SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[mlwdp]

Noticed extra stitches around the pockets of one of my pairs of denim.  Would these be considered to be the “arches” of this pair or are they a different name?

 

[Double 0 Soul]

If it's yellow stitching.. they're the 'golden arches' 

I don't really know what you would call those.. it seems to be an odd repro quirk which made it's way into the Japanese repro psyche way back in the 90s.. the extended pocket stitch isn't apparent on vintage Levi's.

Are you confusing 'arches' with arcuates.. the back pocket stitch?

We had a bit of deliberation regarding those^ protruding stitches here..

 

Edited November 3, 2025 by Double 0 Soul

[OutSider]

If talking about the yellow stitches, it just looks like double stitching. 
Some brands even have triple stitching on different areas. Every brand has their own twist on little details like the stitching.

Arcs are generally in the middle of the pocket. They tend to be like seagull wings. 

Edited November 5, 2025 by OutSider

[jeash90]

Any recs for cotton sweaters (particularly crewneck)? I have this one from tender (https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-723-long-sleeve-raglan-pullover/?variation=19578) and have seen some from Mooncastle, but so many have wool. TIA!

[Lorcan]

22 minutes ago, jeash90 said:

Any recs for cotton sweaters (particularly crewneck)? I have this one from tender (https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-723-long-sleeve-raglan-pullover/?variation=19578) and have seen some from Mooncastle, but so many have wool. TIA!

The Tender one you have is very nice.

I like Andersen Andersen stuff, have one of their cotton boatneck tops and a wool knit. Not so many colour options with the cotton version of their crewneck sweater but at least they make one I guess https://andersen-andersen.com/collections/all/products/cotton-crewneck-royal-blue?color

[Well27]

Seconded, I also have the Andersen Andersen cotton crewneck sweater.

it is nice and not too warm. I sized up, from L to XL and I’m really happy with the fit.

[redragon]

any idea what caused the discoloration behind the leather patch?

[Double 0 Soul]

Probably just the tannins leaching through.. nothing to worry about

Edited November 9, 2025 by Double 0 Soul

[Lorcan]

Slash LF44 jacket and jeans I've have had staining from the patch. Never had an issue with it with anything else.

[tjsma]

On 11/6/2025 at 8:14 PM, jeash90 said:

Any recs for cotton sweaters (particularly crewneck)? I have this one from tender (https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-723-long-sleeve-raglan-pullover/?variation=19578) and have seen some from Mooncastle, but so many have wool. TIA!

I have a cotton ‘Plano’ jumper from Arpenteur that I really like. The autumn/winter versions are wool, but they do cotton ones for spring/summer.

[scooby]

Anyone know if Warehouse has produced any other garments using the same denim as the 1001 1901 No. 2 jeans? It's a 5.85 by 10 natural indigo denim

Thanks in advance

[JDelage]

I'm looking for a denim shirt with a button down collar, slightly dressier than the typical workshirts, which could be worn without (most of the time) or with (rarely) a tie. For now, it would seem that my best option might be this orSlow, but I am open to other suggestions. Thank you!

[indigoeagle]

15 minutes ago, JDelage said:

I'm looking for a denim shirt with a button down collar, slightly dressier than the typical workshirts, which could be worn without (most of the time) or with (rarely) a tie. For now, it would seem that my best option might be this orSlow, but I am open to other suggestions. Thank you!

The Orslow one is great, I think. A similar one is that from Beams plus.

[redragon]

“Higher end” options might be from 100hands: https://www.100hands.nl/collections/all/products/deep-structured-indigo-shirt

Been making a bang in the sartorial space not too long ago, looks very nice (pricewise also 😅)

[Geeman]

6 hours ago, JDelage said:

I'm looking for a denim shirt with a button down collar, slightly dressier than the typical workshirts, which could be worn without (most of the time) or with (rarely) a tie. For now, it would seem that my best option might be this orSlow, but I am open to other suggestions. Thank you!

Take a look at Kamakura 

https://kamakurashirts.com/collections/denim-chambray?srsltid=AfmBOoooFxTyEJW20TZPf-Zx7wUdXWvY-Z5x_j-rkQt0c-rpmK8v13rJ

 

[JDelage]

Took advantage of the promo at Independence-Chicago to get the orSlow shirt, so I'm good...

[okimoto]

Can anyone suggest specific makers for sweaters, particularly Fair Isles crewnecks or wool roll necks?

[yung_flynn]

36 minutes ago, okimoto said:

Can anyone suggest specific makers for sweaters, particularly Fair Isles crewnecks or wool roll necks?

Jamieson's, Bosie/Harley (especially the Blue Mogganer ones), O'Conell's (Laurence Odie made), and William Lockie all have good options. 

Bosie Knitwear – Bosie Knitwear ®

Sweaters | Men's and women's clothing

Jamieson’s of Shetland | END. (US)

Jamieson's – No Man Walks Alone

William Lockie - Premium Knitwear from Scotland since 1874 | Baltzar

Carraig Donn and Gaeltarra are good options for Aran sweaters, especially secondhand.

Edited December 2, 2025 by yung_flynn

[okimoto]

56 minutes ago, yung_flynn said:

Jamieson's, Bosie/Harley (especially the Blue Mogganer ones), O'Conell's (Laurence Odie made), and William Lockie all have good options. 

Bosie Knitwear – Bosie Knitwear ®

Sweaters | Men's and women's clothing

Jamieson’s of Shetland | END. (US)

Jamieson's – No Man Walks Alone

William Lockie - Premium Knitwear from Scotland since 1874 | Baltzar

Carraig Donn and Gaeltarra are good options for Aran sweaters, especially secondhand.

Incredible list, thank you so much

[Double 0 Soul]

We used to have a knitwear list / thread over on DB

If you do some deep nerding.. you can find makers / knitters / crofters who actually live and work on the islands.. they respond to emails and you can have something knitted especially for you, in a design / colour of your choosing.. it takes a while but it's worth it.. that's what i did here with these wristers / mitts from Elizebeth Rideford on Fairisle

I've been wearing them every winter for 10yrs now and they still look mint!

Re- vintage.. Dale of Norway is a good shout, i bought this around 12yrs ago.. it's heavy af and amazing quality for the £45 i paid, it was worn once, after 5yrs of wear, i washed it... it turned tha bath water a deep shade of green and left a green tidemark around the white bath that i couldn't get rid of

Excuse the Yazoo hair, i cut it myself

[yung_flynn]

57 minutes ago, okimoto said:

Incredible list, thank you so much

There are some great vintage options too, even from brands that have since declined - Alan Paine, Pringle, McGeorge, Lockie, Lord Jeff. I look for made in England, made in Scotland, made in USA, and/or made with Shetland wool for those.

Inis Meain has some great stuff too, but they are expensive.

[Lorcan]

Maybe worth bearing in mind different stockists for some of the Shetland brands sometimes spec different lengths - so for example Jamieson's for Clutch Cafe are shorter in the body (which I like) vs the stuff on Jamieson's own web store or at No Man Walks Alone. Worth checking around.

[Double 0 Soul]

I always fancied one of these fisherman’s ganseys from https://www.flamboroughmanor.co.uk

they’re hand knitted from a single length of wool.. but because they’re a trad pattern they’re massively long in the body to keep you warm out in the North Sea..

I had thoughts of calling in and giving them my sizes and asking them to make me a shorter cut.

[Lorcan]

50 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I always fancied one of these fisherman’s ganseys from https://www.flamboroughmanor.co.uk

they’re hand knitted from a single length of wool.. but because they’re a trad pattern they’re massively long in the body to keep you warm out in the North Sea..

I had thoughts of calling in and giving them my sizes and asking them to make me a shorter cut.

Same! Have been through the same thought process... they do say on the sizing info page you can request different lengths.

[Double 0 Soul]

The length here of this Victorian fellow taken from their site looks perfect

All the current offerings (albeit trad patterns) look way too long in the body for my tastes..

When my kid was little, i used to take him to Danes Dyke catching crabs so i was within a stones throw of the gansey shop.. alas, after crab catching, he'd want to go get fish n' chips at north landing.. the last thing he waned to do was go look a jumpers for an hour so we never made it

[julian-wolf]

Should be easy enough to get it soaking wet and re-block it to more or less whatever length you want, no? There’s quite a bit of freedom in reshaping this sort of wool knit

Edited December 2, 2025 by julian-wolf

[Double 0 Soul]

Hmm.. maybe, i'd possibly want it 6" shorter.. being wool with some carfull localised cleaning, you never really have to wash it / get it soaking.. even in the pissing down rain they just tighten up a little then give with wear..

The shop is less than 2hrs away for me so i was more inclined to get it fitted and never wash.. the only reason i washed the Dale is because i'd been sat around a campfire all weekend and couldn't get the smell of smoke out of it.

[ATWM]

This is a great list. I will second Inis Meain, they have become my favorite knitwear maker over the years. It’s partially because their size medium usually just hits perfect for me while others tend to be all over the place. Fit is king and I have found them to be quite consistent. They are pricey but then I’ve got a few pieces from them (mostly linen but 2 wool ones) and the most I’ve paid was maybe 60% retail. Still a lot, but worth it to my mind. 

[yung_flynn]

17 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I always fancied one of these fisherman’s ganseys from https://www.flamboroughmanor.co.uk

they’re hand knitted from a single length of wool.. but because they’re a trad pattern they’re massively long in the body to keep you warm out in the North Sea..

I had thoughts of calling in and giving them my sizes and asking them to make me a shorter cut.

Bosie also offers some ganseys, but they're a little long as well. 

Blue Mogganer Ganjey Heritage British Breed Gansey Sweater - Yew Navy – Bosie Knitwear ®

[Double 0 Soul]

I think the difference will be.. these^ will be knitted on a machine in sections (neck, body, arms and cuffs) then stitched together, Highland 2000 do something similar..

For £150, once you’ve taken away the cost of the wool, you’d be left with a couple of hours at minimum wage to knit a sweater.. that ain’t going to happen by hand.

The trad Gansey are one thread knitted together with 5 large metal needles.. not many folks have the skills / ability to pull them off, they take days, if not weeks to knit hence the £500+ price tag.

Edited December 3, 2025 by Double 0 Soul