keynezk

Well, what I heard, Haven didn't quit. Haven was cancelled.

It's been a while, but here are some findings on J86. The fabric is indeed a Gore-Tex, but from the Pyrad line. A bit water-resistant(ACR says it can withstand some rain), windproof, and yes, flame-resistant (A friend confirmed with E himself). Unfortunately, I still don't know what GTB stands for(we'll find out eventually). The silhouette is based on the Type II jacket, and the arms patterns come from Medieval European armor and pourpoint, especially the Grande Assiette (plate) pattern. The Grande Assiette comes with triangle patterns on the front and back. It is very clear on J86. On the back, ACRNM adds a line that goes all the way to the hem. Under the armpits, are extra triangle patterns, which is the modern take on extra room for movement. The patterns of the forearms are literally from gauntlets of armor. If you ever wonder why the chest pockets look like that, here's the answer. It's all about triangles. ACRNM even sacrificed the storage for this - they stitched the pocket entry to maintain the shape. The chest pocket cannot open fully. The most important thing I want to mention: the stitching on the front plate pattern is actually not continuous; the chest pocket breaks it (see above). No stitching underneath. Yet you may still see the pattern is complete because they manage to make the curve visually continuous. I can imagine how hard this is during production. Overall, J86 combines 3 different times in 3 dimensions: Now (fabric), 50s American workwear(silhouette), and Medieval(arm pattern). Triangle of Happiness PS. English is not my first language. I'm making a video for this but in Chinese. If you speak Chinese you might already watch my previous videos. If you don't, remember these are the most interesting parts so you won't miss a lot.

You're right, WS lined with AD

no P43 in FW23 or SS24 retailer drops idk if they ever release ms version of retailer stuffs

I don't think you need to FOMO for SS24. At least you can get one from mothersite. Just think about SS21 when the production number was relatively lower than current seasons. Some retailers had everything sold out, some put them on sale. The SS24 price will still be high enough to keep many people out.

I also heard about capped quantities. It's pretty credible as the preorder for SS24 is ongoing. Some retailers seems to cut themselves this spring as many items from last few seasons are sitting (as intended). In this season the only item not on sale everywhere was J105, which was not stocked by many retailers. I guess the equilibrium was reached. They just follow this logic to help themselves and retailers.

The key difference between GTPL and GTV is the face fabric. The Polymer Dot Backer is pretty much the same. GTPL face fabric is smooth and thin(except J104); GTV face fabric has a canvas feel(100% PES according to acrnm.com) and it's less noisy than GT and GTPL

6201.40.7000 men's Water-resistant jacket However, if you are the sender, just claim it as a gift and declare the value lower than $800; there will be no tax on goods below $800.

Some retailers know nothing about their customers. They stocked tons of J94/J95/J96s and created the biggest acronym sale season. Then they decided to be overly conservative this season. Some even chose J111 over J105. I'll never get the logic. At the end of the day, J105 is a DS jacket.

if you click Eth0s link on https://acrnm.com/stockists ......

UPS duty rate guide for US folks If you find your duty charge is too high: The cause of this problem is that ACRONYM provided incomplete codes to UPS, like 62014000 which does not exist. You need to give UPS the right one. 1. Call UPS international line or billing department to confirm your duties if it's not updated on the website. The duty charges update once the package enters the US. 2. Email UPS for HTS code alternation (it is the only way to reach them): [email protected] (Usually this one) Or: [email protected] Explain yourself. Send an email with screenshots & links of the product page showing the fabric and screenshots & links of the fabric/material (dryskin/goretex page) stating it's water resistant. Give them the code you want to use. 3. Correct code: -DS pants: 6203.43.1190 WR or WP jackets (-GT/-WS/-GTPL,etc): 6201.40.7000 This will correct the rate to 7.1%. Extra 7%(or 8?) if made in China, this one is fixed. The key is to prove the item is water-resistant. Acronym used the correct code for -E pants based on my experience. 4. After UPS changes the code, they will give you a number to call and pay. Extra thing if you want to get rid of the C.O.D shipment: (cannot guarantee if it works for you) Register for a UPS billing center account, then all bills will be posted there instead of C.O.D shipment. This could earn you extra time to dispute the duty charges, and the driver won't ask for fees on delivery.

GTV face fabric feels better, thicker, and not noisy. the backer is very close.