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Sugar Cane Denim

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3 hours ago, Foxy2 said:

My own understanding of people's different approach to dryers is that it is at least partially cultural - if you live in a moderate or hot climate you simply don't have and/or need a dryer.

I grew up thinking that taking a shower twice a day, washing all of your garments every single day, having giant sized washing machines and giant sized dryers in addition is a massive waste of money, water and electricity - not to speak of the use of fabric softeners...
I am not arguing that they are not convenient or very useful in less dry climates.

the other argument against dryers is what they can do to pleats & ceases and to leather patches if you are not careful.

now, we have most washing machines with integrated dryers and I only use that function every blue moon (after thinking twice) - there are no short-cuts in live!

Very interesting. I had only been thinking of this from a very denimcentric point of view—was it good or bad for the fabric, its longevity, fades, sizing, and yes the leather patch damage, etc..

By all means if someone has a personal belief about dryer usage then I don’t want to be judgemental about that.

Good to consider this.

-Pedro

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, conqueror said:

yeah, dryers are definitely very US centric: most americans i've met seem to to use them for absolutely everything. in the UK and australia i've owned a dryer as well, but like MF i only ever really use it for towels and bed sheets. i could easily go without one if needed.

I can recall when families in the US began relying on dryers, it was when women left the traditional role of stay-at-home mom and entered the workforce. Line drying was a time consuming task and left clothing exposed to summer storms unattended.

 

Edited by Pedro

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Good Day, guys! There is an online shop Hinoya in Japan. So, in honor of the 70th anniversary of the store, TOYO Corporation released a collab from denim, as in Okinawa, in the fit SC42014 TYPE-III. As long as there are all sizes.

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Posted (edited)

OK, my apologies for hogging this forum.

I have a question about the 40303 vs the 40304. Are they identical pattern except 303 has a back cinch? Or is the leg and top block unique for each?

According to the Winter-2018 catalog posted by @JDelage it has only the Lot: 304 description which is “Straight Model”. (Attached image)

Lot 303 must be from earlier year catalog I cannot locate online.

But in Rakutan description for the 303 it says the “Silhouette is slightly a bit big”. 

Sidenote:

And whats the deal with the absolute horrible translations from JP to EN? With modern technology and Google Translate available, I can only wonder if SC continues to provide such ridiculous translation attempts just to continue with the sense of olden days?

 

6D108DF4-6DBC-4248-A12E-5FD8662C4E84.jpeg

Edited by Pedro

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Posted (edited)

yeah, machine translation for Japanese is still struggling big time - you should try this with Yamane Hidehiko's Evisu blog sometime. he seems to be writing in a very heavy local dialect most of the time...

Regarding dryer use:

23 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I have a washer-drier and the drier is only ever used for towels (as it softens then) and drying my kids school clothes in an emeegency if they are still damp. That’s it and I live in London, which isn’t particularly warm. Like Foxy, I see regular use of the drier as unnecessary and not environmentally friendly.

20 hours ago, conqueror said:

yeah, dryers are definitely very US centric: most americans i've met seem to to use them for absolutely everything. in the UK and australia i've owned a dryer as well, but like MF i only ever really use it for towels and bed sheets. i could easily go without one if needed.

20 hours ago, Pedro said:

Very interesting. I had only been thinking of this from a very denimcentric point of view—was it good or bad for the fabric, its longevity, fades, sizing, and yes the leather patch damage, etc..

By all means if someone has a personal belief about dryer usage then I don’t want to be judgemental about that.

Good to consider this.

-Pedro

19 hours ago, Pedro said:

I can recall when families in the US began relying on dryers, it was when women left the traditional role of stay-at-home mom and entered the workforce. Line drying was a time consuming task and left clothing exposed to summer storms unattended.

 

I didn't want it to be political or about the US vs. the rest, but I got a bit curious about actual statistics...

according to the US EIA (2017) about 81% of US households have a dryer and about 79% use it.
https://www.eia.gov/todayinenergy/detail.php?id=31692

comparable numbers for the UK, France or Germany from consumer interest and market research groups are in the range of 45-55% - Italy is supposed to have a number of less than 10%, but I haven't researched that.

Edited by Foxy2

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2 hours ago, Pedro said:

I have a question about the 40303 vs the 40304. Are they identical pattern except 303 has a back cinch? Or is the leg and top block unique for each?

 

The measurements are not exactly the same:

http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40303/sc40303.html

http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40304/sc40304.html

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^ The 303 was meant to be a '37 model and the 304 a '47. I know Sugar Cane's cuts aren't very repro-specific, but there should still be some differences accordingly. Same goes for the detailing, with the former having a cinch back + crotch rivet, etc.

Thanks for taking the time to look that up, Foxy. Always great to be able to put numbers to this sorta conversation.

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Posted (edited)

@JDelage @julian-wolf,

Great suggestion to compare measurements, I wasn’t sure how much could be discerned from those dimensions on such few regions of thigh and such noted. Great if there was a mid-thigh, knee, calf.

****The 303 is 1-cm larger in front rise, thigh & hem and 1-cm narrower in waist so has slightly fuller leg. (According to measurement table provided)****

The big plus for me in the 303 is that rear cinch ;-) 

Does anyone recall which season/year SC catalog the 303 would appear in? 

Either way, I am quite excited for their arrival.

Thanks

Edited by Pedro

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I think the '30s jeans and jacket in that fabric were from last year and the '40s jeans (incl. the slimmed-down version) and '50s jacket were from this most recent year

The fabric hasn't been around for more than a year and change

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Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

I think the '30s jeans and jacket in that fabric were from last year and 

@JDelage  was kind enough to provide a link earlier to the Fall/Winter 2018 SugarCane catalog.

Any idea how to find previous catalogs that would have the Lot 303? 

EDIT:

I found “Sun & Surf” 2018

http://www.toyo-enterprise.co.jp/

Edited by Pedro

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Nope, no advice there. Sadly, Toyo's website is pretty useless for anything beyond linking to the current catalog.

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Here is that hairy-ness I mentioned a few days ago on my SC41947A. 

F9EAA32A-FE48-4905-8ED1-4411120FDC45.jpeg

3D674164-7888-40B7-A7D5-576F79F160BA.jpeg

DE237500-4606-4011-A3E1-776F8F65B0CF.jpeg

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, tchengaa said:

@Pedro are those regular 1947 jeans? look so hairy ....

Yes, regular SC41947 OW 14.25-oz “Standard Denim” of 100% Zimbabwe Cotton.

Pants were turned inside out with all buttons on fly closed. Washed one time with only small amount Woolite and placed in dryer with fabric still inside-out on high heat until dry. Washed 2nd time same procedure but removed from dryer still a little damp.

Is this not typical? It is my first pair of this type of denim but really seemed crazy.

Edited by Pedro

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2 minutes ago, Pedro said:

Yes, regular SC41947 OW of 100% Zimbabwe Cotton only.

Turned inside out with all buttons on fly closed. Washed two times with only small amount Woolite and placed in dryer with fabric still inside-out. 

Is this not typical? It is my first pair of this type of denim but really seemed crazy.

Pedro- can you please stop the constant quoting of posts, particularly those immediately above the one you’re responding to. There are a number of ways of making it clear who/what you are replying to without indulging in this practice.

Thanks.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Pedro- can you please stop the constant quoting of posts, particularly those immediately above the one you’re responding to. There are a number of ways of making it clear who/what you are replying to without indulging in this practice.

Thanks.

 

Did somebody wake up grumpy? Yes I will be glad to do that and next time maybe you can please just send me a PM.

I did not realize I was doing something wrong. I participate in numerous technical & industry forums and it is protocol to always include the quote receiving the response for the sake of clarity.

It was certainly not an “indulgence”  ;-)

EDIT:

Geez guys, whats with the reps to his post? Rather than get all cliquish, just send a new guy a friendly PM...its 2019 and inclusiveness is finally cool...Lol

 

Edited by Pedro

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5 minutes ago, Pedro said:

Yes, regular SC41947 OW 14.25-oz “Standard Denim” of 100% Zimbabwe Cotton.

Pants were turned inside out with all buttons on fly closed. Washed one time with only small amount Woolite and placed in dryer with fabric still inside-out on high heat until dry. Washed 2nd time same procedure but removed from dryer still a little damp.

Is this not typical? It is my first pair of this type of denim but really seemed crazy.

mine is not as hairy as yours, maybe i havent really zoomed in that close yet

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Posted (edited)

@tchengaa

Only the last photo is zoomed in. The first two are what is visible to the naked eye when the light catches them.

 

Edited by Pedro

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@Pedro my momotaro are not as hairy and are also Zimbabwe cotton, it must be a process to either keep or get rid.

 

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@chambo2008

You’re right, “singeing” is very often part of the final finishing process (sizing) but I wasn’t sure if it was a SC practice.

 

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Posted (edited)

The Okinawa and Hawaii SC41701 jeans are interesting, anyone know a shop that has them with a longer than 30 inch Inseam? I can only find them at PSA

Edited by lyraman

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Thanks, but they don’t carry the sc41701, maybe Denimio can find some

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^ This is the first time I'm looking these up, the model number's throwing me off a bit—a 1 for the second digit should mean that they're made from standard cotton denim, not mixed fabric. Seems like they've been sticking to that for a pretty long time. Going with the 7xx lot number for a weird pair of jeans at least matches up well with the old Oki Rainbows. Go figure?

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Posted (edited)

I think he's referring to the crazy mismatched Okinawa/Hawaii denim jeans being talked about on the last page, they're the SC41701.
I think they might only come in a 30 inseam, that's all I've seen so far. 

Edit: Hinoya has them in a 34 length in some sizes here @lyramanhttps://global.rakuten.com/en/store/hinoya/item/sc41701a/

Edited by Broark

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thanks Broark, those are the sc41701's  I'm looking for.

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No problem, let us know if you get a pair and post some pictures. I'm passing on them because they're a bit too slim for my liking these days.

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Maybe even worth asking PSA if they'll get a pair with a 34" inseam for you? 
I think I'll try that, been in contact with Naoki about a pair of these anyways.

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Naoki sent me measurements for a washed size 30 in 32 length and they'll end up at 77cm, so just a tad over 30“.

Also they'll come up a little slimmer than the usual 47s (29cm thigh in a size 30)

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