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It's been a while, but here are some findings on J86. The fabric is indeed a Gore-Tex, but from the Pyrad line. A bit water-resistant(ACR says it can withstand some rain), windproof, and yes, flame-resistant (A friend confirmed with E himself). Unfortunately, I still don't know what GTB stands for(we'll find out eventually). The silhouette is based on the Type II jacket, and the arms patterns come from Medieval European armor and pourpoint, especially the Grande Assiette (plate) pattern. The Grande Assiette comes with triangle patterns on the front and back. It is very clear on J86. On the back, ACRNM adds a line that goes all the way to the hem. Under the armpits, are extra triangle patterns, which is the modern take on extra room for movement. The patterns of the forearms are literally from gauntlets of armor. If you ever wonder why the chest pockets look like that, here's the answer. It's all about triangles. ACRNM even sacrificed the storage for this - they stitched the pocket entry to maintain the shape. The chest pocket cannot open fully. The most important thing I want to mention: the stitching on the front plate pattern is actually not continuous; the chest pocket breaks it (see above). No stitching underneath. Yet you may still see the pattern is complete because they manage to make the curve visually continuous. I can imagine how hard this is during production. Overall, J86 combines 3 different times in 3 dimensions: Now (fabric), 50s American workwear(silhouette), and Medieval(arm pattern). Triangle of Happiness PS. English is not my first language. I'm making a video for this but in Chinese. If you speak Chinese you might already watch my previous videos. If you don't, remember these are the most interesting parts so you won't miss a lot.

Lets talk Coats. Has anyone over the years had an Acrnm coat that they really enjoyed? I'm partial to the J46-S. It seems to be the right amount of everything. Versatile, simple and great.

DC 4 ,located in Berlin ,Germany got loads of cool stuff from this brand, unfortunately not yet listed on website . Denim jeans lots 126,147,161,162 Jackets lot 118J,147J,163J Chinos, one pocket tee, chambray shirt More come in next week!!! Me just goofin around in a 147 !

I second J61-WS, perfect all year round for So-Cal. J54-LP would be my grail, bummed it's never come across my table even as an opportunity to grab. The hood structure and pocket layout are incredible.

My fav are J61-WS (for spring /summer) and J46-FO (autumn/winter). Oh forgot about J33-E. Have both colorways.

Very cool review. I can't get around the Lara Croft pointy chest pockets when opened, but still a really cool piece and interesting design.

Supposed to be the remnants of storm Lee today, according to the Met Office. Bit disappointing actually, came home to a garden covered in the usual debris, but not one buckleback jacket or a single pair of Lee riders to be seen.

J99U is the best coat acronym have made. I'd kill for an -FO version.

https://www.blueowl.us/collections/sale/products/buffalo-check-half-zip-pullover-in-red?variant=39738675560506

neither as good as the Skagit, and neither are flannel (that vintage shirt doesn’t look like flannel?) but … Jelado Ciggy Warehouse Lot 3039

Saint James - Denime - Converse

J33 is goat

^ those items must’ve ridden the storm out Charlie, especially the blanket lined jackets.

J33-E was pretty slept on, but I'm a huge fan of it. I would love an opportunity to own a J62-PB or J38-LP, though

A very early heads up- looks like Jelado will be doing some 40’s Leepros in Spring/Summer 2024: https://www.instagram.com/p/CxX3ZacsEIJ/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Nothing really is, though, is it? I’d wear mine twice a week if I could

Acronym Acronym J23-CH Denim S Small Asymmetrical Zip Sling Jacket | Grailed who dropped $6k on a j23-ch lol...

Here are some measurements for the 220 and 221 (size 36, warm water soaked, washed, and dried in the dryer for 30 minutes): In order -- waist, front rise, back rise, thigh, knee, leg opening, inseam.

Hermann Oak with steel buckle, brass and nickel plated steel spots and vintage glass

Benzak, Sam’s, Gustin The view from the studio

Some updates to the LB 40s jeans, worn for about 3 months so far. Denim is starting to show some signs of life, really enjoying them so far. There's a nice grain starting to develop. My complaints are minimal, the selvedge ID is a little wide and I wish the front pocket openings were a little bigger.

When l bought my first pair of 1930 Lee 101's, l had no idea what to expect with shrinkage as it was a newly released model. This would've been 2008 and although l was a only a lurker here, there was still no info on them and l didn't know they were sanforized. So I ordered a sz 32 which were massive so l chucked them in the wash and no shrinkage. Waist size was doable with the cinch so l got my Mum to home hem them (again before l knew about chainstitched hemming services if there was such a thing back then). In frustration l gave them a boil wash. The result was a high waisted loose fit jean, lighter blue denim and a slightly highwater hem. The new pair are a sz 30 (measured 34) and are a closer fit. They are now my replacement garden/yard jeans. These had a soak originally after l bought them back in 2016 and have only been worn for a few months before l gained a bit of weight. Took them to be shortened and hemmed at Soas after purchase, giving them a yellow thread to match the belt loop bartacking. Especially love the patch - "copper riveted cowboy overalls "

At the beginning they named Shakedry materials based on its performance "persistent beading" (PB). Started from J67-FO (please correct me if I am wrong) they renamed it to FO which is going for the construction of the material "film out" (FO)

02 is a 60s cut, and 03 is a WW2 cut, I believe.

^ Compared to 01, 02 is a little slimmer and 03 is a little wider at the bottom. Top block fit is pretty similar on all three cuts.

Those belts are remarkable Duke. Superb work.

@CharlieMike here are the pre/post wash measurements for my pair of 221. I’m not entirely certain of the water temp, but 40C would be in the ballpark. Raw/Washed - InchesWaist: 17/16Rear Rise: 15.5/15Front Rise: 12/11Thigh: 12.25/11.25Knee: 9.5/9Hem: 8.25/7.75Inseam: 34/32

Perhaps they’re showing as sold out until they actually become available and then the correct quantities will be shown so that customers can order them.

Liked my J1L, but sold it. Didn’t need it that much.

J61-GTV, J82-WS when I want to travel really light.

My dream coat: J62-PB

10 times the price just to look like Guerilla Group lol

The area of concern. It’s nearly threadbare, and the tear in the knee goes all the way through. I don’t own a sewing machine but am thinking of hand darning the individual small holes, then putting a larger patch underneath and using a sashiko pattern to reinforce it. I’m having a hard time deciding what to do about the knee hole though. Maybe a patch on top would be worthwhile.

Obviously can't speak for @julian-wolf(fit looks great to me though!), and I'd be very interested to hear his thoughts, but I've also been dissatisfied with corduroy options- for whatever reason I'm just not that into corduroy jeans, but I'm not ready for full tailored trousers in corduroy, either. 122 is directly based on 132, with the same amount of seat shape taken out with a vertical pleat rather than a horizontal/diagonal yoke seam. Sizing is equivalent. I don't know how to quote across threads, but in the Wide Jeans Thread @chicote said "the tender 132 as a wide fit option — again, just my experience wearing a size 2 (roughly 1 inch oversized on me) which I felt like I was swimming in years ago!". Not quite sure if this is what he meant, but his comment reminded me of something that I was told when I worked at Hackett in London 20 years ago (now more fashion/midmarket than it was then, when it was still a pretty legit traditional outfitters, somewhat similar to how Drake's is now). I was told that Hackett neck ties were always 'the right' width, but that that subtly changed every so often, so that within the broader fashion context they didn't look unusually skinny or wide. I can't remember who it was that told me this, but they also said that this was the same with Levi's 501s, which isn't actually a set pattern at all, but changes/d with the times (as we know). Looking at 132s and the 122s which I'm wearing at the moment, they were originally intended as a wide fit, and the pattern has never changed at all, but over the last 13 years they now feel more like a regular fit to me, with 130 seeming quite slim. Granted I may personally be growing into them (ahem), but looking at Julian's 122s I think they just look 'right' rather than notably wide or high-waisted.

Haven’t popped in here in a while but I gotta say, E looks good in the hat/gloves lol. Better than the cat eyes glasses and pointy balenciaga shoes … his overall look has more of that dystopian usps deliverer vibe which I would take over tacky graphics/ neon/ weirdo balenciaga stuff. Unfortunately, the latter still seems to be the main direction he’s going.

experimenting and creating art is great! Telling someone their art or experiments are not very good, if you think they're not very good, is also fine. This modern mindset that you need to live in a rubber room where everybody tells you everything is great, is stupid. Grow up. Hope that's not too offensive! Personally, I don't really care about the shoes. It's a cool concept, but not a very good execution.

here you go. I'll try to get some action shots this week!

It's Officially Batman Day And I to kipok some pictures for the brewery's social media today. And of course I took a few for myself.

Ooe / Buaisou / At Last / Viberg

Repairs following @chicote instructions. My wife got me a sewing machine for my birthday in june, took a while to set it up, but its coming along. Repairing tcb contest 40s rn

Wickett & Craig bridle in dark brown with cobra overlays, vintage glass jewels, brass hardware and antique Japanese coin

A variation of my own belt for @dirkdongler7 on IG Wickett & Craig bridle, solid brass hardware with turquoise and jasper gemstones, vintage cowboy spots and Japanese coin Not possible to make this again as my supply of cowboy spots is now exhausted

@AlientoyWorkmachine Barnstormer is great; I’ve proxied from them in the past using buyee and service has been very good with fast shipping to the US. I also preordered the 03’s so hoping my previous experiences with Barnstormer / Buyee hold true this time around.

A 4th belt to @coastal_file on IG J&FJ Baker oak stained oak bark tanned bridle leather with nickel plated steel hardware, white howlite and leopardskin jasper gemstones, and a sterling antique Japanese coin

Bridle leather, lizard, goldstone gems, solid copper saddlers rivets and copper patina hardware

It was not my intention to create something super unique, I actually wanted the ghille look but more visible as on the blazers, which was the initial idea for them if I got this right. This is just playing around with some old vans, nothing more nothing less.

I understand why its off putting, the concept of it just being expensive nike x acr, but i mean, this really isnt anything new is it? Seems odd to criticise them continuing their iterative design process just because their inspiration/cut is originally from a collab, not a contract. No one looks down upon the burton and j120 design cues. Call them kinda boring sure, they are, but it seems par for the course and to be expected. Not like its made of shitty materials, it will be a really high functioning piece in theory.