Ivy brand for OCBD and I like the flap pocket. Trim is still relatively relaxed and classic fit is huge. Their Japanese line is a bit different though. Mercer shirts are supposedly great and the closest you can get to a 60s Brooks Brothers OCBD new today. The fabric is also nice and variegated. They’re really expensive though and ordering is challenging (they only take phone or email orders). I don’t have one myself. 

Edited September 21 by yung_flynn

[yung_flynn]

50 minutes ago, willi said:

The far east shirts I've seen have no breast pocket which looks very wrong.

Some of the earliest Brooks Brothers oxford shirts from the 1940s actually did not have a breast pocket. The breast pocket then disappeared again in the 2010s with the launch of the slim Milano shirts, but is back today. Regardless, I agree with you that I prefer a breast pocket, especially flap pockets. Links below are good references for dating vintage BB shirts by details and tags.

https://putthison.com/style-fashion-drawings-history-of-brooks-brothers-iconic-button-down/

https://putthison.com/dating-brooks-brothers-shirts-i-was-cleaning-up-my/

[indigoeagle]

I like both the Kamakura standard and Ivy OBDC shirts. Just the sizing can be tricky.

Another good option I find are the Beams+ shirts. They're made in Japan.
The Jelado one is probably also very good.

Edited September 21 by indigoeagle

[willi]

5 minutes ago, yung_flynn said:

Some of the earliest Brooks Brothers oxford shirts from the 1940s actually did not have a breast pocket. The breast pocket then disappeared again in the 2010s with the launch of the slim Milano shirts, but is back today. Regardless, I agree with you that I prefer a breast pocket, especially flap pockets. Links below are good references for dating vintage BB shirts by details and tags.

https://putthison.com/style-fashion-drawings-history-of-brooks-brothers-iconic-button-down/

https://putthison.com/dating-brooks-brothers-shirts-i-was-cleaning-up-my/

To me it's like jeans without rivets. True that there is a historic precedent, but it's not what we think of as the classic look and doesn't have any modern cultural meaning.

[willi]

Just to throw a few more brands in the mix which are my favorites and what I wear after cycling through a lot of options:

https://oconnellsclothing.com/ (heavyweight, american style, classic. Ask about sizing if you're interested.)

https://www.jakesldn.com/store (more refined lighter weight oxford. Premium shirts that are cut and sewn MTO by two guys who seem very nice. )

https://eworkers.blogspot.com/ (classic shape with shorter length, casual and relaxed, looks good untucked.)

[Geeman]

@Alec Leamas Kamakura  Vintage are great choice if you want to tuck them in,  the button number/placement are designed to be tucked. 

Gitman are a good choice as they can be worn either tucked or not and have a nice collar roll. 

As @indigoeagle said Beams + are a very, very good option for button downs and again can be worn either way. Sizing is consistent (more so than the rest of the B+ range). I own at least 7 Beams plus button downs. 

I've looked at far east, but GV , Kamakura and Beams fit the bill so well I've never needed to branch out.

Yet to try, but John Simmons also has OCBD nailed down for UK shoppers.

 

[CSL]

According to convention a true dress shirt does not have pockets. Then again this kind of shirt is intended to go under a suit jacket so pockets would be pointless in that arrangement.

Personally I like that kind of shirt but I always wear them with a tie, & usually a jacket.

 

Edited September 21 by CSL

[Alec Leamas]

Thanks all that's all super helpful!

@willi I suppose the look I'm going for is kind of pot smoking jazz musician ivy league dropout? Is that a thing? In my minds eye that's what the look is I'm imagining. Great reminder on Jakes too! Jake and Albert make up a great shirt!!

@yung_flynn thanks for the detail, I can tell this is an area you've put a lot of time into examining, I'll check those links out and great tip on the vintage Brooks Brothers!

@Geeman thank you for the tip also on Gitman and John Simons, I'll have a look at theirs! I would absolutely be looking to tuck the shirts in, and I am leaning closer and closer to the Kamakura's after yours and everyone's comments - probably a popover and just a standard button down

These are particularly appealing:

 

[willi]

28 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

Thanks all that's all super helpful!

@willi I suppose the look I'm going for is kind of pot smoking jazz musician ivy league dropout? Is that a thing?

That's definitely a thing. That's Jake's house style. Kamakura is good for this too, and if you find it too slim fitting then go to Jake's.

[yung_flynn]

I agree with willi. Based on your description and location, I’d try Kamakura and then Jake’s depending on patterns and fits. 
 

Mercer, J Press classic fit, and vintage BB will be fuller cut and longer (meant for tucking) but will have the billowy fit of the classic Miles Davis, Fred Astaire, and Paul Newman mid-century look. Mercer has a huge number of cloth options and are MTO but they do fit huge (52” chest on 15.5” neck)

[JohnM]

I have a few Mercer OCBDs -- very nice materials and construction.  Standard/classic fit is really big through the middle (like old BB), but they do offer tapering options (e.g., 0.5 - 2"), which don't affect neck and shoulder measurements.

[malik]

Hey, 

TLDR: I have a big thigh to waist ratio and I'm struggling to find a good pair of denim. 

Backstory: I had a lovely pair of Oni's from son of stag a few years ago. I can't remember the model. They were a straight fit, probably heavier than 15oz. Fit like a glove at the start. Fast forward a year of heavy exercise (and little use because of covid) and the crotch and thigh got noticeably tight. Shortly after that I moved them on. Oddly, in retrospect, I didn't pick up or try on a pair of denim again for quite a while (I adopted a heavy covid fleece driven wardrobe).

Present dilemma: I have big thighs and an athletic build with a waist of around 35. If the denim fits in the waist it's usually too small in the thigh. If the thigh fits they're usually too big in the waist. If, on the odd occasion, I do find a pair with promising measurements (like full count 0105 or Momotaro M400STIB4S) then the inseam is too small (I'm 6'4).

Ideal fitting pair of denim (give or take here or there - measurements in the style of the iron heart method):

Waist laid flat: ~17.5/18

Thigh: ~ 14.5

Front rise: ~13

Knee: ~ 11

Hem: ~ 9.5

Inseam ~35

I've tried to no avail:
Samurai S3000 (too small in the thigh)
Samurai S2000
Iron heart 888 (too slim a fit)
Sugar Cane 1947 (36's too small, 38's are huge)
Full count 0105 (34 inseam is too small)
3Sixteen RS100 (maybe give them a go but a little tight in the crotch/thigh)

Considered:
TCB's (rise looks too small)
Naked and Famous (not a fan of the denim)
Levis shrink to fit
Warehouses (all look too small)
Samurai S2000 (bigger rise than the S3000)
Atlast & co (not easy to get hold of)
Tender (store is closed for now)
Oni (small rise and thigh)

Anyone been in a similar situation and can advise, please? Better yet can anyone impart a gem my way?

It would, honestly, be greatly appreciated. I've been looking for a good fitting pair of denim and have bought and sold the wrong pairs now for the best part of a year. 

 

Edited September 24 by malik

[julian-wolf]

^ Maybe MOTO or Black Sign? Are either of those long enough?

Or Dawson’s Wide Tapered cut?

You’re right that Warehouse isn’t likely to work well for you

Edited September 24 by julian-wolf

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@malik or you could go the semi-custom route. 

Libra Pondus Lb40s. 

https://rebuilt.jp/lb40s_size/

Ono-san offers a Western version which is basically 2 sizes up in the rise, hips and thighs. So you would look at a W38 but with rise, hips and thighs of a W40 (not pictured here but you can extrapolate). You would need to get in touch with him via IG and see if he wants to do it.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

53 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

^ Maybe MOTO or Black Sign? Are either of those long enough?

Or Dawson’s Wide Tapered cut?

You’re right that Warehouse isn’t likely to work well for you

Moto are for sure too short. They come at ~30” inseam. 
 

Dawson seems like the best option to me. Black sign would probably be good as well but not sure about inseam 

[UkeNo]

Does anyone know why the formatting inserts full line spacing when I hit enter/return for a new paragraph? 

this for example…

I can’t place the text directly under the prior paragraphs without the gap.

edit: this is on my iPhone on Chrome

Edited September 24 by UkeNo

[Broark]

49 minutes ago, UkeNo said:

Does anyone know why the formatting inserts full line spacing when I hit enter/return for a new paragraph? 

this for example…

I can’t place the text directly under the prior paragraphs without the gap.

edit: this is on my iPhone on Chrome

I feel like I've always had this issue, usually solved by shift + return.
It's kind of muscle memory for me by this point.

@malik the LB Jeans that b_F recommended are a good option, however I don't think he's accepting new orders at the moment.
The waist might end up being a little large, but most of the Freewheelers 601xx variants should work for you as well, they're pretty generous in the thighs / top block.

[Alec Leamas]

@malik I was reading along thinking hmm yep sounds familiar, got to be 0105's for this guy, then read you'd tried them, sorry.

FWIW I know you've noted At Last there, and the difficulty getting hold of them - but you're very unlikely to have upper leg volume issues with them. Only pair I have where I can go to my actual waist size (32) and have more than enough room for my rear and thighs. DC4 in Berlin have quite a bit of their stock - and you can also go the old mysterious email them direct route.

Best of luck finding something that fits properly though! I (and lots of us here) know it isn't always easy!!

[Alec Leamas]

On 9/22/2024 at 2:58 AM, yung_flynn said:

I agree with willi. Based on your description and location, I’d try Kamakura and then Jake’s depending on patterns and fits. 
 

Mercer, J Press classic fit, and vintage BB will be fuller cut and longer (meant for tucking) but will have the billowy fit of the classic Miles Davis, Fred Astaire, and Paul Newman mid-century look. Mercer has a huge number of cloth options and are MTO but they do fit huge (52” chest on 15.5” neck)

 

On 9/21/2024 at 10:20 PM, willi said:

That's definitely a thing. That's Jake's house style. Kamakura is good for this too, and if you find it too slim fitting then go to Jake's.

Thanks guys for spurring me on, I'm feeling a real draw back towards Ivy style as Autumn comes flying in... I went with one Kamakura BD from All Blues (so nice to shop somewhere good, in person) and ventured into the realms of made in USA vintage and deadstock Brooks Brothers on Ebay - quite the can of worms I've opened for myself there! 😬 Picked up a BD Brooks Brothers flannel with a flap pocket (actually looks as though it's the model Kamakura based their new combed twill popovers on!) and currently bidding on a number of (very well priced) old Brooks Brothers MiUSA bits and pieces.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@malik tender stores will be back open fairly soon if you can wait a few weeks. Or, you may be able to find 132/136 from other retailers though I would double check that the rise would work for you. I’d second looking at Black Sign and Dawson, or just embrace the process or At Last. I do think some options are out there. 

[MJF9]

@malik not much to add to the above... this is a bit of a challenge eh... the thigh size for the waist as well as inseam sometimes

Yamane denim is worth double-checking e.g. the Labor#7001 model (looks great)... but I think inseam will be too short

Canes M41101 a 1930s Leepro in W36 (which washes to a W34) has 13 inch front rise and 14.5 inch thighs.  Looks a good match - the issue is you'd need a lot of luck finding them on Yahoo auctions

I checked Freewheelers 1937 - the thigh measured at crotch is 13.5 inch so little short.  Ditto the Sugar Canes 1943 collectibles.

Belafonte worth a check too - hi-back trousers won't work due to inseam but they may have other models - and they look good worn big which may help

Good luck and keep us posted!

[MJF9]

^^ Tender front rise runs less than 13 inch... but if you can comprise on that, the thigh on the 132 in size 3 is 14 inch

[shredwin_206]

@malik look at the Left Field Atlas fit. It’s meant for lifters so has a pretty close waist/thigh ratio to what you’re after. 

[malik]

11 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@malik or you could go the semi-custom route. 

Libra Pondus Lb40s. 

https://rebuilt.jp/lb40s_size/

Ono-san offers a Western version which is basically 2 sizes up in the rise, hips and thighs. So you would look at a W38 but with rise, hips and thighs of a W40 (not pictured here but you can extrapolate). You would need to get in touch with him via IG and see if he wants to do it.

I'm not familiar. Interesting. The denim looks great. Plus, love the idea of picking something up from such a small brand/absolute artisan.
 
So you're saying there are two options? One: semi-custom (I can send over some measurements to alter his existing pattern). Two: he offers a western cut OTR? 

Is the best insta handle to ask him if he's taking orders this one? https://www.instagram.com/librapondus/?locale=undefined&hl=am-et
@Broark  roger that. I'll drop him a line to confirm and report back. 

Huge thank you to everyone for the suggestions. I'll update with my next moves. 




 

Edited September 24 by malik

[malik]

I just had another look at the Momotaro M400STIB4S, I may have ruled them out prematurely 
https://momotaro-jeans.com/m400stib4s-400-standard-wide-14-7oz-button-fly.html

The 34's have a ~14.61 thigh and a 33.98 inseam. My last pair of Sams were tapered to a 34.75 inseam with a 12.25 rise. I'm right in thinking that's the same length, right? (or is there a catch to this simple logic?)

The description says "TOKUNO BLUE' fabric... designed for enjoyment in its rigid (unwashed) state." and "By applying a process that minimizes shrinkage after washing to the utmost extent, reduce the drawbacks of rigid (unwashed) fabrics and alleviate concerns about size selection. #400 is the most relaxed, wide-fitting model."

So although they're unwashed it sounds like they're good to go from day one without a wash to shrink to size and I can expect minimal shrinkage down the line. Hmmm. What do you people reckon to that?

I'm not that familiar with Momotaro but a quick glance suggests this a new cut and new material as part of a rebrand which also includes no stripes on the pocket (which I prefer)

Looks like they're only available through the Momotaro site for now 

Edited September 25 by malik