SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[shredwin_206]

Anyone know how to purchase from gold gate Japan? Looking at their wrangler bluebell repros 

[81FXR]

On 4/27/2025 at 3:58 PM, MJF9 said:

Anyone know a reputable Effector retailer? Assuming a Japan based company will be the best pricing but open to any. Thanks.

Bit late to this but I bought some Effector directly from them, shipped to the UK.

It’s worth noting that (as I discovered) you’re not able to return them unless faulty!

 

[sven]

Found this Type 3 in really good condition, near mint. The denim on it looks and feels amazing.  
It doesn't have any handwarmer pockets. Can anyone tell when it was made?

[Maynard Friedman]

^ 2001 I think.

[vlad_III]

On 5/16/2025 at 10:42 PM, shredwin_206 said:

Anyone know how to purchase from gold gate Japan? Looking at their wrangler bluebell repros 

I can always help locally here in Japan. 

[sven]

On 5/17/2025 at 7:37 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

^ 2001 I think.

Thanks @Maynard Friedman
Any idea why it doesn't have hand warmer pockets?

[Alec Leamas]

On 5/16/2025 at 7:25 PM, 81FXR said:

Bit late to this but I bought some Effector directly from them, shipped to the UK.

It’s worth noting that (as I discovered) you’re not able to return them unless faulty!

 

This is good to know! I'm currently on the lookout for a new solid classic pair of specs and Effector's browline models are very, very, very nice

[81FXR]

11 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

This is good to know! I'm currently on the lookout for a new solid classic pair of specs and Effector's browline models are very, very, very nice

The quality is, as expected, very good too. On a par with Tart Japan and similar.

I only sold them on as they were a bit too wide for my face which I knew was a risk when I ordered. I guess we tend to find a brand that works for us and for me that’s Tart.

Friendly staff on the emails I had with them too.

Edited May 19 by 81FXR

[ColdsnapBryan]

Can anyone help and remind me if the Hinoya shop in Ueno Park Tokyo does tax free with a passport? Or if anyone knows a place that has a healthy amount of stock of Buzz Rickson near Ueno, Kamakura, Osaka as I'm planning on stocking up again on a lot of Buzz basics. Thanks!!

Also if anyone knows a denim repairer in that area, that would be great. I got some simple pocket stitching that needs to be repaired on a TCB.

[Geeman]

They did when I was there but that was 2018....

[Double 0 Soul]

What could be more worrying.. i've noticed a recent trend with Japanese retailers or bike parts to simply refuse to ship items when you select English language..

Unfortunately, we cannot ship *******  overseas.

Due to the weak yen, These products are more reasonable to buy from Japan.

However, from the perspective of overseas' ******* distributors, the retail price in Japan is so low that it is no longer fair to the overseas market.

 

Lets hope purveyors of fine denim goods don't develop such a strong moral compass 

[CSL]

I suppose this issue could be side stepped by ordering via a proxy like ZenMarket?

 

[Double 0 Soul]

You could.. but then you would have to pay 10% Jpn consumption tax + domestic shipping cost +20% VAT +duty +international shipping +£12 admin charges by the courier... i mean! what the hell! it's cheaper just to fly to Japan

[redragon]

13 hours ago, ColdsnapBryan said:

Can anyone help and remind me if the Hinoya shop in Ueno Park Tokyo does tax free with a passport? Or if anyone knows a place that has a healthy amount of stock of Buzz Rickson near Ueno, Kamakura, Osaka as I'm planning on stocking up again on a lot of Buzz basics. Thanks!!

Also if anyone knows a denim repairer in that area, that would be great. I got some simple pocket stitching that needs to be repaired on a TCB.

Hinoya still tax free.

Another place to check out is Junky Special but that is on the other side of the city (around Shinjuku)

[CSL]

13 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

You could.. but then you would have to pay 10% Jpn consumption tax + domestic shipping cost +20% VAT +duty +international shipping +£12 admin charges by the courier... i mean! what the hell! it's cheaper just to fly to Japan

Right. US tends to be slacker on the customs & tax end of things, but yes, Japanese sales tax and some surcharges from the proxy are there for sure.
The thing I've liked about it is being able to accumulate items from different stores & then having them mailed in one package.

[Alec Leamas]

11 hours ago, CSL said:

Right. US tends to be slacker on the customs & tax end of things, but yes, Japanese sales tax and some surcharges from the proxy are there for sure.
The thing I've liked about it is being able to accumulate items from different stores & then having them mailed in one package.

I also like this, I've ended up stacking bids across a few different bits and then have the luxury of time for them all to be shipped to that central person, then over to me in one.

It's hit and miss in my experience on import fees in the UK - DHL wildly varies as does Fedex, Parcel Force (who handle EMS here) ALWAYS charge unless it's marked down on the forms, but overall the proxy experience has been relatively good.

[Double 0 Soul]

EMS don't charter their own flights, they pay airlines to piggyback your goods in the spare cargo space of commercial flights.. therefore your items pass through the customs facility at Coventry (before they're collected by Parcelforce) which is fully automated, much like the drop box in Decathlon where you just clumsily dump an armful of items in the box and 3D scanners pick up the barcode / QR and weight.

If it detects a customs fee a sticker is applied.. everything passed through this machine, there is no way to avoid it... FedEx, DHL et al.. use their own customs facilities.. i've never had any luck avoiding their fees either, i'd assume in this day and age, if Decathlon run a 3D QR scan, FexEx would too.. but maybe it's a bit more like the mailroom from Elf

Edited May 23 by Double 0 Soul

[Alec Leamas]

1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

EMS don't charter their own flights, they pay airlines to piggyback your goods in the spare cargo space of commercial flights..

I did not know this! This is very interesting!

The whole automated process of inbound EMS customs stuff chimes well with my experience on charges.

[OutSider]

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

EMS don't charter their own flights, they pay airlines to piggyback your goods in the spare cargo space of commercial flights.. therefore your items pass through the customs facility at Coventry (before they're collected by Parcelforce) which is fully automated, much like the drop box in Decathlon where you just clumsily dump an armful of items in the box and 3D scanners pick up the barcode / QR and weight.

If it detects a customs fee a sticker is applied.. everything passed through this machine, there is no way to avoid it... FedEx, DHL et al.. use their own customs facilities.. i've never had any luck avoiding their fees either, i'd assume in this day and age, if Decathlon run a 3D QR scan, FexEx would too.. but maybe it's a bit more like the mailroom from Elf

EMS uses Canada post whenever I’ve shipped via them resulting in me owning no taxes or duties when I should have been.

 

[Double 0 Soul]

It depends on the customs facility rather than the carrier.. EMS don’t care if you’re charged or not, they’re only paid to courier the item from Jpn to the Canadian border.

[Talan]

Parcels from Japan to Ukraine are usually shipped via EMS. However, the process is a bit more complicated than for other countries. Typically, all shipments are flown to Poland. From there, they are transported by truck to Kyiv, and this part of the delivery is handled by the Ukrainian postal company, Ukrposhta. Upon arrival in Kyiv, the parcels are sent to customs, which clears them for further delivery and applies a duty if the declared value exceeds the set threshold (150 euros). The duty is paid at the local post office upon receiving the parcel. 

Delivery via DHL, etc. also happens occasionally, although very rarely. The route is roughly the same, but the overall delivery time is significantly shorter.

[81FXR]

Has anyone successfully had pleated pants altered by way of a slightly slimmer seat/thigh?

By slightly I mean slightly and not attempting to turn them into flat fronts.

I have three pairs of the excellent Spellbound French chino which fit absolutely perfect in the waist/leg other than being ever so slightly full in the top which says more about my skinny butt/legs than the pants themselves.

If it’s a simple job for a tailor then I might let them loose on them otherwise I’m happy enough with the fit to leave them as is.

 

[Duke Mantee]

2 hours ago, 81FXR said:

Has anyone successfully had pleated pants altered by way of a slightly slimmer seat/thigh?

By slightly I mean slightly and not attempting to turn them into flat fronts.

I have three pairs of the excellent Spellbound French chino which fit absolutely perfect in the waist/leg other than being ever so slightly full in the top which says more about my skinny butt/legs than the pants themselves.

If it’s a simple job for a tailor then I might let them loose on them otherwise I’m happy enough with the fit to leave them as is.

 

I’m assuming you are thinking about removing one of the pleats? A good tailor should be able to do this but it’s definitely not a simple job … belt loops and waistband need to be (partially) removed and it might even require opening up the side seam. 

Maybe it’s possible to dart the pleats? Or maybe have the seat adjusted? In any event if you have a tailor to go to then just ask what might be best.

 

Edited May 23 by Duke Mantee

[81FXR]

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

I’m assuming you are thinking about removing one of the pleats? A good tailor should be able to do this but it’s definitely not a simple job … belt loops and waistband need to be (partially) removed and it might even require opening up the side seam. 

Maybe it’s possible to dart the pleats? Or maybe have the seat adjusted? In any event if you have a tailor to go to then just ask what might be best.

 

Thanks! 
 

I’m not too knowledgable about adjustments really as I’ve only ever had hemming and tapering done. It sounds like darting a pleat might be feasible, it’s only a slight adjustment I’m looking for.

I’ll take them to a tailor and see how I get on.

[CSL]

Another potential issue to keep in mind is that you don't want to take width out to the point where the pleats are pulling. That's a bad look. And remember having your phone and wallet in the back pockets affects this too.

[81FXR]

Thanks yeah good call.

I might actually just leave it, they’re such nice pants and to be honest once they’ve had a few wears it’ll possibly settle a lot. It’s still a pretty stiff fabric.

Also making sure they’re worn high enough helps. I’m used to wearing high waisted but it seems more crucial to keep these at the right height for the right silhouette.

I’ll post some pics in them in WAYWT at some point.

 

[81FXR]

Posted a few pics of the above in the Chinos thread. Decided after a wash I’m happy with the fit as they are. 

 

[Le Clown Bleu]

anyone know where i can find 1890-1915 style denim? no belt loops

[nopal]

2 hours ago, Le Clown Bleu said:

anyone know where i can find 1890-1915 style denim? no belt loops

something like this?:

https://tcbjeans.stores.jp/items/6623211d6d07c1190e983359

[Le Clown Bleu]

2 minutes ago, nopal said:

something like this?:

https://tcbjeans.stores.jp/items/6623211d6d07c1190e983359

yes! sadly not in stock for my size